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  #1  
Old 07-20-2012, 06:52 PM
TARM TARM is offline
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Default 4R100 Rebuild Manual for the DIY

This is going to be a thread where myself and a few guys have decided to create a step by step manual for doing a complete 4r100 transmission rebuild.

The idea is to make it as clear and with as much detail as possible covering all aspects of it from removal and install from/back into the truck, dis-assembly, cleaning, rebuilding, upgrades, tools etc.

WE would be happy for anyone to help out and share knowledge they have tips tricks that make the job easier. Anything that would be positively constructive. But if you are just coming in to say its better to buy a BTS JW etc or to be negative about the idea then please just keep on moving along to another thread. If it does get mucked up with any BS we will have one of the mods clean it up. The idea is to minimize as much of the confusion and difficulty in knowing the proper steps etc as possible. At the end of this we plan to take all the info and put it into a logical order to create a step by step online manual of sorts for doing a 4r100 trans build yourself if you so choose or need to do so.


If you reading this thread and want to post please be sure to check the last post as one of us may be posting up a number of steps that take more than one post to conclude and we want them to be in order. There will be a message at the beginning and ending of the thread asking people to please not post until the last post is complete and there is no message on it not to post.
__________________
01' Excursion (forged): ********'s tuning, GTX4294r-1.15t4, Nate's Stage 5 Firehoses 465cc/200%, Stealth's SP1, ARP Studs, 910's (shimmed), DI Pushrods (SAE 4130 CM), Full Custom Fuel System, aFe-Big Boost, DE 4" Exhaust, BTS Trans, 99'-04' V code front/08'F code rear spring swap, PMF 4"Hanger-Shackle kit/5"Rear Blocks, Custom Valved Blistien's, Rear Sway bar, Bushwhackers Cut-out Flares, Fuel Hostage 20"x12" Black Wheels, Interco M16 40"x14.50"x20" Tires
  #2  
Old 07-20-2012, 09:13 PM
TARM TARM is offline
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Default 4R100 Disassembly Pictorial

This contains a step by step picture guide for the complete disassembly of the 4r100 transmission. There will be very little text other than what is in the pictures. Will be adding in text procedures to accompany the pictures at a later date.

Pictures are courtesy of TwistWrench



4R100 Disassembly

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__________________
01' Excursion (forged): ********'s tuning, GTX4294r-1.15t4, Nate's Stage 5 Firehoses 465cc/200%, Stealth's SP1, ARP Studs, 910's (shimmed), DI Pushrods (SAE 4130 CM), Full Custom Fuel System, aFe-Big Boost, DE 4" Exhaust, BTS Trans, 99'-04' V code front/08'F code rear spring swap, PMF 4"Hanger-Shackle kit/5"Rear Blocks, Custom Valved Blistien's, Rear Sway bar, Bushwhackers Cut-out Flares, Fuel Hostage 20"x12" Black Wheels, Interco M16 40"x14.50"x20" Tires
  #3  
Old 07-20-2012, 09:14 PM
TARM TARM is offline
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Default 4R100 Disassembly Pictorial

4R100 Disassembly

Part 2 of 3

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__________________
01' Excursion (forged): ********'s tuning, GTX4294r-1.15t4, Nate's Stage 5 Firehoses 465cc/200%, Stealth's SP1, ARP Studs, 910's (shimmed), DI Pushrods (SAE 4130 CM), Full Custom Fuel System, aFe-Big Boost, DE 4" Exhaust, BTS Trans, 99'-04' V code front/08'F code rear spring swap, PMF 4"Hanger-Shackle kit/5"Rear Blocks, Custom Valved Blistien's, Rear Sway bar, Bushwhackers Cut-out Flares, Fuel Hostage 20"x12" Black Wheels, Interco M16 40"x14.50"x20" Tires
  #4  
Old 07-20-2012, 09:14 PM
TARM TARM is offline
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Default 4R100 Disassembly Pictorial

4R100 Disassembly

Part 3 of 3

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__________________
01' Excursion (forged): ********'s tuning, GTX4294r-1.15t4, Nate's Stage 5 Firehoses 465cc/200%, Stealth's SP1, ARP Studs, 910's (shimmed), DI Pushrods (SAE 4130 CM), Full Custom Fuel System, aFe-Big Boost, DE 4" Exhaust, BTS Trans, 99'-04' V code front/08'F code rear spring swap, PMF 4"Hanger-Shackle kit/5"Rear Blocks, Custom Valved Blistien's, Rear Sway bar, Bushwhackers Cut-out Flares, Fuel Hostage 20"x12" Black Wheels, Interco M16 40"x14.50"x20" Tires
  #5  
Old 07-20-2012, 11:07 PM
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dentexpowerstroke dentexpowerstroke is offline
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Default

Can you also add what tools you used in each picture? Would be much appreciated.
__________________
01 f250 ccsb 4x4 400/400, twin terminators, s480, bts and supporting mods --- sold

2006 ccsb f250 155s and powermax

2012 ccsb lariat ultimate
  #6  
Old 07-20-2012, 11:25 PM
TARM TARM is offline
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Default Exploded Parts view and list

Exploded Parts View and List




Outer Casing View


Images 1-5





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Outer Casing: 2




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Valve Body Exploded View & Parts List


