IDM,PCM Failure?

Dirtclod

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I was on my way home from Charleston SC early Friday morning and my engine pulsed off and on a couple times. This happened once before and one of the wires had rubbed a bare spot arcing out on the fuel line. I stopped checked it out looked ok went on. After I got home I had the hood up while running and the power wire off the alternator was loose and smoking. I shut it down took it off inspected it and accidentally sparked it to ground. I reinstalled and would only turn over. 3 fuses blown under the dash. 12,22 and not sure of the other one but it was a 10 amp and by looking at it I think it was 19. After replacing these it fired up and ran fine. Parked it last night and now only turns over. I'm definitely going to replace the connectors and wires from idm. I haven't really had time to do any trouble shooting and I have to head back in the morning for work. Any suggestions?
 

Dirtclod

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I'm sure some of you guys have used the obdII wifi/Bluetooth iPhone or android app to use diagnostics on your trucks. I have to get a new phone this week so I guess it's the iPhone X. And since I won a gift certificate at Best Buy I'm going to get an iPad. Basically to use in my truck for audio and try out this wifi diagnostics dumaflochy! Let me get this right and someone correct me if I'm wrong. While cranking I should see rpms move,if not cps could be faulty.
If rpm's move check oil pressure at hpop,I think somewhere around 2000 psi? Disconnect Ipc sensor and if truck cranks this sensor is bad.
If not check ipr valve, not really sure how to check the valve but if it's opening I should see pressure so I suppose take something loose and see if oil shoots out? If all this works then I suppose it's time to check idm to valve cover wiring for power,then resistance through each wire,then check voltage through the injector solenoid and see if it returns. Are these steps correct in my diagnosis?
 

Dirtclod

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Well I picked up an IDM this week for 150$ off a 2000. Going in the morning and getting new wiring harness to plug in the top of valve cover. I'll ohm out the wires to see if things are good under valve cover and through from idm. Hopefully tomorrow she'll be running again
 

Dirtclod

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Well today I got busy on troubleshooting my IDM. With key off and harness unplugged at the IDM and plugged in at the valve covers. I checked resistance from hot feed to each injector. 2 on the drivers side read 12.4 ohms and 4.8 ohms which is too high. One on the passengers side read 3.8. The rest were inside the norm between 2.8&3.1. I checked resistance to the solenoids and and resistance to the hot feed to each side and all was open or zero resistance. So under the valve covers are ok. So tomorrow I'm going to tear the wiring apart starting at the valve cover plug to the idm to see where the problem is at with the wires. Evidently when the alternator wire was loose and hot it must've burned through to those wires causing a short. I guess we'll find out tomorrow.
 

dmd

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I went through this with a intermittently faulty modified Swamps IDM that I sent to
them and they tested as good... After replacing almost everything after the IDM I
called them asking if any way the testing could have missed it. They agreed that testing
isn't always 100%.... UGH.. replaced the IDM with a known good one and it has
been fine for months now... Wish they had told me that in the beginning.

We did find some burnt wires and had to replace the pigtail and under the valve
cover wiring on one side, and the injectors had over 200K on them so it wasn't a
complete waste.

Mine would shutdown the drivers side injectors so it would run really bad, then it would just go away for weeks. Then would come back randomly.. Whenever it happened and I
would get ready to find the issue it would go away... Shop drove it for weeks for around
town for parts pickup and it ran great.. Injector wiring and IDM problems can be difficult.
 

Dave_Nevada

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Here's some help. Been there done that.

Testing notes for my Early 99 7.3 injector / glow plug harness under the valve covers

1. During the continuity check of the glow plugs, attach the black meter lead to engine ground somewhere on the head. Touch the positive meter lead to the head and obtain a baseline resistance reading.

Make note of it.

2. For each glow plug checked, the resistance should be .9 to 1 ohms, but no greater than 1.5 ohms. If it is, your glow plug or gasket connector needs replacement.

3. If you read OL (digital) or no meter swing at all (analog meter), you have an open wire or bad
contact on the harness.

4. For the sake of consistency, check each glow plug connector for continuity first.

Then move to the injector continuity test.

Injector Coils

Place the meter red lead on the harness yellow, green, blue or red wire. Place the black lead on the black wire (center lug). The meter should read around 1.0 ohm.

