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Old 09-07-2011, 04:54 PM
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Default ARP Headstud Install How-To

The very first thing I want to point out is this. THERE ARE 2 LENGTHS!! Nowhere will you be told about this. The shorter studs are to be put directly above the injectors. This is so the injector hold downs do not contact the stud. Remember this!!

First you will want to remove the injectors and the rocker arm assemblies. Then remove the upper injector hold down bolts using a 5/16 socket.


If you are doing this in truck and without breaking the head gasket, I have a couple pointers.

While doing the rear bolts you will need to unbolt the motor mounts and use a jack with a piece of 2x4 to jack up one side of the motor. This will rotate the motor enough to get the bolt out and the stud in. Once the mount nuts are off, place one end of the 2x4 (vertically) on the exhaust manifold. Then put a jack under the other end. Jack it up until the bell housing ALMOST contacts the body.

You will want to do this in sequence. One bolt out, one stud in, bolt comes out, stud goes in, etc. Also do it in a couple stages. Go to 90# the first torque until you get all the studs in. Then go back and retorque to 110#. On the third torque go to 125#. Use the torque pattern on the left for the first two torques. Use the pattern on the right for the last torque. Torque the stud to 90# before moving on.


Ok. Now to the bolts. I can't remember the socket size but I think it was a 5/8. You will definitely want to use a craftsman 1/2" drive for this. You may also want to use a cheater. If not, you're more of a man than I!


Once broke loose, they will come right out very easily. Pull the bolt.


Coat the stud you are putting in with plenty of torque compound on both ends. It is provided when you buy the studs for a reason.


Use an allen wrench to screw the stud in. Just go hand snug.



Now put the washer and nut on provided in the box of studs. (Sorry its upside down. Stupid phone.)


Tighten using the torque specs I provided above.

Now replace everything removed for this job. Including but not limited to motor mounts, injectors, rocker arms, valve cover, harness plug, and intercooler piping.

Enjoy the added security of having studs!!!!
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Last edited by vanderchevy18; 09-07-2011 at 04:57 PM.
  #2  
Old 09-07-2011, 07:03 PM
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Nice write up! Only thing I could add is "repeat every 10k miles for 6.0 owners".
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Old 09-07-2011, 07:47 PM
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I forgot to add something. To get the passenger bolts done you'll need to remove the blower box. Its just a bunch of little (I think 9/32) bolts all the way around it. You'll also need to remove the a/c compressor and alternator and bracket.
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99.5 CCSB 4x4- 12.68@105.6mph (now a cclb dually hauler)
E99 F-350 CCLB 4x4- stage 1's, srp-1, etc.
2003 6.0 Excursion Eddie Bauer 4x4- Tuned, ******d, Bagged, etc.
79 F-100 7.3 Powerstroke race truck - 10.78@129.87
1980 Jeep CJ7 with Mercedes diesel swap
1978 Bronco 08 axles, 7.3 powerstroke, zf5
  #4  
Old 09-08-2011, 02:10 AM
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Good write up, much better than pulling the cab to install to!
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Old 09-08-2011, 05:37 AM
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One thing to add... Before getting to far past the short studs above the injectors, make sure the injector hold down clears it.

I put an engine together last winter, TQ'd everything down on the heads, moved on to other things, and the last thing I was doing before swinging the engine in was injectors.

The hold down's didn't clear on a couple studs so I was goin back through them all.
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Old 09-08-2011, 06:09 AM
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Nice write up that im sure will help a few people on the fences about being scared to install them. Reminds me of how scared i was the first time i did injectors, but found a good write up and did them with no issues.
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  #7  
Old 09-08-2011, 06:53 AM
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Nice write-up again!
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  #8  
Old 09-08-2011, 10:22 AM
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I down know about the different sized studs when I did mine. Rude awakening for sure. My over $2,000 set of injectors now have 5 of them with a little bit ground off because of the studs. Not much. Just enough to clear. Wont hurt anything.
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99.5 CCSB 4x4- 12.68@105.6mph (now a cclb dually hauler)
E99 F-350 CCLB 4x4- stage 1's, srp-1, etc.
2003 6.0 Excursion Eddie Bauer 4x4- Tuned, ******d, Bagged, etc.
79 F-100 7.3 Powerstroke race truck - 10.78@129.87
1980 Jeep CJ7 with Mercedes diesel swap
1978 Bronco 08 axles, 7.3 powerstroke, zf5
  #9  
Old 02-01-2012, 12:38 PM
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The torque specs and stages you provided is what everyone is using? I read a few posts of loosing and re torquing also torquing past 125 which voids ARPs warranty. Just looking for opinions. Nice write up BTW!
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  #10  
Old 02-01-2012, 01:11 PM
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Great write up man, I am going to be using this soon because I know my ol OBS will be needing them once I get done talking to irate
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