I have a fault in my 5r110 that I can't figure out. It reads transmission over temp lock up inhibit. Trans will still lock up the converter and shift.but it's showing a trans temp of 29000 degrees..yes 29000. And a voltage of 1.2xxx. My trans temp gauge reads dead center, not high or low..any ideas? I found this while trying to trouble shoot a limp mode fault that continuously came in..truck is a 2006 with a 2004 trans.
5r110 fault??
- Thread starter rjustman
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Mark Kovalsky
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It's most likely either a bad trans temp sensor in the trans, or a damaged wire to the trans temp sensor. You can replace the sensor by dropping the pan.
Mark Kovalsky
Active member
Evasive? Like trying to avoid you?
It's not too invasive. You have to remove the pan, and then the sensor is exposed and can be replaced. The sensor clips onto the solenoid body. You don't need to remove the solenoid body or any solenoids to get to it.
It's not too invasive. You have to remove the pan, and then the sensor is exposed and can be replaced. The sensor clips onto the solenoid body. You don't need to remove the solenoid body or any solenoids to get to it.
Zmann
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hit me up if you need some info via pdf or a full manual emailed to you
but is is not a daunting task by any means
but is is not a daunting task by any means
Zmann
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here is a pdf
I'd like to bring this back up..i replaced the temp sensor along with the solenoids..trans temp will go to normal operating temperature within I'd say 2 minutes of the truck being started, whether the truck is going down the road or not..still reading a stupid high temp number..how hard is it to replace the internal harness? That's about all I can think of..
Mark Kovalsky
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If you're looking at the stock gauge, it is programmed to go to the middle of normal anytime the trans is warmer than 50F and colder than 230F.
Changing the internal harness is not much harder than changing the temp sensor.
Changing the internal harness is not much harder than changing the temp sensor.
Does the valve body need to come out? Yeah wierd thing is is I could start the truck and not.move it, just let it idle in park and within a minute or 2 it's up to operating temp according to gauge, but when hooked to a scan tool it's reading 23000 degrees..something ain't right.
The only reason I'm trying to troy me shoot this is I'm having a hard time tuning this trans right now, we can't get it just right..the 2-3 shift is a clunk, and even when coming to a stop sign I have a clunk, so wondering if I have a harness issue..ive already replaced solenoid, and temp sensor..harness is last piece of the puzzle..the fluid is clean and there was almost ZERO material in the pan or on the magnet in bottom of pan..the trans is triple filtered, it has the job 2 pan swap with the 08 internal filter, it also has the paper roll filter, AND an external filter from some company running a Baldwin hydraulic filter..im keeping fluid clean as I can..all other shifts are so so and livable I guess it's just that 2-3 and 3-2 shift, is rough..
And mark reading the astg manual is says that's where the trans gets it's shift schedule from is the tft sensor..this correct? It also says that if that fails it reverts to the engine temp..is it looking at the coolant temp or oil temp? It also states that it looks at the intake air temp sensor for reads for the shift schedule,I'm guessing ambient air temp? is it the intake temp 1 in the MAF sensor or the intake temp 2 on the I take manifold?
The only reason I'm trying to troy me shoot this is I'm having a hard time tuning this trans right now, we can't get it just right..the 2-3 shift is a clunk, and even when coming to a stop sign I have a clunk, so wondering if I have a harness issue..ive already replaced solenoid, and temp sensor..harness is last piece of the puzzle..the fluid is clean and there was almost ZERO material in the pan or on the magnet in bottom of pan..the trans is triple filtered, it has the job 2 pan swap with the 08 internal filter, it also has the paper roll filter, AND an external filter from some company running a Baldwin hydraulic filter..im keeping fluid clean as I can..all other shifts are so so and livable I guess it's just that 2-3 and 3-2 shift, is rough..
And mark reading the astg manual is says that's where the trans gets it's shift schedule from is the tft sensor..this correct? It also says that if that fails it reverts to the engine temp..is it looking at the coolant temp or oil temp? It also states that it looks at the intake air temp sensor for reads for the shift schedule,I'm guessing ambient air temp? is it the intake temp 1 in the MAF sensor or the intake temp 2 on the I take manifold?
Mark Kovalsky
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The TFT is an input to shift schedules. If it is colder than 0F it shifts 1-2-3-4-6. If it is warmer than 0F it shifts 1-2-3-5-6. That's the only input the TFT has.
It will substitute engine temp if the TFT is bad. I don't remember which one it uses. To me it doesn't matter, either one is the wrong temp, but if the TFT doesn't work, it is all you have to work with.
I don't remember ever using intake air temp for anything transmission related.
It will substitute engine temp if the TFT is bad. I don't remember which one it uses. To me it doesn't matter, either one is the wrong temp, but if the TFT doesn't work, it is all you have to work with.
I don't remember ever using intake air temp for anything transmission related.
Zmann
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I forget
are you running any tunes ?
are you running any tunes ?
Does the valve body need to come out to swap harness?? Also another strange tho g I've noticed is the first few shifts of the day are smooth as silk, but soon as it warms up it gets rough..another thing is I can feel the down shift to 2nd..it's rough..you can see it in the data logs I've taken, all upshifts have a slight increase in pressure at time of shift, but the 2-3 shift it spikes hard, it also spikes hard during that down shift..the solenoids have been replaced and new fluid put in..No change..could I have an epc problem or could the bad get sensor be making it shift all cockeyed? I'm only running the Ect Temp sensors not the EOT sensor..MAF isn't being used either..so if the ECT sensor wasn't working the converter shouldn't lock right? Isn't the converter prohibited from locking if engine isn't up to temp or is that false?only reason I ask is if I have the wrong temp sensor and the trans has no idea what temp is could that be causing my problems? The converter locks so I'm guessing it use a the ECT sensor..
Zmann yeah I'm running a tune from gear head, I sent off data logs to see if they can straighten it out..the vendor of my guy has been dropping the ball so they're tryung to get it figured out..the stock tune does good as long as I can keep the codes clear, but having to reset codes every time I start it up sucks..i like the gear splits and how the trans acts with the stock tune in, just starts acting funny if I shut it down without resetting codes..
Zmann yeah I'm running a tune from gear head, I sent off data logs to see if they can straighten it out..the vendor of my guy has been dropping the ball so they're tryung to get it figured out..the stock tune does good as long as I can keep the codes clear, but having to reset codes every time I start it up sucks..i like the gear splits and how the trans acts with the stock tune in, just starts acting funny if I shut it down without resetting codes..
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Mark Kovalsky
Active member
Those can be the cause of your problems. You can't just remove sensors and not expect to have problems. Those sensors weren't there just because they are pretty, the PCM NEEDS that information to set shift pressures correctly. Without them it just takes a guess.
Wrong. The PCM will take a guess at temperature and try to operate as normally as possible.
Yes, that can be causing your problem.
It's a conversion truck so I didn't just take them out for no reason just wasn't told I needed them..u til reading the astg manual like I said..so are the engine oil temp and mad air flow sensors needed? It said intake air temp but not which one specifically
Mark Kovalsky
Active member
Yes, those sensors are needed.
Ok..thanks..now does the valve body need to be removed to pull the internal harness..only thing I've seen that gets removed is the print for a new one, can that not be done with valve body intact , just want to know what to expect before I drain pan
