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  #1  
Old 12-14-2015, 11:19 AM
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Default Track Rod Joint - A Must Have Upgrade!!!

Do you have a 2005 or newer superduty experiencing the infamous death wobble at cruising speeds? Have you paid tp replace your factory track rod joint only to have it fail again and again?

The factory joint is a weak inferior unit, that doesn't do a very good job of keeping things tight, and is also prone to have a shake or "death wobble" on mid to high cruising speeds. We've also had many people complain of this effect being multiplied when lifting their vehicle, or adding larger wheels & tires. As the miles on the vehicle increase, the effect only gets worse, and more violent.

One of our salesman even killed a stock track rod joint on a 2015 F350 with only 8,900 miles. The dealer claimed 35" tires were to blame. The real cause was a poorly designed part prematurely failing..
Our premier design replaces the weak factory joint with our heavy duty unit, to cure death wobble, and also gives you the ability to flip your track rod to the top of the axle. This helps to keep the geometry to a much safer range on lifted vehicles. This also lets you run a factory track rod on a 6" lifted 05+ superduty.

We have spent years testing and abusing our track rod joint to be sure we can provide you with the absolute strongest, safest, most durable, and easiest to install unit on the market. We ship you an assembled unit with detailed instructions to make your installation a breeze.

This unit works with factory, aftermarket, or the soon to be released One Up Offroad heavy duty track rod.

In stock, ready to ship today, this is one of the best replacement parts on the market you can purchase for your vehicle.

399.00 + Freight. Available through us and all of our certified dealers everywhere.

888-98-ONE UP
sales@oneupoffroad.com / order@oneupoffroad.com
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Old 12-14-2015, 11:51 AM
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Do you have any pictures??
  #3  
Old 12-14-2015, 01:11 PM
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Good stuff. I have 1 and I've never experienced death wobble and I don't run extra steering dampeners like most big tire guys do. I'd say it definitely works.


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Originally Posted by Breaking Habits View Post
This unit works with factory, aftermarket, or the soon to be released One Up Offroad heavy duty track rod.
Gonna be sweet.
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Old 12-14-2015, 07:47 PM
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Do you have any pictures??

How's this?
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  #5  
Old 12-14-2015, 09:48 PM
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Got one of these headed my way! Ready to say goodbye to death wobble!

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Old 12-14-2015, 09:50 PM
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BTW talked to Jared before ordering, He knows his stuff.. Thanks for taking the time

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Old 12-14-2015, 10:01 PM
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BTW talked to Jared before ordering, He knows his stuff.. Thanks for taking the time

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Thank you buddy. I appreciate the kind words
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  #8  
Old 12-25-2015, 05:32 PM
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any one got this installed yet? when will the complete ouo track bar be available?Will it have this joint as option? thanks!
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  #9  
Old 12-25-2015, 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by BIG JUICE View Post
any one got this installed yet? when will the complete ouo track bar be available?Will it have this joint as option? thanks!
I've had one on my truck for a few months and ending up taking my dual steering stabilizer off. No death wobble and love it.
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Old 12-26-2015, 10:54 PM
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Originally Posted by WhiteMamba_Scorpion View Post
I've had one on my truck for a few months and ending up taking my dual steering stabilizer off. No death wobble and love it.
you got this installed like stock and under? or what I plan to level with icon coils...
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  #11  
Old 12-27-2015, 06:12 AM
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Originally Posted by BIG JUICE View Post
you got this installed like stock and under? or what I plan to level with icon coils...
I'm leveled on 35s
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  #12  
Old 12-28-2015, 12:01 AM
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Been running one on a stock height truck, a 2.5" lifted one, and a 4" lifted one. 25,000 miles total between my 3. No issues. Tons of these things out there. They are flat out awesome
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  #13  
Old 12-28-2015, 06:52 AM
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So if a truck has death wobble (stock suspension) with 55k on it, would this joint be the most likely culprit?
  #14  
Old 12-28-2015, 12:49 PM
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Got mine installed! Drove almost 2k and no death wobble. Before it would n't go 60 miles!

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Old 12-28-2015, 01:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sootie View Post
So if a truck has death wobble (stock suspension) with 55k on it, would this joint be the most likely culprit?

Or the upper trackbar rubber joint.

With the truck off have someone in the truck move the steering wheel left to right fast and go under and check for movement. There should be zero.


