Riff Raff oil pan gasket

White Buffalo said:

Well, we used one on my Excursion and it freakin leaks:doh:. Rocky (Rockin S) didn't really want to use it but I talked him into it......not leaking much, like a dog in heat - still gonna have to come out again sooner or later.:fustrate:

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Rocky needs some shop cleaning.

PDT1081 said:

Where is it leaking? You still need to use some silicone on the corners.

Also, new or used pan?

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Yep, followed the instructions. New pan (old one was rusted & dented from PO), cleaned off all contact areas and let dry, Ford sealant on the corners, New pan studs, etc.... Leaking from the drivers side rear corner.

Swaan said:

Never understood why people want to use a gasket on the oil pan. The factory way is bullet proof. I've seen rusted out oil pans and leaking dip stick adapters but never the actuall oil pan rail leaking.
Just use the factory international or ford silicon and if done right it's good for the life of the engine. Done!!
I think people like to be different. Just because they make a gasket now, doesn't make it any better then the original design. JMO.

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Yep, pretty much what what Rocky said.....with the additional plug "a fool and his money are soon parted."

Tom S said:

Rocky needs some shop cleaning.

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I tried to clean a good hour every morning......but it sure doesn't look like it! LOL

Call me a fool, l I'll. It worked for me, inframe. I tried rtv, messier than sh\t. Couple people said pull it, had to try it in frame, and it's a pita. I think the gasket "may" be simpler inframe for some of us slower guys.
Whateverror floats your boat, it's nice to have options.

psduser1 said:

Call me a fool, l I'll. It worked for me, inframe. I tried rtv, messier than sh\t. Couple people said pull it, had to try it in frame, and it's a pita. I think the gasket "may" be simpler inframe for some of us slower guys.
Whateverror floats your boat, it's nice to have options.

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Doing it the way you did is the only time I would refer to the gasket as the sensible option.

I would never even attempt swapping a pan gasket in frame. I hated doing a 6 cylinder Chevy truck in frame. Didn't even have to undo a motor mount on that.

Arisley said:

I would never even attempt swapping a pan gasket in frame. I hated doing a 6 cylinder Chevy truck in frame. Didn't even have to undo a motor mount on that.

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I wouldnt either but out of the two options to do in the truck, id take the gasket. I obviously wouldnt do it that way as I oulled my motor back in 12 to do just that. And while it was out I did everything I could other than build a new motor. Every seal, accesory, plug, and line was replaced.

I used it on my build and on my dads 02 when his pan rusted thru. Both with new spectra pans from oreilly. No leaks from either one. Both motors were out and hanging from the cherry picker. Cleaned the block real good, and used silicone per the directions.

I have yet to do a 7.3 pan replacement but it looks like even with cleaning my current one up within the next two years I will need to replace it.

I got to look at a Ford pan the other day and I have to say I was not impressed. It looked to be made in China and was some thin gauge steel.

Is the Moroso pan the best one short of a custom? I can see at least its made in the USA and is of a thicker gauge steel. Also looks like the coating process maybe better but I am not sure what the process in on the Ford ones. All I know is I want the pan to last.

Would there be any benefit to have another layer of coating sprayed on the exterior, something akin to a top quality bed liner to prevent damage to the other coatings from gravel etc that then could allow moisture and corrosive salts to creep in to the bare metal and start the rust process?

I absolute hate rust. Lucky for me I only have a few surface rust patches on the back side of a couple body panels that a wire wheel and proper prep will easily take care of. Beyond that the frame axles and drive shaft but again those are all easy fixes. Well not the frame so much as to do it properly I have to pull the cab and its an Excursion so I have a feeling its a bit more of a PITA and certainly more weight and size as one piece.

just finished my frame with rust bullet..then used the color shell over that..it stops rust in its tracks..this stuff is rock solid when it dry's,, i used the bullet automotive because it can be sprayed on..made doing the top of the frame rail easy with the cab on..the bullet is gray/silver in color and can be used with out a top coat...

http://www.rustbullet.com/products/standard.html

http://www.rustbullet.com/products/topcoats/colorshell.html

So it holds up well? That would be ideally what I would like to do as I really really really do not want to pull the EX body off the frame. I can only imagine what it would cost to have a shop pull the body as they would also likely only do it if they were doing the frame rail prep and paint themselves. My bet is over $1K easy but maybe I am wrong.

Anyways thanks I will defiantly look into it as that is ideally what I want to do. As I have some suspension work that will require dropping front and rear leaf I should be able to get everything. I think the only other stuff to pull will be the brake , fuel and of course the AC lines which on the AC run to the rear where the other unit is. Not sure if I can do it without fully disconnecting them or not yet. But a full AC recharge is well worth it IMO if I do have to.


How much did you end up needing to do the whole frame?

Did you use a airless or a HVLP sprayer?

I am not to worried about how the frame looks close up just want it rust free. I do not presently have a sprayer so I may need to find someone, buy a low cost one or roll it on.

Looks like minimal prep which sure is nice. Power wash, light wire wheel, clean, and paint. Looks like 3 coats for HVLP roll and bush and two coats if you use a airless sprayer( think I would still do three to be safe.) Grey works fine for me. I just do not want rust brown/orange. I may first practice on my rusted drive shaft first.

