Time to do injectors

DieselDC

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66mm turbo with the stock 68mm turbine, why waste the time and then leave the hot side stock. Everyone knows real gains are made in the turbine. :poke:. A stock sized 60mm with a 70mm sxe turbine would likely outflow your eBay pile @ 20psi. Look at the size of the hub on that compressor it's bigger than stock, sure...no differences.



Do you think I care if it flows more than my current build? No buddy, no I don’t. If I wanted more flow, I have my s400 Dt360 that flows more than Two kcturbo stg2 combined (maybe exaggerated but my 7.3 ain’t pushing no 70+psi). I’ll keep my Ebay pile and walk to the bank.


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Dirtclod

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Ask the guys at KC about an SXE turbine wheel while you are at it.

I haven’t tried calling them yet but I don’t see it available on their site. Maybe they just haven’t updated it yet. I sent them an email but haven’t heard back. What exactly is the sxe turbine wheel?
 

DieselDC

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They are on back order I believe. Did you try to go on their website to read about it? You could also google íit.

To put it in simple terms, their kcturbo Gtp38r drop in turbo is an absolute beast. They machined it in house to mimic the sxe 366 and to out perform our stock turbo - which it does and does so with authority. Thicker shaft, ball bearings, larger hot/cold side wheels. At least that’s what I remember on the top of my head. It is worth every penny - I just don’t have the extra pennies to buy a second one. That’s why I rebuilt mine.


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Dirtclod

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They are on back order I believe. Did you try to go on their website to read about it? You could also google íit.

To put it in simple terms, their kcturbo Gtp38r drop in turbo is an absolute beast. They machined it in house to mimic the sxe 366 and to out perform our stock turbo - which it does and does so with authority. Thicker shaft, ball bearings, larger hot/cold side wheels. At least that’s what I remember on the top of my head. It is worth every penny - I just don’t have the extra pennies to buy a second one. That’s why I rebuilt mine.


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...:uptight people suck:...

Yea I went on there and read about the 38r. I sent them a pm yesterday and they replied giving a better email. Hopefully they have enough parts that I can get pretty close to that same turbo. It sounds impressive,hopefully we can work something out.
 

Back woods

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The sxe turbine is a reverse rotation (and slightly smaller) model of the popular turbine that comes in the S364.5 and S366 SXE turbo.
 

LakeBum

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The sxe turbine is a reverse rotation (and slightly smaller) model of the popular turbine that comes in the S364.5 and S366 SXE turbo.

Would like to see someone put this in a stock turbo with a billet wheel running a light tow tune (more fuel) and hit the hills with a RV or Cargo trailer @ 10K pounds plus . Lets see how it does at 1800-2100 rpms managing EGTs.
 

Back woods

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Would like to see someone put this in a stock turbo with a billet wheel running a light tow tune (more fuel) and hit the hills with a RV or Cargo trailer @ 10K pounds plus . Lets see how it does at 1800-2100 rpms managing EGTs.

I am running one right now, have about 1000 miles on it. It is the stock turbo with a 70mm SXE, 1.15 Van housing with an ATS housing and 9 blade BD billet wheel. I am also running a lighter tune that is in the 40-60hp range. Before I was running a fresh rebuilt stock turbo with an ATS housing. The truck doesn't have an EGT gauge though. It pulls good between 1800-2100 and clears up the tune 100%. 2300-3200rpm is where it separates itself from the stock turbo. Have a couple videos of it running.
 

LakeBum

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I am running one right now, have about 1000 miles on it. It is the stock turbo with a 70mm SXE, 1.15 Van housing with an ATS housing and 9 blade BD billet wheel. I am also running a lighter tune that is in the 40-60hp range. Before I was running a fresh rebuilt stock turbo with an ATS housing. The truck doesn't have an EGT gauge though. It pulls good between 1800-2100 and clears up the tune 100%. 2300-3200rpm is where it separates itself from the stock turbo. Have a couple videos of it running.

I saw your videos. But I still stand by what I posted above. Lets see what this does when you start towing an RV/Cargo trailer in the 10K+ range in the hills at 1800-2100 rpms and lets see how it manages EGTs.