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Old 12-28-2015, 01:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sootie View Post
So if a truck has death wobble (stock suspension) with 55k on it, would this joint be the most likely culprit?
It always helps to replace. Even on a completely stock truck I noticed a difference.

Quote:
Originally Posted by superstroked90 View Post
Got mine installed! Drove almost 2k and no death wobble. Before it would n't go 60 miles!

Glad to hear buddy! Thanks again for the business!

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  #17  
Old 12-28-2015, 07:03 PM
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hmmmm... no death wobble but i do have a shimmy.. thought it was a bent rim..

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass
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  #18  
Old 12-28-2015, 08:07 PM
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Default Track Rod Joint - A Must Have Upgrade!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by lincolnlocker View Post
hmmmm... no death wobble but i do have a shimmy.. thought it was a bent rim..

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass

Still have that shimmy? Any friends that you can swap rims with?


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Old 12-28-2015, 08:26 PM
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Still have that shimmy? Any friends that you can swap rims with?


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i will when i rotate tires.. lol.. one out of 4 had a wobble when i balanced them when i put the new tires on..

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass
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  #20  
Old 12-28-2015, 09:09 PM
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Cant wait to get a couple of these!
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Old 12-28-2015, 10:33 PM
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so no need for a dual steerizing stabilizer with this upgrade?? about to pull the trigger on it so would love to hear if not needed anymore. readylift 1.5" spacer in the front with 285/75/17 nitto MT's. on a 15' 350 drw.
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Old 12-28-2015, 10:41 PM
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Originally Posted by oscard0215 View Post
so no need for a dual steerizing stabilizer with this upgrade?? about to pull the trigger on it so would love to hear if not needed anymore. readylift 1.5" spacer in the front with 285/75/17 nitto MT's. on a 15' 350 drw.

Poor tires will still shake, because of the tire itself.

This is one of the largest contributing factors to death wobble. Our upgraded radius arms combined with this are fool proof.
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  #23  
Old 12-29-2015, 06:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Breaking Habits View Post
Poor tires will still shake, because of the tire itself.

This is one of the largest contributing factors to death wobble. Our upgraded radius arms combined with this are fool proof.
is that one of the reasons that the 6.7s front end chatter so bad when sled pulling? i have only seen a few do it as mine did but they appear to try and do a chevy and wheel hop at the same time..

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass
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Old 12-29-2015, 10:30 AM
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is that one of the reasons that the 6.7s front end chatter so bad when sled pulling? i have only seen a few do it as mine did but they appear to try and do a chevy and wheel hop at the same time..

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass

Its a small part. This is for all 05+ trucks. The radius arm bushing is culprit number 1
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Old 12-29-2015, 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Breaking Habits View Post
Its a small part. This is for all 05+ trucks. The radius arm bushing is culprit number 1

How would one stop wheel hop sled pulling?


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Old 12-29-2015, 10:41 AM
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Its a small part. This is for all 05+ trucks. The radius arm bushing is culprit number 1
ahhh 10-4. thank you sir

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass
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Old 12-29-2015, 11:09 AM
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How would one stop wheel hop sled pulling?


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The ALA's combined with proper tire pressure and good shocks do a VERY good job of reducing the hop and the joint helps cut down the chatter.

Unfortunately most people don't realize that track conditions and tire pressure play a huge part in all of it.
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  #28  
Old 12-29-2015, 01:33 PM
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Ratchet strap the front suspension down as tights as you can get it
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  #29  
Old 12-29-2015, 02:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Breaking Habits View Post
The ALA's combined with proper tire pressure and good shocks do a VERY good job of reducing the hop and the joint helps cut down the chatter.

Unfortunately most people don't realize that track conditions and tire pressure play a huge part in all of it.
tire pressures fir sure.. one guy on here posted that he ran as little as 15lbs in his front tires on his 6.7 to combat it all and the vid proved to be smooth as hell..

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass
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  #30  
Old 12-29-2015, 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by lincolnlocker View Post
tire pressures fir sure.. one guy on here posted that he ran as little as 15lbs in his front tires on his 6.7 to combat it all and the vid proved to be smooth as hell..

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass
My 6.4 runs 15-17LBS in the front..
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  #31  
Old 12-29-2015, 04:06 PM
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My 6.4 runs 15-17LBS in the front..
yours is a lil different though.. lol

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass
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  #32  
Old 12-29-2015, 04:26 PM
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yours is a lil different though.. lol

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass
You mean because it actually makes power?
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  #33  
Old 12-29-2015, 04:28 PM
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You mean because it actually makes power?
haha! yeah.... and im thinkin the front axle/suspension is not stock..

