high hp survival.

dentexpowerstroke · Jan 17, 2014

Been tossing around ideas on how to make a 7.3 survive at high hp a little easier. I've been thinking if you limit low end power and move that power up in the rpms a little bit then extend your rpms to 4-4200 that it could help some. I don't know enough about the tuning side of it so I'm coming here for any info/ideas. The injectors used will be capable of making power at the 4200 mark so I don't see that as the limiting factor. Shoot this down or give some feedback, what do you guys think?

Crack85 · Jan 17, 2014

Call swamps and open up ur wallet.

rustbucket · Jan 17, 2014

Im sure a tuner will chime in but im pretty sure thats how they tune stock bottom end 7.3's. By limiting injection timing and low rpms to keep cylinder pressures in check so the connecting rods dont give you a new crankcase vent.

ghohouston · Jan 17, 2014

Buddy, blocks are cheap and easy enough to come by lol dont be scared

dentexpowerstroke · Jan 17, 2014

Haha there will be a spare motor in the garage waiting either way and one being built with billet rods and all the goodies. I'm not just going to call a shop and drop a ton if money for them to build one because that goes against the purpose of trying to find ways to have a forged rod block survive. It's going to get a billet rod motor either way but may be cool to prove a way to help forged rods survive a little longer.

thuglike · Jan 18, 2014

A cam will flatten out and push the trq curve up.

Tuning will be your key..keeping the skinny pedal linear and not an on/off switch.

Tim @ P.I.S. · Jan 18, 2014

Exactly :whs:

KBMKVIII · Jan 25, 2014

Even tho a forged eng is cheap its still a lot of time and work to re do everything.
I would like to see your stock forged engine be a total success for power held and time/duty its given.
I would like to hear more about this as well.

ghohouston · Jan 25, 2014

KBMKVIII said:
Even tho a forged eng is cheap its still a lot of time and work to re do everything.
I would like to see your stock forged engine be a total success for power held and time/duty its given.
I would like to hear more about this as well.

Its like 6 hours start to finish, its not that bad. I get your point, I was mainly joking with him

lincolnlocker · Jan 26, 2014

At what rpm will a 7.3 try to become more then a 90° block and spit a rod through the bottom of the oil pan even with mods to help stiffen it?

live life full throttle

co04cobra · Jan 26, 2014

What power do you want to be at?

KBMKVIII · Jan 26, 2014

lincolnlocker said:
At what rpm will a 7.3 try to become more then a 90° block and spit a rod through the bottom of the oil pan even with mods to help stiffen it?

live life full throttle

Got to be flexible with a racing schedule lol

KBMKVIII · Jan 26, 2014

ghohouston said:
Its like 6 hours start to finish, its not that bad. I get your point, I was mainly joking with him

I know what u meant buddy just saying I don't want more work then I don't have time for hahaha.

pontiacross · Jan 26, 2014

peak power somewhere around 4100rpm 220,000mile stock bottom end, stock cam, stock heads, stock rockers, smith brothers push tubes, comp 910 springs, and h11 studs. I think it actually made more power than that but I think this was 20+ runs into the day so power was probably down some due to heat. and this was with a stock Inter cooler instead of my air to water cooler. I think they are getting about another 100hp out of the same basic setup now with head work and a cam.

I did end up blowing a head gasket but I think the damage was done before we got to that level when we first put it on the dyno we made some ridiculous torque numbers and it puked water several times while running it. pistons and everything else looked fine when I tore it down. I pulled this engine 5 or 6 seasons, we dyno tuned it before the last season.

moral of the story I am a firm believer in more rpms and less low end torque

lincolnlocker · Jan 26, 2014

pontiacross said:
peak power somewhere around 4100rpm 220,000mile stock bottom end, stock cam, stock heads, stock rockers, smith brothers push tubes, comp 910 springs, and h11 studs. I think it actually made more power than that but I think this was 20+ runs into the day so power was probably down some due to heat. and this was with a stock Inter cooler instead of my air to water cooler. I think they are getting about another 100hp out of the same basic setup now with head work and a cam.

I did end up blowing a head gasket but I think the damage was done before we got to that level when we first put it on the dyno we made some ridiculous torque numbers and it puked water several times while running it. pistons and everything else looked fine when I tore it down. I pulled this engine 5 or 6 seasons, we dyno tuned it before the last season.

moral of the story I am a firm believer in more rpms and less low end torque

No fire rings either?

live life full throttle

Tim @ P.I.S. · Jan 26, 2014

pontiacross said:
moral of the story I am a firm believer in more rpms and less low end torque

I too. But how does that work for "pulling". Do you miss the torque?

After having conversations with some that have implemented this in racing they see the need for the higher torque to get the vehicle moving off the line. At least they say the track times show this.

My question is does pulling like the rpms more or the torque more?

dentexpowerstroke · Jan 26, 2014

co04cobra said:
What power do you want to be at?

Eventually will push for 1000hp. I'm about to start building a built motor to replace the forged motor but I figured until I get a motor built I want to try to make the forged block survive at high hp. If it let's go, oh well. Basically, I'll try something like the lone stroke has done and move power to the higher rpms and limit low end power. The truck is getting live tuned so it should be possible for it to live for a little bit.

pontiacross · Jan 26, 2014

Tim @ P.I.S. said:
I too. But how does that work for "pulling". Do you miss the torque?

After having conversations with some that have implemented this in racing they see the need for the higher torque to get the vehicle moving off the line. At least they say the track times show this.

My question is does pulling like the rpms more or the torque more?

I'm sure some more torque would help for pulling but don't think it would have helped enough to make a 10k engine worth it. The sled is easy to start and gets harder to pull as you go down the track so after I got my gearing where I wanted it was was to get the sled started. then its all about speed and momentum at the end of the track. if you have enough power to keep the tires spinning

No fire rings either?

nope the first time the heads were ever off was when I blew a head gasket

KBMKVIII · Jan 26, 2014

You're experience on this platform is amazing and quite encouraging. Thank you for the charts. Real world example.

lincolnlocker · Jan 26, 2014

pontiacross said:
I'm sure some more torque would help for pulling but don't think it would have helped enough to make a 10k engine worth it. The sled is easy to start and gets harder to pull as you go down the track so after I got my gearing where I wanted it was was to get the sled started. then its all about speed and momentum at the end of the track. if you have enough power to keep the tires spinning

nope the first time the heads were ever off was when I blew a head gasket

wow, thats impressive!!!!

KBMKVIII said:
You're experience on this platform is amazing and quite encouraging. Thank you for the charts. Real world example.

this^^^ i don't know how many times i have watched ross's vids of the lonestroke.. he and it are my idols!! still amazed at what he has done with a 7.3..