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FORD 4R100

MAIN, LOWER, AND ACCUMULATOR VALVE BODY LEGEND


Item Description Item Description

1 LOWER VALVE BODY CASTING
2 HEX HEAD BOLT, (2 REQUIRED)
3 RETAINING PLATE
4 MANUAL 1-2 TRANSITION VALVE SPRING
5 MANUAL 1-2 TRANSITION VALVE
6 SPRING CLIP BORE PLUG RETAINER
7 ENGAGEMENT VALVE BORE PLUG
8 ENGAGEMENT VALVE SPRING
9 ENGAGEMENT VALVE
10 MAIN VALVE BODY CASTING
11 CHECK-BALL 1/4", (2 REQUIRED)
12 CHECK-BALL 5/16", (2 REQUIRED)
13 MANUAL CONTROL VALVE
14 MANUAL VALVE "E" CLIP
15 SPRING CLIP BORE PLUG RETAINER
16 LOW REVERSE MODULATOR VALVE SLEEVE
17 LOW REVERSE MODULATOR VALVE PLUNGER
18 LOW MODULATOR VALVE SPRING
19 LOW MODULATOR VALVE
20 LOW REVERSE MODULATOR VALVE
21 SPRING CLIP BORE PLUG RETAINER
22 3-4 SHIFT VALVE BORE PLUG
23 3-4 SHIFT VALVE SPRING
24 3-4 SHIFT VALVE
25 2-3 SHIFT VALVE SPRING RETAINING PLATE
26 2-3 SHIFT VALVE SPRING
27 2-3 SHIFT VALVE
28 SOLENOID REGULATOR VALVE SPRING RETAINING PLATE
29 SOLENOID REGULATOR VALVE SPRING
30 SOLENOID REGULATOR VALVE
31 COAST CLUTCH SHIFT VALVE SPRING RETAINING PLATE
32 COAST CLUTCH SHIFT VALVE SPRING
33 COAST CLUTCH SHIFT VALVE
34 4-3-2 SHIFT TIMING CONTROL VALVE PLUNGER RETAINING PLATE
35 4-3-2 SHIFT TIMING CONTROL VALVE PLUNGER SPRING
36 4-3-2 SHIFT TIMING CONTROL VALVE PLUNGER
37 4-3-2 SHIFT TIMING VALVE RETAINING PLATE
38 4-3-2 SHIFT TIMING VALVE
39 4-3-2 SHIFT TIMING VALVE SPRING
40 SPRING CLIP BORE PLUG RETAINER
41 1-2 SHIFT VALVE BORE PLUG
42 DRIVE 2 VALVE
43 1-2 SHIFT VALVE
44 1-2 SHIFT VALVE SPRING
46 ACCUMULATOR VALVE BODY CASTING (MODEL SENSITIVE)
47 SPRING CLIP BORE PLUG RETAINER
48 DIRECT CLUTCH ACCUMULATOR REGULATOR PLUNGER BORE PLUG
49 DIRECT CLUTCH ACCUMULATOR REGULATOR PLUNGER SPRING
50 DIRECT CLUTCH ACCUMULATOR REGULATOR PLUNGER
51 DIRECT CLUTCH ACCUMULATOR REGULATOR VALVE RETAINER
52 DIRECT CLUTCH ACCUMULATOR REGULATOR VALVE SPRING
53 DIRECT CLUTCH ACCUMULATOR REGULATOR VALVE
54 SPRING CLIP BORE PLUG RETAINER
55 O.D. CLUTCH ACCUMULATOR REGULATOR PLUNGER BORE PLUG
56 O.D. CLUTCH ACCUMULATOR REGULATOR PLUNGER SPRING
57 O.D. CLUTCH ACCUMULATOR REGULATOR PLUNGER
58 O.D. CLUTCH ACCUMULATOR REGULATOR VALVE RETAINER
59 O.D. CLUTCH ACCUMULATOR REGULATOR VALVE SPRING
60 O.D. CLUTCH ACCUMULATOR REGULATOR VALVE
61 SPRING CLIP BORE PLUG RETAINER
62 INT. CLUTCH ACCUMULATOR REGULATOR PLUNGER BORE PLUG
63 INT. CLUTCH ACCUMULATOR REGULATOR PLUNGER SPRING
64 INT. CLUTCH ACCUMULATOR REGULATOR PLUNGER
65 INT. CLUTCH ACCUMULATOR REGULATOR VALVE RETAINER
66 INT. CLUTCH ACCUMULATOR REGULATOR VALVE SPRING
67 INT. CLUTCH ACCUMULATOR REGULATOR VALVE
68 SPRING CLIP BORE PLUG RETAINER
69 LINE PRESSURE MODULATOR SLEEVE
70 LINE PRESSURE MODULATOR PLUNGER
71 LINE PRESSURE MODULATOR SPRING AND RETAINER ASSEMBLY
72 LINE PRESSURE MODULATOR VALVE SPRING
73 LINE PRESSURE MODULATOR VALVE
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION















Pump Exploded View


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Pump Exploded View: 1




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Pump Exploded View: 3




1 PRESSURE REGULATOR VALVE
2 PRESSURE REGULATOR VALVE SPRING RETAINER
3 PRESSURE REGULATOR VALVE OUTER SPRING
4 PRESSURE REGULATOR VALVE INNER SPRING
5 PRESSURE REGULATOR BOOST VALVE
6 PRESSURE REGULATOR BOOST VALVE SLEEVE
7 PRESSURE REGULATOR BOOST VALVE SLEEVE SNAP RING
8 CONVERTER CLUTCH REGULATOR VALVE
9 CONVERTER CLUTCH REGULATOR VALVE SPRING
10 CONVERTER CLUTCH REGULATOR VALVE BORE PLUG
11 BORE PLUG RETAINER
12 CONVERTER CLUTCH CONTROL VALVE ("ON-OFF" ONLY)
13 CONVERTER CLUTCH CONTROL SPRING ("ON-OFF" ONLY)
14 CONVERTER CLUTCH CONTROL VALVE BORE PLUG
15 CONVERTER CLUTCH CONTROL VALVE LINE-UP ("PWM" ONLY)













Check Ball Locations Valve Body Exploded View


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Sonnax Sure Cure Shift Kit SC-4R100


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Clutch Clearance Set Up Specs


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Clutch Clearance Set Up: 8




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If you find things like this on piston surfaces, do NOT just pass it and let it go. it will cause early failure.

Polish it smooth and evenly or replace it if in question. they are not worth guessing over.
__________________
01' Excursion (forged): ********'s tuning, GTX4294r-1.15t4, Nate's Stage 5 Firehoses 465cc/200%, Stealth's SP1, ARP Studs, 910's (shimmed), DI Pushrods (SAE 4130 CM), Full Custom Fuel System, aFe-Big Boost, DE 4" Exhaust, BTS Trans, 99'-04' V code front/08'F code rear spring swap, PMF 4"Hanger-Shackle kit/5"Rear Blocks, Custom Valved Blistien's, Rear Sway bar, Bushwhackers Cut-out Flares, Fuel Hostage 20"x12" Black Wheels, Interco M16 40"x14.50"x20" Tires
  #7  
Old 07-21-2012, 03:08 AM
TARM TARM is offline
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Default 4R100 Reassembly/Rebuild Pictorial

4R100 Reassembly/Rebuild

Part 1 of 6

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__________________
01' Excursion (forged): ********'s tuning, GTX4294r-1.15t4, Nate's Stage 5 Firehoses 465cc/200%, Stealth's SP1, ARP Studs, 910's (shimmed), DI Pushrods (SAE 4130 CM), Full Custom Fuel System, aFe-Big Boost, DE 4" Exhaust, BTS Trans, 99'-04' V code front/08'F code rear spring swap, PMF 4"Hanger-Shackle kit/5"Rear Blocks, Custom Valved Blistien's, Rear Sway bar, Bushwhackers Cut-out Flares, Fuel Hostage 20"x12" Black Wheels, Interco M16 40"x14.50"x20" Tires
  #8  
Old 07-21-2012, 03:10 AM
TARM TARM is offline
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Default 4R100 Reassembly/Rebuild Pictorial

4R100 Reassembly/Rebuild

Part 2 of 6

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__________________
01' Excursion (forged): ********'s tuning, GTX4294r-1.15t4, Nate's Stage 5 Firehoses 465cc/200%, Stealth's SP1, ARP Studs, 910's (shimmed), DI Pushrods (SAE 4130 CM), Full Custom Fuel System, aFe-Big Boost, DE 4" Exhaust, BTS Trans, 99'-04' V code front/08'F code rear spring swap, PMF 4"Hanger-Shackle kit/5"Rear Blocks, Custom Valved Blistien's, Rear Sway bar, Bushwhackers Cut-out Flares, Fuel Hostage 20"x12" Black Wheels, Interco M16 40"x14.50"x20" Tires
  #9  
Old 07-21-2012, 03:12 AM
TARM TARM is offline
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Default 4R100 Reassembly/Rebuild Pictorial