Take all the injector measurements and compare. They should be balanced. If you see one out of whack, you have a bad injector coil, connector or loose wire.

Again, when checking injectors for continuity, always set the meter to the lowest ohms setting.

Simply look at the illustration and make your measurements based off the Ford harness.

Note*
Large lugs in the connector are for glow plugs (High current).
The smaller lugs are for the injector wires.
The center lug is always ground.


Factory Harness color codes

White = Glow Plugs (Large lug)
Black = Injector Ground (Center)
Yellow = Injector 1/8 (Smaller lug)
Green = Injector 3/6 (Smaller lug)
Blue = Injector 5/4 (Smaller lug)
Red = Injector 7/2 (Smaller lug)

CAUTION: Some 7.3 PCM’s (California program map) do not like after-market glow plugs resistance values. They will cause P1316 error codes. You must use factory spec glow plugs to clear the code.

Burned wires/connectors cause problems for IDM's. If you look at the connectors, you'll see what I mean. Burned components cause an increase in resistance.

Pull your valve covers and inspect the harness and connections. DO NOT USE COMMIE DORMAN VALVE COVER HARNESSES, THEY SUCK.

Ask me how I know that.

Spend the money and get OEM.

Always use the 120 IDM on any 7.3 (Look at the tag on the box) 100 & 110 IDM's are just too wimpy to get the job done.

120's run the best.
 

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lincolnlocker

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Testing notes for my Early 99 7.3 injector / glow plug harness under the valve covers

1. During the continuity check of the glow plugs, attach the black meter lead to engine ground somewhere on the head. Touch the positive meter lead to the head and obtain a baseline resistance reading.

Make note of it.

2. For each glow plug checked, the resistance should be .9 to 1 ohms, but no greater than 1.5 ohms. If it is, your glow plug or gasket connector needs replacement.

3. If you read OL (digital) or no meter swing at all (analog meter), you have an open wire or bad
contact on the harness.

4. For the sake of consistency, check each glow plug connector for continuity first.

Then move to the injector continuity test.

Injector Coils

Place the meter red lead on the harness yellow, green, blue or red wire. Place the black lead on the black wire (center lug). The meter should read around 1.0 ohm.

Take all the injector measurements and compare. They should be balanced. If you see one out of whack, you have a bad injector coil, connector or loose wire.

Again, when checking injectors for continuity, always set the meter to the lowest ohms setting.

Simply look at the illustration and make your measurements based off the Ford harness.

Note*
Large lugs in the connector are for glow plugs (High current).
The smaller lugs are for the injector wires.
The center lug is always ground.


Factory Harness color codes

White = Glow Plugs (Large lug)
Black = Injector Ground (Center)
Yellow =Injector 1/8 (Smaller lug)
Green = Injector 3/6 (Smaller lug)
Blue = Injector 5/4 (Smaller lug)
Red = Injector 7/2 (Smaller lug)

CAUTION: Some 7.3 PCM’s (California program map) do not like after-market glow plugs resistance values. They will cause P1316 error codes. You must use factory spec glow plugs to clear the code.

Burned wires/connectors cause problems for IDM's. If you look at the connectors, you'll see what I mean. Burned components cause an increase in resistance.

Pull your valve covers and inspect the harness and connections. DO NOT USE COMMIE DORMAN VALVE COVER HARNESSES, THEY SUCK.

Ask me how I know that.

Spend the money and get OEM.

Always use the 120 IDM on any 7.3 (Look at the tag on the box) 100 & 110 IDM's are just too wimpy to get the job done.

120's run the best.
Dam dave! Another awesome post!

live life full throttle
 

Dirtclod

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Today I replaced the passengers side connector. The clip was broke and the wires didn't look good either. I could tell they had been hot. After I replaced it they were all in spec but not consistent. From 2.8-3.5. The other side clonnector looks fine and wires look good. One injector reads 12.5ohms on the first test. After stripping back the plastic flex and inspecting wires plugged back in 10.9 ohms. 2 were 2.9 the other was 3.5 which was down from 4.1 on original test. More inspecting test again back to 12.5 and the other above 4 ohms. The other 2 was 2.9 consistent. Going to Ford Tuesday and get wiring harness for both valve covers. My gpr is ford oem just replaced a year ago. Obviously there's a problem in the harness under the valve cover. Power to each side tested goodit was open and shields tested open. So solenoids must be ok and open power circuit. I think while Im down in here I'll go ahead and do a CCv mod. There's oil puddled up in inlet to the turbo and all in the intercooler pipes. If I had my bellowed upipes I'd go ahead and do those to but there in my rv down SC. I'd like to go ahead rebuild the turbo but might as well wait till I do the upipes. Oh well with over 300k miles it's something all time. I'd like to just tear it all down rebuild back.
Merry Christmas Everyone!! God Bless Us and hope Eveyone has a prosperous and healthy New Year!
 

