AC recharge in a can?

6.0 Tech

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For what its worth, fords spec for temp drop is 40 degrees. So at 102, it should be blowing a maximum of 62, however that is with max AC on. Fresh air will skew the numbers, as you are not cooling colder air. The max AC as said turns recirc on, in doing that it will be cooling cabin air only, which as you drive should be dropping in temp, where with the fresh air on, the longer you drive, it may get hotter.

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BIG JUICE

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so I read this post the other day and didn't have any thing helpful to add. However today I got call from dealer that my evap core needs replacement. I had a small leak apparently and at 10k miles a little refrigerant was added and its been good until this week. I have 42k miles now and the air works or it don't. I was thinking refrigerant level or the controller but not a evap core. but after reading this thread it might be more common than I had imagined. I wish the best for you guys but check for leak in evaporator.
 

RyanD

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guess I’m letting the dealer tear into my truck then. Not super happy about that, but at the rate it’s losing coolant I need to get it done quickly.
 

Rossterman

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As said above, you need a set of gauges to determine what is going on. Once you have readings, folks here can help point to how to repair your situation. Harbor frieght makes a usable set for $80 (less if you use one of their coupons). A/C isn’t that technical that you need to pay someone $1000s to diagnose and repair it. Also add some leak dye to the system now so if it turns out it’s undercharged, you can determine the leak location. Two common ones are the high and low pressure schrader valves used to fill and drain the system. You can simply pour a little water down the fitting and see if any bubbles come out. Make sure to use a paper towel to remove and completely dry the area before installing the dustcaps back on though.

Also, stay away from those recharge cans with leak seal. These typically do more harm then good by gumming up the internals.
 
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