4R100 Reassembly/Rebuild

Part 3 of 6

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__________________
01' Excursion (forged): ********'s tuning, GTX4294r-1.15t4, Nate's Stage 5 Firehoses 465cc/200%, Stealth's SP1, ARP Studs, 910's (shimmed), DI Pushrods (SAE 4130 CM), Full Custom Fuel System, aFe-Big Boost, DE 4" Exhaust, BTS Trans, 99'-04' V code front/08'F code rear spring swap, PMF 4"Hanger-Shackle kit/5"Rear Blocks, Custom Valved Blistien's, Rear Sway bar, Bushwhackers Cut-out Flares, Fuel Hostage 20"x12" Black Wheels, Interco M16 40"x14.50"x20" Tires
  #10  
Old 07-21-2012, 03:13 AM
TARM TARM is offline
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Default 4R100 Reassembly/Rebuild Pictorial

4R100 Reassembly/Rebuild

Part 4 of 6

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__________________
01' Excursion (forged): ********'s tuning, GTX4294r-1.15t4, Nate's Stage 5 Firehoses 465cc/200%, Stealth's SP1, ARP Studs, 910's (shimmed), DI Pushrods (SAE 4130 CM), Full Custom Fuel System, aFe-Big Boost, DE 4" Exhaust, BTS Trans, 99'-04' V code front/08'F code rear spring swap, PMF 4"Hanger-Shackle kit/5"Rear Blocks, Custom Valved Blistien's, Rear Sway bar, Bushwhackers Cut-out Flares, Fuel Hostage 20"x12" Black Wheels, Interco M16 40"x14.50"x20" Tires
  #11  
Old 07-21-2012, 03:15 AM
TARM TARM is offline
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Default 4R100 Reassembly/Rebuild Pictorial

4R100 Reassembly/Rebuild

Part 5 of 6

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__________________
01' Excursion (forged): ********'s tuning, GTX4294r-1.15t4, Nate's Stage 5 Firehoses 465cc/200%, Stealth's SP1, ARP Studs, 910's (shimmed), DI Pushrods (SAE 4130 CM), Full Custom Fuel System, aFe-Big Boost, DE 4" Exhaust, BTS Trans, 99'-04' V code front/08'F code rear spring swap, PMF 4"Hanger-Shackle kit/5"Rear Blocks, Custom Valved Blistien's, Rear Sway bar, Bushwhackers Cut-out Flares, Fuel Hostage 20"x12" Black Wheels, Interco M16 40"x14.50"x20" Tires
  #12  
Old 07-21-2012, 03:17 AM
TARM TARM is offline
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Default 4R100 Reassembly/Rebuild Pictorial

4R100 Reassembly/Rebuild

Part 6 of 6

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__________________
01' Excursion (forged): ********'s tuning, GTX4294r-1.15t4, Nate's Stage 5 Firehoses 465cc/200%, Stealth's SP1, ARP Studs, 910's (shimmed), DI Pushrods (SAE 4130 CM), Full Custom Fuel System, aFe-Big Boost, DE 4" Exhaust, BTS Trans, 99'-04' V code front/08'F code rear spring swap, PMF 4"Hanger-Shackle kit/5"Rear Blocks, Custom Valved Blistien's, Rear Sway bar, Bushwhackers Cut-out Flares, Fuel Hostage 20"x12" Black Wheels, Interco M16 40"x14.50"x20" Tires
  #13  
Old 07-21-2012, 03:36 AM
TARM TARM is offline
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Default 4R100 Homemade Tools

4R100 Homemade Tools

Images: 1-9




To rebuild the 4r100 there are a few tools that make life much better. They are very simple tools to fab up your self.


To service the reverse clutch piston seals you will need 2- 3 inch or longer 5/16 24 all thread studs. I didn’t have in my supplies and couldn’t find any at my local hardware store so I simple took a couple all thread 5/16 18 bolts. Ran a 5/16 24 thread die over them and cut the heads off. Perfect 5/16 24 studs.



To make installing the direct/forward drum a breeze. You can make a simple tool to install them as an assembly.

You can purchase this already made from several suppliers. I made mine from a single stick of 1/8 X 1 ¼ mild steel purchased from the local ace hardware.

I cut one piece at 17 inches and the other at 8.5

The 17 inches piece has bends at about 5 inches on both ends.

The 8.5 inch piece has bends at about 2 inches on each end

Hole drilled in the center of both and the ends of the 17 inch cut out to match the notches in the direct drum.
Works great!


To install the intermediate/ overdrive snap ring you will need a clutch spring compressor. You can buy these from various suppliers. I made mine very simply from a piece of plate aluminum and some tube steel and all thread.

I used the pump itself for a pattern to mark out the brace section and drilled the two holes. Again, using the pump itself for a pattern is suggested to get your bolt hole and length dimensions.

I then ground the ends of the brace/support to match the contour of the transmissions case itself.

Then tapping out the brace for the all thread and welding on a handle.
The flat press plate aluminum disc is simple just to 6 7/8 inches. This can be larger also.

You could use steel for the press plate.


The 4R100 is actually a very easy transmission to rebuild as long as you have a few simple tools to help you. You can purchase them from many suppliers or as here make them easily from some common materials.







4R100 Homemade Tools: 1




4R100 Homemade Tools: 2




4R100 Homemade Tools: 3




4R100 Homemade Tools: 4




4R100 Homemade Tools: 5




4R100 Homemade Tools: 6




4R100 Homemade Tools: 7




4R100 Homemade Tools: 8




4R100 Homemade Tools: 9

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01' Excursion (forged): ********'s tuning, GTX4294r-1.15t4, Nate's Stage 5 Firehoses 465cc/200%, Stealth's SP1, ARP Studs, 910's (shimmed), DI Pushrods (SAE 4130 CM), Full Custom Fuel System, aFe-Big Boost, DE 4" Exhaust, BTS Trans, 99'-04' V code front/08'F code rear spring swap, PMF 4"Hanger-Shackle kit/5"Rear Blocks, Custom Valved Blistien's, Rear Sway bar, Bushwhackers Cut-out Flares, Fuel Hostage 20"x12" Black Wheels, Interco M16 40"x14.50"x20" Tires
  #14  
Old 07-21-2012, 03:38 AM
TARM TARM is offline
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Well that was 10 hours of work to get those posted. I will likely be adding more tomorrow or I guess its now latter today.
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01' Excursion (forged): ********'s tuning, GTX4294r-1.15t4, Nate's Stage 5 Firehoses 465cc/200%, Stealth's SP1, ARP Studs, 910's (shimmed), DI Pushrods (SAE 4130 CM), Full Custom Fuel System, aFe-Big Boost, DE 4" Exhaust, BTS Trans, 99'-04' V code front/08'F code rear spring swap, PMF 4"Hanger-Shackle kit/5"Rear Blocks, Custom Valved Blistien's, Rear Sway bar, Bushwhackers Cut-out Flares, Fuel Hostage 20"x12" Black Wheels, Interco M16 40"x14.50"x20" Tires
  #15  
Old 07-21-2012, 05:51 AM
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Buffalo444 Buffalo444 is offline
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I like. A lot.
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Old rigs: E99 7.3, 02 7.3, 96 7.3

