Step 1: Make reference marks on the wall
- Find a suitable location at least 20’ from a flat wall and park your truck in front of it. Be sure the truck is perpendicular to the wall and not pointed one way or the other. Turn your headlights on and make some reference marks of your low beams. You are really just concerned with the height and the center of the beam. It’s hard to reference the halogen beam pattern because it is so dispersed and unfocused but do the best you can. You are only using this to make sure the projectors are close to being aimed correctly when you install them. Since these projectors are an “easy fit” this step is not very critical because they should be close when you install them.
Step 2: Remove grill to access the headlights
- There are 4 bolts across the top of the grill. Remove these with a 10mm socket and set aside. Before removing use a permanent marker and make some reference lines on the truck for correct alignment when reassembling. After removing the bolts tilt the grill out from the top and you will see some access holes for the lower grill clips. Using a flathead screwdriver push these clips down and the grill will release. Place grill on some towels on the floor.
Step 3: Remove the headlights
-Each headlight has 4 bolts; one on the top, two on the inside close to the radiator and one on the bottom. Using a 10mm socket remove these and set aside. For the bottom bolt you will most likely need a ¼” drive ratchet with a long extension and a short 10mm socket. On my truck I could not get to the bolt with a 3/8” drive ratchet because I didn’t have enough clearance under the headlight. Once you get the headlight pulled out disconnect all the wiring (headlight bulb, side marker and turn signal). Repeat for other side.
Step 4: Preheat oven
-Preheat your oven to 240°. Be sure that you have your oven rack set to the lowest position and use a couple of pans covered in aluminum foil to set the headlights on. This will protect the plastic from touching bare metal. One thing I learned while doing this is it’s best to decide how you want to put the headlights in the oven before preheating. Mine would only fit in mine one way.
Step 5: Bake headlights
- Remove all of the bulbs from the headlights. Be sure that you also remove the rubber grommet for the H13 bulb. There is also a tiny screw in the corner of the headlight. Remove it as well. Place the first headlight in the oven and let it heat for 15 minutes. Begin prying around the edges of the headlight channel with a flat head screwdriver or a small chisel. I found it easiest to pry all the way around the headlight to release the glue from the outside of the lens before going any farther. Once you release the glue from the outside use a small screwdriver and get under the lens. Begin prying up until you can fit another screwdriver under the lens. Using both screwdrivers start working your way around the housing. This step requires A LOT of patience and you will have to reheat the housing a couple more times. When you do reheat only let it go for 10 minutes or so and then start working again. The housing is sealed with Permaseal and it is a bear to break loose. The good thing is once you get a good run of it loosened up you can actually pull the headlights apart with your hands. It’s a bit scary at first because you do have to use some force but the headlights are pretty tough. Just don’t do anything stupid. Repeat for the opposite side. NOTE: IF YOU PLAN TO PAINT THE HEADLIGHTS NOW IS THE TIME TO DO IT. I OPTED NOT TO SO IT’S NOT COVERED IN THIS DIY BUT THERE IS A WEALTH OF INFORMATION ONLINE AS WELL AS THIS FORUM ABOUT HOW TO PAINT HEADLIGHTS.
Step 5: Remove reflector buckets
- Once you have the headlights apart you will want to remove the reflector bucket. You can do this two ways; you can either pop the balls out of their ball sockets or you can drill two holes and remove two torx screws the hold the reflector buckets to the ball sockets. I opted to drill the holes because that’s what I did on my last retrofit and there isn’t a chance of breaking the clips on the ball socket. They are easily broken and I didn’t want to worry about it. Use a small drill bit and drill holes where I did in the pictures. It doesn’t have to be dead center on the torx screw but the closer the better. Once you get the small holes drilled use a larger bit (about a 3/8”) so that you can get your torx screwdriver (T20) in there to remove the bolt. Remove the bolts and set aside. Now you can pull the reflector bucket out of the housing. You can also go ahead and remove the bulb cover with a T20 driver. Repeat for other side.