Tarm, if you do your drive shaft, pay real close attention to application, it could really mess up balance.

if i can do this tarm...there is no doubt you can handle it...very simple to do with very little prep work...how long will it last?? i hope a long time..i just sprayed a couple weeks ago..this stuff goes right over surface rust.. you need to remove all loose paint and flaky rust..i used a needle gun to take off the flaky stuff.. sanded the heavy rusted parts... degrees every thing with simple green or what ever...dry it good...i used there stuff called mettle blast..its an acid that neutralizes the rust..it also acts like etching primer..spray it on wait 20-30 minutes and wipe it off or rinse away..if you rinse make sure its very dry before you start spraying..we have HVLP set up at work..even though we have a paint booth we also have a outside lift with a cat walk..it was a nice weekend so we used that.. it made life easy..the rust bullet is silver kinda like the dull side of aluminum foil...put on 3 coats of rust bullet letting it get sticky without sticking to your finger between coats..8ml thick if i remember right..after doing the under side i decided not to go black under there..you could see it get brighter as you painted the silver under there..i thought if i broke at night i might be able to see much better with a flashlight bouncing off all that silver...so i taped off my spring hangers and U bolts and shot the out side of the frame rail with black shell with 3 coats..its a high gloss black...then sprayed 3 coats of clear shell over the rest of the silver...they also have green,red,orange,blue,black, white,purple yellow and clear shell... ColorShell coatings are high visibility, UV resistant rust inhibitive that wont crack.peal,chip if applied right..like the rust bullet the shell is also self leveling..wont show brush marks if done by hand....hard to make it run if sprayed..after a week i smacked my frame with a hammer a few times..did not beat it.. just a few good smacks and didnt hurt this stuff a bit...it is also resistant against all kinds of salts and acids...i bought this kit http://www.rustbullet.com/rust-bullet-undercarriage-truck-kit.html there was plenty for my super cab long bed..it also comes with the mettle blast and solvents for cleaning.. there are other kits as well.. http://www.rustbullet.com/products/automotive.html remember if you want to spray the rust bullet get the automotive..its pre mixed for spraying..if you want to brush it on get the stranded....(the bald head in one picture is not mine lol)

like Andy said..have your shaft re balanced after you paint it..thats my plan..im waiting on blue shell as we speak...plans are the oil pan,alt,ic pipe,valve cover and HPO reservoir

OK did not think of that with the drive shaft balance glad you guys mentioned it.

Ron,

Thanks for the detail info. Yes then I will likley be doing it cab on and get as good as I can on the top side of the rail. I bet a small roller would fit well up there hopefully. I was thinking the same thing with the silver. I likley will paint my engine a high viz color so it will be easy to find oil leaks if/when I pull it. This will be nice as I can also clean up those surface rust spots on the back sides of the body panels as well before they turn into something more. Axles I guess will get done when I drop them to do the leaf spring swaps. Those will likley be the quickest as they will be very easy to get to everything.

So Ron that kit you bought gave you enough to do the entire frame with all the coats?

i did frame and floors front to back..had one extra can of black because i did not do the floors with it..cover your ex good..the over spray is hard to clean off..mine is going into the spray booth for paint when the motor goes in so i did not bother but i did cover the glass....i put on new cab corners and i cut the inside of the rockers open to paint them with this bullet as well..there are some very good instructions that come with the kit..even tells what tip to use in your spraygun....

Ron,

Any disadvantages to using brushes? I don't own a sprayer, but I wouldn't mind buying one or just paying the body shop to spray it after I did all the prep. I have to do something before the snow starts.......it seems they are using twice as much chemicals around here than in the past. I don't want to do what I did last winter.......run to the damn wash rack down the street 50 times......

That product looks like it will work great for me here in South Dakota.

i do not see any disadvantage... its self leveling so brush marks will not show up...i just ordered blue color shell for my oil pan and valve covers and will be brushing that on after i sand blast them...if you use the rust bullet get the standard mix..the automotive is thinner so it can be sprayed...also get the small spray bottle of mettle blast..it deep cleans better then any de greaser can,,it gives the bullet something to hold on to..it also neutralizes any rust you may have missed..this stuff comes in anything from 1/4 pint cans to 55 gal drums...dont over buy because once can is open its hard to make it last unless you dont mind it stored in your fridge..when you close the can back up put a piece of plastic wrap on the can then put the cover on...and put on some gloves,,took almost 2 weeks for this chit to wear off

Great read. Thanks for posting this info guys

Thanks Ron, just about ready to hit the buy button on this stuff. One question, do you think two 24 oz spray bottles of the Rust Bullet Metal Blast is enough to do the under body of the Excursion? I'm thinking of going with the gallon container/sprayer.

MossBack said:

Cleaned off all the old rtv. ( used victor gray instead of ford so that could be why it wouldn't seal).

Hammered her flat then followed the directions and installed studs. Rtv the front and rear as well as corners with a dab. Installed pan and gasket then torqued to 15 ft lbs then again to 20.


Moss Diesel Service

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Thats definitely why it leaked

Swaan said:

Never understood why people want to use a gasket on the oil pan. The factory way is bullet proof. I've seen rusted out oil pans and leaking dip stick adapters but never the actuall oil pan rail leaking.
Just use the factory international or ford silicon and if done right it's good for the life of the engine. Done!!
I think people like to be different. Just because they make a gasket now, doesn't make it any better then the original design. JMO.

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Completely agree with this. I have never once had an oil pan leak after replacing one with an oem replacement and the motor raft 7.3 rtv