Peroni
Member
Way back when I installed my intercooler I also modded the CCV so it wouldn't foul up the system with oily vapors. For years it vented to the atmosphere, zip tied behind the front cross member. I was always annoyed by the white vapor that came from it, especially in summer. Some folks could live with it just fine but I decided to do something about it.
After a few evenings searching around the internet I came across the Mann Hummel ProVent series of CCV filters. While there are several manufacturers - with Racor probably being the most well known - the units were rather large, expensive and would be difficult to connect up to in my limited space. I contacted Mann Hummel and they recommended their ProVent 200 series for my particular 7.3 engine's configuration. Forgot where I purchased it but the unit was under $200 including the optional check valve for the sump drain line.
The unit is made of what looks to be an injection molded nylon material. It is made in Germany and of very high quality. The cap features a built in pressure relief valve. It can be rotated in 45° increments and needs no tools to replace the element. The only hitch is that the standard model uses 1" hose barbs while the truck is 3/4". Nothing an adapter fitting wont fix so no worries.
I decided to mount the unit in a vacant hole by the IDM. This location offered enough clearance to change the element and was high enough to gravity drain any separated oil back to the sump. This thing is not very heavy so I mounted it using 2 of the IDM's bolts. I made up a simple aluminum bracket, slotting the mounting holes for ease of removal if I ever need to get to the IDM.
Fits nicely I think! I did install the sump drain hose before bolting the canister in place. It's the only part that is not easily accessible.
Now to hook everything up. All hoses were rated for use with oil and vacuum, they along with the rolled edge stainless hose clamps were sourced from McMaster Carr. First I put the dog house back to its stock orientation. A section of 90° molded hose makes for a smoother and neater route to the canister.
Unfortunately the only oil rated adapter I could come up with was made of white acetal. Someday when it bothers me enough I'll turn one from black acetal so it matches the hose and doesn't stand out. The adapter goes from 3/4 to 1".
Next step was to connect to the intake. I would have preferred to make some fancy bung with an integral barb that could be welded neatly to the intake pipe. Unfortunately my machine shop equipment is still in storage from moving so that's not going to happen for a while. For now I sourced a 1" beaded hose barb with 1"npt pipe threads. I marked the location and angle where the barb needed to be, traced the circular outline with a marker and got to work with my Dremel tool. After the correct size hole was made I followed up with a pipe tap. All burs were removed from both inside and outside of the pipe and thoroughly cleaned. I put a good sized bead of the Ford Gray Death sealant on the barb and threaded it into the intake pipe, smoothing the sealant around the joint both inside and out. A little crude but it does the job.
Last task it to plumb in the drain line to the sump. One could just let this drip on the ground or into a catch can but I preferred to get my moneys worth from the oil and returned it to work in the sump. I had to be a little creative as the only available port into the crankcase was going to be shared by my oil bypass return line. A one way check valve was installed into the drain line about a foot from the canister. I then ran the line to another barb installed into a tee with my bypass return line. Someday if I ever open up the engine I plan to drill and tap another hole and separate these two returns. However so far they've been working well together.
So how does all this work? I'm pleased to say quite well! I've not measured any crankcase pressures but oil isn't being forced out anywhere it shouldn't. No more white vapors wafting from under the truck and after 4000 miles there is still zero trace of oil in the intake. :clapping:
After a few evenings searching around the internet I came across the Mann Hummel ProVent series of CCV filters. While there are several manufacturers - with Racor probably being the most well known - the units were rather large, expensive and would be difficult to connect up to in my limited space. I contacted Mann Hummel and they recommended their ProVent 200 series for my particular 7.3 engine's configuration. Forgot where I purchased it but the unit was under $200 including the optional check valve for the sump drain line.
The unit is made of what looks to be an injection molded nylon material. It is made in Germany and of very high quality. The cap features a built in pressure relief valve. It can be rotated in 45° increments and needs no tools to replace the element. The only hitch is that the standard model uses 1" hose barbs while the truck is 3/4". Nothing an adapter fitting wont fix so no worries.
I decided to mount the unit in a vacant hole by the IDM. This location offered enough clearance to change the element and was high enough to gravity drain any separated oil back to the sump. This thing is not very heavy so I mounted it using 2 of the IDM's bolts. I made up a simple aluminum bracket, slotting the mounting holes for ease of removal if I ever need to get to the IDM.
Fits nicely I think! I did install the sump drain hose before bolting the canister in place. It's the only part that is not easily accessible.
Now to hook everything up. All hoses were rated for use with oil and vacuum, they along with the rolled edge stainless hose clamps were sourced from McMaster Carr. First I put the dog house back to its stock orientation. A section of 90° molded hose makes for a smoother and neater route to the canister.
Unfortunately the only oil rated adapter I could come up with was made of white acetal. Someday when it bothers me enough I'll turn one from black acetal so it matches the hose and doesn't stand out. The adapter goes from 3/4 to 1".
Next step was to connect to the intake. I would have preferred to make some fancy bung with an integral barb that could be welded neatly to the intake pipe. Unfortunately my machine shop equipment is still in storage from moving so that's not going to happen for a while. For now I sourced a 1" beaded hose barb with 1"npt pipe threads. I marked the location and angle where the barb needed to be, traced the circular outline with a marker and got to work with my Dremel tool. After the correct size hole was made I followed up with a pipe tap. All burs were removed from both inside and outside of the pipe and thoroughly cleaned. I put a good sized bead of the Ford Gray Death sealant on the barb and threaded it into the intake pipe, smoothing the sealant around the joint both inside and out. A little crude but it does the job.
Last task it to plumb in the drain line to the sump. One could just let this drip on the ground or into a catch can but I preferred to get my moneys worth from the oil and returned it to work in the sump. I had to be a little creative as the only available port into the crankcase was going to be shared by my oil bypass return line. A one way check valve was installed into the drain line about a foot from the canister. I then ran the line to another barb installed into a tee with my bypass return line. Someday if I ever open up the engine I plan to drill and tap another hole and separate these two returns. However so far they've been working well together.
So how does all this work? I'm pleased to say quite well! I've not measured any crankcase pressures but oil isn't being forced out anywhere it shouldn't. No more white vapors wafting from under the truck and after 4000 miles there is still zero trace of oil in the intake. :clapping:
