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Old 07-03-2011, 08:03 AM
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Default IH water pump with filter.

I talked to Billy and he would like to share some of this information here that he has previously written about, so here we go.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gnxtc2 View Post
Last Jan 2009 I replaced the water pump. A year later, this happened



So I decided to gather the parts to convert over to a Int'l water pump with filter

After much research I decided to get a brand new Int'l pump. The pumps are made by Geomar, part # RW6114 ( Geomar Heavy Duty ). I bought the pump from these guys Mondial Automotive | Remanufactured and New Alternators, Carburetors, Generators, and Starters for Cars, Trucks, Vans and Boats for under $200. Int'l wanted $394. The Geomar unit is cast iron and has some weight to it. For more info New Source for International Water Pump - NAPA - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com



I'm not going to go over on how to drain the coolant, remove fan/shround and water pump.

The boss under water outlet needs to be ground down. The boss is meant to be used with a pulley. But to retain the stock serpentine belt, it needs to be ground down.

The pump has multiple ports. The plugs come with the pump and plug them as needed. The heater hose that goes over the alternator could now be relocated. Also the degas bottle hose that "tee's" into the lower rad hose get eliminated and so does the lower rad hose. They get moved to the water inlet. This where to install the barb fittings.

You are going to need different lengths bolts, some of the stock would work but I bought all new bolts from Int'l. The pump takes the longer T-stat.

After I installed the water pump, as I began to install the water pump pulley and it was hitting the pump body. WTF A little investigation revealed that the raised casting number was hitting. Some more grinding got rid of it. I also opted to grind the backside of the pulley slightly for extra clearance.

I re-used the upper hose and water outlet because I replaced them last year and they were in good shape.

Parts:

- Water pump (Geomar RW6114) or Int'l 1831676C92
- 30 mm bolts (Int'l 1817958C1) need 3
- 60 mm bolts (Int'l 1817811C1) need 2
- 110 mm bolts (Int'l 1818693C1 need 4
- Fleatguard WF2071 coolant filter 4 SCA
- Lower hose NAPA 8763 (Dodge Cummins 89-93 I think)
- T-stat (Int'l 1823417C92) 192*
- 2'-3' of 1" heater hose
- 3/4 NPT to 1" male barb*
- 1/2 NPT to 5/8 male barb*
* NOTE: Straight fittings could be used but 45* are better
- 3/4 NPT to 1" male barb 45* (Jeg's 100491)
- 1/2 NPT to 5/8 male barb 45* (Russell 663080)

Hint: Install the barb fittings prior to installing the water pump, don't ask me how I know I wasn't able to get the smaller 45* barb fitting on because it would hit the backpressure tube on the swing. I sleeved the heater hose with some thermal barrier I had lying around.



For more pics International water pump w/ filter pictures from trucks photos on webshots

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

Here is some other good info on the subject.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Peroni View Post
A few weeks ago I helped my neighbor put a new water pump on his PSD powered irrigation pump. The dealer we got the pump from also had the one w/ a coolant filter as part of the pump so I went back and bought it. I put it in yesterday, here are some pics.



Here it is on the motor. I put a piece of threaded rod in the extra boss then milled it all flush. Also milled off the raised casting number. I used stainless bolts and since I couldn't get flanged head in metric, I made up some washers from 5/8 304 bar stock..


Here are the fittings for the expansion tank and heater return. I got steel 45 fittings from Discount Hydraulic Hose, they are stronger and way cheaper than the alum ones from Jegs. On the water pump pulley I put it in the lathe and faced .060 off the backside, it now has about the same clearance as on the original pump.


I bought a new outlet neck too. To help stiffen up the flimsy base and equalize clamping force I made what is really just a big triangular washer that fit inside the raised outer edge. It's 1/4 thick 304 stainless, also used new longer stainless bolts. Did the trick as I have no leaks! A Stant 205 T-stat was also used. Filter is a Wix with no sca additive.


The lower radiator hose is for an 00 Dodge diesel pickup. It fit a bit loose to the radiator but the clamp sealed it tight. I used all stainless worm clamps that are lined with rolled edges.


