AKF250 Alaska Build - (650-700HP BUILD)

akf250

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Summer Car

No body mentioned the VW bug in the photo, they are summer cars in Alaska I
believe.. Way too cold to run them and freezing inside because they dont build enough
heat. I was always surprised that here were so few of them up there when they used
to be everywhere in the lower 48. Maybe there is something you do to run it
at -40?

I definitely do not drive it in the winter except to drift around for fun in parking lots. Its a summer cruiser that I've been rebuilding for fun.

The previous owner had the whole front insulated and a pan heater on it but f that. They actually make a gas fired heater option for them which is scary to think about.
 

akf250

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KILL DEVIL DIESEL MOTORSPORTS

So I pulled the trigger on the Kill Devil Diesel Motorsports O-Ringed heads.

I also decided to do a Stage 2 cam, performance springs, and performance push rods to compliment.

Shout out to Kill Devil Diesel Motorsports for the great response and discussion on these items.

Once they arrive in Alaska I can get the top end back together.


Any advice or forewarning on doing cams in a 6.4L or is it pretty straight forward?

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Roccafellas

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If you take the crank adaptor off the torque spec for the bolts are the same ones as the front damper pulley 50 foot-pounds then 90° angle
Oh and you’ll need new flywheel bolts crank adapter bolts and damper bolts as there all one time use

Can’t find that in a manual i had to fight with a tech in Texas to release that torque spec, ford wants you taking bedplate and crank off to change cam
Many have done it without.


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akf250

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ADDING TWIN PUMPS LATER

I have the High Power Jr's, Fuel Bowl ******, and I'm not planning on doing twin pumps right now. I would like to potentially someday but just not right now. Any way to get injectors in now and do pumps later?

Is a modified modified K16/industrial II just not worth the risk of grenading? Any success stories out there? Stick to stock fuel, keep it simple, and do surrounding mods to reach 700HP?

Here's some info I found around the forum:

"Nozzles: With a single stock HPFP, the stock nozzles are basically maxing out the capabilities of the HPFP. If you decide to upgrade to a larger nozzle (even just 15% nozzles), you will have to modify the HP system or cut the PW to maintain RP at WOT on race tune (PW of 2.2 to 2.3). The only options available for modifying the HP system are a modded K16 or dual fuelers. The only modded K16 that is available is made by Industrial (II) and it is notorious for grenading and taking out the injectors, rails, etc. when it does."

" I can speak from experience that when I had over 90k on my 2008 truck It did not maintain on *******s 310 tune, with stock nozzles. Rykan I know there have been discussions about Eric's truck before, but his seems to be like the only one that could do it. The other guy that claimed to maintain eventually came back after realizing his truck did not maintain. IMO it's not worth the effort or money for the miniscule gains, potential for draining the rail on a stock hpfp setup, and potential for premature pump failure due constant high duty cycles and draining the rails. You can put them in and dial the pulse width back, but what's the point of putting nozzles in just to dial it back?

You're better off doing a modified pump or duals and running 30% if you want to run a 67fmw or 371."
 

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sootie

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Not worth the effort to do nozzles now and pumps later. Biggest you could run with pulsewidth pulled waaaaaaaay back is 15% which is useless (way too small) once you go dual pumps.

dont do a modded single pump, unreliable as heck.

leave the nozzles stock if you arent doing dual pumps. If you go dual pumps, dont do nozzles less than 60% over or its a waste of resources. The parasitic loss of running the second pump is hardly overcome with 15 or 30 over injectors.
 

akf250

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Pumps

Not worth the effort to do nozzles now and pumps later. Biggest you could run with pulsewidth pulled waaaaaaaay back is 15% which is useless (way too small) once you go dual pumps.

dont do a modded single pump, unreliable as heck.

leave the nozzles stock if you arent doing dual pumps. If you go dual pumps, dont do nozzles less than 60% over or its a waste of resources. The parasitic loss of running the second pump is hardly overcome with 15 or 30 over injectors.

