Need some help with a 2012 to 2015 turbo swap

EskimoPie

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Hey guys. I'm not hard-core like most of the folks that hang out overe here on PSA. I usually hang out over at the .org. I'm not getting much response over there though. I'm in the middle of my Midwest Diesel premium kit upgrade and I'd REALLY appreciate it if some of the big brains over here could go read my post and chime in at me.

I apologize if this is in bad form to cross post across the two sites, but my truck is in pieces and I'm just looking for a little help from someone who's walked this road already.

http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/ge.../1313266-turbo-just-croaked.html#post15782330

Thanks!
 

T_W6.7

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Kind of bad practice I think, but I read it and the exhaust manifold isn't hard, there is a lot of oil in there, not sure of the miles on your truck, just make sure you keep everything very clean, and clean everything when you're putting it together, there's some band clamps that kind of sucked when I did my swap. Just keep on chugging along, if it's the new 2017 pedestal it will get oil that way.
 

Justinlw

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I read a little bit of what you’ve posted over there, and I’m not sure what you’re looking for. The oil in the turbo looks like CCV residue, maybe a little internal leak, but you’re replacing it.

Your oil leak dripping down the bell housing sounds too light to be leaking from a pressurized line, so most likely on the drain side which you’re also replacing with the new pedestal/turbo.

Exhaust Manifold isn’t that bad. The truck is parked, you should be soaking ALL of the bolts with PB or similar to help with removal when you get there.

Any questions about the kit itself, Midwest has pretty good support and you can call them with questions also.

Edit: About the tuning, call or email GH and let them know you swapped the turbo, they’ll send you an updated file.

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T_W6.7

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only thing that I fought was the "up pipes" the little clamps back behind the turbo and the aftermarket down pipe seemed to be a bit tricky, but not bad overall, patience ended up prevailing in those situations.
 

ingrahams

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like stated above, just post your questions here.

I did the midwest retrofit on my 2011 a few months ago, passenger exhaust manifold, up-pipes and downpipe are the major pieces that need to be changed other than the lower intake manifold. just make sure you torque everything back to spec, can't remember where I found the torque specs but it was either on this forum or on google.

Pull the passenger tire and inner fender for the downpipe install and access to the v-bands. Other than that it's popping the v-bands off and getting them re positioned that takes some time. If you dont have one already get a top side creeper, makes things 100% easier.
 

sootie

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i read your other thread and cant seem to pick out definite questions. Sounds more like you are scared of the job and are looking for someone to hold your hand when you do it.

Its jut a matter of replacing the necessary parts to accommodate the new turbo. Whatever that oil leak was in the valley will be fixed by the swap. It could only be pedestal gasket or oil feed line-both of which will be addressed with the swap.

The oil in the turbo inlet is due to the excessive crank case vent these motors have. Nature of the beast. If you dont like it, reroute the ccv to the exhaust, to atmosphere or or to a catch can setup and back to the intake.

Tuning will need to be adjusted or you will get a CEL. Most likely turbo performance and high intake air temp. Tunes will also help optimize the turbo as well so you get the most possible out of the setup.

You will be replacing the coolant feed line, lower intake manifold, passenger exhaust manifold, the full downpipe, both up pipes, and the turbo/pedestal setup.

kudos to you for doing it cab on-i couldn't imagine that.
 

dsmracing1

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WHS on everything ^^^

Yes, doing the swap with cab on is an adventure of its own and showering for the week after tends to sting on the arms lol.
 

gotchadollar

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Cab on it takes 3-1/2 to 4hrs start to finish, that’s If you know what needs to come apart and the right tools.
I’ve had people buy the kits and install themselves and it takes 8-12 hours.
 

EskimoPie

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Thanks for all the comments guys. Got basically zero feedback over on ps.org.

Yes, fore arms are all scraped up from reaching up the fender well. Yes, chest is sore from laying on the engine. Yes, I probably was looking for a little hand holding. Appreciate the advice.

