h&s lpfp

bigrpowr · Jun 19, 2017

Six_Sloww said:
Did it notify you on the dash?

Mines been so hot it started melting the little rubber rings on my brass push loc fittings.

Even with my recent issues I've never gotten a wrench notification or anything... maybe it's that XL life lol

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no , nothing at all. i swapped the pump , for basically no reason. that was with stock pump.

dsmracing1 · Jun 20, 2017

Six_Sloww said:
Free download for laptop and 20 dollar Bluetooth dongle, can't go wrong

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You betcha, got the OBD Bluetooth adapter and a splitter tonight. That way I'll keep the mini maxx on a higher tune and catch it in the act to make sure. Spend $50 now to diagnose and $1700 Canadian with exchange rate for that sweet sweet H&S setup as soon as I can to reduce any change of damage. Driving the Honda for now lol.

HS-MotorsportsDallas · Jun 20, 2017

dsmracing1 said:
Thanks for the info! I have gotten a code for low rail pressure (P0087), large fuel leak (P0093) and P228F fuel regulator valve. I have changed the valve and have never had the P228F code come back. I can only get the other two to trigger now. I believe like you mentioned, the LPFP is probably getting weak from constantly trying to run the dual fuel setup for sure. I need to look into this for scan app for sure however...

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I know you already did but, for anyone else reading, make sure your PCV (pressure control valve) on the back of the driver's side rail is in good working order. They tend to load up with tiny pieces of debris inevitably shed by the CP4 and get stuck partially open which creates a lot of heat by allowing fuel to bypass it when it shouldn't and forcing the pumps to work double time to keep up. It's also the reason for the "large fuel leak" code. Everyone things it's an external leak when it throws this code but 99.9999999999999999999999% of the time this code pops up, it's because of that regulator.

I replace the PCV on every truck I do a dual fueler on since I'm there anyway and that way I know it's fresh. I've yet to see hot fuel temps in anything I've dealt with, including my own truck.

dsmracing1 · Jun 20, 2017

h&s lpfp

HS-MotorsportsDallas said:
I know you already did but, for anyone else reading, make sure your PCV (pressure control valve) on the back of the driver's side rail is in good working order. They tend to load up with tiny pieces of debris inevitably shed by the CP4 and get stuck partially open which creates a lot of heat by allowing fuel to bypass it when it shouldn't and forcing the pumps to work double time to keep up. It's also the reason for the "large fuel leak" code. Everyone things it's an external leak when it throws this code but 99.9999999999999999999999% of the time this code pops up, it's because of that regulator.

I replace the PCV on every truck I do a dual fueler on since I'm there anyway and that way I know it's fresh. I've yet to see hot fuel temps in anything I've dealt with, including my own truck.

Really Appreciate the feedback on this Dallas! I 100% agree as my pickup screen on the PCV did have very fine fragments from break in. As you stated, this more than likely caused the original issue of the low fuel pressure at an idle and when running down the road.

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Six_Sloww · Jun 20, 2017

Thanks for that Dallas, that actually explains a lot of the issues I had last year.

Now to get to the bottom of this year's issues... lol

WhiteMamba_Scorpion · Jun 20, 2017

Tad off topic but anyone has a Baldwin filter number that fits the pump for the water separator?

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HS-MotorsportsDallas · Jun 20, 2017

Are you looking for any alternative or just a Baldwin replacement?

WhiteMamba_Scorpion · Jun 20, 2017

HS-MotorsportsDallas said:
Are you looking for any alternative or just a Baldwin replacement?

I've been running a fleet guard water seperator. Not sure what's the best filter brand when it comes to fuel. So yeah I'm open to anything you recommend.

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Six_Sloww · Jun 20, 2017

WhiteMamba_Scorpion said:
I've been running a fleet guard water seperator. Not sure what's the best filter brand when it comes to fuel. So yeah I'm open to anything you recommend.

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You have to look for the specs on the filter, key is the absolute filtration rating and I've found fleetguard typically comes out on top in the applications I've searched for.

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lincolnlocker · Jun 20, 2017

HS-MotorsportsDallas said:
I know you already did but, for anyone else reading, make sure your PCV (pressure control valve) on the back of the driver's side rail is in good working order. They tend to load up with tiny pieces of debris inevitably shed by the CP4 and get stuck partially open which creates a lot of heat by allowing fuel to bypass it when it shouldn't and forcing the pumps to work double time to keep up. It's also the reason for the "large fuel leak" code. Everyone things it's an external leak when it throws this code but 99.9999999999999999999999% of the time this code pops up, it's because of that regulator.

I replace the PCV on every truck I do a dual fueler on since I'm there anyway and that way I know it's fresh. I've yet to see hot fuel temps in anything I've dealt with, including my own truck.

how hard is that to get to and check? i have killed my truck twice from rail dropping pressure and its only in a early edition p i p performance tune and not the extreme even. wasnt sure if my lpfp was slowly going out as it is a faint bit louder than it used to be.. but it has been like that for a while now..

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Six_Sloww · Jun 20, 2017

lincolnlocker said:
how hard is that to get to and check? i have killed my truck twice from rail dropping pressure and its only in a early edition p i p performance tune and not the extreme even. wasnt sure if my lpfp was slowly going out as it is a faint bit louder than it used to be.. but it has been like that for a while now..

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Little bit of a pain to get to. Pull the drivers side wheel liner, it's the valve on the back of the drivers side rail.

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lincolnlocker · Jun 20, 2017

Six_Sloww said:
Little bit of a pain to get to. Pull the drivers side wheel liner, it's the valve on the back of the drivers side rail.

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ok. thanks man.. can you pull it out to check for debris and put it back in or is it a one time thing and just replace it while your there already?

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Six_Sloww · Jun 20, 2017

Dunno. I pulled mine out and it was covered in metal shavings so it got replaced lol

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lincolnlocker · Jun 20, 2017

Six_Sloww said:
Dunno. I pulled mine out and it was covered in metal shavings so it got replaced lol

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well, that's a given.. lol

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HS-MotorsportsDallas · Jun 21, 2017

I usually just replace them while I'm in there. It's almost not worth the hassle of pulling one to just put it back in. They're about $150 from the dealership.

dsmracing1 · Jun 21, 2017

HS-MotorsportsDallas said:
I usually just replace them while I'm in there. It's almost not worth the hassle of pulling one to just put it back in. They're about $150 from the dealership.

Damn, the PCV is $280 in Canada haha

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lincolnlocker · Jun 25, 2017

HS-MotorsportsDallas said:
I usually just replace them while I'm in there. It's almost not worth the hassle of pulling one to just put it back in. They're about $150 from the dealership.

i hear ya. thanks for the info Dallas!

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