Big Block Ford build

ncollins64

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Ok guys I may need some help or guidance. Im in the process of building a new engine for my ford prostock 4wd truck. I already have the tube chassis, tilt body, profab boxes, profab axles etc. I hurt the old engine and im going back with an all new engine.
I already have a new set of trick flow A460 heads being built and I just bought a new eliminator premire block. Heres the help im needing, I need to have a crank, rods, and pistons specd out. My cubic inch limit is 485 and im going with a 4.700 bore. Before Bryant can build a crank he needs to know stroke, rod length, wrist pin diameter and it will have a 429 boss snout. Any help is appreciated.
 

Outlaw Bill

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Ok guys I may need some help or guidance. Im in the process of building a new engine for my ford prostock 4wd truck. I already have the tube chassis, tilt body, profab boxes, profab axles etc. I hurt the old engine and im going back with an all new engine.
I already have a new set of trick flow A460 heads being built and I just bought a new eliminator premire block. Heres the help im needing, I need to have a crank, rods, and pistons specd out. My cubic inch limit is 485 and im going with a 4.700 bore. Before Bryant can build a crank he needs to know stroke, rod length, wrist pin diameter and it will have a 429 boss snout. Any help is appreciated.
Make sure you have the bores sonic checked first and make sure there is no core shift. As for the stroke at 4.700 bore and 485 c.i.d that results in a 3.494 stroke. Sort of short stroke for 10.320 deck height plus I'm guessing its a pulling truck. You could always drop back to 4.600-4.650 bore and add more stroke since the A460 heads will not need that much bore. You can adjust the bore and stroke to target a certain rpm range and to either make it more narrow and peaky or a slightly broader rpm range. Any other rules or is it open with sheet metal intake and etc?
 
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ncollins64

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Make sure you have the bores sonic checked first and make sure there is no core shift. As for the stroke at 4.700 bore and 485 c.i.d that results in a 3.494 stroke. Sort of short stroke for 10.320 deck height plus I'm guessing its a pulling truck. You could always drop back to 4.600-4.650 bore and add more stroke since the A460 heads will not need that much bore. You can adjust the bore and stroke to target a certain rpm range and to either make it more narrow and peaky or a slightly broader rpm range. Any other rules or is it open with sheet metal intake and etc?
Thanks for the info. It is a pull truck too. I just checked and the block says its a nominal 10.315 height. Of course I have to get final machining done. I am going for a big bore short stroke engine too. Any idea how id go about finding the rod length, wrist pin diameter or spec the pistons?

The cam housing bores are machined to 2.500 accepting 54mm roller cam bearings. So ill be going back with a big lift billet cam probably from jon kaase.
 

ncollins64

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No tunnel rams or sheet metal intakes, single 4bbl carb. I already have the eliminator intake with a 2500+ cfm scott perkins carb. No billet blocks. The last setup I had with a stock block and crank should've never lasted as long as it did, but I was turning it past 10k often. Id like to be able to twist it between 9500-10500 on any given track. I have several sets of gears for the profab to kinda dial in specific tracks and control my rpms. Most all other chevys in the class are only touching low to mid 9s. Ill try and post up some pics later today of the whole truck setup.
 
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Outlaw Bill

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Thanks for the info. It is a pull truck too. I just checked and the block says its a nominal 10.315 height. Of course I have to get final machining done. I am going for a big bore short stroke engine too. Any idea how id go about finding the rod length, wrist pin diameter or spec the pistons?

The cam housing bores are machined to 2.500 accepting 54mm roller cam bearings. So ill be going back with a big lift billet cam probably from jon kaase.
Depends on the piston compression height but for sure use thick wall wrist pins so they don't flex plus no light weight cranks. Make sure its all strong and no flexy flier stuff. The 54mm cam core will limit lift so keep that in mind.
 

ncollins64

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Ill talk to Jon about a cam. I know he was talking before about doing a high lift cam close to .950 lift so ill have to ask. Ill be going with a custom Bryant crank so im not cheaping out on anything for this build. Would you go a bit loose or tight on the tolerances? Jim at Bryant motorsports told me today that normally they finish the rod journals to 2.1985 and the mains to 2.7475 but can loosen or tighten as needed. Who should I talk to about rods and pistons? I could probably have someone build this but id like to tackle it at least once since I've built a few cummins and powerstroke engines.
 
