Turbo questions

Yellow1000

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Anyone have any advice for a first timer removing the turbo? I've done other trucks just not an OBS yet. Got a billet wheel and 1.0 housing coming hopefully. Hoping this will make it a bit more responsive. What seals and o rings will I need to replace also?


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Yellow1000

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Thank you! Is there anything anyone suggests doing while I'm in there ?


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Plug the current map sensor bung on the passenger side intake plenum, and move your map sensor read spot right after the turbo in the hot air pipe going from turbo to ic
 
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The pcm in the obs trucks originally read MAP right after turbo, this just keeps it that way. Weither or not there is a way to tune for it I don't know, but I assume the lag in spool and loss in mileage comes from response time and pressure loss compared to original setup, gues pcm doesn't process this difference fast enough. Again, there might be a way to tune for difference, but a lot of us had positive results to doing it the way I mentioned after trying to keep MAP in original spot first...Again, this was just Mine and a few others experiences, the technical reasons are just my guess
 

gnxtc2

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Anyone have any advice for a first timer removing the turbo? I've done other trucks just not an OBS yet. Got a billet wheel and 1.0 housing coming hopefully. Hoping this will make it a bit more responsive. What seals and o rings will I need to replace also?

So did you get them?

Going to need a good 1/4 drive 10mm swivel socket to get the rear pedestal bolts off. A good 12pt 8mm wrench for the EBPV. A stubby 15mm wrench (I forgot) for the lower turbo flange nuts.

Pick up yourself some turbo orings from McMaster. I like to use the brown colored Viton o-rings. These are the sizes.
-013
-211

Soak the exhaust housing to turbo center section with your favorite pentrating oil and all the bolts a few days before. I like to use Kroil, McMaster sells it.

Once you have the turbo off, check the up-pipes for any leakage (soot).

To give you an idea. And no I didn't make the video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aDb78-vYVes

If I remember more, I'll post.

Billy T.
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Yellow1000

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Thank you! They are sitting at my post office. I've been spraying it down for a week every day after I drive it. Should be no problem coming loose. I did see soot build up though between the exhaust housing and the center cartridge. Is there a gasket in there ?


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gnxtc2

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Thank you! They are sitting at my post office. I've been spraying it down for a week every day after I drive it. Should be no problem coming loose. I did see soot build up though between the exhaust housing and the center cartridge. Is there a gasket in there ?


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No gasket....make sure you use anti-seize when you assemble it. Also, might want to use some type Loctite because the bolts that hold the exhaust housing on have tendency to become loose. I use red Loctite.

Before you install the billet wheel and have the turbo on the bench, grab the turbo shaft and check for shaft play before you begin.

Billy T.
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m j

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turbo removal kicked my ass on my 97, I ended up cutting an uppipe to rip it out
trying to be nice to the old parts added hours to my t4 install before I reached for the sawzall
 

Yellow1000

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I'm hoping mine goes better. Mine looks all but brand new as far as rust goes. I'm hoping it comes right apart. And I've soaked it with pb blaster twice right after driving


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Yellow1000

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Turbo is off. Took 2.5 hours. Not bad for a first time.
67986fac86baff8b2316250930041fe5.jpg
7b5c1afb33ea76ee58b0d311027d3b58.jpg



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