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass
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Old 12-29-2015, 09:19 PM
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Thanks for the info Jarad. Sled pulls are coming to AZ, so I want to run my truck. Never did in my life. And REALLY want to. Any pointers?

Asking you aswell Jake, being you pull quite a bit aswell.


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Old 12-29-2015, 11:05 PM
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Thanks for the info Jarad. Sled pulls are coming to AZ, so I want to run my truck. Never did in my life. And REALLY want to. Any pointers?

Asking you aswell Jake, being you pull quite a bit aswell.


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what one you gonna pull? war wagon or 6.7?

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass
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Old 12-29-2015, 11:06 PM
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what one you gonna pull? war wagon or 6.7?

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass

Don't know yet. Probably the 7.3. But maybe the 6.7 lol. I wouldn't care one bit if I break the 7.3 pulling. I would with the 6.7 lol.


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Old 01-07-2016, 10:31 AM
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Did I read that right, $400 just for the joint?
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Old 01-07-2016, 12:21 PM
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Did I read that right, $400 just for the joint?

Yes you did. They are extremely expensive to manufacture and very time consuming to assemble.

Ask any of the guys running them how much better they are. Plus the ability to flip the track on top of the axle is awesome on lifted trucks.

Maybe not for everyone, but everyone who has them loves them.
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Old 01-07-2016, 12:34 PM
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Wow, that's more than the aftermarket track bar itself...

I'd have to be in dire need with repeated stock joint failures to need one.
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Old 01-07-2016, 08:24 PM
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I cut and turned my aftermarket trac bar to flip it . Can i still use this ? I wear one out about every year . This would be great .
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Old 02-06-2016, 02:21 AM
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Yes you did. They are extremely expensive to manufacture and very time consuming to assemble.

Ask any of the guys running them how much better they are. Plus the ability to flip the track on top of the axle is awesome on lifted trucks.

Maybe not for everyone, but everyone who has them loves them.
link? can NOT find wholesale pricing from ouo website and/or your website for this link?
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Old 05-20-2016, 09:39 PM
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Just had my OUO Track Rod Joint fail on me sadly. Bottom sheared right off. Track bar fell right off and I lost steering. Thank God I was going slow.

Going to get with Jared when I can. Not really sure how this happened TBH. Joint is barely 3 months old lol

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Old 05-20-2016, 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Black AOD View Post
Just had my OUO Track Rod Joint fail on me sadly. Bottom sheared right off. Track bar fell right off and I lost steering. Thank God I was going slow.

Going to get with Jared when I can. Not really sure how this happened TBH. Joint is barely 3 months old lol

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Wow, that's crazy!


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Old 05-20-2016, 10:09 PM
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Just had my OUO Track Rod Joint fail on me sadly. Bottom sheared right off. Track bar fell right off and I lost steering. Thank God I was going slow.

Going to get with Jared when I can. Not really sure how this happened TBH. Joint is barely 3 months old lol

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Just saw this and your text! Give me a call Monday morning when you're free at the office, we'll get to the bottom of what happened and get you back on the road!
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Old 05-20-2016, 10:34 PM
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WOW that's scary
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Old 05-21-2016, 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Black AOD View Post
Just had my OUO Track Rod Joint fail on me sadly. Bottom sheared right off. Track bar fell right off and I lost steering. Thank God I was going slow.

Going to get with Jared when I can. Not really sure how this happened TBH. Joint is barely 3 months old lol

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I'm guessing the bolt on the lower mounted heim joint sheared ? Or the mount itself ?
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Old 05-21-2016, 02:12 PM
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Bottom bolt sheared off

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Old 05-21-2016, 02:49 PM
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I would expect or at least hope to see an update to their kit that eliminates the single shear point from that setup. When I first saw that kit I immediately went to my pirate4x4 days and thought single shear?! Oh my! And I know people argue about a ball type joint also being single shear. But when using heim type joints it's much more common to shear like that. Even when the bolt is larger than the one in the ball type joint. A plate should be welded to the axle to support the other side of the joint to prevent that in the future. In my opinion anyways.
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Old 05-27-2016, 07:04 AM
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Any update on your situation?
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Old 05-27-2016, 12:24 PM
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Any update on your situation?
He's on vacation. Last I heard the OUO part is backordered so an OEM ford part will be put back on.
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Old 05-27-2016, 12:49 PM
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recall potential here ? or just a random issue

the "Back ordered" has me wondering
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Old 05-27-2016, 12:59 PM
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recall potential here ? or just a random issue

the "Back ordered" has me wondering
They've been backordered since February, so nothing to wonder about

I've had 5 of these joints with a combined 80,000+ miles on them.

