Driveline vibrations

in there, it shows the wheelbase for each bracket.

you will need to find the combination of bracket and pinion angle shims to give you the 3* they seem to recommend.

You never want a drive shaft to be perfectly straight. in this case, you want the front tipped down juuuust a tad, so as the suspension compresses, it goes from, off to straight to off the other way, instead of off to more off.

also, you never want perfectly straight, so when the shaft turns it forces the needle bearing to turn inside the cap. if it was straight, the needles wouldn't turn, and you would get a flat spot on a few needles and drastically shorten u-joint life.

Exactly, and I think that is where my issue is. Currently my front half of the shaft comes down, then the rear half is more level, so as the suspension compresses, the driveshaft angle increases. If I had a 2 or 3 inch lift it would probably be perfect. Basically I need to raise my carrier a little. I don't have the exact angles, but by looking, if I raise the bearing 1 inch, it would likely be near perfectly straight. Raising it a little more would get a slight angle and then while loaded it would be slightly the opposite and in theory should be right on. I just need to know which bracket I currently have, so I can order the other one, but nowhere can I find dimensions of either.

Stopped by the dealer today, they looked up this TSB, and all part numbers they could find for my truck. They can tell me which bracket i "should" have from the factory, but can't tell me any details about it, or of any of the other part numbers. He basically had about 10 brackets it could be, but only by part number. He wasn't willing to order them all obviously, but if I could narrow it down to 2 or 3 he might be willing to do that. I'm about to start fabricating my own.

he should be able to get ahold of someone to get him a technical drawing of each part.

that is what your looking for.

as long as you don't have a idiot for a parts guy

He tried, but his computer didn't have pictures for most of them, and the ones it did all looked the same.

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no no no

a technical drawing



this is a technical drawing of a crankshaft of a tractor i grabbed at random off the internet, to show what a technical drawing is.

your parts guy should be able to lay his hands on one of these for each of those carrier brackets, so you can see which one you have, and which one you need to get.

or he orders you each of them, and you sort it out which one you have, and keep the one you need and give the rest back.

btw, it's his job to find you the right one, or order them till you get the right one. thats why you go to a parts guy. to get you what you need.

Hahaha, yes, THAT is a technical drawing like I like to see. Theirs is the drawing without any dimensions and he says that's all they have.

I spent about 45 minutes at a second dealer today, same story so I called a driveline shop. The first thing they said is "why not do a 1 piece shaft?"..... My response was " why didn't i think of that?".... turns out that many people go that route, and I wouldn't have needed the traction bars. (Even though they are good to have anyway.) I plan to swing by their shop next week so they can take a better look.

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I love my one piece.


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Jomax said:

I love my one piece.


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THAT is what I wanted to hear!

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kleake said:

THAT is what I wanted to hear!

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Came from the factory for me. Even with 37s towing 20k. Taking off foot to the floor, zero vibration.


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Jomax said:

Came from the factory for me. Even with 37s towing 20k. Taking off foot to the floor, zero vibration.


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Is yours a crew cab?

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kleake said:

Is yours a crew cab?

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Yes CCSB.


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Jomax said:

Yes CCSB.


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I wonder why yours is a single and most are 2-piece? Good to know it works well. I'm not sure why I hadn't thought about switching it previously. I blame it on old age. Lol

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kleake said:

I wonder why yours is a single and most are 2-piece? Good to know it works well. I'm not sure why I hadn't thought about switching it previously. I blame it on old age. Lol

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Most 6.7s that came in a short bed got one piece driveshafts. But 2wd still got a two piece.


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Jomax said:

Most 6.7s that came in a short bed got one piece driveshafts. But 2wd still got a two piece.


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Ahhh

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Ahhh, found the issue, and it may have been at least part of the source all along. Pinion is loose in the axle...... Read on for details:

Dropped my driveshaft off at www.driveshaftsoftulsa.com and had them convert it to a 1-piece using my components, but put in new u-joints at the same time. Got it back, and it looked excellent and the price was good. (These guys do excellent and fast work!) Installed it and noticed all low speed vibrations were COMPLETELY gone! WOOHOOO!!!!! Got up to 65ish and felt a little vibration, but when I backed off the throttle, it vibrated a pretty fair amount. Did this a few times to test and determined that at as low as 50mph, off the throttle it would vibrate. None was extreme, but would catch your attention. Since it used to be butter smooth at any speed above 20mph, I thought it may be out of balance or that my slip-yoke was worn since they re-used it.

So I took it by their shop and they put it up on a jack and took a look and found the yoke to be very loose on the axle allowing the shaft to wobble!

They snugged it up for me as a temporary fix and that solved 95% of the vibes at speed, BUT I will be looking at this more. Bad bearing possibly? Gotta do some research on the pinions on these Sterling axles now. 237k on the truck, i'm sure it's due for some service. It is odd that I used to have 0 vibes at speed, but did upon takoff, and now it's opposite. :doh:

Anyone know if the sterling uses a crush sleeve or just torque it back down? I plan to at least inspect it before I torque it down and hope I don't have to replace the inner bearing since that requires a lot more teardown.

Op I've had the same problem with my crew cab long bed and I noticed that my back u joints Caps were getting shiny.
Turns out the back joke was getting worn out could not tighten U-joints.
Never seen a big chunk of metal like that bend/wear out.
So I took it to a rear end shop and they replaced it. It took care of that problem but I still have the carrier wobble.
I did ask it local 4x4 shop about a solid Driveline they say they've never do it except for one time they got a bid for like $1,400 for a Driveline.
I don't know where they went but that's a stupid price I'm sure it can be built for around three hundred bucks I would think.


Glad you got your problem solved

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Mine is using a flange on both ends instead of the little u-bolts, which I am super glad! I've seen those little u-bolts stretch and wear out before. I've even had a transmission lock up causing those nuts to pop off the back of the u-bolts! That was a fun ride! lol

My 1-piece shaft cost just under $200 (re-using some of my parts), but if yours is a long bed, you might be past the limit of what most places will do. I think he mentioned 72" or something, and seems like mine was at 68" or so. I know I was within 6-8" of max they could do in a single.

Mine used the flange straps not the U bolts.
A custom Driveline Place lives within a hundred yards of my house maybe I should go talk to them LOL

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Mine is the one on the left both front and rear, if you have straps, it's probably like the one on the right?