Possible Lifter Failure

thetallguy94

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Sooooo I believe my truck has suffered lifter failure. I know that i was having some issues with them (had a bent pushrod replaced and was still getting an odd tick) and I think something finally let go. I replaced the water pump and was flushing coolant when the truck decided not to crank back up for me. It did not want to build ICP. So before it goes into the shop for anything I am going to go ahead and save up money and prepare for the worst lol

So I would like y'all's opinion on what the best route is for me? Should I pay to have it repaired (assuming only the needle bearings let go and did not do damage to anything but the cam & LPOP) or save up for a short block from Asheville Engine?


If I choose to repair this is my current build sheet that will be getting done if the motor is not trashed:
Stage 2 Colt Cam
OEM 6.0 Lifters from River City Diesel
6.4 Pushrods
Warren LPOP
And some other goodies (lift pump, exhaust wrap, etc)

Would anyone change up anything from this list to prevent lifter failure from happening again?
 

ghohouston

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Pull the oil pressure regulator and stick a small magnet in the bore, see if needle bearings come out. Is the oil pressure gauge on the dash coming up? If you dropped a lifter, you will need a new lpop for sure, which would be why the truck wont start.
 

thetallguy94

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Pull the oil pressure regulator and stick a small magnet in the bore, see if needle bearings come out. Is the oil pressure gauge on the dash coming up? If you dropped a lifter, you will need a new lpop for sure, which would be why the truck wont start.

You know what when it would not start I was only looking at ICP on my edge and did not bother to watch the oil pressure gauge on the dash lol

I will try to start it today when I get off and watch for pressure.....and might as well make sure the RPM are registering to rule out the CPS

Just tired of putting money into this thing and am ready to actually enjoy driving the truck again lol
 

ghohouston

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Well it's a 6.0, you're gonna spend money on it... check the gauge and report back. Definitely pull the regulator out and check for needle bearings after looking at the gauge.
 

thetallguy94

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Well it's a 6.0, you're gonna spend money on it... check the gauge and report back. Definitely pull the regulator out and check for needle bearings after looking at the gauge.

Yea I know how to make my wallet lighter than a feather lol

When you are talking about the oil pressure regulator are you referring to the ICP sensor? or something located elsewhere.....
 

Zmann

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MA0607_TF2relief.jpg
 

thetallguy94

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Right, so on the front cover below the LPOP........so when I take it out will oil come pouring out? Sorry for the unawareness, never had to **** with the front cover yet.....other than the water pump lol
 

thetallguy94

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Uh-oh

So when cranking the RPM jumps good, ICP almost makes it, coming in at 450 but the oil pressure gauge only moves a little bit when I first turned the key on. When actually cranking it doesn't move :flush:

Soooo that's no bueno
 

Zmann

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that oil guage is operated by a on / off 5 psi pressure switch not a variable sender just FYI
 

thetallguy94

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that oil guage is operated by a on / off 5 psi pressure switch not a variable sender just FYI

I'm guessing that means I have a little bit of PSI but not a lot?? I am getting a magnet tomorrow to check for needle bearings.
 

ghohouston

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You likely have a high pressure oil leak, or your ipr is bad. My guess is a leak. Generally a dead ipr puts out a bit less pressure than what you're producing.
 

thetallguy94

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You likely have a high pressure oil leak, or your ipr is bad. My guess is a leak. Generally a dead ipr puts out a bit less pressure than what you're producing.

If that is the case I am wondering what it could be, I had the updated STC fitting along with stand pipes and dummy plugs done less than a year ago. It also got a new HPOP around that time.
 

thetallguy94

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I wish i could do one lol Pretty limited on my tools and whatnot (I know, I know every 6.0 owner should be able to do an air test :doh: )

But it will be getting towed to a shop (again) for the lifter repair/rebuild so I will have the no start addressed if it indeed is a leak somewhere
 

thetallguy94

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So to keep the thread going just a bit has anyone had good experience with River City Diesel's stage 2 cam? I am looking at getting that along with their high rev valve springs/lifters and their Chromoly Stage 1 pushrods.

The truck will mainly be a DD while towing 7,000Ib every now and again. Does anyone think this is a little overboard? lol
 

SICKS LITER

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After my experience with their stage 1 I would stick with the stock cam. Along time ago a wise man once told me not to bother with cams unless its an 03 cam and boy do I wish I listened. I own 2 of these trucks, same setups one has a cam one doesn't. The stock cam truck went 13.23 @ 101 while the stage 1 truck won't do better than 13.6 @ 96. Check out my thread a little ways down "power loss with stage 1 cam"
 
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thetallguy94

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After my experience with their stage 1 I would stick with the stock cam. Along time ago a wise man once told me not to bother with cams unless its an 03 cam and boy do I wish I listened. I own 2 of these trucks, same setups one has a cam one doesn't. The stock cam truck went 13.23 @ 101 while the stage 1 truck won't do better than 13.6 @ 96. Check out my thread a little ways down "power loss with stage 1 cam"

Hmmm that is a little worrisome. However I want to steer clear of RCD and go with a stage 1 or a stage 2 Colt Cam depending on the health of my stock cam when it comes out.

I mainly want to get a "upgraded" cam to help prolong the life of my new lifters as well as help spool my S363
 

sootie

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Hmmm that is a little worrisome. However I want to steer clear of RCD and go with a stage 1 or a stage 2 Colt Cam depending on the health of my stock cam when it comes out.

I mainly want to get a "upgraded" cam to help prolong the life of my new lifters as well as help spool my S363

talk to Brenton at Sideactiondiesel
 

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