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#1
01-11-2017, 07:17 PM
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Turbo removal. Quick question
Removing the turbo on my 94 to do a head gasket and I can not get the back drive side turbo pedistol bolt off. I have a 10mm swivel socket and all sorts of extensions on a little ratchet. Just wondering what the best way is to get to the bolt. Is the pic I have below the way to get to it, or am I suppose to go between where the exhaust manifolds come together then back towards the front of the truck
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#2
01-11-2017, 09:18 PM
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That's where I just took mine out to Donny efuel mod. I took a 10", 3/8" drive extension and ground the edges of the extension to give it more "flex"
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RIP Zack Freeman & Dustin Malson 8-14-10, California 200 1997 f250 HD ccsb, 140k idm, diy e-fuel, diy intake w/6637, 3.5" dp, 5" exhaust, 6" superlift, 2" bd lift  , 35" Cooper discovery a/t's on 16" alcoa's, 2007 lariat interior.
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#3
01-11-2017, 09:41 PM
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And the bolt is just on the other side of that cylinder that is in there behind/ under the turbo?
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#4
01-12-2017, 06:42 PM
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I found that a 12-point 10mm swivel socket worked better than a 6-point socket. It just had a bit more flexibility in positioning the socket. I basically just used a "feel" approach to getting the socket on the bolt head (just as in your photo). Cheers!
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1997 F250 SC 4x4, E4OD, 4.10 LS, Basically Stock, Relocated Block Heater Plug, External Trans Filter, Tru-Cool Max, I/C Mounted but not Plumbed SOLD - 1994 F350 CC DRW 2WD PSD, 5 Speed, 4.10 LS, SBC Con-O, Baldwin Filter, Tymar HPX Hose, DPPI DP, Bilsteins, $12 AIC, Coolant Filter, Explorer Overhead Console, A-Pillar w/ISSPRO Black Ice, EV Boost, and EV Pyro, Modified Pedestal, Gutted EBPV.
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#5
01-13-2017, 06:02 AM
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If you are using a 1/4" drive swivel and extension, use an adaptor to 3/8" drive ratchet for more leverage. you will need it. Not only hard to get to but pretty tight.
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97 California truck 400hp throught the stock muffler.
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#6
01-13-2017, 06:07 PM
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Quote:
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#7
01-13-2017, 07:03 PM
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you blew a head gasket?
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Quote:
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#8
01-22-2017, 01:53 AM
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Take the turbo off of the pedestal first using a 10mm ratcheting wrench on the four bolts holding the turbo to the pedestal.
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#9
01-22-2017, 09:36 AM
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Pretty difficult if not impossible to get to the turbo-to-pedestal bolts since they go in from the bottom (especially with the fuel pump and lines installed). Cheers!
__________________
1997 F250 SC 4x4, E4OD, 4.10 LS, Basically Stock, Relocated Block Heater Plug, External Trans Filter, Tru-Cool Max, I/C Mounted but not Plumbed SOLD - 1994 F350 CC DRW 2WD PSD, 5 Speed, 4.10 LS, SBC Con-O, Baldwin Filter, Tymar HPX Hose, DPPI DP, Bilsteins, $12 AIC, Coolant Filter, Explorer Overhead Console, A-Pillar w/ISSPRO Black Ice, EV Boost, and EV Pyro, Modified Pedestal, Gutted EBPV.
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#10
01-22-2017, 12:54 PM
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I've wandered about trying it that way, but I figure if it were that easy, people would already be doing it that way. Couldn't find anyone who has actually tried it.
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2003 F250 KR SCSB FX4 Depleted, studded, airdog (which isn't currently hooked up), fass regulated return, airaide, 4 inch straight pipe with mbrp muffler(so on to go), glowchit pyro, fuel, boost, and trans temp. (Of course don't work lol) Hercules terra track A/T2 315/70/17. 2013 Honda pilot Touring http://badges.fuelly.com/images/sig-us/778639.png http://badges.fuelly.com/images/sig-us/776628.png
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