While the coolant was drained I installed the Ford Ranger heater valve. I tapped into the blue vacuum line in the cab, it shuts off coolant flow to the heater in vent and AC positions. A very cheap and worthwhile mod!


Work was slow last week so I made my own fan clutch wrench from some 3/8 steel plate. My fan clutch did not put up a fight which was a nice surprise.


Again while the coolant was drained I did some r&r on the oil cooler. It wasn't leaking but it was pretty rusty. The tube seals were also rock hard, had to cut them off.


I planned to use the existing 1/8npt port in the filter head for an oil bypass. So while I had it off I put in some holes for my oil tamp and pressure sensors. Yes I could have put them elsewhere but I wanted them here.

The job took me about 8hrs including a few beer breaks and waiting for paint to dry. Most of that was devoted to thoroughly flushing the cooling system then getting as much water out as I could. I used DI water for the final flush as we have a lot of it at work. Refilled with Cat ELC, so far it has taken 7 3/4 gallons. Yeah I know pre 99 motors supposedly can't use but neither CAT nor IH gave no reasons not to. Plus my neighbor has had it in his 1995 irrigation pump engine for 8000+ hrs with no problems so I'll chance it. This was a fun and worthwhile little project to do.
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  #2  
Old 07-03-2011, 08:04 AM
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I made this a sticky for now we can talk about it before it goes to the library.
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Old 07-03-2011, 08:08 AM
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Some more information on the subject.

Quote:
Originally Posted by spaceballs View Post
Since doing this mod about a month ago and showing off as much as I felt was allowed, I realized the need to go back to what I promised myself that I would do: a decent write up on this thing. I really took a lot of help from renegade, manleyjt, devebuy, talford, and big red cc dually. I couldn't have done it without your help and good posts from the past. What I did feel was a little bit of a lack of confidence, and I wanted to try and alleviate some of that.



This swap does work. It is a direct bolt on replacement that doesn't require any major modifications. It is a big improvement to the hose situation, and it looks cool. Here are the parts that you will need to do the job:



from International



1831676C92 THE Water Pump

1817958C1 [x3] Bolt 30mm

1817811C1 [x2] Bolt 20mm

1818693C1 [x4] Bolt 110mm

1822653C92 Pulley, Grooved for 8-rib belt

2001804C1 Bolt to hold pulley

1823450C1 Pulley Bearing Dust Cover

1823417C92 Thermostat



from Napa [I ordered these online...]



8825 Upper Radiator Hose

8763 Lower Radiator Hose

705-1319 [x2] Hose Clamps

705-1313 [x2] Hose Clamps

705-1315 [x2] Hose Clamps

25-081213 Serpentine Belt [original app. 99-02 Super Duty??]



from O-Reilly:



MRY 85001 Thermostat housing, aluminum [highly recommended!!]



from FittingsandAdapters.com



MPT 16-12 Order this before you do anything else! It will take a while. This is the fitting that will connect the degas bottle to the pump. This is 3/4" NPT on one end and 1" Male hose barb on the other.

MPT 10-8 This will let your heater return hose run into the pump. This fitting is much more common and any parts house should have it.



You will need a T50 socket to get the old pump off and to get this one on. I also opted to buy all new heater hoses as well. I recommend Gates, which they carry at both Napa and O-Reilly. I bought about three feet of 1" heater hose for the degas bottle line and I bought about 16 feet of 5/8" hose for the heater hoses. After this mod, you do not have to worry about that annoying hose that currently probably interferes with your alternator wire. I was so happy to throw that hose bracket away...



I am not going to include a write up on the actual installation because this is no different than any other pump installation. This is a straightforward job, and if I could do it, anyone could do it. If you have any questions, please ask or PM me and I will answer them. I hope that I have answered some questions, and if there is anything that I have missed out on, let me know. I did this for all of us, and there is always room to improve.
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Old 07-03-2011, 08:18 AM
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The Navastar section will show some information on the pump with the filter head.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf HWP_Haldex_Water_Pump_2010.pdf (3.57 MB, 189 views)
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Aeroturbine exhaust, Aeroforce OBD Scan Gauge, Truxedo tonneau cover
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Old 07-05-2011, 03:11 PM
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So is all the grinding really necessary?

