2012 Ford F250 6.7 Diesel Turbocharger upgrade

racerxx

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Newbie here I've been scouring the internet looking for solutions for my failed turbo. I've found the best information so far on this site so I thought I'd reach out. 2012 F250 6.7 78,000 miles. I decided to order the parts from Sunrise Ford to upgrade to the 2015 model turbo. Carlos at Sunrise was really helpful he had the parts list set aside for the swap. I'm picking everything up on Thursday at the North Hollywood store. I was wondering how easy the conversion will be to install am I going to run into any problems with fit or mating the new parts to the existing ones? Dose anyone have a procedure written up or would I just follow an install for a 2015 model vehicle? I'm sure there is a post on here somewhere that will take you step by step I just can't find it. Thanks in advance
 

sootie

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Hopefully they have an accurate list...there are a lot of changeups over the years. You will also need a plug for the passenger side up pipe that isn't available from ford unless you get an adapter to put a pyro probe in there. The wastegate solenoid will need to be unplugged otherwise you will get an annoying buzzing everytime you shut the truck off. The wastegate vacuum line will need to be cut off and sealed otherwise your auto hubs won't work-i typically do that behind the alternator. Your tunes will need to be revised or else the drivability will be horrible and it will throw codes. Other than that everything is direct drop in.
 

racerxx

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Hopefully they have an accurate list...there are a lot of changeups over the years. You will also need a plug for the passenger side up pipe that isn't available from ford unless you get an adapter to put a pyro probe in there. The wastegate solenoid will need to be unplugged otherwise you will get an annoying buzzing everytime you shut the truck off. The wastegate vacuum line will need to be cut off and sealed otherwise your auto hubs won't work-i typically do that behind the alternator. Your tunes will need to be revised or else the drivability will be horrible and it will throw codes. Other than that everything is direct drop in.

Couple of questions. Will unplugging the wastegate solenoid be an issue when getting the vehicle smogged? Where can I get a plug for the passenger side up pipe and who should I look to for a remap.
 

sootie

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Couple of questions. Will unplugging the wastegate solenoid be an issue when getting the vehicle smogged? Where can I get a plug for the passenger side up pipe and who should I look to for a remap.
Unplugging the solenoid doesn't throw codes or anything. I get the plugs from a hose and fittings store. Have fun trying to get the truck to run right with emissions equipment intact. I would ****** it and get custom tunes from a reputable tuner like tyrant or Gear Head.
 

Ackerdiesel

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If you have a good dealer then you can buy a Cab&Chassis dummy plug for the Wastegate pigtail


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08Monster

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Hopefully they have an accurate list...there are a lot of changeups over the years. You will also need a plug for the passenger side up pipe that isn't available from ford unless you get an adapter to put a pyro probe in there. The wastegate solenoid will need to be unplugged otherwise you will get an annoying buzzing everytime you shut the truck off. The wastegate vacuum line will need to be cut off and sealed otherwise your auto hubs won't work-i typically do that behind the alternator. Your tunes will need to be revised or else the drivability will be horrible and it will throw codes. Other than that everything is direct drop in.
That's what that God awful buzzing is everytime I shut the dam truck off... I think I found the plug to unplug it a long time ago, it's terrible annoying.

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racerxx

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So the parts are all in dose anyone have an install procedure written up? I got the 2017 turbo. Ill put up the parts list in yhe morning.
 

sootie

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no need for a procedure, pull the old parts off an replace them with new. I already told you the items that weren't straight forward.


remove air intake, remove upper plastic intake, remove cold side pipe, remove throttle valve assembly, disconnect ccv hose, disconnect egr-to-intake pipe at the intake, remove lower aluminum intake, disconnect downpipe top and bottom, disconnect up pipes at the vband, remove coolant feed line to turbo, remove turbo/pedestal, remove downpipe, remove drivers side uppipe from manifold, undo egr feed pipe from the top of passenger manifold, remove passenger manifold heat shield, remove passenger manifold/up pipe.

Now just complete that procedure inversely with the new parts. Make sure you cover all holes with tape when doing the job so no dirt or hardware falls in-otherwise have fun tearing the motor down! Everything should be plug and play but the back pressure sensor wont mount back on the same stud it came off due to the port location on the new uppipe. i just lay it down towards the vgt actuator and tighten it up.
 

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