Audio Build

semperfidooordie

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I am wanting to build an audio system for my truck. I like the idea of an iPad in the dash but am open to a good DVD and nav head unit as well. I also want to run sub(s) and have the ability to shut them off or turn them down for when my son is in the the truck. I plan on soundproofing and upgrading the door speakers as well. I don't have a ton of knowledge about this so I am learning as I go. Any input and advice is awesome!
 

Will@Rudy'sDiesel

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I just had two JL 13" Shallow mounts, and a 1,000 watt mono block amp installed in my truck and it is very clear. I had them install a knob for the amp also that way if I don't want a lot of bass then you just have to roll the knob back.
 

Will@Rudy'sDiesel

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This is box it is hard to tell what it looks like. It's a custom built box that runs all the way across the back of the cab.

IMG_1958.jpg

This is where they mounted the amp underneath the rear drivers side seat.

IMG_1959.jpg

Here is the knob, it is very clean looking and if you didn't know what you were looking for you would never see it.

IMG_1960.jpg
 

jdc753

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For the subs on/off there are many routes...

What will posted is a "bass knob" that most mono block amplifiers will come with. What this does is a function of the gain, 100% on the bass knob yeilds 100% of what the gain on the amplifier is set at, then 50% on the bass knob yeild 50% of what the gain is set at and 0% obviously zero percent of the gain aka nothing.

Many headunits will also have a subwoofer control where you can change the level (same as the bass knob) or switch the subwoofer channel on/off.

Then finally you could install a switch inline with the turn on lead for the subwoofer amplifier and flip the switch on/off to control if the amplifier turns on or not. I've done this in setups with cheaper gear that don't have the bass knob or subwoofer controls on the HU.

I personally like the ipad in the dash idea because I like having ALL the control and expandability, plus bigger screen. However many HU's will have pretty much as many features so the Ipod route, just smaller screen, but FAR less work to install.

I think I would go with something like this if I didn't want to do all the extra work involved with the Ipad, http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113DNN991H/Kenwood-Excelon-DNN991HD.html?tp=20212


There are a couple of threads on here for the sound proofing work, but best bang for the buck (not cheapest) is the RAAM Audio BXT II, www.raamaudio.com then throw a layer of ensolite over it as an air barrier and you will be in great shape.
 

semperfidooordie

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Thanks for the link and the info. I listen to a variety of music but not a ton of rap so crazy loud isn't my goal...I want quality sound. I have no brand loyalty or anything like that. I want something that is easily concealable and doesn't say hey smash my window and take this
 

semperfidooordie

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Oh okay. Never been in or around a newer truck that's pretty neat. Does anyone want to help me setup a system for my truck?
 
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semperfidooordie

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I have found the sub for me after poring over reviews and looking like the best shallow mount I can find I think I will be going with a BM MkIV by Stereo Integrity depending on shipping costs. My backup is a JL TW series but haven't decided which since my local car audio place has them.
 

semperfidooordie

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Does anyone have info on about how much deadner would be needed for a crew cab? I want to use raam mat and want to order once and not have tons left over. Also does the ensolite go over the BXT II? Never done deadner myself before
 

jdc753

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I have found the sub for me after poring over reviews and looking like the best shallow mount I can find I think I will be going with a BM MkIV by Stereo Integrity depending on shipping costs. My backup is a JL TW series but haven't decided which since my local car audio place has them.

You can't go wrong with either of those, the top 2 subs in the shallow game. Sadly my MKiv has been sitting in its box at home for at least 2 months now /doh


Does anyone have info on about how much deadner would be needed for a crew cab? I want to use raam mat and want to order once and not have tons left over. Also does the ensolite go over the BXT II? Never done deadner myself before

Ensolite goes over the BXT. Clean the metal with windex or an alcohol type cleaner then start laying the mat making sure to roll or press it down into the metal. I like a roller and the back of a craftsman screw driver (rounded end) to work the metal and make it conform to the truck. Then lay down your ensolite.


I wish I knew and exact size but I believe 100SF is what is in my head to do an entire truck. 50SF should get the floor completely covered and the back wall. Doors the main goal is the outside skin, but nice to completely do both outside skin and inner too.
 

semperfidooordie

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You can't go wrong with either of those, the top 2 subs in the shallow game. Sadly my MKiv has been sitting in its box at home for at least 2 months now /doh




Ensolite goes over the BXT. Clean the metal with windex or an alcohol type cleaner then start laying the mat making sure to roll or press it down into the metal. I like a roller and the back of a craftsman screw driver (rounded end) to work the metal and make it conform to the truck. Then lay down your ensolite.


I wish I knew and exact size but I believe 100SF is what is in my head to do an entire truck. 50SF should get the floor completely covered and the back wall. Doors the main goal is the outside skin, but nice to completely do both outside skin and inner too.

