New Harley Build Advice Needed

6.0 Tech said:

You can, but with the way those look like they're worn, its only gonna be a matter of time fore they catastrophically fail.

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So the block I bought was used and they matched the used block with my bedplate from original engine.. i’m oretty sure.. so that could be a cause too?

Damn. Yeah if not idk what to do.. i really don’t think they line hone and we have one machine shop in town...


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Roccafellas said:

So the block I bought was used and they matched the used block with my bedplate from original engine.. i’m oretty sure.. so that could be a cause too?

Damn. Yeah if not idk what to do.. i really don’t think they line hone and we have one machine shop in town...


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Switching bedplates to blocks is most likely the issue. They are align bored from the factory to make sure theyre straight, otherwise you have issues like this...

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100% that is the issue. Blocks and bedplates are a matched set, line bored with fasteners torqued.

A place that calls itself a shop actually did that? Smh

sootie said:

100% that is the issue. Blocks and bedplates are a matched set, line bored with fasteners torqued.

A place that calls itself a shop actually did that? Smh

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I remembered last night when I brought that block in they said “the crank has to stay with the block” I was wrong my apologies. No it is the same block and same crank and bedplate I couldnt remember if I just bought a used block or block and bedplate and crank.

I actually found my old crank and bedplate last night.

Sorry.


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Had the build in pause for a bit, just waiting on parts
Have the engine ready to go in. And put the H11s on,
I’ll lift it into the cab then install the heads my cherry picker doesn’t have the strength to roll on my lock stone with that much weight.

Is a 1/2” torque wrench suitable for the head torque? Or do people use 3/4”?

I had it on pause cause I bought a new 8” lift kit and parts are missing
So I painted the engine bay and front frame and wanted to install the lift first since it’s easier to access the pitman arm and the trac bar bracket etc..


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Not messing around with oil leaks this time lol


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1/2" tq wrench is fine. Be very careful of the torque or you will be replacing the block in less than a month.

sootie said:

1/2" tq wrench is fine. Be very careful of the torque or you will be replacing the block in less than a month.

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Thank you, my install sheet says something like torque it to 90 and untorque like 3 times then go 175 and finally 225.
Correct? Per my A1 technologies sheet.


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Roccafellas said:

Thank you, my install sheet says something like torque it to 90 and untorque like 3 times then go 175 and finally 225.
Correct? Per my A1 technologies sheet.


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100% follow the directions and before starting get your torque wrench tested for accuracy. Every snap on truck has a tester.

whs^ also clean the holes out well, and use the provided lube in the quantity they specify. Almost as important as having an in spec tq wrench.

White_monster said:

100% follow the directions and before starting get your torque wrench tested for accuracy. Every snap on truck has a tester.

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Awesome thanks Shane.
I literally just bought a brand new torque wrench a week or so ago for this job.

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sootie said:

whs^ also clean the holes out well, and use the provided lube in the quantity they specify. Almost as important as having an in spec tq wrench.

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I actually made my girlfriend go to this Bubble Tea place and get me a big diameter straw so I can affix it to my shop vac and suck out the holes LOL. And I have air as well etc. Hoping that cleans them out well.


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Question about A1 technology head stud install.
My sheet says 90 3 times, then 55 115 170 and finally 225
My block is bored .20 over

A fellow mate says his A1s has a different spec..

What gives? Different builds or alloys of studs A1 produced? Which one is right? Thanks in Advance

Worst part is I called the A1 number on the sheet 562 408 1808 and it’s been disconnected..


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Don’t mind the grease stains!

Found this one on line also. http://swampsmotorsports.com/files/6.4LHeadStudInstallation2.pdf

Shafer171 said:

Don’t mind the grease stains!

Found this one on line also. http://swampsmotorsports.com/files/6.4LHeadStudInstallation2.pdf

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Can you text that to me brother it’s blurry and I can’t zoom in,

I called Mike Dillahey at No Limit diesel
And he recommended I go to the specs on the paper as they used a new alloy apparently they had an older stud that was similar to the 2000’s and he said that might be what the other references are for
Shane said stop at 200
Mike says go to 225
You say 195 lol
I might just go in between it all and stop at 210 idk, I’m so pissed they’re out of business to ask
Like WHY would they MAKE a spec sheet and give those numbers? For purposeful failure? I don’t get it, they have engineers and they used those numbers for a reason you know? So I really don’t understand why it wouldn’t be wise to follow. I get it
Bored block, cracks etc.. but it’s better than the 275 I torqued my old ARPS too and that didn’t crack the block.. so..

Lost
But send me those pics to my cell if possible so I can read them clearly please

705 561 6576

Thanks man!


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To put it in perspective, those studs torqued to 215, are more force than what they use on top fuel dragsters...

Think I’m just going to listen to Shane he gives the best advice. Thanks Shane!


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Text you the elite sheets bud. Sorry can’t figure out how to post larger pics, maybe a mod can help.

Little Update, I know it’s been a while, but i’ve been waiting on parts like crazy, thank you COVID-19..

Engines in the the truck, New HG’s, Heads are torqued (what a process to install H11s) but well worth it,

8” Lift kit is installed, (no worries the Chromes are soon to be gone, just temp fill ins)

Going to try and put the turbo on, and up pipes, then shimmy it back to get the TC and bell housing bolts in.. hopefully I can, I hate putting up pipes in through the wheel wells.. lol,

Progress is coming, hopefully running by the weekend,

Question, how long should I run it, till I flush the coolant, hate the thought of me even running it for a day, so worried about clogging that NEW oil cooler with sediment from the block, can I run just distilled water for 30 minutes and then drain and do that twice? Then fill with coolant, and flush that after maybe 1000km, then run it with fresh coolant again till 50k??

And what about oil? Im thinking the first hour I run it, I’m going to change the oil.

Thanks Fellas


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Get 2 qts of vc9. Fill the truck with water and the vc9. Run it for an hour or so. Then pull the petcock from the radiator, remove the little gose from the degas to the radiator, drop the starter, and pull the block plug on the passenger side. Its an 8mm Allen. Run fresh water thru it for half an hor or so, shut the hose off and let it drain everything out. Put the block plug back in, then pull the drivers side block plug, and run the hose thru it for another half hour or so. Then let it all drain again. Then pull the passenger block plug and let everything drain out. Reassemble everything, and fill with 4 gallons of coolant before you start with water. Use distilled water on the final fill once you get to that point, if youre using coolant that needs cut

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