I was concerned looking at the passenger exhaust manifold that I was going to have to pull up all the coolant and other lines at the front of the motor, turns out the manifold was an easy R&R after the turbo was out.

I was on cloud nine, thinking things were going great. Got the old turbo out, manifold swapped, new up pipes in, new turbo back in... Then I got underneath and tried to connect the drivers side up pipe to the back of the turbo. No go. I've got about a half centimeter gap there and for the life of me, I can't get the new V-band clamp on. I've had the turbo in and out 4 times now, taken off the up pipe and remounted it. Same problem.

At this point I'm convincing myself the up-pipe is out of tolerance although I know how improbable that is.

This is when I was feeling like there was a light at the end of the tunnel:

1f4ac09b63183886ba8bcccf554f6708.jpg


This is what I'm beating my head against:

8d0b40b35ee57650fa8b96dd66e09364.jpg


I've tried ratchet straps, lifting the up-pipe up, tried wiggling the turbo and completely R&Ring everything. Basically just feels like the pipe was built a little too short. Drivers side manifold never came off and I can't believe the turbo is out of tolerance. I can't flex the expansion joint enough to get the clamp to close.

Help.


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sootie

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If you have removed the turbo that many times and torqued the bolts each time, I wouldn't trust the integrity of the gasket anymore.

No way the up pipe was built out of tolerance. Every one I have done hasn't lined up perfectly and has required flexing it to mate up.

One thing to try is loosening the three nuts that hold the up pipe to the manifold. Get your v-bands lined up and then tighten the nuts.
 
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EskimoPie

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No, only torqued the pedestal bolts once. Although I nicked some of the black gasket material in the R&Rs and I'll probably order another pedestal gasket just to be sure. It was a mess under there and I don't want to be dealing with that again.

One thing that bothered me a bit, was twice in calls to Midwest Diesel, they said the only thing that needs to really follow torque values is the pedestal/turbo assembly which they already did. Everything else is OK to wing it. I'm shocked they said that repeatedly. Especially with the exhaust manifold studs.
 

gotchadollar

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Loosen the 3 nuts holding that pipe like sootie said. Get your clamp on and snug it. Tighten the 3 nuts and then tighten your V band and you should have no issues. Replace the Turbo pedastool gasket if you have torqued the turbo. They are a one time use gasket. They are cheap for a big job.
 

gotchadollar

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I would also remove the passenger up pipe to gain access to the down pipe clamp and the install of the down pipe.
 

F150orelse

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When you get everything together put a little simple green or total awesome under that hood. Your doing good so far but like my man said earlier you might want to replace that pedestal gasket or you’ll be doing this all over again.
 

EskimoPie

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Haven't been able to get back at this yet, but I hope to this weekend. I ordered a new up-pipe and pedestal gasket from Midwest. I agree the pipe is a low probability, but it's only $60 compared to the $3k already spent, I'm happy to spend it to try and ease this fit. I also ordered a PCV ****** from NoLimit to install this weekend also. Figure I could use the extra room around the right side of the turbo to get to those exhaust manifold bolts and I hated how much oil was in that turbo.
 

EskimoPie

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Finally completed the install. I shot-gunned my approach to the up-pipe. Ordered a new pipe from Midwest, did a PCV removal kit to enable access to the exhaust manifold with the turbo installed, and left the manifold bolts loose after I put the turbo in place. With all of that, I was easily able to get the clamp around the up-pipe.

Got it all put back together, very nervously turned that key and she fired right up! Very rough idle for the first 5-10 seconds, but it smoothed out quickly. Was talking to another diesel owner and he said he experienced the same thing after swapping turbos. I'm guessing just takes time to get some oil up in it for the first time.

Thanks for all the great advice guys. Happy to be back in my truck!

Installing updated Tyrant tunes now. Can't wait to try them out!
 

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