Dave_Nevada

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Today I replaced the passengers side connector. The clip was broke and the wires didn't look good either. I could tell they had been hot. After I replaced it they were all in spec but not consistent. From 2.8-3.5. The other side clonnector looks fine and wires look good. One injector reads 12.5ohms on the first test. After stripping back the plastic flex and inspecting wires plugged back in 10.9 ohms. 2 were 2.9 the other was 3.5 which was down from 4.1 on original test. More inspecting test again back to 12.5 and the other above 4 ohms. The other 2 was 2.9 consistent. Going to Ford Tuesday and get wiring harness for both valve covers. My gpr is ford oem just replaced a year ago. Obviously there's a problem in the harness under the valve cover. Power to each side tested goodit was open and shields tested open. So solenoids must be ok and open power circuit. I think while Im down in here I'll go ahead and do a CCv mod. There's oil puddled up in inlet to the turbo and all in the intercooler pipes. If I had my bellowed upipes I'd go ahead and do those to but there in my rv down SC. I'd like to go ahead rebuild the turbo but might as well wait till I do the upipes. Oh well with over 300k miles it's something all time. I'd like to just tear it all down rebuild back.
Merry Christmas Everyone!! God Bless Us and hope Eveyone has a prosperous and healthy New Year!


-------------------------
1st and foremost, Merry Christmas to you too!!

On your turbo and up-pipes, yeah, best to wait until you have those up-pipes in hand.

I was lucky enough to have read about those up-pipes while I had my trans pulled. They were easy to replace with the trans out. Because of that, I didn't have to yank the turbo, just the 'Y' pipe. The 'Y' pipe needed the flange surfaces cleaned up a bit from a wire wheel, and I chased the threads with a metric tap (M8 x 1.25? I think), but that's all I did to it. The clamp was in good shape so I reused it. I was fully prepared to yank the turbo and pedestal (Pedestal 'O' ring kit), but simply didn't need to.

On your injector coils: it really sounds like you've got some issues there. Mine were all balanced in their measurement, none being out of whack at all. I know that doesn't make you feel good (It wouldn't me), but facts are facts. If you have to change the injectors, it's a job, but worth every penny spent. Besides, at 300K miles, you're due anyway. It's common knowledge these engines can go a good 500K before they need a full rebuild- if you take care of them (air, oil fuel filter changes, etc). But yeah, you'll be putting some money in them along the way.

Regardless of which way you look at it, it's still cheaper than a new truck. Even if you were to throw a reman long block in there, that's only 5K for a new one. If you bought a new truck like my neighbor just did, he's now got payments for a $38K truck (Dodge gasser, nice truck sucky payments).

His payment will tip the scales at around $600 or more a month. Gee whiz, at that rate, if you buy a reman long block to install, you'd be done paying it off in about 10 months, all things equal.

Anyway, those gasket/wiring looms can be a pain in the arse to troubleshoot, which is why I logged my findings. Oh, and if you removed the little air breathers on the valve covers, grab the O-rings that fit under them. You'll need to replace them because you'll never get them back into the hole they came out of, they swell up from oil penetration.

If you were able to remove the valve covers without taking them off, you're golden. When I had my covers off, I took the opportunity to swap out my glow plug relay, install new OEM glow plugs (they're cheap, do it now!), change my fuel filter, clean my air filter (I run a K&N) and do an overall inspection.

Keep us posted on your findings. I am very curious about the resistance measurements you are getting on your injector coils.

Oh, and if I were you, I'd change the battery in my volt meter. If you're getting inconsistent continuity readings, the battery may be weak. That is the first thing I do when the measurements are all over the board. Those coils (and glow plugs) should be consistent across the board. Like I said before, if they're not, you have resistance from burned contacts on the hardness, open wires, or a bad coil or glow plug.