Sam
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Old 07-06-2011, 05:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by genie144 View Post
So is all the grinding really necessary?

Sam
Yes and no. If you want to keep the stock belt and not add any extra pulleys they yes you will have to do some grinding. It doesn't take much, even a little 4" cheapo from Harbor Freight will do the job.

If you don't want to do any grinding then you need the extra parts and longer belt. Spaceballs did it this way, look a few posts above for his parts list. If you do a search on TDS I think you will find some pics of his or a similar setup.

I did not like the idea of adding another pulley as it is just something else that can wear out or break.
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Old 07-07-2011, 12:47 PM
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Any other benifits to this other then the filter?
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Old 07-07-2011, 01:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSIPSD View Post
Any other benifits to this other then the filter?
Gets rid of the heater hose fitting right in front of the access cover for the HPOP gear bolt. At least thats what I saw that impressed me, among other things.
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... I don't want to be left assuming you're a dipchit. I want you to prove it to me...
  #9  
Old 07-07-2011, 01:45 PM
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seems like a worthwhile upgrade if your water pump goes out.
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Old 07-07-2011, 02:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSIPSD View Post
Any other benifits to this other then the filter?
Rugged cast iron part, neatens up the cooling hose plumbing and can use an off the shelf hotter t-stat. I used a Stant 205 #14252 in mine. Also has a little built in on/off valve so you don't get coolant all over the place changing the filter.

Only downside is that there is not much room to get a filter wrench in there. I had to buy one from KD Tools and put it on the end of a long 1/2 extension - that did the trick.
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Old 07-07-2011, 04:08 PM
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Not a big fan of the hotter stats...
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Old 07-07-2011, 04:17 PM
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My truck runs great with the 205 stat, but then I'm still stock. I would imagine with all your mods it probably runs plenty hot already.

Shawn
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Old 07-07-2011, 04:27 PM
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Depending on how heavy and how hot it is I can see 210-220... But that drags the oil temps up as well... do you know what temps your running or does it "just run good"
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Old 07-07-2011, 04:37 PM
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No, I don't know what the actual temps are, just noticed it seemed to run better after it was in. I don't tow and am all stock though too. I could probably try to pull up a past AE file to find out or just record them all again.

Shawn
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Old 07-07-2011, 05:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSIPSD View Post
Not a big fan of the hotter stats...
With my mods towing 18K last summer from MA to central WI and back I saw coolant temps 210 to 220 on some of them rt 80 hills in PA. My oil temps were 10 hotter. Everything cooled back down quick after pulling hills. Using Schaeffers 9000 5-40, my sales rep says those oil temps were fine. You don't have to run a hotter t-stat with this mod, I think it's 192 that's available too.
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Old 07-07-2011, 06:17 PM
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I think the hotter t-stat went the way of the blue CPS and the Dodo bird.
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Old 07-08-2011, 07:09 AM
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so, does this work on 99-03 psd's?
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Old 07-08-2011, 08:32 AM
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Quote:
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so, does this work on 99-03 psd's?
God I hope so, I'm planning on using one.
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... I don't want to be left assuming you're a dipchit. I want you to prove it to me...
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Old 07-09-2011, 04:58 AM
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Quote:
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I think the hotter t-stat went the way of the blue CPS and the Dodo bird.
What's wrong with using the t-stat that International designed the motor to have in the first place?
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Old 07-09-2011, 05:27 PM
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Awesome mod. This will be on my short list. My water pump isn't out, but it is 14 years old.
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Old 07-10-2011, 08:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DZL JIM View Post
What's wrong with using the t-stat that International designed the motor to have in the first place?
I'm not positive on the specifics of this, but the advantages of having a conventional diesel engine at an optimum temperature to facilitate a better combustion have to be weighed against the side effects of using oil that is 8 degrees warmer in the injectors/HPO system of the 7.3 Powerstroke, which (especially in the case of dual/higher flow pumps) becomes even hotter, and is then dumped back into the crankcase into oil that is already 8 degrees hotter, which then raises the temperature, which is then run back into the HPO reservoir, through the injectors again, etc etc etc...

