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Old 01-08-2020, 01:09 PM
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chaselee chaselee is offline
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Default Has anyone used aftermarket steering on these trucks to get rid of the tie rod roll??

I thought my steering box was worn out, so I just replaced it with a redhead. It does steer quite a bit easier but it did not help with the steering wonder going down the highway. After really looking into it. I have pretty bad tie rod roll, which I'm guessing has a bunch to do with it. Tie rods and all front end components are good and fairly new. Just has quite a bit of the infamous tie rod roll. My question is, has anyone done maybe a heim joint setup on these lifted trucks to make them drive straight down the highway. Any input is welcome.
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1996 CCSB Auto, John Wood VB, Dual disc TC, 4.10 gears, Irate efuel, super duty intercooler, BW 364.5 sxe turbo, 4" turbo back, AFE CAI, Full force 205/80 sticks, 1023 Hydra tunes, 4" lift d60 swap, 37" Maxxis razr MT.
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Old 01-08-2020, 01:30 PM
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Lt.Dan Lt.Dan is offline
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I did my own heim steering on my OBS when I SAS'd it. It works well, but if not setup correctly, could be just as bad as stock.
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Old 01-08-2020, 02:13 PM
JCart JCart is offline
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Chaselee,
What I am trying with mine currently is I made a custom washer out of thicker UHMW (think it is 9mm thick). Latest passenger side tie rod end didn’t come with a grease boot but a soft rubber washer and a steel washer. So I replaced the rubber washer (as it was pooched) with the UHMW one and stacked the steel washer between knuckle and UHMW washer. Has tightened up the steering and I may put one in drivers side once I get more miles on it just to see. An other option is to “clock” both tie rod ends to take out most of the rotation. Did this on one of my trucks a few years ago and it work well, I did leave a small amount of rotation play so as not to bind in rough terrain at full lock.
j
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'97 F250 ECLB Tan White Tan Now ZF5 , 4:10’s, D60, PMF 3.5 RSK, 37” Toyo RTs Anti sways front/rear w rear bags 5” blocks (184,000 Kms) DP, intake and 4” exhaust, FFD 205/30s, Hydra, E fuel.
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Old 01-08-2020, 02:25 PM
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chaselee chaselee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JCart View Post
Chaselee,
What I am trying with mine currently is I made a custom washer out of thicker UHMW (think it is 9mm thick). Latest passenger side tie rod end didn’t come with a grease boot but a soft rubber washer and a steel washer. So I replaced the rubber washer (as it was pooched) with the UHMW one and stacked the steel washer between knuckle and UHMW washer. Has tightened up the steering and I may put one in drivers side once I get more miles on it just to see. An other option is to “clock” both tie rod ends to take out most of the rotation. Did this on one of my trucks a few years ago and it work well, I did leave a small amount of rotation play so as not to bind in rough terrain at full lock.
j

Yeah I already tried clicking the tie rods to no avail.
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1996 CCSB Auto, John Wood VB, Dual disc TC, 4.10 gears, Irate efuel, super duty intercooler, BW 364.5 sxe turbo, 4" turbo back, AFE CAI, Full force 205/80 sticks, 1023 Hydra tunes, 4" lift d60 swap, 37" Maxxis razr MT.
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Old 01-09-2020, 12:23 PM
JCart JCart is offline
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Reverse Shackle Kit installed or stock configuration with lift springs? Track bar installed?
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'97 F250 ECLB Tan White Tan Now ZF5 , 4:10’s, D60, PMF 3.5 RSK, 37” Toyo RTs Anti sways front/rear w rear bags 5” blocks (184,000 Kms) DP, intake and 4” exhaust, FFD 205/30s, Hydra, E fuel.
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Old 01-09-2020, 02:07 PM
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chaselee chaselee is offline
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Yes. PMF RSK with super duty springs and rough country track bar
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1996 CCSB Auto, John Wood VB, Dual disc TC, 4.10 gears, Irate efuel, super duty intercooler, BW 364.5 sxe turbo, 4" turbo back, AFE CAI, Full force 205/80 sticks, 1023 Hydra tunes, 4" lift d60 swap, 37" Maxxis razr MT.
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Old 01-09-2020, 03:54 PM
JCart JCart is offline
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Chaselee,
How much caster you runnin? Do a search here as some guys are using tapered wedges and getting 5-6 degrees caster which helps with steering wander iirc. I’m running very similar to what you have on my Tan truck only ECLB and it’s very nice, don’t know what caster is at though.
j
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'97 F250 ECLB Tan White Tan Now ZF5 , 4:10’s, D60, PMF 3.5 RSK, 37” Toyo RTs Anti sways front/rear w rear bags 5” blocks (184,000 Kms) DP, intake and 4” exhaust, FFD 205/30s, Hydra, E fuel.
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Old 01-09-2020, 04:25 PM
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chaselee chaselee is offline
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Never given caster a thought to be honest. So you don't think my wandering has anything to do with the tie rod roll slop?
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1996 CCSB Auto, John Wood VB, Dual disc TC, 4.10 gears, Irate efuel, super duty intercooler, BW 364.5 sxe turbo, 4" turbo back, AFE CAI, Full force 205/80 sticks, 1023 Hydra tunes, 4" lift d60 swap, 37" Maxxis razr MT.
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Old 01-09-2020, 05:21 PM
JCart JCart is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chaselee View Post
Never given caster a thought to be honest. So you don't think my wandering has anything to do with the tie rod roll slop?
Not sure, process of elimination though right. On my trucks clocking the tie rods helped lots, the latest UHMW disc between passenger tie rod post and steering knuckle tightened mine up on Tan truck such that I never (least not yet) had to clock the T rod ends.

Where I live due to heavy transport truck traffic on highways the road surface get longitudinal ridges in them and with wide tires and lots of side walls can lead to a wandering truck. So you’re constantly correcting the trajectory, now add that with not to spec U bolt torque on the front end OR rear end, non torque spec trac bar or mounting bolts, not enough caster, loose wheel bearings, bad tire or low tire pressure, tons of variables that can contribute to ****ty steering.

I will say the 37” Toyo R/Ts have been superior tires for sure, balanced well never a shake and so smooth, I will buy again for sure.

Just remembered I also install a Borgeson mid steering shaft, replaces the stock piece of keerap, between steering box and steering column.... there can be huge play there. If so short term fix is (while waiting for Borgeson) is tighten up the slide section of mid steering by using a chisel or air hammer and reshaping the groove to take out the rotary slop.
Cheers,
j
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'97 F250 ECLB Tan White Tan Now ZF5 , 4:10’s, D60, PMF 3.5 RSK, 37” Toyo RTs Anti sways front/rear w rear bags 5” blocks (184,000 Kms) DP, intake and 4” exhaust, FFD 205/30s, Hydra, E fuel.
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  #10  
Old 01-09-2020, 10:55 PM
Garbage_Mechanic Garbage_Mechanic is offline
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I strongly agree with the washer set up to cut down tie rod roll. One must be careful not to make it too rigid since the angle between the tie rod and the knuckle changes from lock to lock. It has to be a compromise between stopping the roll and being so tight it pops the tie rod off with catastrophic results. My first attempt using a piece of poly from a random left over Energy bushing ended up with the poly washer pooching out. Results were good for a few days. So then I machined a pair of cup washers to nearly enclose the poly in steel. This has been working great on 2 trucks for a few years.
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