We know what a BW SXE will do...Let see what a cloned drop in turbine will do.
 

Back woods

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Ive got a set of gauges that I might put on there, even a drive pressure gauge. I tow with it regularly so when I get gauges set up I will provide some videos. Results will be different compared to the .84 68mm housing.
 

565edge

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I saw your videos. But I still stand by what I posted above. Lets see what this does when you start towing an RV/Cargo trailer in the 10K+ range in the hills at 1800-2100 rpms and lets see how it manages EGTs.

We know what a BW SXE will do...Let see what a cloned drop in turbine will do.

I have a d-66 with billet compressor wheel. I tow a 17-18K toyhauler. As soon as I put the turbo back on I plan on towing my trailer up a large grade (Grapevine) and plan to give results. I have results with stock injectors and 238/80 injectors with my d-66 turbo with a 70mm turbine with .84 housing. I will be installing a 1.0 wastegated housing and the new 70mm sxe turbine. Getting it balanced now and getting the 1.0 housing machined. Just waiting to get it back.
 

Dirtclod

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Well I’ve got 4 injectors out and 4 glow plugs. The #8 inj was replaced back 3 years ago when I had the reg return fuel system installed. Here’s a pic.
 

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co04cobra

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No, that is oem colors. Others are just deteriorated more.

Colors go from bottom up. Orange, pink, blue, black, steel.
 

Arisley

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Remember, torque on the injector hold down bolts is 120 Inch Pounds. That is only ten foot pounds. If you do not have a torque wrench that can read that low, just use a 1/4 inch standard length ratchet and go pretty freaking tight. Not as tight as you can, but about a one grunt tight. It has never failed me. Mike sure the injectors are seated good before tightening, if you try to seat the injectors with the bolt, you will either strip it out or break it off. Smack it (don't bang on it with a rubber mallet. Listen, and you will hear when it is seated. When all four are on there, lay a straight edge ( a level works well). they should all be the same height (no straight edge wobble) (ok, a tiny, tiny bit is OK, but no more than that). With the glow plugs out, bar the motor over for two revolutions (one is probably OK, but twice is nice). Put the valve covers on with a couple of bolts finger tight, leave the 42 pin harness not connected and bump it iver with the starter (bump, not crank) for a couple or five revolutions. After that crank it for a few seconds at a time. Push all that stuff out. This is why you should not drain the oil before removing injectors. Now drain oil (with all of the fuel and coolant added to it) out. Put a full gallon in the driver seat to remind you that the pan is dry and continue on with the reinstall. Never trust your memory, it will let you down when you least expect it, especially after a long day with a few beers tossed in. Remember that slow is fast (faster to do it slow once than fast twice). Call me if you hit a stump. Andy 817-917-3731.
 

Dirtclod

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Remember, torque on the injector hold down bolts is 120 Inch Pounds. That is only ten foot pounds. If you do not have a torque wrench that can read that low, just use a 1/4 inch standard length ratchet and go pretty freaking tight. Not as tight as you can, but about a one grunt tight. It has never failed me. Mike sure the injectors are seated good before tightening, if you try to seat the injectors with the bolt, you will either strip it out or break it off. Smack it (don't bang on it with a rubber mallet. Listen, and you will hear when it is seated. When all four are on there, lay a straight edge ( a level works well). they should all be the same height (no straight edge wobble) (ok, a tiny, tiny bit is OK, but no more than that). With the glow plugs out, bar the motor over for two revolutions (one is probably OK, but twice is nice). Put the valve covers on with a couple of bolts finger tight, leave the 42 pin harness not connected and bump it iver with the starter (bump, not crank) for a couple or five revolutions. After that crank it for a few seconds at a time. Push all that stuff out. This is why you should not drain the oil before removing injectors. Now drain oil (with all of the fuel and coolant added to it) out. Put a full gallon in the driver seat to remind you that the pan is dry and continue on with the reinstall. Never trust your memory, it will let you down when you least expect it, especially after a long day with a few beers tossed in. Remember that slow is fast (faster to do it slow once than fast twice). Call me if you hit a stump. Andy 817-917-3731.
Thanks Brother! As far as oil in fuel tank should I pull the tank and do a good clean out?
 

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