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Old 09-07-2011, 06:01 PM
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Default Comp 910 Valve Spring Install How-To

This thread will discuss the how to of installing Comp910-16 valve springs. This does not discuss the very important part of ensuring correct installed height. I will let TARM either add to this thread with that, or start a new thread on it. He has done it so many times, I couldn't be near as eloquent. Lol! I am using .030 shims in this just to show the mechanics of it.

This is under the understanding you already have everything removed including the injectors.

First ensure the cylinder you are working on is at top dead center. You can do this by using either a bendy straw, or other plastic probe long enough to slide into the injector cup, to gauge the position of the piston. I say plastic because a coat hanger or other metal probe may score the brass injector cup. Put the straw into the cylinder (provided its long enough. You may need a second person to hold it while you turn the motor over) Now put a socket on the crank and turn the motor over slowly by hand until the piston reaches the top of the cylinder. Move the straw up and down slightly while doing this so the straw does not get bound up.

Now remove the rocker arms using a 5/16" socket. Then pull the push rods if you are replacing them with aftermarket rods.


You will need a valve spring compressor to go on. I have this type shown below. It will need the bolt cut in half and a nut welded to the end as shown. I regularly loan mine out if you need one.


Put the compressor on the spring and tighten it down.


Once it is compressed the two keepers will come out. The best thing to do is use a telescopic magnet to get them out as you push the spring down.




Then just slide the compressor and spring off.

Then pull the valve seal off. Under the seal you will put the CORRECT shim.


Ensure the shim is completely seated. There are ridges around it where the factory machined the seat. It must fully seat onto the machined surface. Then replace the valve seal. You may have to pull up on the valve while pushing on the seal to move on to the next step.



Next compress the new comp910-16 valve spring with the spring head on.



Now insert the spring onto the valve.


Now reinstall the keepers. They're kinda fiddly little things so it is a good idea to put a rag behind the spring in case you drop one. Install them as they came out and release the tension on the spring.




Now install your new pushrods if you are upgrading them as well. Ensure they slip down into the bowl if the lifter. You will feel it go in.

Now reinstall the rocker arms and torque to 15#.

Reinstall the injector and the rest of the parts you removed.

All done!

P.s. don't forget to repeat the process for finding top dead center of each cylinder before removing that cylinder's valve springs. We don't want any valves falling into the cylinder.

Also, to get the rear valvesprings out, you may need to jack the engine up. Just as in the head stud how to, remove the motor mounts and jack up one side using a 2x4 to reach the exhaust manifold from the jack.
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Last edited by vanderchevy18; 09-07-2011 at 06:03 PM.
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Old 09-07-2011, 07:12 PM
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Nice write up with pictures to go with it. The picture really help with the explanation of steps.
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Old 09-07-2011, 07:39 PM
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Nice write ups!
When I did mine I removed the heater box on the passenger side to help give more room.
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Old 09-07-2011, 07:44 PM
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Oh Geez I totally forgot about that! You have to remove the airbox. For studs too. I'll go add that to the stud writeup. Thanks!
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Old 09-17-2011, 01:17 AM
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You should copy and paste that clip about the shim sizes and seat pressure.

As well as can this be done without pulling the injectors ?
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Old 09-17-2011, 03:41 AM
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Here is the link to the Comp Cams Valve Spring Specs Sheet. The 910 is on page 3 of 6 on the right #910

Here is the specs and needed info:

Here are the specs for the 910 striaght from Comp cams:

Base install height: 1.850" Maximum Coil Bind Height: 1.280" Inside / Outside diameter: 1.354" / 0.940 Spring Rate: 415 lbs

Install height : lbs 1.900" : 72 lbs 1.850" : 92 lbs 1.800" : 113 lbs 1.750" : 134 lbs 1.700" : 155 lbs 1.650" : 175 lbs 1.600" : 196 lbs


Factory install specs:

Install height: 1.810 Factory seal integral shim .045" Spring install height with seal: 1.76" Cam .410" Max Coil Bind height: 1.28"

I would recommend simply following the above install heights for the Comp Cams 910s as well that will give you a 130lb seat pressure. IMO between 1.750"-1.760" including seal and 1.800"-1.810" with out seal (measurement goal for use with micrometer) This will get you seat pressure between 130lb-134lb.