Current rigs: 1995 CCLB F350 DRW 2wd 460 228k miles

2006 ECLB F250 4x4 6.0 PSD 248k miles
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Old 07-21-2012, 06:11 AM
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Are those all from your personal experience, TARM? Did you use an ATSG?
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Old rigs: E99 7.3, 02 7.3, 96 7.3

Current rigs: 1995 CCLB F350 DRW 2wd 460 228k miles

2006 ECLB F250 4x4 6.0 PSD 248k miles
  #17  
Old 07-21-2012, 11:50 AM
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Tarm ill get some stuff posted up later at some point today.
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01 f250 ccsb 4x4 400/400, twin terminators, s480, bts and supporting mods --- sold

2006 ccsb f250 155s and powermax

2012 ccsb lariat ultimate
  #18  
Old 07-21-2012, 02:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buffalo444 View Post
Are those all from your personal experience, TARM? Did you use an ATSG?

From other places on the forums. A guy by the name of Twistedwrench had put them up over time. I dug them up saved them. Then eventually uploaded to photobucket and finally posted them up here.

All the info I am posting up is what I am finding thru research and net searches. Just want to get it all in one place nicely organized in a step by step format so anyone with a reasonably about of skill and IMO most importantly being willing to stay organized could take on the job and successfully rebuild the 4R100

I need to obtain a ASTG 4R100 Manual so we can work on getting written step by step directions to go along with the pictorial steps. Along with that add in all the other stuff.

List of all tools and sizes not just special tool so a person can have them all laid out ready to go.

Any greases lubricants etc...

Info on the various kits available what is in a full rebuild kit. What other single items you can and when you should upgrade them etc...

All that kind of stuff all in one place nicely organized. That is the goal here. Then to add in any tip or helpful hints and tricks to making the job and outcome easier/better.
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01' Excursion (forged): ********'s tuning, GTX4294r-1.15t4, Nate's Stage 5 Firehoses 465cc/200%, Stealth's SP1, ARP Studs, 910's (shimmed), DI Pushrods (SAE 4130 CM), Full Custom Fuel System, aFe-Big Boost, DE 4" Exhaust, BTS Trans, 99'-04' V code front/08'F code rear spring swap, PMF 4"Hanger-Shackle kit/5"Rear Blocks, Custom Valved Blistien's, Rear Sway bar, Bushwhackers Cut-out Flares, Fuel Hostage 20"x12" Black Wheels, Interco M16 40"x14.50"x20" Tires
  #19  
Old 07-21-2012, 03:41 PM
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Very cool! Just wish there was one of these for a 5r
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  #20  
Old 07-21-2012, 04:22 PM
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Can a mod change the title to say 4R100 / E4OD instead of just 4r100

Thanks.

It would actually be real helpful if the posts in this thread could be left editable and not locked after 30mins. It can take longer than that just to fix one of these posts.
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01' Excursion (forged): ********'s tuning, GTX4294r-1.15t4, Nate's Stage 5 Firehoses 465cc/200%, Stealth's SP1, ARP Studs, 910's (shimmed), DI Pushrods (SAE 4130 CM), Full Custom Fuel System, aFe-Big Boost, DE 4" Exhaust, BTS Trans, 99'-04' V code front/08'F code rear spring swap, PMF 4"Hanger-Shackle kit/5"Rear Blocks, Custom Valved Blistien's, Rear Sway bar, Bushwhackers Cut-out Flares, Fuel Hostage 20"x12" Black Wheels, Interco M16 40"x14.50"x20" Tires
  #21  
Old 07-21-2012, 07:41 PM
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TurboM700 TurboM700 is offline
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This is awesome. I really like the in depth pics.

If/Once you get writing steps down I can take it all and make it into a PDF version with all the pics and description that way if photo bucket every gets screw or something happens to this sight we don't loose everything.

For someone(me) who has an extra 4r100 and is mechanically inclined this is perfect for doing a rebuild.

Thanks TARM
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2001 F350 CC SB 38R,Reg Return,Dp-Tuner,4"
Exhaust, 6637 Air Filter, Phantom II Gauges,
2001 X 12v 4r100, WVO in the works
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300,000 and still get 48 MPG
24' pontoon with a ls1
  #22  
Old 07-21-2012, 08:11 PM
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Don;t you worry I make backups off line everytime I make a change NO WAY I AM LOSING THIS~!!!.

Thanks for the offer. I have the full Adobe but I very likely will be wanting the help so if you can turn it into a ADobe when its ready that could be very helpful. I will let you know. a

About to post up a set of written directions for the E4OD so it should be VERY close. Then we will need to possibly mod them, add some, etc..

Once they are up we need to make a list that matches the steps to the pictures we already have. Take a look at this thread as well http://powerstrokearmy.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=20514 as we kind of use it to talk over what and how we are going to do it and then come into this one to add things and change and however work on getting it setup.


If you are willing to help just jump in and offer it up. Much of the work does not require too much trans knowledge more just knowing how to search and compile the info we need and then get it organized and posted up. Then of course those with the knowledge are needed to making sure the info is correct and what may be missing or needed.
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01' Excursion (forged): ********'s tuning, GTX4294r-1.15t4, Nate's Stage 5 Firehoses 465cc/200%, Stealth's SP1, ARP Studs, 910's (shimmed), DI Pushrods (SAE 4130 CM), Full Custom Fuel System, aFe-Big Boost, DE 4" Exhaust, BTS Trans, 99'-04' V code front/08'F code rear spring swap, PMF 4"Hanger-Shackle kit/5"Rear Blocks, Custom Valved Blistien's, Rear Sway bar, Bushwhackers Cut-out Flares, Fuel Hostage 20"x12" Black Wheels, Interco M16 40"x14.50"x20" Tires
  #23  
Old 07-21-2012, 08:13 PM
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Default E4OD Written Rebuild Directions

Of course we need to go thru this, see if anything need to be added etc. This is something RacerX had posted up years ago. We need to see what it any needs to be changed or added for the 4r100 etc.. But this is a great place to start with info in a written format.






1997 E4OD 4x4 Transmission Rebuild



This is a 1997 E4OD 4X4 model which will be upgraded and strengthened for competition. What’s left of the build tag tells me it was manufactured on June 6 1997. Some chain re-builders remove the tag and discard it making ID more difficult and the exact build date impossible to know. After a thorough exterior cleaning, it will be dried and taken in for disassembly.






Rebuild



  1. After removing the pan and draining the remaining ATF the filter is pulled from the pump inlet. The torque converter and input shaft are simply pulled from the pump and have also been removed.

  2. At the front of the case the Accumulator body is removed first.

  3. Next is the main valve body. Tip: The valve body has 2 tiers, DO NOT remove the upper tier or 2-5 check balls can fall out. Remove the valve body as one unit checking your work as you remove bolts in the upper tier, 2 short bolts hold it to the main body. The 2 short bolts that keep the upper tier bolted to the main body are shown in the photo. One by my thumb and one in the front corner.

