brute66 vs 38r vs poorboy

38r-BB,1.0ar wg housing,66mm standard wheel and requires 4" tube-$1349
brute 66-billet 66 wheel,1.15ar non wg,.adapter,journal bearing,stock tube-$1300
poorboy-66mm wheel with billet option,1.0ar non wg with adapter-$1200(200 billet option)

im torn. im ordering in the next 48 hours. theres not a lot of info on the no limit turbos but they have a solid reputation. the 38r would get a billet wheel later on and already have a turbo master WG controller and hiflo oiutlet I could use on the 38r.
the extra noise from the 38r doesn't bother me. also,when adding a ww2 to a 38r id consider a 1.15 housing since I feel it would split the spool up time in half vs the 1.0 that comes on the 38.

the no limit turbos have a low cost rebuild,billet wheel option for less and retain the stock turbo inlet.

so im checking in for feedback or general info. im on stock sticks,which may be upgraded to a slight upgrade single shot. but this would be after a new hpop and other items first.(suspension,interior ect)

the truck is DD,tows 2-3x a month (car hauler to 3-5 atv's) and generally just gets used for what it was made for.im rough on it but at the same time Im anal about all maint.

so what can you guys suggest and please back up any claims with proof. my friends uncles brother in laws cell mate had X and it was super duper,wont work in this case.

yes ive searched and yes ive read up. the reason for the turbo is mine is beyond a simple rebuild. I already had a banks 1.0 and ww2,but throwing $400 more at a used turbo were spending a couple hundred more would get me a better setup made sense. so I sold my parts and now ive got the cash.

im not past using a used turbo(38r) with decent miles. its just that sellers don't seem motivated. sorry but your 5-10k old turbo isn't worth 1200 when I can get a new one for 100 more with warranty.

sorry this is long but with no limit hitting the market with what appears to be a pretty awesome product its hard not to compare. this isn't like the old 38r vs thruster II vs xx turbo debate.

Sub'd

Stock til you can afford a t4 setup would be my opinion, opens up alot of other turbo options and room for growth down the road if you feel the need. Otherwise 38r.. Proven to last and be a damn good upgrade when you keep backpressure in check.

silverpsd_06 said:

Stock til you can afford a t4 setup would be my opinion, opens up alot of other turbo options and room for growth down the road if you feel the need. Otherwise 38r.. Proven to last and be a damn good upgrade when you keep backpressure in check.

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Ya but he's staying with stock injectors, possibly 160's. So 366 would be laggy compared to others. I'd stay with the 1.0 housing on the 38r w/WWII. Search the forum on this, did bunch of dyno's with different size housings and the 1.0 performed better.

The 38r and Brute will do what your looking to do. The Brute is a rebuildable version of the 38r and with a Billet wheel costs 300.00 less. Both turbo's can be rebuilt. The Brute for around 150.00 and the 38r for about 750.00 but let's face it, if the 38r let's go..your upgrading. Like the 38r we can get it to you with either a 1.0 or 1.15 housing.

All that said we can supply any of the 3 turbo's. We love the 38r. We just wanted to bring a rebuildable version to market. So the Brute was born.
The other part of the turbo you get is after sale service. With the Brute, we will stand behind it 100%...you'll never have an issue without some kind support or service.
The 38r...well I call Garrett and hope for the best. My pont is it's better dealing with the company that makes the product

Jason@NLTD said:

The 38r and Brute will do what your looking to do. The Brute is a rebuildable version of the 38r and with a Billet wheel costs 300.00 less. Both turbo's can be rebuilt. The Brute for around 150.00 and the 38r for about 750.00 but let's face it, if the 38r let's go..your upgrading. Like the 38r we can get it to you with either a 1.0 or 1.15 housing.

All that said we can supply any of the 3 turbo's. We love the 38r. We just wanted to bring a rebuildable version to market. So the Brute was born.
The other part of the turbo you get is after sale service. With the Brute, we will stand behind it 100%...you'll never have an issue without some kind support or service.
The 38r...well I call Garrett and hope for the best. My pont is it's better dealing with the company that makes the product

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Here you go OP! If the nltd option was there when I bought my 38r, I would have gone with one of their options. Warranty is a big deal anymore. Plus I think you get free tunes from them but jason would have to confirm that... dont get me wrong, I LOVE my 38r and takes a chit load of abuse with no issues yet. You have to ask yourself whats best in the longrun and what future mods will take place? I cant see the nltd turbos spooling as fast as the billet 38r but the billet nltd turbos might spool like stock or a hair better. So if your building a dd/tow pig thats something to think about also. If your wanting more top end then go with the 1.15 brutte from the get go. By the time you get the 1.15 housing and billet wheel for the 38r you'll be near or over $2k... I'd do the brutte 66 and be done with it... prolly wont spool worse then stock, cheaply rebuilt, warranty, and I think free tunes...

live life full throttle

man, lots of good choices now... and they are drop ins.

