Won’t even crank, just clicks?

Corys6.0

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Got the truck in the garage today, changed out the heater block cord. Heated the garage up super hot. Went to start it and it cranked over a few times and now it just clicks. I have 4 brand new batteries in the garage we tried them all, nothing. The starter is 1 year old, maybe I killed the starter the past 2 days. I find that hard to believe but anything is possible. Any ideas guys. Not plugging my truck in one cold night due to the cord being broke has turned into a 3 day fiasco.
 

Corys6.0

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I would look at the cables going to the starter.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

I can do that,It’s acted like it has dead batteries. When they’re brand new, it would crank over maybe 2-3 times before it would die out. Now it just clicks.
 

sootie

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use jumper cables and get power from a known good battery, right to the lug on the starter. If just the solenoid still clicks, i bet the starters fried.
 

Dave_Nevada

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First things first.

Look at replacing the start relay. If you've fried the contacts inside the relay, what you are describing (clicking) is exactly what will happen. This is easy to see in a GM wherein you can disassemble the starter solenoid and flip the contacts.

Anyway, the solenoid coil is working, but the contacts sound burned. Easy and cheap to replace FIRST. You need current to drive the starter and it's simply not getting there. I've shorted the two lugs with a hefty screwdriver to see if the starter would run. If it doesn't, and the batteries are good, it's the starter. It's hard to say without being there, but that's how I'd approach it. Starters and solenoids don't really have much of a load on them until you try to crank that sucker in really cold weather.

Then Molly bar the door.
 
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Corys6.0

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First things first.

Look at replacing the start relay. If you've fried the contacts inside the relay, what you are describing (clicking) is exactly what will happen. This is easy to see in a GM wherein you can disassemble the starter solenoid and flip the contacts.

Anyway, the solenoid coil is working, but the contacts sound burned. Easy and cheap to replace FIRST. You need current to drive the starter and it's simply not getting there. I've shorted the two lugs with a hefty screwdriver to see if the starter would run. If it doesn't, and the batteries are good, it's the starter. It's hard to say without being there, but that's how I'd approach it. Starters and solenoids don't really have much of a load on them until you try to crank that sucker in really cold weather.

Then Molly bar the door.

It will click one time and that’s it? Where is the starter relay? Next question is does the starter solenoid come with a new starter?
 

Corys6.0

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use jumper cables and get power from a known good battery, right to the lug on the starter. If just the solenoid still clicks, i bet the starters fried.

Thanks buddy we will try that first thing in the morning, I just wanna get as much advice as I can do we can cover all corners and get this thing back on the road tomorow.
 

6.0 Tech

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First things first.

Look at replacing the start relay. If you've fried the contacts inside the relay, what you are describing (clicking) is exactly what will happen. This is easy to see in a GM wherein you can disassemble the starter solenoid and flip the contacts.

Anyway, the solenoid coil is working, but the contacts sound burned. Easy and cheap to replace FIRST. You need current to drive the starter and it's simply not getting there. I've shorted the two lugs with a hefty screwdriver to see if the starter would run. If it doesn't, and the batteries are good, it's the starter. It's hard to say without being there, but that's how I'd approach it. Starters and solenoids don't really have much of a load on them until you try to crank that sucker in really cold weather.

Then Molly bar the door.

No starter relay on a 6.0...
 

Dave_Nevada

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That’s good to know lol, I would have been looking forever. Thanks.

Sorry, about that. I was plain old wrong on that. I had my head in the OLD AS DIRT gasser Ford section of my mind. scary. :morons: :morons: :morons: :morons:

7.3 and 6.0 have piggyback starter solenoids, as well as my old 68 M35A2.

I'd pull the starter, and the same idea applies- thick bladed screwdriver across the main lugs to check the starter spin capability. Same way you check an old Chevy 350. Inside the solenoid there's a switch contact (behind the main lugs). That HD switch contact goes away after time. Tear any solenoid apart to see its inner workings.
 
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co04cobra

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They went away from the fender mounted solenoid in 02. So some 7.3s have it some not.
 

Dave_Nevada

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They all have a starter relay/solenoid, regardless of what it's on.

Earlier (01 and back) 7.3 setups have an additional starter relay mount on the passenger fender, but it too feeds another starter relay that rides within the solenoid switch. In 02, they moved the starter relay from the fender to the fuse box.

Nonetheless, all starters regardless of what it's on has a relay switch. Like GM stuff, the solenoid and starter switch are integrated. THAT solenoid in fact, is a relay switch inside just behind the lugs.

Even 7.3 and 6.0 Diesels have the starter switch integrated within the solenoid. It's less troubleshooting for a 6.0 to determine a bad switch than a 7.3 for this reason.
 

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