Radiator choices

ruffneck7.3

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I'm sure this has been beat to death, but my search didn't really turn up much for my question..

Which is, is there an aftermarket radiator worth going to? I'm gonna have to replace mine soon because of damage in the center, I'm not having any issues with overheating
, just wondering if there is actually one worth upgrading to is all.. I would prefer an all aluminum unit, but if none are worth the price, stocker is fine for me..
 

CJunkie

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Mishimoto is kinda spendy, but a lot of the cheap units have issues with pinholes.

Sent from my LM-V350 using Tapatalk
 

Iso-baric

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I hate most Mishimoto products, but their radiator was worth every penny.

Prices have come down considerably in the past few years, and $400 seems reasonable for all aluminum with a lifetime warranty.
 

Lt.Dan

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Mishimoto is kind of the only name brand who makes one for us, but I too do not like them as a company. I cannot speak for the quality of the 7.3 radiator itself though.
 

KBMKVIII

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I have had the Mishimoto on mine for maybe 5 years now.
Still looks and works like new.
Had to replace the oring in the drain but that was bc it dried up from sitting dry for two years.
I got a deal on mine back then and the prices are even lower now.
I would buy again
 

ruffneck7.3

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Thanks for all the responses! Is the $400 radiator for super duty or obs trucks? I have an 01..
 

ruffneck7.3

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Ok, that's what I thought.. I'll have to think about it, because like I said, I don't really have cooling issues right now, other than my 203 thermostat is a little too warm on 90° days with the ac on lol.. I think I'll switch to a 180 thermostat during the hot summer, and keep the 203 the rest of the year..

Thanks for the response!
 

Lt.Dan

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I've run the 203, 195, and now a 180*, and I gotta say, my heater is still PLENTY hot enough for 30* days. I wouldnt waste your time swapping out thermostats twice a year.
 

ruffneck7.3

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The reason I want the 203 is because if I take it to north Dakota, which is where I work, it often gets to -30 lol.. and right now I have a thermostat housing I can't get off, so it will help prevent that from happening again.. at least that's how my little brain works lol
 

lincolnlocker

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The reason I want the 203 is because if I take it to north Dakota, which is where I work, it often gets to -30 lol.. and right now I have a thermostat housing I can't get off, so it will help prevent that from happening again.. at least that's how my little brain works lol
Just put a couple ball valves in your heater core lines to shut the flow off during the summer and run whatever thermostat you want for winter purposes. I had that in my dually forever. Put them in a couple log trucks also. Ice cold AC.

live life full throttle
 

KBMKVIII

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Just put a couple ball valves in your heater core lines to shut the flow off during the summer and run whatever thermostat you want for winter purposes. I had that in my dually forever. Put them in a couple log trucks also. Ice cold AC.

live life full throttle


Fun fact, Jake is typing from the ****ter currently
 
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Just put a couple ball valves in your heater core lines to shut the flow off during the summer and run whatever thermostat you want for winter purposes. I had that in my dually forever. Put them in a couple log trucks also. Ice cold AC.

live life full throttle

What brand shut off valves do you use? I’ve read sometime quality can be An issue with valves.
 

ruffneck7.3

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I don't have an issue with the ac not being cold from coolant temp, more of the fan runs a lot more often than I would like it to, or did before I went to the 203 lol..

I think I'll do the ball valves though, that's a good idea for the summer..I run good coolant, delo/cat elc, so I'm not super worried about corrosion, but I agree, almost any brass ball valve should give you a long time of corrosion free use.. one trick if you use a ball valve, use red loctite on the nut that holds the handle on, otherwise you'll go to use it and the handle will have rattled off
 

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