Glow plugs should be a dang near short (1 ohm) to work correctly. They work on current draw to heat up, NOT voltage. That's why your harness will show evidence of heat on the connectors.

injector coils on the other hand are opposite. Essentially they work on voltage, not current. That's why when you boost your IDM output voltage with the resistor modification, they will work a bit better because depending on the IDM part number, you are upping the game from 100, 110, 120 volts to 140 volts. Folks have reported a crisper throttle, idle as smoother. In a stock engine situation, most felt a power increase. Not so much in a highly modified engine. You can't get much more than the limit of the hardware, law of diminishing returns applies here.
As far as I know, I have seen no reports of damage to injectors or of the IDM whatsoever by doing so and the mod has been employed for several years now. You can see how to do it by searching the net. Nothing new there.
 
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Dirtclod

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Thanks Dave Nevada. It's crazy how that happened with the alternator wire. I suppose it could be coincidence that this happened like it did. I'm thinking it's related because of the high voltage on/off/on/off a couple times somewhere in there something got hot. The one reading 12.5 probably had least resistance causing an issue and and eventually mingled with ground causing failure to idm. Just a guess.

I'm planning to get an iPad tomorrow and a friend has obd2 connector to iPad so I can do some diagnostics and a buzz test to see how the injectors are firing. I know it's close to time for injectors but that's gonna be expensive. I was hoping to have adrenaline hpop and turbo setup at least bought first and hydra chip to match new injectors. But the dam truck wants screw up somewhere every other week. Front drivers wheel bearing went out 2 weeks ago costing 2 tow bills,wheel bearing assembly,rotor,caliper,pads And labor cause I was out of town. Still have to replace locking hubs.
The truck needs a coil spring axle swap due to passenger frame horn being bent due to a crash. The front axle is due service cause it's all factory. I'd rather spend the money on a coil spring Dana 60 than the 50. Of course I can take time to go through a 60 axle with all parts. Ball joints,ujoints,seals,grease change and new aftermarket cover. And all new bushings and steering components. As long as my current setup stays intact.
Then there's the short bed to repair,stripping and prep the whole truck for paint. And some interior attention also.
I haven't had a truck payment in years but it's looking awfully convenient right now. I guess at least I do know what I have and if I get a used truck then there could be issues there as well. And would have to pay labor cause I don't know **** about the 6.7's.
I'll do some work on it tomorrow and pull valve covers,take some pics and trouble shoot somore. I'll report back with resistance readings with new batteries.
 

Dave_Nevada

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Thanks Dave Nevada. It's crazy how that happened with the alternator wire. I suppose it could be coincidence that this happened like it did. I'm thinking it's related because of the high voltage on/off/on/off a couple times somewhere in there something got hot. The one reading 12.5 probably had least resistance causing an issue and and eventually mingled with ground causing failure to idm. Just a guess.

It's actually the current 'spike' that wiped you out. Coils really don't dig higher current than they are designed for. It tends to melt insulation, short out IC chips and drivers, electrolytic capacitors, etc.

What's even worse is when you apply current to a system 'ground', you have no fuse protection AT ALL.

The only protection in high end electronics circuits is built in from an MOV (Metal Oxide Varistor) designed to shunt any incoming spike in the power bus for this very thing. Most vehicles do not have this luxury. High end military stuff is automatically designed with it in the event of a nuclear blast and the associated EMP that follows.

Unfortunately, as bad azz we think our trucks might be, they are not what the military calls 'Rad hardened'. So when these types of events happen, we are stuck with troubleshooting the heck out of it until we solve all of the problems.

Keep me posted!
 

Dirtclod

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Since you mentioned that I'm hoping it didn't send current through the pcm. I'm not an electronics guy but I understand some of it. I know that a diode is like a check valve, it only allows current one way. And I suppose there is one in the pcm for this reason except it's not going to save the pcm but probably protect whatever for more damage. Fixn to yank valve covers in a bit and see what's up!
 

Dirtclod

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Well that valve cover gasket on drivers side rear bolt was A€>~# ������
After removal and unplugged harness connector on the inside of valve cover and plugged back in the results were 1.9 all four. Back under the hood I moved wires a little broke small tie tie wraps and separated wires results were 2.9 on all four! ��������. So that one should be fine after new gasket and harness. I also moved the plug on passengers side and readings were better than before with 2-3 points variation. Between 2.5&3.1. So it looks like the harness on both sides are the culprit. Both the power feeds to both sides read open and so did shield. I'll report back when all is finished with a final result.
 

