fine metal shavings in filter?? need help asap

went to change oil and there are metal shavings in every fold of the oil filter. specs here n there in the oil. most of them are small/fine. nothing huge but its a lot. where should I start looking? should I park the truck to prevent more damage?

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also just put a new IPR in thought it was bad but when I'm coasting(6 speed) my IPR drops to 14.8 but at high idle and driving it stays above that. idk if that helps or not.

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Camshaft failure. I'd shut it down for good. Any further and you'll wear Down a roller on a lifter and ruin your LPOP, front cover, etc... what did drain plug have on it

Rip the top and bottom off the filter and spread it out flat to get better pictures. I've seen this a million times. What's your milege?

its at 136k would I notice any other problems with the camshaft?

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Not early on. Once the lifter goes, you'll have popping out the intake and eventually within miles you'll lose low pressure oil due to front cover being chewed up by roller bearings and then it won't start

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Here's my cam. Didn't even notice it, at idle power balance graph was perfect. Caught it right before lifter let go

http://i.imgur.com/SoYh3Fm.jpg

what is required to replace one?

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Pull motor, pull heads, pull rear cover, mark and pull crankshaft pulley (this can be difficult and if not done correctly you'll need a new crank).

Also, even if these failed parts were replaced, there is no guarantee the engine will make it. There is alot of metal that can by pass the filter. So far so good on mine and many others here have done this.

At work we usually quote motors for this type of failure. Or at least shortblocks

I've done a few camshafts in 6.0s, and about 50 different engines.. If you have a metal failure, it's mandatory to take it apart down to the block and clean it very well. REPLACE your oil cooler as 6.0s have a fin type and not a log type like a 7.3, or a Cummins NTC or Cat 3406... Get it apart now, you'll probably be best off replacing the hpop, and take a magnet to the IPR screen and inspect it closely. When I used to repair DT466s for this common failure that's how I knew we were getting up there in parts is pull the IPR and run a magnet across it.. If there is metal there, there is metal in the oil rails, and through the injectors as well. Treat it as if you were gonna overhaul it. Then you'll have good luck with the cam replacement.

so its fairly certain its a camshaft n not a hpop or anything else? just making sure.

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Well pull the IPR and inspect the screen for metal shavings on the screen, it's rare to see a HPOP fail and not cause a hard to start condition if there is a metal failure.. I've seen HPOP failures usually come a while after there was a serious leak that an owner didn't fix fast enough (I:E injector D-ring split and they kept using either to get it started hot, yes people are this dumb, ask questions later) but if you have metal inside your oil filter you most likely have a cam failing and flaking.. Which is a lot of work unfortunately.

how is the best way to remove the motor? besides gaskets and normal stuff, what parts are needed?
new cam, lifters, hpop, oil cooler, n check IPR? what are cams running now?

I replaced IPR about 1000 miles ago because I had a weird idle issue. the old screen was busted and had a couple tiny flakes on it.
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If you replaced the IPR that had a broken screen that had metal on it I would be very leery of a failed hpop... But it wouldn't hurt to pull cab, valve covers and heads off to get all lifters out to take a look at everything.. I was once told a young man thinks he knows and an old man knows he knows.. Hope this helps.

Damn. Hope you get it fixed

I would atleast tear the truck down to the short block, hot tank the front cover, and make sure you don't have any scoring there. pull all the lifters out, remove the adapter place and slid the cam out. before you even start ordering parts, check the cam bearings also. we had this happen on the Harley excursion after a few weeks of driving when we first put a used motor in. we were able to save it with a new cam and some new internal parts. But the more you drive it the more damage and more expensive its going to get.

I posted my father-in-laws 6.4 motor running on here. (6.4L section)
It didn't miss, idle rough, or seem shy on power...and...he just had the oil changed.
It was knocking, couldn't tell where from though.
It wiped the cam out.


The problem with such small particles, is, they get into everything.
Those metal sparkles are in your turbo, roller lifters, rod, cam, and crank bearings, even the injector bodies, and spools....the entire engine.

This is nothing short of a complete tear-down, and rebuild.
You try to patch it, and it's going to pile right up again, as everything is damaged internally.

I do agree to some point. But when I took mine down, I had no signs of any metal anywhere except the oil filter. The pan was super clean and not a speck in it. So I assume my failure happened with engine at op temp and oil filter filtering @100%. Time will tell with mine, but I found nothing on IPR and nothing oil reservoir screen.

You can get lucky, just depends on what time frame of failure were at.

so just say I need a new cam n all the other things that go along with it. what price range am I looking at if I took it to a shop. I plan on doing it myself but I'm looking for ballpark figure and I know it depends on how bad it is but just getting some options going.

and am I in a better position to just fix what I have or look at a new/used motor?

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