Leaf spring question

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What is the factory weight rating on a factory 2002 F250 leaf spring? Looking at new ones and they have 3 choices for the front and rear. Rear options are 3000, 3300, 4400 lbs rating. Thanks
 

dsberman94

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What do you plan on doing with it? Heavy hauling or daily driving? it varied depending on tow packages.
 
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A little of both really. Week end warrior maybe? I haul our toys on a loaded up goose neck trailer, or go load up a buddy with a broke down truck, a medium sized tractor for bush hogging fields, etc...

I am fine with a factory spec spring what ever that is. The truck in question has a lift on it (bought it that way) and I am going to remove it and want to make sure I have at least factory spec, little heavier is fine buy def not less.
 

Calico5

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It all depends on your truck's GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating). This is the TOTAL amount your truck "should" weigh when fully loaded.

If you look at the Mfg's. tag (inside the driver-side door jamb) it will list GVWR, and the will also show the GAWR (Gross Axle Weight Rating) of both the front and rear axles (and by extension, the springs on those axles).

Info I found shows GVWR for an F250 is 8800 lbs., with the GAWR at 6084 lbs. This weight rating also takes into account the rear tires total weight rating/capacity. So if you have higher load-rating on your tires (greater than stock), you could theoretically carry a bit more weight.


Confused yet?


ON EDIT:
One more thing: If you ADD the front and rear axle weights (GAWR's) together, you would think it would equal the GVWR...? But it doesn't. The axle capacities are greater than the gross weight the truck can carry, because of the spring capacities, tire load ratings, etc.


~Al
 
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6.0 Tech

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Should have spring code on the door sticker. Should have xx/xx for front vs rear and side to side. Obviously the ex's will coincide with different letters, but depending, may actually be x's

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Ok thanks, I didn't get a chance to look yesterday at the tag. Will check it out this evening and see what it says.
 
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Ok I called the company in question and talked to there tech guy. He is saying there spring rated at 3000 is basically a stock superduty spring. There 3300 is just a little better in load handling (spring only, don't worry about tire load limit etc at this time), and then there 4400 is extreme load limit which he said is usually used by people who constantly carry heavy tool/job boxes or steel flat beds etc..

So with this info, and no more than I haul I am gonna just go with the regular 3000 springs. It's worked ok so far on the 99 I have been using to pull the loads.
 
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Does anyone have a pic of what factory 2002 leaf springs should look like? Trying to tell if these are factory springs with blocks are if the springs are part of it as well. Thinking about just removing the lift blocks and just keeping the springs (new U bolts of course)
 

rosspulliam

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6084 lbs is from the tire limit. 2002 came with LRE tires that were 3042 lbs each. Newer Es in the same size often have a higher limit than that.

Here's a quick pic of my 2002 spring. My truck is lowered and we took the overload off but I just ran out to the garage and snapped it quick. Does it show what you're after?

zKzdKqnsY99k1gA?width=660&height=495&cropmode=none.jpg
 
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I think we are the same since you removed the overloads. Here is a pic of mine, you can see the factory perch on the axle tube, the the factory load stop, then a lift block, then it looks like an extra or factory overload block and spring. Of course now I am realizing the arch of the springs could be different as well to make the lift.
IMG_5885%201_zpsccrjcdur.png
 

Ford005

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The larger block is the ‘lift kit’. The smaller block and upper overload springs are original. The leafs springs also look original...definitely not lift springs.


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The larger block is the ‘lift kit’. The smaller block and upper overload springs are original. The leafs springs also look original...definitely not lift springs.


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Great! That is exactly what I was hoping for! I now know I can get new u bolts, remove the "lift blocks" only and be back to stock height Now I need to figure out the front end. Will post a pic on that in a min so maybe you all can help me there as well. I have a feeling its factory as well with extra pieces of metal sort of like a leveling kit. Will prob have to remove couple at a time till it matches the rear so it will still work like a leveling kit when done.
 
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Those are lift springs... No simple solution... If you want stock height you need stock springs upfront. Also if you leave oversized tires on and return to stock height they might rub while turning. Also if you decide to leave it as is I would think about lift springs for the rear and not those 2 stacked blocks... Just my preference for safety but I tend to be on the super cautious almost paranoid side when it comes to suspension.

Thanks for the help. I am def bringing it back down for several reasons. Those blocks being one, not fitting under my goose neck trailers being another. I will be going with 305/55/20 (33x12x20) in place of the current 37x13.5x20. At least I will be saving some cash by not having to buy rear springs, just the new front ones. Got to replace the track bar bracket, track bar, sway bar bushing/arms, couple other odds and ends and I think I should be good to go. What about the shocks? I will prob need new ones of those as well? If so any good suggestions with out breaking the bank? Decent ride for a F250 but still good with an occasional load?
 

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That might have a hanger lift upfront as Well I can't really tell if it does. But I wouldn't be suprised if it had a 2 inch hanger lift up front. If you want a nice decent shock fox 2.0 if you want to save some cash and still have a good shock I say bilstein shocks just the standard yellow ones would do.. But this is just my opinion.. I haven't had any complaints about either shock.
And yes you will mostlikey need some all around.
 
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Any idea what the factory inches/length should be? I could measure and double check BUT thanks for pointing that out. I didn't even consider those.
 

EPA

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Front Extended around 23 inches

Front Collapsed around 14


Rear Extended around 30

Rear Collapsed around 18
 
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Front Extended around 23 inches

Front Collapsed around 14


Rear Extended around 30

Rear Collapsed around 18

What would be the length of a factory hanger? And are those mentioned measurements from center pin to center bolt hole eye?
 
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Does anyone still have the factory set up like this (minus the lift) that could get me factory measurements on the U-bolts so I could get new ones ordered? If your not sure how to measure u bolts here is a link explaining it, with pics ;)

Thank you!!

IMG_5885%201_zpsccrjcdur.png
[/QUOTE]
 

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