Thanks for confirmation on cost benefit on injector sizes Sootie
 

akf250

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Stage 2 Cam Upgrade

So I decided to do a stage 2 cam while I'm this far in and I'm a little freaked out I'm gonna have to get a lot more technical than I would have liked.

Can someone please explain to me the difficulties of a cam swap in a 6.4?

I understand that if marked properly the crank does not need to be touched.

What are the steps of a swap?

If I'm replacing the front cover, will I be right there to swap? Does the transmission have to be dropped?

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Roccafellas

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So I decided to do a stage 2 cam while I'm this far in and I'm a little freaked out I'm gonna have to get a lot more technical than I would have liked.



Can someone please explain to me the difficulties of a cam swap in a 6.4?



I understand that if marked properly the crank does not need to be touched.



What are the steps of a swap?



If I'm replacing the front cover, will I be right there to swap? Does the transmission have to be dropped?



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Cam comes out the rear.. so you’ll need the engine out..and the transmission for sure has to be out of the way... you have to remove the rear cover, And it’s not the crank you mark it’s the crank adapter.


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Still not sure about where to go on these items

Would like to see if we can do anything for you don't be afraid to give the shop a call and ask for Brenton I can see what we can do for you and answer the questions on what we experience with these product and also head options as well if you are looking for more info.

IDK What computer GLITCH i just had lol but it only had a few posts on this the all the sudden 3 pages lol well you probably have what you need lol but idk what happened on my end here lol
 
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akf250

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Removing Front Cover

Any tips on removing the front cover? I've pried around most edges multiple times around but cannot get anything to budge.
 

kleake

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Likely the front seal is holding you up. Gotta fight the sleeve off the crank shaft first. It can be a pain.

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akf250

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Oil Dump

Yep, been focusing on the edges of the oil dump, no luck.

Light heat to loosen up the sealant? I wouldn't blast it, I was thinking of trying getting it hot enough so you could still touch it for a few seconds.
 

kleake

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Sounds like you are on the right track. You will be replacing the seal anyway, so you can abuse it a little to get it off just don't scratch up the crank.

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Roccafellas

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Yep, been focusing on the edges of the oil dump, no luck.

Light heat to loosen up the sealant? I wouldn't blast it, I was thinking of trying getting it hot enough so you could still touch it for a few seconds.



Few hammer strikes with a chisel it’ll spin right off.


https://youtu.be/9Flrj4MM29g

Finally got it running now, with that stage 1 cam etc. Love these 6.4’s man!


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akf250

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Dual Alternators

Anyone have any experience with the dual alternator setup for 6.4l's?

Pretty straight forward? Is the other alternator plug already built into the harness?

I have the service bulletin and part numbers for the upper alternator and longer serpentine belt.

Can I wait til after startup til' I can drive it over to the dealer for a ECU flash?

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Roccafellas

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Sounds great! Can definitely tell the difference in the exhaust note with that cam. Cant wait!



Hell yeah thanks man! that and the 6.0 mani’s changed it completely. In that video the vgt was off. Vanes just open, not moving no matter what the throttle position due to the egrt sensor being unplugged, I now have it plugged in, at idle sounds no different, but at 2000rpm sounds a bit different i’ll post a better vid soon.

Good-luck with your build man I’m subscribed!


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sootie

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You will need to turn with dual alternator function on with ids
 

akf250

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Progress

Hell yeah thanks man! that and the 6.0 mani’s changed it completely. In that video the vgt was off. Vanes just open, not moving no matter what the throttle position due to the egrt sensor being unplugged, I now have it plugged in, at idle sounds no different, but at 2000rpm sounds a bit different i’ll post a better vid soon.

Good-luck with your build man I’m subscribed!


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Ya keep the videos coming. The more motivation the better!

Got words that my new O-ringed heads got machined today and will be assembled tomorrow, hopefully ship next week. Front cover removal and surface cleaning until the weekend.
 

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