Dave_Nevada

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-------------------------
1st and foremost, Merry Christmas to you too!!

On your turbo and up-pipes, yeah, best to wait until you have those up-pipes in hand.

I was lucky enough to have read about those up-pipes while I had my trans pulled. They were easy to replace with the trans out. Because of that, I didn't have to yank the turbo, just the 'Y' pipe. The 'Y' pipe needed the flange surfaces cleaned up a bit from a wire wheel, and I chased the threads with a metric tap (M8 x 1.25? I think), but that's all I did to it. The clamp was in good shape so I reused it. I was fully prepared to yank the turbo and pedestal (Pedestal 'O' ring kit), but simply didn't need to.

On your injector coils: it really sounds like you've got some issues there. Mine were all balanced in their measurement, none being out of whack at all. I know that doesn't make you feel good (It wouldn't me), but facts are facts. If you have to change the injectors, it's a job, but worth every penny spent. Besides, at 300K miles, you're due anyway. It's common knowledge these engines can go a good 500K before they need a full rebuild- if you take care of them (air, oil fuel filter changes, etc). But yeah, you'll be putting some money in them along the way.

Regardless of which way you look at it, it's still cheaper than a new truck. Even if you were to throw a reman long block in there, that's only 5K for a new one. If you bought a new truck like my neighbor just did, he's now got payments for a $38K truck (Dodge gasser, nice truck sucky payments).

His payment will tip the scales at around $600 or more a month. Gee whiz, at that rate, if you buy a reman long block to install, you'd be done paying it off in about 10 months, all things equal.

Anyway, those gasket/wiring looms can be a pain in the arse to troubleshoot, which is why I logged my findings. Oh, and if you removed the little air breathers on the valve covers, grab the O-rings that fit under them. You'll need to replace them because you'll never get them back into the hole they came out of, they swell up from oil penetration.

If you were able to remove the valve covers without taking them off, you're golden. When I had my covers off, I took the opportunity to swap out my glow plug relay, install new OEM glow plugs (they're cheap, do it now!), change my fuel filter, clean my air filter (I run a K&N) and do an overall inspection.

Keep us posted on your findings. I am very curious about the resistance measurements you are getting on your injector coils.

Oh, and if I were you, I'd change the battery in my volt meter. If you're getting inconsistent continuity readings, the battery may be weak. That is the first thing I do when the measurements are all over the board. Those coils (and glow plugs) should be consistent across the board. Like I said before, if they're not, you have resistance from burned contacts on the hardness, open wires, or a bad coil or glow plug.

Glow plugs should be a dang near short (1 ohm) to work correctly. They work on current draw to heat up, NOT voltage. That's why your harness will show evidence of heat on the connectors.

injector coils on the other hand are opposite. Essentially they work on voltage, not current. That's why when you boost your IDM output voltage with the resistor modification, they will work a bit better because depending on the IDM part number, you are upping the game from 100, 110, 120 volts to 140 volts. Folks have reported a crisper throttle, idle as smoother. In a stock engine situation, most felt a power increase. Not so much in a highly modified engine. You can't get much more than the limit of the hardware, law of diminishing returns applies here.
As far as I know, I have seen no reports of damage to injectors or of the IDM whatsoever by doing so and the mod has been employed for several years now. You can see how to do it by searching the net. Nothing new there.

One thing I forgot to add about injector coils:

Look at the tops of the injectors and write down the part numbers. Before you switch them out- order the same kind. They're too expensive to be messing around here. All part numbers should match for each injector unless guaranteed to flow the same as the others by their builder.

You should get a performance chart for the set to demonstrate their flow. If you don't, there's nothing that says they flow correctly, must less a matching set.

If someone over the years has mixed the injectors up without regard to the flow, the chances of a crappy running truck skyrockets.
 