The 38r is a damn good turbo from a bone stock truck, to decent sized hybrids.

Op-a 1.15 housing on a 38r will make spoolup slower not cut it in half. You've got it backwards.

TyCorr said:

Op-a 1.15 housing on a 38r will make spoolup slower not cut it in half. You've got it backwards.

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a 1.15 WITH a WW2 would split the spool time,in theory. well the theory in my thick skull.

Jason@NLTD said:

The 38r and Brute will do what your looking to do. The Brute is a rebuildable version of the 38r and with a Billet wheel costs 300.00 less. Both turbo's can be rebuilt. The Brute for around 150.00 and the 38r for about 750.00 but let's face it, if the 38r let's go..your upgrading. Like the 38r we can get it to you with either a 1.0 or 1.15 housing.

All that said we can supply any of the 3 turbo's. We love the 38r. We just wanted to bring a rebuildable version to market. So the Brute was born.
The other part of the turbo you get is after sale service. With the Brute, we will stand behind it 100%...you'll never have an issue without some kind support or service.
The 38r...well I call Garrett and hope for the best. My pont is it's better dealing with the company that makes the product

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I know its a sunday and I also know its a big football weekend but if you could call or pm Id like to get the purchase process started on a turbol
707-624-6404

n54power said:

a 1.15 WITH a WW2 would split the spool time,in theory. well the theory in my thick skull.

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Not even in theory. Not in real life either. I have a 38r, i have a single plane/11 blade/billet compressor wheel, and ive had a 1.15 exh housing.

I am running the 1.00 a/r wg housing and billet wheel. The spoolup and higher boost MAY be something that can be measured with a billet wheel but I cant tell a friggin difference. Its quieter, the only reason its staying on my charger.

The 1.15 is a waste of time. I had it on my 38r with the 175/80s and it didnt do anything but drop 1psi of bp at wot and it lost me 3psi of boost. Its your money though.

Bill Cohron did extensive testing to confirm what I said and is my tuner to boot.

I think the 1.15 housing is for someone that wants to spray it.

I love my 38r with my 250/200's. It makes plenty of power and stays cool. I do wish I would have gone t4 but oh well, I'm satisfied for the most part just sticking with a 38r. The streetabliltiy and reliability is spot on.

Yea, if you want to spray or compound the 38r it could be beneficial but it wasnt designed with either of those in mind. It isnt a horrible part but its rather useless unless you just absolutely hate the wg in the 1.00 hsg. Even then, its not great.

David N said:

I think the 1.15 housing is for someone that wants to spray it.

I love my 38r with my 250/200's. It makes plenty of power and stays cool. I do wish I would have gone t4 but oh well, I'm satisfied for the most part just sticking with a 38r. The streetabliltiy and reliability is spot on.

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Oh and Ive got a set of those injectors waiting to go in with my setup.which is almost identical to yours.

so the main complaint with the 38r is the WG housing it comes with.
with that said,a billet wheel and non wg 1.0 housing would make it ideal drop in?

I just want a a super streetable truck that makes good power and tows better than stock.

i might be the minority but i junk out a 38r in under 15k miles. sucks to have to sell it as a core for basically nothin

n54power said:

so the main complaint with the 38r is the WG housing it comes with.
with that said,a billet wheel and non wg 1.0 housing would make it ideal drop in?

I just want a a super streetable truck that makes good power and tows better than stock.

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The biggest complaint from most people is the noise. It's a "whiny-b!tch."

n54power said:

so the main complaint with the 38r is the WG housing it comes with.
with that said,a billet wheel and non wg 1.0 housing would make it ideal drop in?

I just want a a super streetable truck that makes good power and tows better than stock.

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There are guys that love the 38R and for a DD they run them w/ a variety of sticks and are super pleased. Keep boost/bp in check w/ good tuning and your foot, things should be fine.

If you want a T4 and you'd like a smaller BB unit Garrett just released a GTX4088R that is a little bigger than the 38R and the map is improved as well. From there you could go to a GTX4294 as well.

Like Ty was saying, PHP did some testing w/ the 1.15 housing and found it lose power.

bruce said:

i might be the minority but i junk out a 38r in under 15k miles. sucks to have to sell it as a core for basically nothin

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Huh? If you said you ruined one in 15k then yes you are the minority. It may have been under warranty still, but I do NOT know for certain.

Mine has 20k on it and looks and operates like new. I know people with over 100k on them, zero issues.

Im not against other chargers but there are waaay too many people suggesting that someone with stock fueling spend 2grand(or more) to run an s 366. Some people will disagree but an s366, all things constant wont outlast a 38r. They're cheap and fall under "you get what you pay for".

Situations where I totally agree would be where someone wants to run a 42 r or 4294 or 4202. Id soup up a stock turbo.before Id spend twice as much as a 38r costs to run an s 366.Not to mention the cost of a gate to keep the bw turbo from vajayjaying itself.