Thank you! I am pretty excited but living in Alaska is going to probably to make shipping for that MkIV killer but we will see. I'm really excited either way...what sort of amp should I look at? Not entirely new to the audio game but never set it up myself or installed it myself before. I'm fairly mechanically inclined at least that's my job haha. But haven't messed with stereo installs but I imagine it can't be too difficult but amp setup and selection is totally foreign to me. I may start with doors and back wall..not sure about pulling the interior and how difficult that may be...but I work rotational work so I have 5 days to get the truck pulled apart...apply deadner and reassemble.
 

05wh250

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I did the doors outer shell, back wall and the roof at first. I eventually went back and did the inner door skin covering everything I could. Also if your going to use round speakers and build your own adapters, use some .25 inch thick plastic as I just filled in around them with some deadened sheet metal, ended up chasing a rattle for a couple months. Can't remember how much deadener I used but I ordered 2 kits and have a good bit of the deadener left but had just enough ensolite left to cover the floor of a mustangs trunk.
 

jdc753

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Thank you! I am pretty excited but living in Alaska is going to probably to make shipping for that MkIV killer but we will see. I'm really excited either way...what sort of amp should I look at? Not entirely new to the audio game but never set it up myself or installed it myself before. I'm fairly mechanically inclined at least that's my job haha. But haven't messed with stereo installs but I imagine it can't be too difficult but amp setup and selection is totally foreign to me. I may start with doors and back wall..not sure about pulling the interior and how difficult that may be...but I work rotational work so I have 5 days to get the truck pulled apart...apply deadner and reassemble.


For an amplifier you are looking for something around 4-500w @ 2ohm

Something like this Sundown Audio SAE-1000D, http://www.woofersetc.com/p-12417-s...lock-1000w-rms-digital-class-d-amplifier.aspx

Also Sundown Audio is sorta like a sister company to Stereo Integrity, can most likely pick up Sundown amps used on caraudio.com or Diyma for cheap.

From there installation is pretty straight forward, wiring it is the trickiest part but not complicated. Sonicelectronix.com has great selection of wiring kits and components, or www.knukonceptz.com.


For deadener it all depends on much you want to put in, you can bury a full bulk pack (36 ft^2) into a single door, but that is pretty much maxed out, 20sq per door is probably a decent round number to get you both inside and outside skin., then if you do floor is about 35ft^2 (5'x7') in a crew cab.


Pulling the interior really isn't that bad, a buddy and myself did my floor including ensolite in about 3 hrs start to finish and we didn't rush. 2 people can strip and fully deaden then reinstall within a long day as a shade tree mechanic/beer drinking work, or bust your ass and get it done in 7-8hrs.


and I fully second what 05wh250 says on the round speakers in the doors with some 0.25" HDPE plastic (cheap cutting boards) make up some adapters and cover them in deadener. Also if you want to go crazy make up some panels to seal up the big access openings in the doors to really boost the speakers performance.
 

bigbrdf250

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What's a better buy for the money and performance?
Referring to shallow mounts.
Jl
SI
Others
These would go behind the seat
 

KTM300

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and I fully second what 05wh250 says on the round speakers in the doors with some 0.25" HDPE plastic (cheap cutting boards) make up some adapters and cover them in deadener. Also if you want to go crazy make up some panels to seal up the big access openings in the doors to really boost the speakers performance.

What is the best way to deaden around a door speaker that has a HDPE adapter? Deaden around the hole and bolt the adapter on top of it? Then lay another layer of deadener on top and up onto the adapter? Or somehow wrap the adapter with deadener?
 

jdc753

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What's a better buy for the money and performance?
Referring to shallow mounts.
Jl
SI
Others
These would go behind the seat

Honestly a tough call, I would like to give the nod to the SI sub, but I have yet to listen to mine. I like supporting the smaller company and I like the specs and design of the SI, but the JL is a rock solid performer and really can't knock it. Comes down to pricing and availability.

What is the best way to deaden around a door speaker that has a HDPE adapter? Deaden around the hole and bolt the adapter on top of it? Then lay another layer of deadener on top and up onto the adapter? Or somehow wrap the adapter with deadener?

I would go with your first thought, bolt the adapter down over a layer of deadener and then seal over. Many guys also use non hardening modelling clay around the speaker to create a final seal, but that is up to you if you wish to go that far.

Some examples,
https://www.google.com/search?q=non...-proper-door-sound-deadening-you.html;800;600
 

KTM300

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I would go with your first thought, bolt the adapter down over a layer of deadener and then seal over. Many guys also use non hardening modelling clay around the speaker to create a final seal, but that is up to you if you wish to go that far.

Some examples,
https://www.google.com/search?q=non...-proper-door-sound-deadening-you.html;800;600

Should I lay the Raammat and Ensolite both down before installing the adapter? What exactly do you mean by "then seal over?" I keep thinking I need foam in-between the door and adapter, and in-between the adapter and speaker to have an air tight seal. Maybe a bead of silicone would work better or maybe I am over thinking sealing the speaker to the door.
 

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