Dirtclod

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Just for the hell of it I thought I'd do a continuity test with harness removed from the valve cover. In other words I checked the harness out of the engine on the work table. I read ohms between the center pin (ground) and each injector pin and also the the glow plug pins. I was reading those numbers that I was reading at first test with it in the valve cover. The connector was oily and had dirt or grime inside the connector on the outside plug. I could tell the grime was connecting the pins that were reading 12.5. After cleaning it with Cecil electrical cleaner everything read zero. I put the harness back in the truck plugged it back up and 2.9 all 4. In fact I could've just cleaned the connector and snapped it back in and it would've been fine. I'm going to try this on the passengers side and then recheck my readings. At this point I see no reasons why injectors are bad. The truck has fine except for lower boost than it used to but the wheel is bout shot. So it's time to fix that and do those upipes. I haven't had the chance to go get an iPad for diagnostic tool and haven't checked anything with a scan tool yet. But I'm going to get a mechanic over here before I button it all up to check codes. And do buzz test.
 

Dave_Nevada

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Just for the hell of it I thought I'd do a continuity test with harness removed from the valve cover. In other words I checked the harness out of the engine on the work table. I read ohms between the center pin (ground) and each injector pin and also the the glow plug pins. I was reading those numbers that I was reading at first test with it in the valve cover. The connector was oily and had dirt or grime inside the connector on the outside plug. I could tell the grime was connecting the pins that were reading 12.5. After cleaning it with Cecil electrical cleaner everything read zero. I put the harness back in the truck plugged it back up and 2.9 all 4. In fact I could've just cleaned the connector and snapped it back in and it would've been fine. I'm going to try this on the passengers side and then recheck my readings. At this point I see no reasons why injectors are bad. The truck has fine except for lower boost than it used to but the wheel is bout shot. So it's time to fix that and do those upipes. I haven't had the chance to go get an iPad for diagnostic tool and haven't checked anything with a scan tool yet. But I'm going to get a mechanic over here before I button it all up to check codes. And do buzz test.

Excellent, sounds like you solved the problem with the injectors. On your low boost, sometimes that can come from leaking up-pipes.
 
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Dirtclod

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Yes sir! Mine are leaking bad and turbo wheel looks like it's been chewing rocks. I'm On my way to get my upipes and I've been trying to decide on what I want to do about my turbo. I've kicked around the notion of the rebuild 360 upgrade and compressor wheel but I don't feel like I need a 1.0 housing. I will probably get a hydra chip or ts chip but still I don't want to push it all the time keep up boost. When I upgrade injectors I'm definitely going t4 setup. But not now. What's up with the Banks housing and wheel? It doesn't give its size just says instant torque and quick off the line? If I knew a little more about it or could at least read some reviews it might not be a bad route to take. GTP38r is not what I'm wanting. Too much expense right now for what I need and I'd like a .91 housing and I don't think that's an option. So the t4 later is what I want.
 

Dirtclod

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Btw I haven't pulled passenger side valve cover yet. I was removing stuff to get to it and decided to pull the engine harness and inspect it. It was horrible shape. This took some time. I found 3 wiresneeding repair. Several were questionable with stretched or mashed insulation.none broken so carefully wrapped everything up using new plastic flex and fiberglass heat wrap. Liquid tape at wire connections after crc cleaner. New grease at terminal points the best butt splices from supply house for new harnesses and repairs with liquid tape and heat shrink wrapped in fiberglass heat wrap. Couple new lugs for #6 power wire. Fresh Ford Blue paint for valve cover and doghouse. Planning on a closed circuit catch can ccv mod and maybe a coolant filter.
Now I'm sure I'll catch some flack but I did buy Dorman gaskets. The difference I see is the oem inside connector is removable the dorman is not. Which I like not removable. The ground are spliced outside the connector on the Forman which could be a problem but also could be on oem inside connector with 2 pin out to one. Tiewraps on dorman inside cover which I don't like plastic channel with weak ass clips on oem. The glo plug and injector clips are identical. The oem I removed one injector clip broke when released the lock. IMO mother one is all that good of a design. I'll stick with the 150$ pair and if I'm back in there in 6 months I'll report and take my slashes! Lol! Surely by then these injectors will be tired. 330k ain't bad if you ask me.
 

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I think I found my answer about 66 mm journal bearing. Too large but fine for a ball bearing. Lighter compressor wheel with upgraded 360 journal 60mm and ported housing. Wheel should spoil up quick for the 1.0 housing. Especially with a hydra or ts chip. The thing is whose ported housing?
 

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