For reference here is the stock OEM spring specs new:

Closed Seat Pressure @ 1.76" = 110 lbs Open Pressure @ 1.35" = 250 lbs 350lbs per inch rate

A few stock springs had been tested that had 100K miles on them by individuals that posted the findings and seat pressure was found to be reduced down to barely 70lb at that point. Thus you can see the issue and why these springs were considered soft.




The shims I recommend are from Jegs. They come in a multi shim thickness kit

JEGS Valve Spring Shim Kit #555-20591

Valve Spring Shim Kit
1.437" O.D.
0.645" I.D.
Includes:
(16) 0.015" (blue tempered spring steel)
(16) 0.030" (case hardened steel)
(16) 0.060" (case hardened steel)

If you want to do the most accurate job of shimming back to a specific height such as factory spec then I recommend purchasing 2 packs that way you can combine two or more as needed to get the proper height for each valve. This way you could combine a 0.015 and a 0.030 if you needed 0.045 to reach proper seat height spec. Or most any combo you might need to get you close enough.

From what I have seen and given even minor amounts of cam and valve train wear and the max coil bind height of 1.28" and that is the max it can be and mine all measured lower. You could set your seat range without binding issues and a safety margin between 1.74 - 1.76 For every 0.01" of height compression pressure increases by roughly 4.1 lbs 1.74" = 138 lbs 1.75" = 134 lbs 1.76" (stock height spec) = 130 lbs



I also recommend getting the Proform micrometer from Jegs as well as its not to costly and has a decent range that covers both above and below 1.800" which IMO is needed.

Proform Valve Spring Height Mic 66902 JEGs#778-66902


This should give you all the reference info you need to do the springs accurately and to the correct seat heights.
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Old 09-17-2011, 06:33 AM
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Thanks TARM!
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Old 09-17-2011, 11:58 AM
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Wow great info, wonder if we can sticky this or have this bookmarked in a How to thread?
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Old 09-17-2011, 01:42 PM
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This needs a sticky !

In the pics you don't have the injectors in. However I was just mocking up the valve spring tool and it seems this could be done with injectors in place.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but for someone just wanting to help out a tired motor and not swapping injectors would save a lot of time.
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Old 09-17-2011, 03:16 PM
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Great job, that info was more tools in the bag for me.
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Old 09-17-2011, 03:44 PM
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Great job. I will leave this for a bit to see about any good additions. After that, it will not be a sticky. It will go into the West Point.

As far as if you have to remove injectors, I think you can do it with injectors in. You will want to pull the glow plugs for the test rod to look for TDC. Also, I did mine without pulling the air box.

My valve spring compressor looks exactly like that also. On the passenger side I used a ratcheting box end wrench (no room for a socket and ratchet, air box was in the way).
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Last edited by Arisley; 09-17-2011 at 03:48 PM.
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Old 09-17-2011, 04:06 PM
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Not sure how you use the micrometer to measure the height.
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Old 09-17-2011, 04:32 PM
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The depth gauge rod in the bottom?
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Old 09-17-2011, 04:49 PM
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Read the description but does it measure at a set tension?
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Old 09-19-2011, 01:51 AM
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Where can i find a Tool like that? I'll be doing some springs down the road.
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Old 09-19-2011, 02:47 AM
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After installing the keepers and you have let the valve spring compressor loose AND rotated the crank so that cylinder is no longer at TDC, I like to tap the valves with a rubber mallet. Just to ensure that the keepers are seated properly. Just my .02
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Old 09-19-2011, 05:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Homesteader View Post
Where can i find a Tool like that? I'll be doing some springs down the road.
The valve spring tool? Any parts store will have one. It has a star shaped handle on the top to tighten it with. It needs to come off and weld a nut on the top of it.
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Old 09-19-2011, 06:24 AM
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I need sell my valve spring compressor. Took the head apart now don't need it.
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Old 03-28-2012, 06:43 AM
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I made this thread a sticky as it needs to go to the library. It appears there is confusion on using the micrometer. Can someone address that esp with some photos?

Tom
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Old 03-28-2012, 07:46 AM
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Good write up. I will be following these directions in the next couple weeks.
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Old 03-28-2012, 02:45 PM
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Ok, I'm not gonna lie.. when it comes to the calculating of this stuff.... I'm kinda retarded.