Ford changed the t-stat for a reason. So I guess at that point you have to decide whether to go with Ford engineers or International engineers. Finding out why Ford changed it would be a good place to start, but I'm betting it's related to the HPO system.
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Old 07-10-2011, 05:41 PM
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I think the main reason Ford lowered the coolant temp had to do with emissions.
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Old 08-12-2011, 06:16 PM
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I like the hotter thermostat if for no other reason than the heater now works!!
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Old 08-16-2011, 06:17 AM
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Quote:
I think the main reason Ford lowered the coolant temp had to do with emissions.
I would be surprised if cost savings didn't have at least a little something to do with it as well.
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Old 10-22-2011, 05:58 PM
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thats what im goin with... they already had 195 thermostats. why start the production of a different one $$$$$
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Old 10-26-2011, 11:13 AM
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I noticed last night that I have a small coolant leak coming from the little ball valve on my pump. The one that shuts off the flow to the filter so you can change it. I called the manufacturer, http://www.geomarheavyduty.com/onlin...avistar7p3.htm, and was told the only fix is to replace the pump. He said the pumps with the little ball valves are a poor design and prone to leak. When we began our conversation, he assumed I had just installed the pump and told me to exchange it for another one. He seemed surprised when I told him it was 3 years old and had 30,000 miles on it.

Anyone else run into this yet?

Shawn
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Old 10-27-2011, 04:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AZStang View Post
I noticed last night that I have a small coolant leak coming from the little ball valve on my pump. The one that shuts off the flow to the filter so you can change it. I called the manufacturer, http://www.geomarheavyduty.com/onlin...avistar7p3.htm, and was told the only fix is to replace the pump. He said the pumps with the little ball valves are a poor design and prone to leak. When we began our conversation, he assumed I had just installed the pump and told me to exchange it for another one. He seemed surprised when I told him it was 3 years old and had 30,000 miles on it.

Anyone else run into this yet?

Shawn
Never heard of this before, I know mine is not leaking. It does not look like that a big a deal to remove the valve cylinder and replace the o rings on it with something that will take the heat better.
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Old 10-29-2011, 08:36 AM
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I called my Navistar dealer and they can get the valve assembly pretty cheap, but nobody in the shop there has ever replaced one. The manufacturer said it was pressed in. My fear would be that once out, it would no longer stay pressed in.

Shawn
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Old 10-31-2011, 08:57 PM
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I would also be concerned that the valve on the copy one is not exact to the original
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Old 11-01-2011, 07:18 AM
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I would also be concerned that the valve on the copy one is not exact to the original
You mean OEM pump vs aftermarket pump? That is a concern too.

Shawn
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Old 11-02-2011, 04:23 PM
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I called my Navistar dealer and they can get the valve assembly pretty cheap, but nobody in the shop there has ever replaced one. The manufacturer said it was pressed in. My fear would be that once out, it would no longer stay pressed in.

Shawn
The valve can't be pressed in otherwise it wouldn't be able to turn. IIRC there is a retaining clip that holds it in but its been a while since I put my pump on.

I would not trust what the manufacturer says. Likely the only person who knows exactly how that valve is assembled is the guy who designed it and the guy who assembled it! <-- Very typical with manufacturers in my experience!
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Old 11-02-2011, 10:42 PM
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The valve can't be pressed in otherwise it wouldn't be able to turn. IIRC there is a retaining clip that holds it in but its been a while since I put my pump on.

I would not trust what the manufacturer says. Likely the only person who knows exactly how that valve is assembled is the guy who designed it and the guy who assembled it! <-- Very typical with manufacturers in my experience!
You are correct! I took a look tonight with an inspection mirror and there is a small snap ring on the outside. Probably have to pull the fan to make enough room for access, but I should be able to get it out and replace the o-rings now.

