Time to do injectors

Gonna take a break from this till my obd2 WiFi connector comes in. Should be a couple days. Thanks everyone for the help and advice but like you guys suggest I need live data to be sure what’s going on.

Ok guys I ordered a lelink obd2 Bluetooth adapter and I downloaded obdfusion and engine link apps for iOS ipad. I ended up ******** engine link and I can’t get the device to connect to the truck. It will connect to the connector then click noise under the dash and then no connect. It works fine with my s10. I’ve checked the obd2 port and all is ok. Wts light comes on and goes off. I do have one battery disconnected so that might be why.

Not likely if the OBD port has 12V it could care less how many batteries are connected in parallel. IOS apps are flaky from what I have read but I dont know only stick with Android myslef

Ok according to diagrams I’ve found for OBD there should be 8 connections. I only have 7 connections. As far as colors go according to the diagram I’m going by everything matches to what I have except the the missing pin out that I have is a yellow/ light blue wire and the diagram I’m going by calls for tan/orange. This is pin no. 2 spc bus+

Just a little update on this project. Today I tried using the lelink adapter on a 96 f-150 and wouldn’t read eco either. So that’s somewhat good news. The new adapter should be here tomorrow and the company confirmed it is compatible to pulswidth modulation obd2 plug for Ford. So tomorrow I should be able to read live data. Today I did try cranking it a few times. Still no smoke while cranking. Rpms are reading still,wts light comes on and goes off like normal and checked oil rails and they are still full and so is the hpop reservoir. I remember once when the idm went bad the reservoir was empty. Still yet it just seems that there’s no power going to injectors. My meter shot it’s wad today so I’ll go get one tomorrow and I’ll check some readings for idm to see if there is power there. Maybe ohm out the pins on the plug just to see if all is well. Possibly those dorman harnesses might be going to haunt me! Anyways it’s been a crazy weekend. The s10 locked in park yesterday and today the old cub cadet had front pto clutch pulls come apart. Batting a 1000 this weekend guys! Lol! Hell might as well laugh shi£ happens don’t it?

Stop opening up the hoop lines. I thought I had issues. Just charge the batteries and then put another vehicle with jumper cables and keep cranking. Mine did not smoke until it fired up.

And now the truth comes out....
Probably the dorman UVCH........

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79jasper said:

And now the truth comes out....
Probably the dorman UVCH........

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Click to expand...

I covered that in the thread that led to this one. Besides wiring harness checks out ok.

I can't keep up with your 12 threads on the same topic....

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A lil update here. Code reader says pcm is not responding. I’ve got wts light turns off like normal,sel comes on and goes off like normal,rpms while cranking. Checked the 3 relays under the hood fuse box all are good fuses good with power going through all of them. Relays under dash behind the radio are good 5 amp fuse for pcm and cig lighter is good. So all this and pcm is bad? I even switched another pcm that has a bad circuit but the truck would run just had the limp mode,cruise control,transmission pressure switch etc.... was bad but would crank and run and read diagnostic. The only thing I haven’t checked is the pcm diode under the hood fuse box.

You know how to check the diode, right. Ohm meter, remove the diode. Should show open when read in one direction, short when read in the other direction.

Yea just went and bought one anyways. The only thing I’ve had time to do since I got the diode was check for continuity on the pcm female connector. I’m really not sure if I did it right but put one lead on the power input port and I just checked for continuity on every hole just to see if there is short and I didn’t find anything. If pin no.103&77 are grounds for the pcm I didn’t get continuity between the battery ground hooked up and those pins. Shouldn’t that be connected?

Did you check for corroded PCM pins?

Billy T.
[email protected]

Pins are good. I just checked resistance between #4 pin and chassis ground on the obd2 connector it reads 3.3 ohms. Shouldn’t it be 0? No resistance between pin 5 and chassis ground. Also if I check pin 16 with red lead and pin 4 & pin 5 I get 12.5 volts. Btw that’s with koeo (key on engine off) didn’t want confusion. What I’m looking at pin 5 should be sensor ground and I don’t think I should be reading volts on 16 using that for ground. Correct me if I’m wrong.

Sorry key off engine off on that test just to get it right

I also have read threads all over the internet and everyone says we should have 8 pins. I only have 7 pins. There is an extra wire but not hooked up at either connector. I’ve check with a couple other guys around here and they also have 7 pins with an extra wire. Is that something that needs to be adressed?

I just realized something. I forgot I have a 3rd pcm. The one I checked earlier today when I replaced the one I’ve been running is definitely a bad one. I just found the other one that I was running before. It had a bad circuit but would read codes,crank and start it would go into limp mode,no glo plugs,cruise.... but it should work. I’ll have to see if I can borrow the scanner agin.

I haven’t been able to hook up a scanner to it yet but for some reason I had a blown fuse under the dash. 3rd fuse down 20 amp. I don’t have the owners manual or diagram except what I can look up on the internet but the best description I can find it says it’s the data link connector/cigar lighter. So I replaced the fuse and #3 relay clicks receiving power. On the same diagram it says this is the horn relay. But a different fuse pos for the Horn. I pull the fuse and check power to data link on 16 I have 12.5 volts. So I guess this isn’t the best diagram. Does anyone have a fuse box diagram for a 2001 Ford F-250? Or where I can get one?

Well the past 2 days I’ve been enjoying a nice toothache,my wisdom teeth are trying to push the rest of of my teeth out of my mouth!:cursing:
For some reason I’m getting an arc when I connect my batteries. I always connect hot first and then the grounds. Doesn’t sent matter which ground I hook up first it will arc pretty good. I took the alt off and had it tested and it’s not putting out any dc volts. Everything else passed but borderline. Going to Napa and get a new one today. Also going to take grounds loose and inspect and clean them up. I’m also going to replace the alt hot wire from the starter solenoid and check the inline fuses. After all the original problem was the alt wire came off and arched to ground. I thought all that was good since it was running all was working as it should but obviously not. Gonna check all the wires on the battery circuit to the pdb. Also looking into replacing all the + battery leads. I’m sure that low voltage and shorts or not adequate grounds will ruin the idm and possibly inj solenoids.

Well boys it’s been a min since I’ve posted here but thought I’d report. I’ve had it a diesel shop for the past couple months and come to find out I left a plug in hpop. He’s got it all back together. No codes,2000lbs hpo,rpms while cranking,unplug icp no results,smokes while cranking,voltage is good like 12.8-13.4volts. Injectors buzz good.wts light comes on,ses light comes on so all is normal. I gave him permission just a few min ago to shoot it with ether. Any other suggestions?