Looking at the chart... 134lbs seems to be the closest to 130. So it needs a height of 1.750 to reach that.

Installed height of the spring is 1.850, according to the chart.

So I need to shim it 0.1 correct?

What I see for shim sizes are .03 or .015. So you can shim to either .09 or .105.

I'm guessing everyone shims to .105?

or am I way off base here?
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Old 03-28-2012, 04:12 PM
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Wish I would've saw this thread awhile ago, shimming was where I got kinda hung up
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Old 03-29-2012, 01:06 AM
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install the height micrometer instead of a valve spring, and then rotate the dial to expand the tool to seat the valve, locks and retainer.from there you can tell what shim you will need...
the way i read it.. you want between 1.750"-1.760" including seal and 1.800"-1.810" with out seal... This will get you a seat pressure between 130lb-134lb.

dont hold me to this but it sounds about right...
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Last edited by Ron's Power Stroke; 03-29-2012 at 01:10 AM.
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Old 03-29-2012, 02:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron's Power Stroke View Post
install the height micrometer instead of a valve spring, and then rotate the dial to expand the tool to seat the valve, locks and retainer.from there you can tell what shim you will need...
the way i read it.. you want between 1.750"-1.760" including seal and 1.800"-1.810" with out seal... This will get you a seat pressure between 130lb-134lb.

dont hold me to this but it sounds about right...
^^^ you install the tool on to the valve as if you was intalling the valve sping into the head...but instad of the putting the spring in..you put the tool in its place...after you have reached you goal hight...put the spring in and lock her down, then move on...


side note: use the same retainer, keepers etc for the spring you are shimming.. each valve, retainer etc might be slightly different in size and thickness and can change your measurement...






I would also like to add that some times black soot can build up on the valve not letting it seal like it should..if you can get a drill to bite onto the valve stem without hurting it..it wouldn't hurt to spin the valve against the head by pulling up on the valve while spinning it to clean the soot off...don't go crazy..just a quick spin is all you need..I have not tried to do this yet on a 7.3 but I cant see why it wouldnt work here..my motor will be out...a motor still in could be hard to do..
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Last edited by Hotrodtractor; 03-29-2012 at 02:30 PM.
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Old 03-29-2012, 08:45 PM
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Ok, I'm more confused now, and I don't have this tool.

If anyone who read my previous post understands it and can answer it, I would greatly appreciate it.
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Old 03-29-2012, 11:31 PM
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maybe this will help you...


Quote:
Originally Posted by golfer View Post
as the valve (seats) wear...the valve recesses further & further into the head...thereby making the springs' installed height 'taller' than on a fresh head.

OEM spec (off the top of my head) for valve recession in the head is @ .040" +/-

we've had customers supply their own 'rebuilt' heads with new valves and the "works" with the valves recessed closer to .080...

machine shop work (& knowledge), mileage, as well as how clean the air was that went through the engine (dirtier air will increase valve seat wear, further recessing the valve)

as a rough ballpark...trucks with 200k miles on them (typically) will need at least .030 shim to hit our desired installed height for the 910 springs (1.780") which equates to just under 125lbs of seat pressure.

springs installed @ 1.75" would have @ 134lbs of seat pressure.

getting much higher than @ 150lbs of seat pressure can cause the hydraulic lifter spring to collapse and start affecting actual valve lift...without doing things inside the lifter to combat this.

the factory specs are 71-79lbs of seat pressure @ 1.833" installed height, for both I&E valves.

so jusssst swapping in a set of 910's would take you from 71-79lbs to @ 99lbs with no shims.

the valve face diameter is 1.67"...

if you were running (for instance) 45lbs of boost...with stock springs...

you would have ~75lbs of force (45 x 1.67) acting on the valve to open it...without any help from the camshaft...not to mention backpressure acting upon the exh valve (which is typically higher than your boost pressure).

so...a spring is just a spring...sitting on a table..it has zero seat pressure ...

installing the spring to do a specific task (high boost high rpm, etc) should be the concern. so I would recommend that you consider your boost & rpm when setting up your seat load.