Step 6: Remove all Permaseal from headlights
- Now that the back of the headlights are stripped put them back in the oven for 10 minutes. Using a flathead remove ALL of the Permaseal from the headlight channels. The best way I have found to do this is get a flathead small enough to fit in the channel (about an 1/8”) and just start “popping” the sealant out. Once you get a chunk of it released from the headlight you can pull it and if you do it right you can get a couple inches at a time to release before the sealant breaks off. Continue doing this around the entire light. Once you get all of the sealant removed from the backs make sure there is none on the lens. Luckily for me I only had a small amount stuck to the lens and it came right off. I would advise to not reheat the lens alone. Repeat for other side.
Step 7: Modify the H13 bulb socket
- Take the buckets and set them up on an outside table. Clamp them to the table and then position your shop-vac to pull the dust away from you. Start with your sanding drum and sand the twist locks out of the H13 bulb socket. Once you have a smooth surface to work with take your cutoff wheel and remove approximately 3/8” from the bulb socket. Be sure that you mark this and cut it with a steady hand because this step is crucial. Since the projector uses a nut to hold it in place if you make a crooked cut the projector will set crooked when tightened down. Now that you have the bulb socket cut down swap back to your sanding drum and start sanding the inside of the bulb socket down very slowly. After you sand a little away test fit the projector mounting shaft in the hole. You want to just barely be able to slide it through the hole. Once the projector fits into the hole from the backside you are ready to continue to the next step. Repeat for other side.
Step 8: Modify OEM bulb cover base
- If you attempt to test fit your projector at this point you will notice that it contacts the OEM bulb cover base. Using your sanding drum sand away the bulb cover base until the projector has plenty of clearance. This will not be seen once the shroud is mounted so make sure you get plenty of it out of the way. Repeat for other side.
Step 9: Install projector
- Now that the projector is free of any obstructions go ahead and install it. Make sure the rubber washer is on the inside of the reflector bucket and install the projector through the hole. Using the supplied nut secure the projector to the bucket. At this point you need to install the D2S bulb and be sure that you have enough threads sticking out to secure the bulb properly. I had to go back and remove more material from the back of the reflector bucket because I couldn’t tighten down on the bulb enough. Go ahead and tighten the nut as tight as you can and eyeball the rotation. Even though it’s tight you will still be able to rotate the projector during the alignment step. You can also go ahead and plug in the connection to the high beam solenoid and run the wiring out of the reflector using the slot on the underside of the bulb cover base. Another thing you will need to do here is sand the back of the bulb socket at an upward angle to allow the projector to be aimed slightly upwards in the reflector bucket. You'll find it necessary to sand some of the inside of the reflector bucket above the bulb hole as well. Repeat for other side.
Step 10: Mount reflector buckets back into headlight housing backs
- Reinstall the reflector buckets into the housings using the torx screws you saved. Be sure that when you tighten down the screws the mounting posts are flat. In other words don’t bind the screws up and cross thread them. Go ahead and run your high beam solenoid wires out of the back of the bucket. Repeat for other side.
Step 11: Install relay harness
- At this time you will need to install the relay harness. I did not take any picture of this step but it’s pretty self explanatory. Connect power wire to battery (+) and find a suitable ground location for each ballasts. I used a bolt that holds the fender on because it was easily accessible and provided a good ground. Connect one of the H13 plugs and tape/tie the other one out of the way. You will have to play with the harness a bit to get it to fit because it is ALMOST too short to work for our trucks. I really wish TRS would extend the wiring by about a foot.