There's a ton of them out there getting abused and the trucks beaten every day

I haven't been able to determine what caused Andrew's to fail. If they aren't installed properly they WILL fail, there is no way around it.

I've had two others fail where it was identified that the bolt was not torqued, just ran tight with an impact and the mechanic assumed that was good enough for 225FT lbs..

They used to be sold not assembled and that was an issue for people to follow instruction before as well. Kind of a bummer, I'm not really sure what the plan of action is, but I doubt we see the joints before this winter anyway.
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Old 05-27-2016, 01:05 PM
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He's on vacation. Last I heard the OUO part is backordered so an OEM ford part will be put back on.
Correct. OUO will credit my $ back

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Old 05-27-2016, 01:44 PM
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I've had 5 of these joints with a combined 80,000+ miles on them.

There's a ton of them out there getting abused and the trucks beaten every day

I haven't been able to determine what caused Andrew's to fail. If they aren't installed properly they WILL fail, there is no way around it.

I've had two others fail where it was identified that the bolt was not torqued, just ran tight with an impact and the mechanic assumed that was good enough for 225FT lbs..
I'm not being a d!ck, but 5 joints with combined 80k? So ~16k each? Doesn't seem like much to brag about. Now 1 joint and 80k it more like it. Again, not trying to be an @$$hole, though I know it may sound like it.

I will agree that in a single shear setup, there is hopefully a calculated optimal torque for longevity on that bolt. I guess as a potential customer for them, I would hope/like to see a double shear setup on that joint. And that is what has prevented me from purchase this far. (Though I am sure this is a turn off for most, as it would most likely require welding on the axle, which isn't a concern for me)

I guess all of this is moot anyways, I just noticed the disclaimer on OUO's website. Their products are "Not For Highway Use™"
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Old 05-27-2016, 02:12 PM
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I'm not being a d!ck, but 5 joints with combined 80k? So ~16k each? Doesn't seem like much to brag about. Now 1 joint and 80k it more like it. Again, not trying to be an @$$hole, though I know it may sound like it.

I will agree that in a single shear setup, there is hopefully a calculated optimal torque for longevity on that bolt. I guess as a potential customer for them, I would hope/like to see a double shear setup on that joint. And that is what has prevented me from purchase this far. (Though I am sure this is a turn off for most, as it would most likely require welding on the axle, which isn't a concern for me)

I guess all of this is moot anyways, I just noticed the disclaimer on OUO's website. Their products are "Not For Highway Use™"
I have 6 Super Duties.. And 4 of them have accumulated less than 7,500 miles between themselves in the last 2 years.. Does that bring things more to a sense?

We've looked into other options such as an ARP stud, etc, but the problem is, people already complain about the price as it is. Who would want to pay 700+ for it?
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  #56  
Old 05-27-2016, 02:56 PM
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I have 6 Super Duties.. And 4 of them have accumulated less than 7,500 miles between themselves in the last 2 years.. Does that bring things more to a sense?
Yes, but to make the statement about longevity, it should be of a single joints mileage IMO.

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We've looked into other options such as an ARP stud, etc, but the problem is, people already complain about the price as it is. Who would want to pay 700+ for it?
I realize this option no longer makes it "bolt on" but converting the bottom joint to a double shear (like the frame side bracket) should save you money, and be most reliable. (as the lower joint needs to be less expensive, and the weld on steel cant cost more then ~$50 until its cut and bent if necessary)


Of the failures you have seen, its probably safe to assume the bolt typically fails towards the bottom of, or below the link bar itself? (between the joint and the mount on the axle)

Secondly, the now separated bolt probably has a flat portion (probably less than 50% and then the rest has a "streched" look ?

Similar to this, which is showing a mostly sheared failure.




Also, none of this is to be malicious, I would love to have an improved track rod for my truck. I battle with slight "death wobble" and have done what I can by adjusting my alignment to aid in settling the issue.
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Old 05-27-2016, 02:59 PM
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Yes, but to make the statement about longevity, it should be of a single joints mileage IMO.