  4. Next out is the solenoid pack. These are the solenoids electronically controlled by the PCM. An o-ring sealed connector goes thru the top of the case and connects to the PCM harness.

  5. The separator plate is next and is retained by 3 bolts on a smaller plate at the very rear of the case. Caution: Under the plate are 8-10 check balls, a spring and filter (model dependant).

  6. After removing the separator plate, the check balls and spring are carefully removed. Remaining are 3 feed bolts, the linkage and the servo piston which I choose to leave in at this time to keep tension on the band and support the gear train. By choice I also leave the linkage in until final cleaning of the case. The 3 feed bolts are removed now and are shown in the circle shaped bores below the pump inlet hole at the center front of the case.

  7. Now we move to the front of the case. The pump bolts are removed and 2 slide hammer adapters are threaded into the pump’s case and used to pull the pump from its bore.

  8. Slide hammers are removed and the pump is lifted out. A thrust washer and needle bearing will either remain on the pump or fall into the case. The backside of the pump. Notice the casting # has been machined off making ID more difficult. This is important as early E4OD’s had lower output pumps and won’t be suitable for this build. A head count of these bolts and the teeth on the internal gears tell me this one is the higher output design. Next is the coast clutch drum. It just lifts out.

  9. The overdrive pressure plate and clutch pack plates are retained by a snap ring in the case bore. The ring is removed and out they come. The overdrive ring gear and center shaft are pulled out next. There will be a needle bearing that will remain on the shaft or fall into the case. What you see below are the intermediate and overdrive cylinder assembly, and front of the center support. Now special service tools are needed.

  10. A clutch spring fixture tool has been installed and the intermediate cylinder spring plate has been compressed so the cylinder retaining ring can be removed.

  11. After the tool is removed so is the ring.

  12. Now the cylinder can be taken out as well as the return spring below it.

  13. The Center Support is removed next (Rear side shown). A thrust washer will remain on the CS or be in the case. Notice the ball bearing in the center hub. Early models didn’t come with a bearing and had fewer case contact areas. Case failure was a result. The early units can be corrected.

  14. Now that I have removed the center support I return to the worm tracks of the valve body and pull out the servo piston. I was using it to retain tension on the band so the center support hub would not lift the gear train as it was removed.

  15. Now the intermediate clutch pack, apply and pressure plate are removed.

  16. The intermediate band is unhooked from the case and removed.

  17. Special tools time again. I will use the tool to grab the lugs of the shell and remove the gear train in one piece. The gear train weighs about 50 lbs. It can be removed in pieces without this tool. However you can’t reinstall it correctly without the tool due to the limited access there is with the valve body worm tracks machined into the case. The gear train must be correctly assembled outside the transmission and lowered into place.

  18. Gear train removed. When rebuilt, the total gear train will weigh about 15 lbs more than it does now.

  19. The reverse planet is lifted out after removing the retaining ring. There are thrust washers on both sides of the planet which will either stay on it or be in the case.

  20. After removing a retaining ring from the output shaft the ring gear comes out. There will be a needle bearing either stuck to it or the case. At this point the output shaft is ready to come out as well. Caution: Don’t let it fall out if you have previously removed the tail housing.

  21. Remove the tail housing now.

  22. The output shaft and rear thrust washer are now removed.

  23. The reverse pressure plate and clutch pack are removed after the retaining ring is pulled from the case.

  24. Now the low reverse drum is removed. The stamped steel construction of this design can be flexed by hand like a paint can. Not strong enough for this particular build. Unfortunately the 4R100 which replaced the E4OD is full of stamped steel parts.

  25. At the rear of the case 5 bolts retain the low reverse inner race and reverse clutch return spring. Remove them as you catch the race inside the case.

  26. The low reverse inner race and reverse clutch return spring removed

  27. Applying compressed air to the feed hole in the case will pop out the reverse piston.

  28. The case is now empty and tear down is complete.

  29. Now the actual build begins by overhauling individual parts known as sub-assemblies. The two halves of the pump have been unbolted and separated and the gears and valves removed.

  30. New bushings have been installed in the correct position. Notice the red alignment mark made on the case before removal.

  31. While the pump is apart, a new upgraded seal is installed while the shaft is out of the way.

  32. Drain back valve is removed and replaced with an upgraded valve.

  33. After upgraded valves, springs, gears and new bushings are installed the pump halves are realigned with a banding tool and torqued together. A new outer seal and coast clutch seals can be installed after banding or before installation in the transmission case.

  34. Seals are what make an automatic transmission work. Shown are the piston seals and outer pump seal.

  35. Forward and direct clutch drums and sun shell held together by gear train tool. After the tool is removed the individual parts are separated for rebuilding. These parts will be shown in detail as they are rebuilt and reassembled into a completed gear train unit.

  36. The forward clutch. Rebuilding the forward clutch begins by removing the outer snap ring.

  37. The old clutch pack is removed.

  38. Spring plate is removed exposing the piston in the bottom of the drum.

  39. Forward clutch piston removes with a twist. The brownish oil in the bottom is a by product of slipping clutches.

  40. After cleaning, all parts are ready for reassembly. New seals and steel and friction plates will be installed increasing clutch capacity. Care must be used to install seals correctly, lips facing the flow of atf.

  41. After the piston is resealed and installed the spring plate is installed and retained by an outer ring. There is also an inner ring that must have the gap visible to avoid plate damage. The clutch pack is built alternating steel and friction plates. This method is the same for all 6 clutches in the E4OD.

  42. The top pressure plate is installed and the original retaining ring is reinstalled. Sizes were recorded during disassembly, and then final clearance will be adjusted and recorded for all clutch packs as well as other data. The result is a blueprinted build. Shown is the pack clearance being checked. Clearance is adjusted for this pack with a tighter ring for performance use.

  43. On the other side of the drum are sealing rings which are replaced. This drum is finished except for a thrust bearing which rides on the surface under the rings shown. It will be installed later.

  44. The direct clutch. The direct clutch drum is disassembled by removing the ring, pressure plate and clutch pack.

  45. To remove the piston a compressor is used. Springs are compressed and a retainer is removed.

  46. Piston return springs removed from drum.

  47. Direct clutch piston has been removed.

  48. Direct piston seals removed from the drum and piston. These will be replaced with upgrades.

  49. On the reverse side of the direct drum is the intermediate one way clutch and thrust washer which are removed now.

  50. After parts cleaning the drum bushings are replaced and rebuilding is ready to begin.

  51. Direct piston resealed and installed.

  52. After compressing the piston return springs and installing the retainer, the clutch pack is installed. Extra capacity has been added to this clutch.

  53. The pressure plate is installed and final clearance adjusted.

  54. On the backside of the drum, a new thrust washer and intermediate one way clutch are installed.

  55. Intermediate clutch hub has been installed. The direct clutch drum aka intermediate brake drum is completed with stronger capacity for both clutch packs.

  56. The gear train. Now the drums are fitted together engaging the forward clutch hub into the direct clutch splines. A thrust washer not shown is used on early direct drums. A direct drum with the washer must reuse the washer.

