While the engine's out

Here soon I will be pulling my 7.3L out of my early 99 F350 and prepping it to go into my Excursion after the snow stops. While its out I was going to replace the turbo o rings (leaking now), the up pipe gaskets (also leaking) and HPOP gaskets since they were leaking when a bolt backed out and all i did was screw it back in. I'm also thinking new valve cover harnesses.

Anything else I should think about doing? its basically stock now. I'll also be swapping all the electronics and fuel system since its going into a gas Excursion if there are any suggestions for those.

This is my first diesel project so even simple mods would be appreciated cause I wouldnt know them yet

Thanks

I would make sure your oil pan isn't rotted, they're kinda notorious for rotting out

Injectors, H2E turbo, headstuds, and valve springs. Swap a BTS tranny in there to bolt it up to. A 4 inch exhaust system, a good intake system. Swap out that stock 15º HPOP for an Adrenaline. Good to go.


Actually, just check it all over really good. Any issues you think you see, fix them on the stand. Much easier. Although you can actually do everything except pull the oil pan with the motor in the truck. Good luck, I think you got a good run on things.

Arisley said:

Injectors, H2E turbo, headstuds, and valve springs. Swap a BTS tranny in there to bolt it up to. A 4 inch exhaust system, a good intake system. Swap out that stock 15º HPOP for an Adrenaline. Good to go.


Actually, just check it all over really good. Any issues you think you see, fix them on the stand. Much easier. Although you can actually do everything except pull the oil pan with the motor in the truck. Good luck, I think you got a good run on things.

Click to expand...

:whs:

Or just some custam tunes on a chip.... Just to get the HP bug going..

Oil pan gasket is a great idea. What do you guys think about POR-15 or something like that for painting the oil pan to prevent rot out?

For the trans I got a clutch kit and X6TC converter from racer x. I'm rebuilding it myself.

For the engine I have a 4" turbo back exhaust, a TS 6 position chip that I'm probably getting tunes on from PHP, and a cold air intake system.

So questions I have:
I'll probably be out of money at that point but what would a new HPOP do for me?
Any links to good headstud kits? I didnt know 7.3L's had any issues with headgaskets?
Why valvesprings? Mine have 200k on them so you think they're worn?

Great responses guys, keep em coming cause I really appreciate the feedback!

Headstuds and valve springs are just fine at stock or anywhere near stock levels. Once you get into the higher HP more boost levels (40 lbs or higher) studs help keep the heads attached to the block. Springs help the valves close a lot faster and tighter.

If there is any sign of rust at all on the oil pan, replace the whole thing.

I'd also do the oil cooler O rings while you have the motor out.

I would take a look at all the exhaust manifold bolts and maybe even replace them and put some anti-seize on them in the case that they ever need to come off. If they don't need replacing maybe just throw some anti-seize on them for good measure. Good luck!

Sounds like you got a good plan for sure, yeah anything that looks rusty i'd clean up or replace, no one likes rusted bolts.

Are there any cheap mods to be done while its out? tthings like delete intake air heaters (which i dont have on my model)?

I was looking at regulated fuel return systems and had some options:
1. riffraff frx - is this worth anything?
or
2. DIY a regulated return myself
I have to install a fuel system from scratch anyhow, so it seems like I could piece a system together for 150-200 myself. Am I being foolish to think this would be easy?

It's not hard, but it does take some fabbing.

A good thing to inspect is the oil cooler on the drivers side of the engine block ANY sign of rust or oil residue change it while its out, manifold studs are a good idea that dont cost much. Ill repeat it like everyone else ANY sign of rust on the oil pan just change it dont try painting it or coating it they are only $130 or less just do it trust us!!

GTOKILLER said:

A good thing to inspect is the oil cooler on the drivers side of the engine block ANY sign of rust or oil residue change it while its out, manifold studs are a good idea that dont cost much. Ill repeat it like everyone else ANY sign of rust on the oil pan just change it dont try painting it or coating it they are only $130 or less just do it trust us!!

Click to expand...

Not sure where you're at, but +1 on the oil pan. Mine had a little rust on it when I got it, and in 1 winter it got 3x worse. I have since stripped it to the best of my ability and painted it, but I'm sure it's only going to delay the inevitable. wned:

I plan to pull the engine at some point and swap the block with a forged one, and I plan a brand new, probably powder-coated or re-painted oil pan when I do.

ToMang07 said:

Not sure where you're at, but +1 on the oil pan. Mine had a little rust on it when I got it, and in 1 winter it got 3x worse. I have since stripped it to the best of my ability and painted it, but I'm sure it's only going to delay the inevitable. wned:

I plan to pull the engine at some point and swap the block with a forged one, and I plan a brand new, probably powder-coated or re-painted oil pan when I do.

Click to expand...

Rust? Whats that? :morons:

This is kinda what rust looks like?? right??