Thanks!
Shawn
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Old 11-28-2011, 02:19 PM
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Well the bearing in my pump let go sometime in the past two weeks, so I never did try to change the valve out. It went in a hurry too. I had no leaks at the weep hole two weeks ago and there was a huge amount of play in the shaft when I took it apart this weekend. I'm glad I caught it when I did.

This pump was a new unit manufactured by Geomar Heavy Duty. It lasted 3.5 years and almost exactly 30,000 miles. I don't know if that's normal or not, but I'm not very impressed with that life.

Anyway, I bought the new pump at International. Price was $215 and it is a new build. The box it came in said PartSmart on the side. The guy behind the counter said it was a new supplier International is using in order to be more competitive on price. Hopefully it will last longer than the last one. I also found this site when searching for a replacement. I don't know anything about them though.

I did pull the little valve out of my old pump after I had it on the bench. It is pretty straight forward and only has a snap ring and a single o-ring sealing it. Should be easy to the replace the o-ring if anyone ever needs to.





Shawn
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Old 12-27-2011, 10:05 PM
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So I picked up a international pump today and I will be doing the extra pulley set up. Question I have is, does the stock pulley that mounts to the fan reused or do I need the international one? I have read that it needs to be clearanced?
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Old 12-28-2011, 07:01 AM
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So I picked up a international pump today and I will be doing the extra pulley set up. Question I have is, does the stock pulley that mounts to the fan reused or do I need the international one? I have read that it needs to be clearanced?
Much easier (and cheaper) to just grind the pump casting eliminating the need for the extra pulley and use the stock length belt. That's what I and most others have done.

Shawn
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Old 12-28-2011, 09:51 AM
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Much easier (and cheaper) to just grind the pump casting eliminating the need for the extra pulley and use the stock length belt. That's what I and most others have done.

Shawn
So what is the extra pulley for? And does the original pulley need anything done to it to make it fit?

Last edited by Got4wd; 12-28-2011 at 10:06 AM.
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Old 12-28-2011, 12:13 PM
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So what is the extra pulley for? And does the original pulley need anything done to it to make it fit?
I don't know what the extra pulley is for. International trucks with the 7.3 have it and Ford trucks don't. Your stock fan pulley works fine with the International water pump without the extra pulley.

Shawn
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Old 12-28-2011, 05:26 PM
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I don't know what the extra pulley is for. International trucks with the 7.3 have it and Ford trucks don't. Your stock fan pulley works fine with the International water pump without the extra pulley.

Shawn
Ok so the "stock" pulley where the 4 bolts needs no modification? It just bolts up? Seems that I read somewhere it needs to be shaved down on the back side?
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Old 12-28-2011, 05:52 PM
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Ok so the "stock" pulley where the 4 bolts needs no modification? It just bolts up?
It bolts right up the pump but you either need to grind two clearance channels in the pump body or remove about 1/16" from back of the pulley rim. I have a lathe so I did the latter.

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Seems that I read somewhere it needs to be shaved down on the back side?
Reread the very first post again carefully. Billy and myself make mention of needing just a little clearance on the pulley. It may have just been our pump castings. I strongly suggest you try the pulley on your pump before installing it.
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Old 12-29-2011, 01:24 PM
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It bolts right up the pump but you either need to grind two clearance channels in the pump body or remove about 1/16" from back of the pulley rim. I have a lathe so I did the latter.

Reread the very first post again carefully. Billy and myself make mention of needing just a little clearance on the pulley. It may have just been our pump castings. I strongly suggest you try the pulley on your pump before installing it.
I'm on my second international water pump and I didn't have any clearance issues with either one. I wonder if the pulleys changed as some point.

Shawn
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Old 01-09-2012, 11:32 AM
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Thought I would update this thread to clear up what needs to be clearanced for the fan belt. There was not a clear picture on what needed to be ground down so here is a picture for future people doing this pump. I used a end mill but a grinder would have taken care of it too. Also I used a oem international pump and it had no casting numbers where the pulley bolts to the fan, seems like the aftermarket pumps have the numbers in the pump?




