rpm issue

lincolnlocker · Aug 28, 2014

Chvyrkr said:
Cam key. Keeps the cam in line with the gear.

Ahh 10-4.. hard to see on my phone..

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Chvyrkr · Aug 28, 2014

The item list was way to long to include in the screen shot.

lincolnlocker · Aug 28, 2014

Chvyrkr said:
Did it hydro lock when the gaskets blew?

hell if I know.. runnin a buck twenty down the road and it hiccuped and blew... I thought I windowed the block but then realized there was no banging and clanging around..

Chvyrkr said:
The item list was way to long to include in the screen shot.

I hear ya...

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Chvyrkr · Aug 28, 2014

Did it shut down on it's own?

lincolnlocker · Aug 28, 2014

Chvyrkr said:
Did it shut down on it's own?

nope.. coasted a half mile to turn a corner then I turned the key off... then when I figured out what happened I started it and backed it up around the corner so my brother could tow me back to the farm.

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pontiacross · Aug 28, 2014

well that sucks but at least you know what is going on now.

maybe time for an aftermarket cam

lincolnlocker · Aug 28, 2014

pontiacross said:
well that sucks but at least you know what is going on now.

maybe time for an aftermarket cam

yes it did and yes it is!

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NyCowboy87 · Aug 28, 2014

Chvyrkr said:
And it's entirely possible that the thrust plate (item 2) is worn, allowing end play. Can't say I've ever heard of anyone finding one worn, though I'm sure it's happened.

Happened to me years ago, I forget how exactly much end play I had but it was scary how much was there.

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powerstrokenstang · Aug 28, 2014

Soooo maybe ill check end play tomo. Mine sounds alot like a timing issue. Only thing it ive tried every where from .060 to .015 clearance on cps and still acts the same

jeremiahmercier · Aug 28, 2014

I tried searching, so hope I'm not asking what's already posted somewhere... To check clearance, are you just using a depth gauge and sticking into cps hole, and if so, I assume your butting up to cam and measuring to where? Outside of cps hole I presume? Also, what clearance is optimal? I presume to check for walk, just rotate engine and check every so many degrees. What specifically are y'all shiming with, (I saw where somebody ground off some)... I always thought mine sounded funny At higher rpms, it'll spin em, but it just doesn't sound smooth

jeremiahmercier · Aug 28, 2014

I should be a little more clear, when I originally bought the truck (96) a few years ago, it would stumble pretty hard when coming to a stop, and act like it was goin to quit, also threw cps codes, but ran very smooth across all rpms, especially high rpms... Uneducated at the time, I bought the updated one, it immediately fixed the stumble coming to a stop and cps code, so I chunked the original one. Soon after I started noticing the higher rpm roughness, I have been told by several that a black cps would fix this, but of coarse, can't find em. I also get random cct codes when running cct, it'll go successfully several times, and others it'll fail random cylinders, that and the higher rpm roughness didn't start till took old original cps out. Trade off I guess,

lincolnlocker · Aug 29, 2014

jeremiahmercier said:
I should be a little more clear, when I originally bought the truck (96) a few years ago, it would stumble pretty hard when coming to a stop, and act like it was goin to quit, also threw cps codes, but ran very smooth across all rpms, especially high rpms... Uneducated at the time, I bought the updated one, it immediately fixed the stumble coming to a stop and cps code, so I chunked the original one. Soon after I started noticing the higher rpm roughness, I have been told by several that a black cps would fix this, but of coarse, can't find em. I also get random cct codes when running cct, it'll go successfully several times, and others it'll fail random cylinders, that and the higher rpm roughness didn't start till took old original cps out. Trade off I guess,

yep. its a trade off.. but you are correct on the measuring end play but you need to rotate the engine a full revolution each way..

so as of now its a crap shoot... depending on what im doing, it will pop a cps code anywhere from 3500 to 4300 rpm but I cant duplicate it so assuming endplay isnt consistent Im gonna gernade it one of these times.. but dam, for what it is, it makes a lot of power up top...

live life full throttle

lincolnlocker · Aug 29, 2014

is it even remotely possible to change the cam without pulling the heads to get to the lifters?

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jeremiahmercier · Aug 29, 2014

lincolnlocker said:
yep. its a trade off.. but you are correct on the measuring end play but you need to rotate the engine a full revolution each way..

so as of now its a crap shoot... depending on what im doing, it will pop a cps code anywhere from 3500 to 4300 rpm but I cant duplicate it so assuming endplay isnt consistent Im gonna gernade it one of these times.. but dam, for what it is, it makes a lot of power up top...

live life full throttle

Thanks for clearing that up...

What cam are you thinking of trying? Dyno proven or gearhead?

lincolnlocker · Aug 29, 2014

jeremiahmercier said:
Thanks for clearing that up...

What cam are you thinking of trying? Dyno proven or gearhead?

no idea yet. if I go to big then I have to do fly cut pistons and im not sure I wanna mess up the balanced rotating assembly unless I gernade it before that happens..

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jeremiahmercier · Aug 29, 2014

Looking for streetability/towing? Or race/pulling? Just curious, not trying to pry. I've givin the gearhead street one a thought, but will probably be a while

jeremiahmercier · Aug 29, 2014

Plus dynoproven is a couple hours away, so I would also consider them

lincolnlocker · Aug 29, 2014

jeremiahmercier said:
Looking for streetability/towing? Or race/pulling? Just curious, not trying to pry. I've givin the gearhead street one a thought, but will probably be a while

thats the main problem, I am limited to the charger I am running now so I really can't go to much bigger but this is now my pulling truck and thats about all ill be doing with it unless im driving it to cure headgaskets as I am now... but either way even the better then stock cams will help over stock... if I do end up gernading this motor then ill go stage two atleast and get new pistons done.

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Chvyrkr · Aug 29, 2014

lincolnlocker said:
is it even remotely possible to change the cam without pulling the heads to get to the lifters?

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Yeah, though I dunno what the consensus on it is.

I swapped cams in one of the engines in my 02 without pulling the heads.

Remove the rocker arms and pushrods, oil pan, front cover, and roll it over upside-down. The lifters sit against the retainers and clear the cam. Depending on how many miles those bearings and cam have been wearing together though, I might just stick with the cam you have. Replace the thrust plate, reweld the gear, and roll with it.

lincolnlocker · Aug 29, 2014

Chvyrkr said:
Yeah, though I dunno what the consensus on it is.

I swapped cams in one of the engines in my 02 without pulling the heads.

Remove the rocker arms and pushrods, oil pan, front cover, and roll it over upside-down. The lifters sit against the retainers and clear the cam. Depending on how many miles those bearings and cam have been wearing together though, I might just stick with the cam you have. Replace the thrust plate, reweld the gear, and roll with it.

that sounds like a way easier better plan. oh and only 7k ish miles maybe closer to 8k now on the rebuild/bearings....

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