4R refresh

Yea my only issue is heavy throttle into 3rd she just slips and over revs like 3 times until it grabs.

If I have a trailer on 3 times a year it's rare. And it's usually just quads. Or a car

If it's slipping any I wouldn't chance reusing the converter. Chances are that's what's slipping plus it's gonna have clutch material in it that's gonna get back into your nice fresh clutches. It's yours so it's up to you. But personally I wouldn't chance it. Stock converters just don't like much over stock tuning. I don't even think that converter I got had a core charge. At least it didn't when I got one.

You really shouldn't even reuse the cooler but if you flush it really good it should be ok.

Been monitoring the fluid and no particles what so ever. I'll probably do it right though since I hate down time

I would. Like the old saying goes if it's worth doing it's worth doing right. And of course there are much better options to build a trans then the stuff I mentioned but for a stock truck with a tune and for the price it couldn't be beat. My buddy ran that setup in his truck with a modded h2e and 238/100's for a good while. it held for about a year then the converter started not locking up right. But when torn apart the clutches were fine. I think you would be happy with it. Just make sure everything is clean as can be when going back together. And that book is very detailed. It covers disassembly and reassembly step by step.

****, local shop said $2500 for bench job with built materials.... hmmm

That's not a bad price. Just make sure they put a good triple disk converter in it. And the tugger kit. For a tunes only truck or even maybe stage 1 injectors you will be fine. Just don't let them tell you it's a performance built trans for that cost. A good built trans will have that much or more just in billet parts before you even get clutches or a converter. But for your application I think it would be fine and serve you well.

yea i dont think i need billet piece, input/output, etc...

it is def the most well known shop in the area and we've done business for years, but I just still have that worry...

on the other hand I found a dealer tech that with labor only he wants $750. with those parts you linked me, that seems to be the cheaper method... but again.. doing business on the side vs a shop....

That's a tough decision. I think you would be really happy with the parts I mentioned in it and you would know what was in it. I think I had right at $700 in the trans for the dually. Shoot you could build that trans 3 times for $2500. Lol not that you would need to. Just saying. If your mechanically inclined at all I think you could build it yourself with that book. For the most part it's a fairly simple trans.

I wouldn't worry about doing business on the side. As long as the guy knows what he is doing it should be fine. The only good thing about having a shop doing it is you get a warranty.

yes exactly.... and at the drop of a hat theyd have the flatbed out to get me or would almost be same day service

Im def not shaming side business, hell, thats some of my own best work. its just its one man vs an entire shop of qualified guys.

CTC DEEZUL said:

Simple enough. But is there a reason to replace the convertor when there wasn't a hard failure?

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The reason is that you don't want debris that's in the old converter causing a failure of the new trans. And yes, there IS debris in it.

dieselmandustin said:

I wouldn't mess with it then. Just flush the cooler really good. If your converter is locking up fine leave it in there. Like I said if it goes your only out of a little time to switch them and fluid.

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This is an excellent plan to cause you to rebuild the trans a second time. The second time you do it, plan to change the converter AND the coolers so that you don't have to do it a third time.

The coolers and converter both have debris from the old trans. If the old trans was run in the truck it has created debris. Some if it gets stuck in the converter, some of it in the coolers, and some in the filter.

There is NO effective way to flush a converter or a cooler. The converter could be cut open, cleaned and inspected, and then rewelded. Then it would be safe to reuse it. The coolers should be scrapped unless you're willing to take the chance that something could find it's way out of the cooler and cause an issue with the new trans, up to a failure.

I agree with everything Mark said. He is right the converter can't be flushed and the coolers shouldn't be reused. But I have reused coolers and have not had any issues so long as they were flushed the best I could. Maybe I have just gotten lucky. I have been willing to take that chance to save some money and so far I've been lucky to not have any issues. Is it the right way to do it no, but I know that so if it fails because of it, I know not to get upset. If there was ever a guy on here to take advice from on transmissions it's Mark. He wouldn't steer you wrong. Get a new cooler to be safe. And you need a converter anyway. With 200k on yours it's done its job.

Agree with everything said here and will move on with complete rebuild/replacement of just about everything. thanks guys, I think I am honestly going to give this a try. I failed to mention my GFs step dad is a GM World class technician who specializes in trans mission work. The only hang up is the tooling, but you had said they could be easily made, or maybe could rent them from you?

someone asked about replacing the solenoid pack.. cant that be done with trans in truck if it ever did go bad? or should they be replaced?

also, what stall speed should I be looking for for converter?

then I see something like this...

http://chicago.craigslist.org/sox/pts/5912502420.html

LOL

We have always reused the solenoid pack with no issue. If yours is working I say reuse it. I usually get a case of 2+2 carb cleaner and clean all the valve bodies and solenoid with that. The trans in my truck with the built motor is a bts so I'm not sure on the stall Brian uses. But the converter I got off ebay from torque converter one that I put in the dually is a low stall. They said it would help for towing. I didn't see any difference.

I don't know if my friend would want me to loan that tool out but I could get you a few pics of what he made.

Good luck driving into Skankakee to get it. It used to be on the "worst cities to live in" list. Good price though.

1600 for a rebuild.