  57. A new thrust bearing is installed in the forward drum.

  58. The forward planetary ring gear is now fitted into the forward clutch plate splines.

  59. The forward planetary gear set and thrust bearing are lowered into the ring gear and seated.

  60. Forward gear set in place with a new sun gear thrust bearing installed in the center.

  61. A new shell is set in place, engaging the lugs of the direct drum as the sun gear engages the forward planet. Sun gear has new bushings and retainer. The gear train is now reassembled and has gained some weight and strength.

  62. Now the gear train is carefully held together by hand and inverted. The gear train holding tool is reinstalled. The tool acts as a clamp to hold the assembly together and allow it to be installed into the case as an assembly where hands don’t fit.

  63. The coast clutch. Coast clutch pack is removed by pulling the retaining ring, pressure plate and clutch plates. Sun gear simply is pulled out of the drum.

  64. A compressor tool is used to depress the spring plate and remove the piston retaining ring.

  65. Spring and coast piston apply plate removed.

  66. Coast piston removes with a twist.

  67. After cleaning all parts a new bushing is installed.

  68. New seals are installed on the Coast clutch piston and it is installed back into the drum.

  69. After reinstalling the spring plate a special upgraded hybrid clutch pack is installed.

  70. Pressure plate is in and a special retaining ring is installed. Coast clutch is now finished.

  71. Overdrive ring gear and center shaft assembly. Overdrive one-way clutch, planet, ring and sun gear, thrust bearings and center shaft shown. Disassembly is done by removing snap rings shown and separating parts.

  72. Overdrive one-way roller clutch.

  73. After parts cleaning a new one-way OD roller is installed.

  74. Both the OD and reverse sun gear get new bushings and new retainers.

  75. Test fitting new sun gear bushings.

  76. New OD planet, thrust bearing and one-way clutch installed in ring gear.

  77. The completed assembly fitted into the coast clutch and sun gear. View is from the center shaft side.

  78. The intermediate and overdrive cylinder assembly. A compressor tool is used on the return spring to allow the retaining ring to be removed. Once removed a molded piston with glued on seals is pulled out. Earlier models had an aluminum OD piston with replaceable seals.

  79. Spring plate and piston removed.

  80. The intermediate piston is on the reverse side. It removes with a twist. Piston, seal and cylinder shown.

  81. New and cleaned parts ready for reassembly.

  82. After new seals and piston are installed the cylinder is compressed again and a stronger ring is installed.

  83. The new and improved cylinder is finished.

  84. Replacing the seals on the reverse clutch piston.

  85. Installing a new low reverse one way clutch. It pushes into the back of the drum, removal is the same. The trick is to not lose any springs or sprags.

  86. Test fitting the new bearing race and low reverse one way clutch for proper function.

  87. Modifying the main valve body oil passages while installing a shift kit.

  88. Testing a valve in the main valve body.

  89. Accumulator valve body disassembled. This accumulator VB is a hybrid design built with full shift feel adjustability. Once the transmission is installed any shift can be modified by dropping the pan and adding or removing shims.

  90. After Accumulator reassembly, fit and function are tested.

  91. A new rear case bushing has been installed. Lube hole must align with hole in bushing or Lube failure will occur.

  92. Testing the new rear case bushing for fit.

  93. Manual shift lever linkage has been disconnected so shaft lever seal can be removed.

  94. Manual lever shaft and retaining pin removed. Notice the worn area in the pin. Pin bent around the shaft inside the bore which turned a 10 minute job into a major headache.

  95. Shaft seal is removed by levering it out.

  96. New shaft seal driven into place.

  97. Linkage parts, shaft and new pin ready for installation. Shaft is slid thru seal opening. Pin is tapped into place and linkage is reattached.

  98. Common failure of aluminum gear set. Aluminum has galled and nearly blocked the lube hole. Major failure or the Grenade out the side of the case is the likely result. Stronger parts are the cure. Others put a repair sleeve over this and let it ride.

  99. Burned intermediate frictions and steel plates from over heating clutch. Notice the blue heat marks on the steel plates. Fix is a stronger intermediate clutch and better friction materials.

  100. What’s in a torque converter? Diesel single disc lock up clutch and spring plate shown. Spring plate says LUK. Friction surface thickness is 0.350. More than half of that thickness is a steel plate with friction being about 0.150 thick. By comparison 3 frictions from the reverse clutch are 0.605 thick. Too bad you can’t see inside before buying a converter.

  101. The torque converter impeller. The backside has the hub which drives the front pump.

  102. The backside of the cover where the flywheel studs are. Better ones are made of billet steel to prevent distortion when the TC clutch applies.

  103. The torque converter clutch apply piston. You could have a drain plug in a billet cover. All they would need to do is align it with the wide slot in the teeth. Bean counters win again

  104. The Torque converter stator.

  105. The turbine which is splined to the input shaft.

  106. Reassembly, the sub assemblies are finished.. The reverse piston is seated in its bore. The intermediate and overdrive clutch plates are replaced during the actual reassembly of the transmission. I have had people tell me they have watched an E4od transmission rebuilt in a few hours. What they have actually watched is the reassembly of pre-rebuilt or used components simply installed into the case.

  107. The reverse piston return springs are now put into place.

  108. The low reverse one way clutch race is installed with aligning pins thru the mounting holes in the back of the case. It must be aligned properly with the lube hole in the 5 o-clock position. Otherwise lube failure can occur.

  109. With some special hybrid spacers the reverse piston return springs are compressed by tightening the bolts. Each bolt and pin is removed one at a time and replaced with a mounting bolt.

  110. The race bolts are now torqued down.

  111. I install the reverse clutches and adjust pack clearance, then remove them.

  112. The low reverse drum and one way clutch are installed now as an assembly.

  113. The reverse clutch pack is put in and the retaining ring installed in the case with the gap between 3 and 9 o-clock positions to prevent ring blow out. Case oil drain slot at 6 o-clock is not a good place for the ring gap.

  114. A final clearance check is done on the reverse plates thru a gap in the case.

  115. A new thrust washer is fitted on the back of the case.

  116. The output shaft and parking gear are lowered in thru the back of the case. A bungie cord will keep the shaft from falling out as work continues back inside the case.

  117. Low reverse ring gear with thrust bearing is installed now

  118. A new snap ring fits in the groove on the output shaft. The shaft is now installed and the bungie can be removed.

  119. A new low reverse planetary gear set with thrust washers on either side is fitted into the ring

  120. Retaining ring fits into a groove in the low reverse drum and keeps the gear set in place. A little levering with tools helps seat the ring correctly

  121. A view of the gear set, ring gear, drum, reverse plates and output shaft installed.

  122. A special service tool is used to lower the improved gear train into the case. If needed, turning the output shaft will help mate the parts. An old slip yoke works well for turning and can be used as an oil stop off tool whenever a drive shaft is removed.

  123. A view of the gear train installed in the case with tool. Notice there isn’t much room to get the tool out or for fingers. Rotating until the tool aligns with the band or oil drain slot makes it easier and verifies the assembly is seated as well.

