The pedal at $25 is a good deal. Check that the switch works by checking with a meter. The TPS resistance should range between about 500 to 5000 ohms resistance or so and should show a smooth increase as you depress the pedal. It varies a bit. Going across one pair should show a fixed 5000 ohms and one of those connection points to the remaining lead will vary resistance from 500 to 5000 or 5000 to 500 ohms depending on which connections you hook up to. Low end resistance can be anywhere from 450 to 1000 ohms and the high end resistance can be from 4500 to 5000 ohms. Factory ones are about 450 to 4500 ohms, aftermarket ones vary.
No throttle response means the Idle Validation Switch needs to be adjusted. The switch tells the PCM the pedal is being depressed. Bend the tab (or install screw) until you hear the switch click when released and when depressed. Repeat several times per adjustment. Try to get it as close as possible and operating every time. If the IVS is bad, there are no replacements available, the factory does no service them. A shot of WD-40 or contact cleaner MAY bring it back to life.
A supplier had them twice (from the oem maker, Cutler-Hammer) but quickly sold out each time. One reason the factory still has the complete pedal assembly priced at only $400 skins.
The Throttle Position Switch (actually a potentiometer) tells the PCM where the pedal position is. The switch is a 5 volt circuit. You need to tap into the output lead of the TPS (or use a scanner that reads TPS output in voltage, not percent. Mine read 100% but was only 3.5 volts) to see what the output voltage is at full throttle. The wire is grey/white at the TPS plug. Don't cut the wire, just tap into it. Ideally, it should be between 4.25-4.5 volts at full depression. The internet says any more (like above 4.6 or so) the PCM reverts back to idle state, not good. :badidea:
The TPS switches are available from the aftermarket for $30-40 or so. Dealer doesn't service these either.
