Obs Ford rear door issues

nlewman

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Hey all. On Saturday I drove over to Louisiana to pick up a truck. 1997 crew cab xlt. Truck runs great. Completely stock. However, I have a few issues. Neither the locks nor the windows in the rear doors work. I've checked the switches and I seem to be getting voltage in the right places for the windows, not sure about the locks. As far as the locks go, they cannot even be done by hand. If I try to lock them I have to press so hard that the linkage bends, and I get no where. Any suggestions? This is for both rear doors.

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nlewman

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Rear door lock actuators are seized.
Window motors are probably shot also.

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The lock actuators are the 3 screws on the latch part of the door, yes? Those screws are seized too, I've been trying to get them out for a few hours today. Wd40 won't budge them.

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Amazing what lack of lube, build up of dust and dirt and time will do for our doors. Can't tell you the number that started with "dang __________ broke" that is really just a lack of lube plus dirt build up.

I like to gut the doors of all moving parts and use a solvent such as diesel, paint thinner or Zep 75 to dissolve all the dried up old grease combined with dust and dirt dried on. Amazing how much dirt will be in the latches them selves. Then after blowing it dry and cleaning again with Berrymans or Brakeclean, I lube the latches inner and outer door handles, linkages, and window regulator with a penetrating spray grease with teflon powder, or high quality motorcycle chain lube such as motul NOT spray white grease or any other high viscosity spray grease.

Just did this a few weeks ago on the 96, second time since I got it back in 2003. Works sooo smooth now!
 

nlewman

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Amazing what lack of lube, build up of dust and dirt and time will do for our doors. Can't tell you the number that started with "dang __________ broke" that is really just a lack of lube plus dirt build up.

I like to gut the doors of all moving parts and use a solvent such as diesel, paint thinner or Zep 75 to dissolve all the dried up old grease combined with dust and dirt dried on. Amazing how much dirt will be in the latches them selves. Then after blowing it dry and cleaning again with Berrymans or Brakeclean, I lube the latches inner and outer door handles, linkages, and window regulator with a penetrating spray grease with teflon powder, or high quality motorcycle chain lube such as motul NOT spray white grease or any other high viscosity spray grease.

Just did this a few weeks ago on the 96, second time since I got it back in 2003. Works sooo smooth now!
So you would recommend drilling out all the rivets and redoing everything?

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For taper headed screws such as those that hold the door latch to the door I have found it is not something penatrating oil can help. It is the taper screw head locked ked into the taper. I like to use a flat ended punch and a pretty good sized hammer. Don't want to damage the screw head, but give it a whack like you were trying to drive that screw right through the door. If you have and old school hammer driven impact scredriver use that. If not, use a scrwdriver that fits properly. Get it locked in and apply as much torque as you can, then hit the end of the screwwdriver handle with a good size hammer. It workes like the old impactool . I've never failed to get out a screw this way. Used it on the door latch screws just a few days ago.
 
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