...and for those that think if some more (pressure) is good...than a "lot" (more) must be better...just keep in mind that the higher the seat load...the more valve wear will occur from the harder 'hit' that the valve & seat absorbs with every opening & closing.
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Old 03-30-2012, 12:19 PM
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What we really need here are some photos.
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Old 03-31-2012, 09:47 AM
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I'd post some more but I haven't taken any more since those were taken. Next valve spring job I do I'll post pics.
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Old 04-29-2012, 06:42 AM
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Hey guys, I just finished mynvalve spring install with 9-10s and the jegs valve Height tool, you ins tall e tool at lowest height for ease of installing keepers. Then you extend it till it's just about snug and turn the dial towards you so you can see and turn it .05 out and that should be pretty dead nuts to Installed spring height.
I have 178k on my truck and WITHOUT the valve seal which equates to a .060 shim. My truck was what I thought in spec. All my valves measured to 1.82-1.830. So you subtract the shim which brings you to a valve up to 1.76-1.77. I added a .015 shim which brought my valves to a 1.745-1.755 which mentioned above is where we roughly want to get to our goal of 130-134lbs of seat pressure


And the reason I said with out the valve seal is because I found it doesn't exactly fit in this skinny little tool.
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Old 05-01-2012, 06:50 PM
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Yes as far as I know you always measure without the faculty seal/shim in place. I used a different spring micrometer and that is all it was a micrometer only. You still had to do it without the seal in place. Then add it back in. I went thru and measures each of them just in case there was different rates of wear as I wanted all to have the same amount of lift, timing, and tension. Took some extra time but worth it IMO if for nothing more than confidence in doing things with precision.
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Old 05-07-2012, 05:50 AM
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We finally did my motor last week, motor was on a stand and was a project in itself. No way I'd ever want to do that in frame, what a pain that would be.
250k miles on motor. Most needed .050" or .060", and I think 4 of the intake valves needed .070"+.
Also, my shims from Jegs were supposed to be .015" but came as .020", so make sure to double check yours.
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Old 05-07-2012, 08:39 AM
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Hahaha!! Yeah its a tad bit harder in frame but its pretty much a wash. You spend more time and have more work pulling the engine, but you also spend more time and its harder doing it in frame. I've done all of the ones I've done in frame.
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Old 05-07-2012, 08:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vanderchevy18 View Post
Hahaha!! Yeah its a tad bit harder in frame but its pretty much a wash. You spend more time and have more work pulling the engine, but you also spend more time and its harder doing it in frame. I've done all of the ones I've done in frame.


If I was going to do springs, studs and push rods in another motor, it would be on a stand.
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Old 05-07-2012, 03:06 PM
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We can have either the motor out or body up in 2 to 3 hours. Not worth doing all that work on your stomach for that...
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Old 08-16-2012, 02:53 PM
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I was installing some 910 and shims and thought I would take a picture of the gauge so people know how to use it. This one measured at 1.848

[IMG][/IMG]

Last edited by Shaw; 08-16-2012 at 02:56 PM.
  #36  
Old 08-16-2012, 03:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaw View Post
I was installing some 910 and shims and thought I would take a picture of the gauge so people know how to use it. This one measured at 1.848

[IMG][/IMG]
Just to make it easier to see:

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Old 08-16-2012, 04:42 PM
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Hmm, and here I thought I had every tool under the sun...... Where do I find one of those?
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  #38  
Old 08-16-2012, 08:57 PM
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RubberDuck - look up at Tarm's post. Its from Jegs.


Jason, How do you make the picture big like that?
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Old 08-17-2012, 06:31 AM
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Quote:
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Jason, How do you make the picture big like that?
In Webshots there is a image code location on the right hand side where it gives you the direct link code, forum code, etc... for the particular image - across the top of that box there is about 4 different image sizes - Webshots defaults to the smallest one - just click on the one on the far right (largest one) and you get image code for a larger picture.

Hope that helps.

Jason
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Old 08-17-2012, 09:04 AM
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Easy enough, thank you!!!
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Old 08-17-2012, 01:53 PM
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I have that tool from Jegs.
On the second set of shims we were doing the tool came apart. Apparently it's made of 2 pieces that just press together.
Handle it gently (I thought we were!) or you'll be buying another one 1/2 way through your project.
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Old 08-17-2012, 05:18 PM
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Duely noted.
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Old 08-20-2012, 09:50 AM
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Any word on a write up on how to mic the springs for shims? That is the part I need help with. I've changed springs before, but have never measured heights and whatnot.
-Aaron
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