any head work for street drivin 7.3?

codyc7.3

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When I take my truck to a machine shop for studs is it worth having them do any head work for a purely street truck? I was thinking at least a polish. The truck will be running an s467 and 250/200s
 

TARM

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From what I have seen (I have zero first hand experience on with it on a 7.3) you will pick up 50HP and with a cam such as Matt's@ Gearhead Stage I Cam get the most all around benefits on the street. I suggest giving him a call as he has done a few street steps with his cam with a head light port and polish. I know the results were positive. It will also allow you to have the head gone thru , seats, valves, seals, springs etc.. IMO it comes down to if you have the funds you are willing to put into it.
 

golfer

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When I take my truck to a machine shop for studs is it worth having them do any head work for a purely street truck? I was thinking at least a polish. The truck will be running an s467 and 250/200s

one question...ok two..

why are you pulling the heads to install studs...and why would a machine shop be doing the installation?
 

TARM

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I read it as he was saying since it was already going to have work done (head studs installed) should he have them pull the heads and do some work in addition to the head studs. And could he get worthwhile performance gains on the street with the turbo and fuel he had planned.

I agree it seems weird if a machine shop is the one actually doing the in vehicle work as well. I just figured he worded it badly. :shrug:
 

golfer

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If he's planning on doing 250/200s....AND he pulls the heads for ANYTHING...

he'll have to fire ring the heads to keep a gasket in there...

stock, 100k+ mile gaskets (undisturbed) with studs installed will hold 60-70+psi for a lonnnnng time...

fresh gasket with studs...will pop at 40-50psi (or less) 90% of the time...

so...if he has no reason to pull the heads...my advice would be to simply install studs (one for one in place of bolts)..and roll on.

if he wants to remove the heads for any reason..he really is going to need FRs.
 

obspsd

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Golfer..... I am putting my truck back together with factory gaskets and h11s, i know this isn't what you would recommend but it's the best i could do with my funds. How long would you recommend taking it easy on these new gaskets before i really get down on it. Thanks for any advice as I'm just trying to prevent any head gasket problems in the near future
 

Magnum PD

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What about using Cometics gaskets on a fresh rebuild?

golfer told me that they had mixed results.
 

obspsd

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I've heard cometic aren't good, and you have to get the head and block machined completely smooth. If your gonna do all that you might as well do fire rings IMO
 

golfer

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we quit using Cometics years ago...very mixed results regardless of impeccable surface finish & flatness...

basically...any build expected to make >40psi gets fire rings..if we're going to stand behind the work.

As far as driving on stock gskts & H11's (over 40-45psi)...I wouldn't know what to say, other than conservative driving for 10k miles...retorque...another few thousand...retorque...then cross your fingers when you lay into it...
 

ToMang07

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What's the difference between fire-rings and regular rings? Just tighter fit? Do they have higher compression? ALLOW higher compression?
 

obspsd

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Im gonna take it easy as long as I can but we'll see how it goes
 

Viking

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What's the difference between fire-rings and regular rings? Just tighter fit? Do they have higher compression? ALLOW higher compression?

O-Ringing:
O-Ringing is cutting or machining a narrow circular groove in your cylinder head surface, then tapping or pressing in a stainless steel wire. The stainless wire protrudes 8-12 thousandths from the surface of the head. When installed on the block, this wire lines up with the steel ring in the head gasket. After torquing your cylinder head down, this wire puts additional pressure on the steel ring, allowing for a better head-to-block combustion seal. These setups work very well for mild builds up to 750HP, with 70PSI or less boost.

Fire Ringing:
Fire ringing is cutting or machining a circular groove in your cylinder head OR block surface, or sometimes both surfaces. The groove is generally machined in the head in most street uses.
Once the groove is cut, a circular mild steel ring is set on the block in the grooves that were cut. In the case of having the head cut, we generally glue the rings to the head to ensure proper positioning with the cylinder when you install the cylinder head. With fire ringing, the stock steel fire ring in the Cummins gasket is removed and instead replaced with the mild steel "fire rings". This allows for a stronger seal than o-ringing. When the head is torqued, the steel rings will crush, allowing a strong seal.
 

thuglike

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we quit using Cometics years ago...very mixed results regardless of impeccable surface finish & flatness...

basically...any build expected to make >40psi gets fire rings..if we're going to stand behind the work.

As far as driving on stock gskts & H11's (over 40-45psi)...I wouldn't know what to say, other than conservative driving for 10k miles...retorque...another few thousand...retorque...then cross your fingers when you lay into it...

I have been over 60 lbs hundreds of times. Never did a retorque.

I never even think about it anymore, been driving it, towing, racing and dynoing for over 6 years with it.
 

TARM

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Thug,

You did this on new OEM gaskets with stud from day one or did you allow some time for them to cure? Or are you talking about original stock gasket seals?
 

Blowby

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I think Jason drove it easy for quite a while when new which seasoned the mating surfaces. :rolleyes:
 

thuglike

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Motor was babied for the first 2500 miles or so.

It actually hit the dyno 2 days after getting home from Houston at fall brawl '06 in Pa.
 

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