My 'while you are in there' list would include:
- HPO o-rings everywhere (I think I replaced them one-by-one on my dually)
- rebuild fuel bowl - new o-rings on water drain, remove or replace fuel bowl heater and all new vibra-loc sleeves
- replace GP's
- check torque on injector hold downs and rockers
- Melling LPOP
- prep and paint the oil pan (fwiw, the metal is not the problem - its the coating! POR15 or Line-X should be good for any climate, good prep and Rustoluem are adequate for the south/non-rustbelt areas)
- fix leaky up-pipes with at least new doughnuts, but new bellowed pipes will last the longest (I heard Jake will have an inexpensive option for that soon? not sure about E99 though...)
- upgrade CAC boots and add plenum inserts so you can use better clamps down there
- rebuild oil cooler
- put a valve on the heater core supply line. Closing this in summer makes AC colder!
- rebuild the turbo (under $100)
- ceramic coat exhaust manifolds, up-pipes and turbo exhaust housing w/Turbo X (http://www.techlinecoatings.com/hi-performance/bs-exhaust-system-coatings.html)
- I would paint, powder coat or polish everything I took off (its a sickness for me) Specifically VC's, accessory brackets, 5-way plenum, CAC tubes and the block.
- replace high-pressure line on power steering pump ($30ish - both of my PSD's failed without warning)
- upgrade HPOP. At least to a 17* pump. This extra HPO should help 'wake up' your truck a little and deliver better MPG's and lower EGT's.
- If you are deleting fuel bowl heater, AIH, EBPV, WG, etc - modify the wire harness with resistors while harness is off the engine!
- INJECTOR CUPS, so you can use ELC!!!
- in-tank and pre-pump fuel mods (just don't use a 'primary' filter pre-pump - all ya need here is a strainer to protect the pump. The PSD pump doesn't really like to suck thru a filter)

I have to install a fuel system from scratch anyhow, so it seems like I could piece a system together for 150-200 myself. Am I being foolish to think this would be easy?

Click to expand...

No need for reg-return on a stockish truck. If you are really concerned about what little air might get in the rails, the Frx is a cheap warm, fuzzy feeling. I wouldn't bother with any of it unless ya plan to make big HP. The stock plumbing is nearly bulletproof and causes very few problems. That said, if ya need new fuel lines or are deleting the fuel bowl anyway - ya might as well! I would not use rubber hoses myself (we've seen a number of failures, its not pretty). Use PTFE-lined, SS braided hoses with swivel JIC ends. You can DIY these yourself from www.discounthydraulichose.com - or have hoses made at any hose shop. IIRC, a good FPR costs almost as much as your DIY budget - then ya need fittings and hoses, so it might be better to buy a kit from someone. (I still think thats a few $100 better spent elsewhere)

I'm not sure I would invest in VC gaskets or UVCH's. I would do the $0.50 mod to make sure UVCH's don't come unplugged. The probability of these failing is low and they aren't really that hard to change in truck.




Build a boost leak detector and make sure ya don't have any boost leaks when ya put it back together:



I was out of time and this was all I could get done on the F350's engine:



on edit: I would only remove oil pan if it was leaking. If ya do pull it, be sure to use the Motorcraft sealant for this application (TA-31??)

As I think about it........ I probably have everything you need to go to a late-'99 turbo set-up if you are interested. Exhaust manifold, stock uppies, EBPV-deleted pedestal, plenums and even a van turbo. :naughty:

SkySki Jason said:

My 'while you are in there' list would include:
- HPO o-rings everywhere (I think I replaced them one-by-one on my dually)
- rebuild fuel bowl - new o-rings on water drain, remove or replace fuel bowl heater and all new vibra-loc sleeves
- replace GP's
- check torque on injector hold downs and rockers
- Melling LPOP
- prep and paint the oil pan (fwiw, the metal is not the problem - its the coating! POR15 or Line-X should be good for any climate, good prep and Rustoluem are adequate for the south/non-rustbelt areas)
- fix leaky up-pipes with at least new doughnuts, but new bellowed pipes will last the longest (I heard Jake will have an inexpensive option for that soon? not sure about E99 though...)
- upgrade CAC boots and add plenum inserts so you can use better clamps down there
- rebuild oil cooler
- put a valve on the heater core supply line. Closing this in summer makes AC colder!
- rebuild the turbo (under $100)
- ceramic coat exhaust manifolds, up-pipes and turbo exhaust housing w/Turbo X (http://www.techlinecoatings.com/hi-performance/bs-exhaust-system-coatings.html)
- I would paint, powder coat or polish everything I took off (its a sickness for me) Specifically VC's, accessory brackets, 5-way plenum, CAC tubes and the block.
- replace high-pressure line on power steering pump ($30ish - both of my PSD's failed without warning)
- upgrade HPOP. At least to a 17* pump. This extra HPO should help 'wake up' your truck a little and deliver better MPG's and lower EGT's.
- If you are deleting fuel bowl heater, AIH, EBPV, WG, etc - modify the wire harness with resistors while harness is off the engine!
- INJECTOR CUPS, so you can use ELC!!!
- in-tank and pre-pump fuel mods (just don't use a 'primary' filter pre-pump - all ya need here is a strainer to protect the pump. The PSD pump doesn't really like to suck thru a filter)


No need for reg-return on a stockish truck. If you are really concerned about what little air might get in the rails, the Frx is a cheap warm, fuzzy feeling. I wouldn't bother with any of it unless ya plan to make big HP. The stock plumbing is nearly bulletproof and causes very few problems. That said, if ya need new fuel lines or are deleting the fuel bowl anyway - ya might as well! I would not use rubber hoses myself (we've seen a number of failures, its not pretty). Use PTFE-lined, SS braided hoses with swivel JIC ends. You can DIY these yourself from www.discounthydraulichose.com - or have hoses made at any hose shop. IIRC, a good FPR costs almost as much as your DIY budget - then ya need fittings and hoses, so it might be better to buy a kit from someone. (I still think thats a few $100 better spent elsewhere)

I'm not sure I would invest in VC gaskets or UVCH's. I would do the $0.50 mod to make sure UVCH's don't come unplugged. The probability of these failing is low and they aren't really that hard to change in truck.

on edit: I would only remove oil pan if it was leaking. If ya do pull it, be sure to use the Motorcraft sealant for this application (TA-31??)

Click to expand...

Lots of good tips here... I will try to keep this in mind when I end up pulling mine out to switch blocks....I like the paint scheme, too!

definitely do exh manifold gaskets...anitsieze on new bolts, and possibly a Melling LPOil pump since access will never be easier...