Last edited by Got4wd; 01-09-2012 at 11:35 AM.
  #42  
Old 01-09-2012, 12:13 PM
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Can you put an indicator on the area you ground down?
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Old 01-21-2012, 07:38 PM
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So before I tear out my water pump. Is there enough removed on the pump to clear the fan belt? I can't find a picture where the pump is mounted and the fan belt is on to see how close the belt is to the pump.

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Old 01-21-2012, 08:22 PM
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That looks perfect. Too perfect in fact. Did you do it in a mill?

Shawn
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Old 01-21-2012, 08:42 PM
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That looks perfect. Too perfect in fact. Did you do it in a mill?

Shawn
Wife's nail file. Lol. Yes end mill. Now only if my fitting will come in. They are hard to find in steel. 45 fittings not very common.
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Old 01-22-2012, 07:16 AM
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Wife's nail file. Lol. Yes end mill. Now only if my fitting will come in. They are hard to find in steel. 45 fittings not very common.
Looks good.

Which fitting? I don't have any 45 fittings on mine.

Shawn
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Old 01-22-2012, 10:11 AM
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Looks good.

Which fitting? I don't have any 45 fittings on mine.

Shawn
Everything I have read says to run the 45 fittings for the degas and heater hose. Just like in this picture from this thread

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Old 01-22-2012, 12:35 PM
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Everything I have read says to run the 45 fittings for the degas and heater hose. Just like in this picture from this thread

Never heard that one before. Mine are both straight and have had no issues for over 4 years now.

Shawn
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Old 01-22-2012, 12:38 PM
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Never heard that one before. Mine are both straight and have had no issues for over 4 years now.

Shawn
Hmmm maybe if you get a chance take a picture of where the hoses connect to the fittings? Do you think the 45 fittings make the hoses fit better? Better angle?
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Old 01-22-2012, 04:18 PM
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I do think the 45 fittings would help slightly - the heater hose connection the most. Though not entirely necessary. If you got them on order, go with them. I just have straight brass fittings from Ace Hardware on mine though.

Shawn
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Old 03-25-2012, 12:17 PM
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I received a PM from Peroni looking for the size of the o-ring on the water pump valve. Figured I'd post it here for all to see. The o-ring below was in pretty rough shape and it broke when I tried to remove it, so I would use the dimensions of the valve itself for determining correct o-ring size.

Based on the measurements below, I'd say it's a -205 o-ring.















Shawn
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Old 10-23-2012, 09:20 AM
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I received a PM from Peroni looking for the size of the o-ring on the water pump valve. Figured I'd post it here for all to see. The o-ring below was in pretty rough shape and it broke when I tried to remove it, so I would use the dimensions of the valve itself for determining correct o-ring size.

Based on the measurements below, I'd say it's a -205 o-ring.















Shawn
Well it looks like my o ring is leaking. I can pull it with the pump still on the truck right?
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Old 10-23-2012, 10:55 AM
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Or does international have a part number for the o ring?
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Old 10-23-2012, 12:46 PM
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You should be able to change the o-ring without pulling the pump. Will probably want to remove the belt for access. You will need an angled snap ring pliers as well - and an inspection mirror.

I'd just get a Buna-N o-ring from a hydraulics shop rather than International. Hardware store may even have that size as well in Buna-N.

Shawn
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Old 10-23-2012, 01:04 PM
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Well it looks like my o ring is leaking. I can pull it with the pump still on the truck right?
Yes and it's a bitch even with angled snap ring pliers! Mainly because you can't really see in there and have to do everything by feel.

I had to get a whole bag of Viton orings when replacing mine. Let me check if I brought them with me when I moved. If I have em I'll post a few your way.
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Old 10-23-2012, 01:55 PM
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Yes and it's a bitch even with angled snap ring pliers! Mainly because you can't really see in there and have to do everything by feel.

I had to get a whole bag of Viton orings when replacing mine. Let me check if I brought them with me when I moved. If I have em I'll post a few your way.
I figured it would be easy. yes let me know if you have anymore.


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You should be able to change the o-ring without pulling the pump. Will probably want to remove the belt for access. You will need an angled snap ring pliers as well - and an inspection mirror.