  124. After the tool is removed a new band is installed by aligning the ends with the slots in the case.

  125. A new servo piston installed in the valve body bore mates with the band. You can’t see very much of the component parts in the case from the VB. Older transmissions like the C-6 had removable valve bodies allowing access from the pan and pump bore.

  126. The intermediate clutch pack is now installed into the case mating the case to the intermediate sprag. Thick pressure plate first. Apply plate is last and may have an area without teeth, if so non-tooth area goes at 6 and 12 o-clock.

  127. The center support. A depth measurement is taken and the support is installed. Threads for the feed bolts must align with the holes in the valve body.

  128. Now a second measurement is taken after the support is seated and subtracted from the first. If it’s within specification, the transmission has been assembled correctly to this point.

  129. I also take a look at the direct drum and shell here to be sure they are still seated together.

  130. The feed bolts are installed loosely now. Now the case can be moved without anything coming out of place.

  131. The intermediate return spring is put in place. One of the three tabbed legs must be aligned at 6 o-clock into the support slot.

  132. The intermediate/OD piston is aligned with the valve body feed bolt hole and seated in the case.

  133. The intermediate clutch cylinder retaining ring is aligned inside the case at 6 o-clock.

  134. Using the clutch spring fixture tool to compress the cylinder. Once the cylinder piston is compressed, the retaining ring is seated in its groove.

  135. Using a dial gauge to determine if the retaining ring is sized right. This isn’t necessary on a regular rebuild. There are additional ways of checking this clearance not mentioned in overhaul manuals.

  136. The feed bolt is installed hand tight here. Clutch tool is removed now.

  137. The # 5 thrust bearing is put in place on the center shaft.

  138. The center shaft, overdrive ring gear, and coast clutch drum are installed as an assembly. Care must be used to keep the coast clutch fully seated in the ring gear or the input shaft will bind.

  139. The overdrive clutch pack is installed now.

  140. Checking the OD clutch pack clearance. Extra capacity has been added to this clutch and all others except reverse. Visible is the back of the coast clutch drum and the overdrive sun gear.

  141. The pump thrust washer, hub seals and thrust bearing are installed and coated with a generous amount of assembly lube and ATF. The pump outer o-ring is also installed now.

  142. The pump to case gasket is stuck in place with ATF.

  143. The pump is now installed using an alignment pin and the input shaft as a guide. The pump must seat fully by hand. If it will not, it maybe out of alignment and need rebanding.

  144. The pump bolts with new seals are torqued down. A new seal is put on the pump/stator shaft and the input shaft is installed and turned to check for binding.

  145. A new extension housing gasket is put in place and is ready.

  146. Extension housing and new mount are now installed. Now it’s time to move to the VB. But first the output and input shafts are turned as another way to check for proper assembly.

  147. The feed bolts are tightened at this time to the proper torque.

  148. While the valve body is bare, I perform air checks on each clutch pack to be sure they are working after final assembly. The check balls and EPC valve are placed in the valve body. I have marked the locations with a red mark. The # of check balls is model dependent.

  149. The separator plate and gaskets are installed next. There are 3 different gaskets so care must be used to choose the right one. A 3 bolt retainer plate is installed on the rear hand tight.

  150. The main VB is installed now being sure the manual lever valve engages the lever pin. Bolts are left hand tight.

  151. A new solenoid pack is installed hand tight.

  152. The hybrid accumulator body is installed now and all bolts are properly tightened.

  153. A new mlps switch is installed on the lever shaft. A special tool is used to align it and the hold down bolts are tightened.

  154. A new reusable pan gasket is installed. Then a new 4X4 filter. I use a filter clip on this build to prevent the possibility of the filter neck dropping out of the pump bore.

  155. The pan is installed and bolts are tightened to 10-12 ft lbs. Amazing how many bolts are over tightened and threads stripped when only 10-12 lbs is needed.

  156. Using a shelled out converter to rotate the pump gears and prime the pump. This build is complete except for installation of a torque converter. Three bumps will be felt as the converter hub engages the front seal, pump bushing and pump gear and finally mates with the input shaft. To determine if the converter is properly seated, place a straight edge across the bell housing. The outer hub will be ¼ of an inch below the surface.


The above is courtesy of RacerX
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Old 07-22-2012, 04:51 PM
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I'm using stock oem spec borgwarner clutches. Can someone post of where to machine to add one extra clutch and one extra steel to every clutch pack? What the final clearances should be?
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Old 07-22-2012, 05:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by early99powerstroke View Post
I'm using stock oem spec borgwarner clutches. Can someone post of where to machine to add one extra clutch and one extra steel to every clutch pack? What the final clearances should be?
Machine the pressure plates. Use the Ford factory specs.
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Old 07-22-2012, 06:04 PM
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Is it generally true, if using high quality clutch packs, the more you can fit the better?
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Old 07-22-2012, 09:52 PM
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very nice!
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Old 07-22-2012, 10:59 PM
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If at all posibble refrain from posting in here unless it is adding to the knowledge base or asking a question to get it answered to avoid filling this with posts that make it where people have to sort through.
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Last edited by dentexpowerstroke; 07-22-2012 at 11:06 PM.
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Old 07-22-2012, 11:06 PM
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Here are some links to other site's that have been useful as I've researched:

A helpful write up on a rebuild that was done on powerstroke.org. Has good info.
http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/99-...-poor-man.html

Here is that manual that you should get and read thru before you decide to dive into the tranny.
http://www.amazon.com/ATSG-83-4R100-...pd_sim_sbs_b_2

Still waiting for some more info to come to me for me to post it up here.
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Last edited by dentexpowerstroke; 07-22-2012 at 11:26 PM.
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Old 07-23-2012, 05:37 PM
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Here is another write up I found. Has step by step along with descriptions. Viewable as pdf too.

http://powerstrokearmy.com/forums/at...8&d=1335308411
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Old 07-23-2012, 06:57 PM
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Specialty tools thanks to 907dave
Here's you special tools:

Two slide hammers with threaded adapters to pull the pump.

A few pieces of flat stock with some all thread to use to compress the intermediate return spring to remove the retainer.

A chunk of exhaust pipe and a vice or press to compress the coast/ direct clutch spring.

Two pieces of looped bailing wire to drop in the forward clutch assembly.

And to align the pump half's, flip the pump into your empty case - upside down - and torque your bolts.

Ohh, and a ATSG manual!

If you can follow the directions in the book and have patience there is no reason you cannot do this yourself!!!!
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Old 07-23-2012, 10:21 PM
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Okay so lets say your building a 4r100. It's known that the e4od forward drum has more spline contact on the input shaft and won't strip out as easy as the 4r100 drum. So are there any other e4od parts that can be used in a 4r100 for a budget upgrade?
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Old 07-24-2012, 12:32 AM
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I'm waiting on some more info with this. I was interested too. Im going to post the parts kit ill be using, what parts to change out to upgrade, and any machining/ parts that aren't just a direct swap over.
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Old 07-24-2012, 08:14 PM
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the low/reverse hub from an E4OD is cast instead of stamped like the 4R100. you can use the one from the E4 but will need clutch disks and a new reverse planet. big issue there is finding a 6 pinion planet to fit the cast hub. Seem to be backordered everywhere. I have one in mine and had to pay a pretty penny to get it.