Step 11: Check rotation
- Now the you have the harness installed and both reflector buckets remounted to the housing go ahead and install them on the truck. Connect the igniter to the ballasts and make the high beam connection. Go ahead and test both projectors and make sure you have low beams and high beams as well as a suitable cutoff (sharpness is what we are concerned with here). If the cutoff is blurry and/or out of focus check the bulb seating. You may have to reseat the bulb a few times or move it around a little. There is some play and a little movement goes a long way. Once you are happy with the cutoff go ahead and bolt the headlights in place using ALL of the original bolts. If you do not bolt them in using every bolt you won’t get a true representation of your actual cutoff because each bolt puts some torque/stress on the housing. I know that sounds like common sense but it’s an easy step to miss in the moment. Turn your headlights back on and make sure you have enough of an adjustment range on the beam. If for some reason you need more vertical adjustment you can put a shim (washer works well for this) between the ball socket base and reflector bucket post. However you will have to remove the headlight to do this. If you sanded your bulb socket base evenly you shouldn’t need to shim anything. Now that you are happy with your vertical adjustment adjust the rotation as necessary. I wanted to be sure that my projector would never move so I put some JB weld on the back of the reflector bucket to the projector. This is optional but if you decide to do it make sure that you do not get any JB weld on the bulb retaining nut. Needless to say it won’t come out if you do!
Step 12: Install shrouds and halo rings (if required)
- If you opted to put JB weld on the projector it’s a good idea to let the truck set for at least 6 hours so that the JB can cure. Now go ahead and remove the headlights from the truck and set them on your bench. If you are using halos attach them to the shrouds at this point. I didn’t take pictures of this step and I’m not going to document it because there are many ways to do it. I used the drill and wire method that TRS suggests and I believe it will work fine. Mix up a small amount of JB weld and put some on the top, bottom and sides of the projector. Slide the shroud in place and let the JB set. If you installed halo rings you need to go ahead and get the wiring out. I couldn’t push it out easily so I used a small piece of wire and snaked it through the headlight. Now you need to go ahead and blow out the headlight and reflector bucket with some canned compressed air and clean the reflector bucket (if you left it chrome). Only use a microfiber on this. It scratches very easily! Repeat for other side.
Step 13: Put new butyl tape in headlights
- Take your butyl tape and apply a very generous bead all the way around the headlight. The butyl will be much too large right off the roll so you will have to stretch it as you install it. You want it to completely fill the housing channel so you get a good seal. Slightly overlap the start/stop. Also if you drilled holes to take the reflector buckets out you will want to cover the holes with some butyl. Repeat for other side.
Step 14: Install lens
- Preheat oven to 240°. Take your compressed air and blow out the inside of the headlight lens to be sure there is no dust in it. Whatever you do…… DO NOT wipe the inside of the lens because you will scratch it. Unless you handled the inside of the lens the compressed air will get everything out. Now take the lens and push it into the butyl as much as possible. You can use pliers and go around the outside of the headlight to get it squeezed together. Once you have it together to the best of your ability put it back in the oven for 10 minutes. This will really soften the butyl and let you squeeze the headlights together much better. You want to see butyl oozing out of the channel. It will be hidden anyways and this will ensure a good seal. Clamp the headlights together and let them set for 24 hours. You can get creative with this if you don’t have lots of clamps laying around. I’ve seen everything from ratchet straps to zip ties used in place of clamps. Once you get them clamped you also need to install your bulbs back in to make sure there isn’t any dust/lint to get in the housings.
Step 15: Modify rubber housing caps
- While you are waiting for you headlights to cure go ahead and modify your housing caps to fit. I punched some small holes in the cap for the high beam and halo wires to pass through. Using the igniter make a guide mark around the top of the cap and cut a hole in the cap. This thing is pretty tough to cut so once again a little patience will be required.
Step 16: Install headlights on the truck
- Now for the moment you’ve been waiting for…….. Install them on the truck! At this point I’m pretty sure you know how to reinstall the headlights so go ahead and do it now. Turn them on and be sure everything functions properly. If so go ahead and reinstall the grill. Be sure to pay attention to the alignment marks you made to begin with so everything lines back up. Now you need to go ahead and aim the headlights so they are not blinding others. The manual has a good info section on doing this. That’s it! You’re all done! Now it’s finally time to step back and admire your work. See….. it wasn’t THAT bad!