I'd just get a Buna-N o-ring from a hydraulics shop rather than International. Hardware store may even have that size as well in Buna-N.

Shawn
Thanks for the info.
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Old 10-23-2012, 02:43 PM
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Might have sourced some in town. Viton is what I should use?
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Old 10-23-2012, 03:56 PM
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Viton or Buna-N would be fine in this application. Which ever you can find.

Shawn
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Old 10-23-2012, 04:20 PM
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Viton or Buna-N would be fine in this application. Which ever you can find.

Shawn
Perfect thanks. Pissed this pump is leaking from there it's only a few month old.
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Old 10-26-2012, 09:05 AM
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Sorry mate I looked and I did not bring these with me, they're 850 miles away in storage. You should still be able to get one at a hydraulics shop or any heavy equipment dealer.
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Old 10-26-2012, 09:16 AM
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Sorry mate I looked and I did not bring these with me, they're 850 miles away in storage. You should still be able to get one at a hydraulics shop or any heavy equipment dealer.
Thanks for looking. I litterly just picked these up. Thanks again for your help.

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Old 10-27-2012, 04:40 PM
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Had to remove the pump to replace the seal. Seemed easier than fighting to get the snap ring pliers in there. There just isn't a lot of room. The seal that was in there was not torn or anything. I think that it "shrank" down maybe a little and and was letting the coolant to leak. Replaced with a new Viton seal and the pressure tested it and no more leak. When I first got the oem IH pump I thought that the "on/off" valve was a little loose, now with the new seal the valve is much harder to move back and forth. Hopefully problem solved. I hate leaks!
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Old 10-27-2012, 04:48 PM
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Even with the fan and shroud out of the way there still wasn't enough room? You know that pump is going to start leaking now after all that work!

Glad you got it fixed.

Shawn
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Old 10-27-2012, 04:53 PM
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Even with the fan and shroud out of the way there still wasn't enough room? You know that pump is going to start leaking now after all that work!

Glad you got it fixed.

Shawn
No I tried everything to try and prevent pulling the pump. I have 3 different snap ring pliers. That pump better not leak! Its only a couple months old. I'll drive it off a cliff if it does. Thanks for all the help.
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Old 11-19-2012, 08:45 PM
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I installed a 6.0L fan on mine today and figured I'd replace the o-ring on that valve while I had the access. Got the fan out of the way and found the valve had already been leaking on mine too. Pump is only 11 months and 10,000 miles old. I was able to make the swap without pulling the pump. The old o-ring was very hard and brittle. I went with Viton on the new one as well.

Shawn
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Old 11-19-2012, 09:10 PM
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I installed a 6.0L fan on mine today and figured I'd replace the o-ring on that valve while I had the access. Got the fan out of the way and found the valve had already been leaking on mine too. Pump is only 11 months and 10,000 miles old. I was able to make the swap without pulling the pump. The old o-ring was very hard and brittle. I went with Viton on the new one as well.

Shawn
Was yours a oem IH pump too? And good for you getting that clip out. There was no way possible to get mine out. I even had 2 other guys try it too.
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Old 11-20-2012, 05:48 AM
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I did buy this pump over the counter at my local Navistar dealer.

It was definitely weird trying to get the snap ring pliers into the two little holes of the snap ring using only a little inspection mirror. Once it pops out of the groove, a small screw driver can pry it out the rest of the way.

Shawn
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Old 03-03-2014, 06:45 PM
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I'm thinking about doing this is there a way to get these pics? I can't see them.


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Old 08-26-2015, 09:18 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: In a Wind Turbine
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Default IH water pump with filter.

I just bought mine from dieselsite.
All bolts, correct hardware, hoses, thermostat, gaskets and Loctite came with the kit.
The coolant filter has a ball valve for when you change the filter without draining the system too.
No grinding required.










Tapatalking from a wind turbine
__________________
96 7.3. PIS 350 200s. Precision Turbo 76mm. Big Oil.
18 Cummins 2500 White Laramie Sport.
Stock with a warranty

Last edited by KBMKVIII; 08-26-2015 at 09:21 AM.
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