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ncollins64

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I haven't checked a stock cam, what is the size of the stock cam bearings? I got some more info and can always bore the cam journals larger depending on the cam I choose to run.
 

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Ill talk to Jon about a cam. I know he was talking before about doing a high lift cam close to .950 lift so ill have to ask. Ill be going with a custom Bryant crank so im not cheaping out on anything for this build. Would you go a bit loose or tight on the tolerances? Jim at Bryant motorsports told me today that normally they finish the rod journals to 2.1985 and the mains to 2.7475 but can loosen or tighten as needed. Who should I talk to about rods and pistons? I could probably have someone build this but id like to tackle it at least once since I've built a few cummins and powerstroke engines.

Personally, I'd call Diamond for the pistons. They should be able to help you select the wrist pins. Pretty sure they can point you in the right direction for rods as well.
 

ncollins64

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Personally, I'd call Diamond for the pistons. They should be able to help you select the wrist pins. Pretty sure they can point you in the right direction for rods as well.
I forgot this but I’m seeing mixed opinions on rods and pistons. I’m seeing both steel and aluminum pistons and billet steel and aluminum rods. My last setup was swinging aluminum rods and there still perfect even though I ran the whole setup harder than I should’ve, 9500-10200 every hook. I would like to tear the top end down after each season to freshen things up and go through the entire engine every other season just like I’ve done in the past. With that in mind I run valves after each hook and change oil and filters every 3-4 hooks. I have to call diamond and JE about pistons and I’ll see what people’s opinions are on the rods running big rpms. It may come down to having to order piston blanks and having a shop like Blue Perf, Carroll Carter Motorsports or even Jon Kaase machine them for each cylinder.
 

PDT1081

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I forgot this but I’m seeing mixed opinions on rods and pistons. I’m seeing both steel and aluminum pistons and billet steel and aluminum rods. My last setup was swinging aluminum rods and there still perfect even though I ran the whole setup harder than I should’ve, 9500-10200 every hook. I would like to tear the top end down after each season to freshen things up and go through the entire engine every other season just like I’ve done in the past. With that in mind I run valves after each hook and change oil and filters every 3-4 hooks. I have to call diamond and JE about pistons and I’ll see what people’s opinions are on the rods running big rpms. It may come down to having to order piston blanks and having a shop like Blue Perf, Carroll Carter Motorsports or even Jon Kaase machine them for each cylinder.

There's no reason you shouldn't be able to do the same with this engine. You can send your head to Diamond and they will scan it and make custom pistons specifically for you if an off the shelf piston won't work. Wiseco is another option as well.
 

Black AOD

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Nate asked me to post these for him.

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Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
 

ncollins64

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Thanks Andrew for posting those. I thought it might help for people to see what it is.

Thanks zeb. The original owner had it for years, and the first time I seen it pull was back in 05. I told the owner then if he ever sold it I wanted it. As a 18 year old kid I figured he just brushed it off but then the fall of 2017 he contacted me and said it’s for sale only to me. He said his dad passed and it was their thing and he wanted away from it. I pulled the original engine it had but now it’s time to go back with a new engine.
 

Zeb

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Thanks Andrew for posting those. I thought it might help for people to see what it is.

Thanks zeb. The original owner had it for years, and the first time I seen it pull was back in 05. I told the owner then if he ever sold it I wanted it. As a 18 year old kid I figured he just brushed it off but then the fall of 2017 he contacted me and said it’s for sale only to me. He said his dad passed and it was their thing and he wanted away from it. I pulled the original engine it had but now it’s time to go back with a new engine.

It is fun to see stuff people built from scratch, but I love when something has a good back story like this.
 

ncollins64

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It is fun to see stuff people built from scratch, but I love when something has a good back story like this.
I made the original owner one promise and it’s that I won’t change up the paint scheme or the name. It’s a 10x national points champ also so it has some history. He didn’t cheap out on any parts he put in it that’s for sure.
 

ncollins64

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Nice work, looks like a beast!
Thanks it is rowdy. I’ll be sure to post pics and progress as it comes. I’m paying Jon Kaase a visit when I get home from offshore this week. He says he might have a few plans for it. Other than that it’ll just be getting fresh cut tires, a spare set of tires and wheels and some polishing. Other than that it’s ready to hook with a new engine.
 

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