The coast clutch drum is the same story, cast in the E4 and stamped in a 4R. you can swap them as well with the right clutch plates but havent heard any issues with it.

Here is an article I had bookmarked

http://www.gearsmagazine.com/view.as...2-7429960bf169
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Old 10-15-2012, 07:34 PM
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Im starting on my trans this weekend, should i use the tugger spring or pi converter spring in the pump?
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Old 10-15-2012, 08:15 PM
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we use the pi spring. Look at the sonex kit.
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Old 10-15-2012, 08:51 PM
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Already have transgo tugger.
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Old 10-19-2012, 07:20 AM
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Very good write up! Took a lot of work to do this! I have 2 things to add. #1- Brian Thompson told me he just uses stock Borg Warner clutches because they are the best. #2 If I ever decide to rebuild my spare trans I'll use a bts valve body, billet input shaft, John Woods pump, and machined center support. Then just toss on a PI converter and not worry about the trans holding a little extra power. I think that's probably what I'll probably do for my next mildly built truck.
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Last edited by vanderchevy18; 10-19-2012 at 07:22 AM.
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Old 10-19-2012, 12:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vanderchevy18 View Post
Very good write up! Took a lot of work to do this! I have 2 things to add. #1- Brian Thompson told me he just uses stock Borg Warner clutches because they are the best. #2 If I ever decide to rebuild my spare trans I'll use a bts valve body, billet input shaft, John Woods pump, and machined center support. Then just toss on a PI converter and not worry about the trans holding a little extra power. I think that's probably what I'll probably do for my next mildly built truck.
I agree! that is why this site is so great!
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Old 10-20-2012, 10:20 AM
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Awesome write up...Thanks!!
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Old 10-20-2012, 11:18 PM
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Vander,

Where are you at with the other 7.3 build after the original popped? Is she up and running now? Is there a thread on it to save you posting it all up again if its been done? Figured you would likely take it up a bit maybe mid 600s adding some 400% etc... Still running the GTX? Interested to see the top end of that with larger injectors to get to higher rpms and a waste gate for the turbo.
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Old 10-21-2012, 12:04 PM
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I had it running a ling time ago. Ran it for a long time and decided to stick in the 400/400's. Went to go to a pull and cracked a valve. I've been too busy to get it fixed. I want to here soon though.
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  #43  
Old 10-21-2012, 06:18 PM
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Correct me if i'm wrong, but aren't there ways to test out the trans on the bench? If so could somebody do a little write-up on that?

If i ever get myself into my next project truck i'm planning on tackling the trans myself. Should have access to the school machine shop by then which will make it really nice.
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Old 10-21-2012, 09:38 PM
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I'm going to be finishing my trans tomorrow after work. They are not that bad to rebuild.
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Old 10-22-2012, 08:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JD3020 View Post
Correct me if i'm wrong, but aren't there ways to test out the trans on the bench? If so could somebody do a little write-up on that?

If i ever get myself into my next project truck i'm planning on tackling the trans myself. Should have access to the school machine shop by then which will make it really nice.

That's a great idea why don't you do some research to see how feasible it is or is not. If it is write something up for us to reference.
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Old 10-22-2012, 08:24 PM
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Thanks for the write up, I wish I could have contributed, but you did an awesome job! Oh and quit mucking up your own thread,,,,,
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D3leted 6.0's are the best. D3lete them and replace with a Cummings.
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Old 10-22-2012, 08:40 PM
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You can use shop air to apply the clutch packs.
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Old 10-22-2012, 09:07 PM
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So upgrades to help a stock 4R100 out...
E4OD cast low/reverse hub and coast clutch drum
Add more clutch packs
Anything else I'm missing?
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Old 10-22-2012, 09:11 PM
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e4od foward drum.
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Old 10-22-2012, 09:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluedge8 View Post
Thanks for the write up, I wish I could have contributed, but you did an awesome job! Oh and quit mucking up your own thread,,,,,

Smart @ss But you understand I am sure






4.0l Sahara,


Thats what first came to mind to me as well.

Here is how to test thru the VB. You should hear a thud as each pack engages from what I understand.



1 — Reverse clutch feed
2 — Intermediate clutch feed
3 — Overdrive clutch feed
4 — Forward clutch feed
5 — Coast clutch feed
6 — Direct clutch feed

But to honestly fully test one IMO would take a test stand but maybe I am wrong on this. If so then, unless you are going to be building engines or transmissions I can not see it being worth it unless you just want to do it.

You need a complete 7.3 PCM etc just as if you were going to do a engine test stand. A couple basic gauges, weld up a steel frame to mount the engine into. IDM PCM wiring harness, TPS assembly, batteries, Starter, electric fuel pump and filter setup, gas can. Just off the top of my head maybe missing something or things.

Extend the frame to support the trans at the extension.

You could honestly do this for about $500. Pick up a beater engine that just runs. Maybe one you plan to build up later.
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Old 10-22-2012, 09:27 PM
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A full on test stand would be nice, but using an air supply to test clutch packs is what i was going after.
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Old 10-22-2012, 09:39 PM
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BTW I found a good PDF that was put together from the writeup[ Racer X originally did ona forum back when he sold all the parts kits to do rebuilds. The one I put up back on page one did not have the pics as they had been removed (the links were broken) . This has all the pics with the proper instruction set to each picture. While there are a number of differences between the E4OD and 4R100 they so close this will be helpful to all.


This is a PDF and to not kill people on page two with all the pics uploading I will just post the link and have it uploaded to the PSA web servers.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf E4ODRebuild.pdf (4.54 MB, 511 views)
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01' Excursion (forged): ********'s tuning, GTX4294r-1.15t4, Nate's Stage 5 Firehoses 465cc/200%, Stealth's SP1, ARP Studs, 910's (shimmed), DI Pushrods (SAE 4130 CM), Full Custom Fuel System, aFe-Big Boost, DE 4" Exhaust, BTS Trans, 99'-04' V code front/08'F code rear spring swap, PMF 4"Hanger-Shackle kit/5"Rear Blocks, Custom Valved Blistien's, Rear Sway bar, Bushwhackers Cut-out Flares, Fuel Hostage 20"x12" Black Wheels, Interco M16 40"x14.50"x20" Tires
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Old 10-22-2012, 10:45 PM
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I'm not the man in the shop building transmissions but I know Jim the builder always just puts air to it real fast to check the packs and that is it. I don't see the need to go any farther than that.
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Old 10-22-2012, 11:37 PM
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Makes sense to me. I am sure no authority on the subject thats for sure. I am happy if I could take one apart and put it back together and not have a box of parts still left over
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  #55  
Old 10-23-2012, 06:03 AM
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Do you have to limit air pressure? I seem to remember that being the case.
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D3leted 6.0's are the best. D3lete them and replace with a Cummings.
  #56  
Old 10-23-2012, 07:01 AM
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No I wouldn't worry 150psi isn't going to do any harm.
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Old 01-07-2013, 02:35 PM
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Good write up!
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