I realize this option no longer makes it "bolt on" but converting the bottom joint to a double shear (like the frame side bracket) should save you money, and be most reliable. (as the lower joint needs to be less expensive, and the weld on steel cant cost more then ~$50 until its cut and bent if necessary)


Of the failures you have seen, its probably safe to assume the bolt typically fails towards the bottom of, or below the link bar itself? (between the joint and the mount on the axle)

Secondly, the now separated bolt probably has a flat portion (probably less than 50% and then the rest has a "streched" look ?

Similar to this, which is showing a mostly sheared failure.




Also, none of this is to be malicious, I would love to have an improved track rod for my truck. I battle with slight "death wobble" and have done what I can by adjusting my alignment to aid in settling the issue.
While all of this is a great idea, we wont compromise the quality of our joints to bring cost down.

We would discontinue this before we started using a lower quality joint. End of story.
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  #58  
Old 05-27-2016, 03:05 PM
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While all of this is a great idea, we wont compromise the quality of our joints to bring cost down.

We would discontinue this before we started using a lower quality joint. End of story.
I think your misunderstanding. The engineered joint you have is more likely more expensive because it is designed to use a single shear setup. A joint properly sized for a double shear setup would be less expensive, and potentially less as likely to fail due to external reasons. IE improper torque.

For example, I am sure the joint you use at the frame side costs you significantly less then the joint at the axle side?

I'm not insinuating for you to utilize lower quality parts.
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Old 05-27-2016, 03:08 PM
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I think your misunderstanding. The engineered joint you have is more likely more expensive because it is designed to use a single shear setup. A joint properly sized for a double shear setup would be less expensive, and potentially less as likely to fail due to external reasons. IE improper torque.



For example, I am sure the joint you use at the frame side costs you significantly less then the joint at the axle side?



I'm not insinuating for you to utilize lower quality parts.


There's only one joint. This is the joint that goes inside the housing.

Are you referring to the joint in our track rod at the frame side? Because they are equally more expensive.
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Old 05-27-2016, 03:21 PM
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There's only one joint. This is the joint that goes inside the housing.

Are you referring to the joint in our track rod at the frame side? Because they are equally more expensive.
I am comparing the frame side joint, to the joint thats mounted to the axle.

The joint mounted at the frame end is a "double shear" type. Both sides of the joint itself are supported by steel. The only force the bolt provides is the "shear strength" where the joint and mount contact.

The joint mounted at the axle end is a "single shear" type. Where only one side of the joint is supported. You now rely on the tensile strength of the bolt not to stretch but the shear strength is mostly focused to the fixed side of the joint.

I must admit I am surprised to hear that that frame side joint is more expensive. But for me personally to purchase an aftermarket track bar, it would need a "double shear" type joint at both ends.

Are you willing to answer my questions about the appearance of the bolts that you have seen that have failed?
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Old 05-27-2016, 03:42 PM
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I am comparing the frame side joint, to the joint thats mounted to the axle.



The joint mounted at the frame end is a "double shear" type. Both sides of the joint itself are supported by steel. The only force the bolt provides is the "shear strength" where the joint and mount contact.



The joint mounted at the axle end is a "single shear" type. Where only one side of the joint is supported. You now rely on the tensile strength of the bolt not to stretch but the shear strength is mostly focused to the fixed side of the joint.



I must admit I am surprised to hear that that frame side joint is more expensive. But for me personally to purchase an aftermarket track bar, it would need a "double shear" type joint at both ends.



Are you willing to answer my questions about the appearance of the bolts that you have seen that have failed?


I haven't gotten them back.

Andrews on vacation. I don't even think it's apart. While I'm curious to see its hard to say without parts in hand
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Old 05-27-2016, 03:50 PM
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I would agree, though I can't say I am surprised. Often consumers make for terrible feedback. Its unfortunate IMO that you have not received any of the broken ones back. (However few there are) Not just for the manufacturer, but for all of us because the real life failures cannot be analyzed and improved upon.
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Old 05-27-2016, 03:55 PM
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I would agree, though I can't say I am surprised. Often consumers make for terrible feedback. Its unfortunate IMO that you have not received any of the broken ones back. (However few there are) Not just for the manufacturer, but for all of us because the real life failures cannot be analyzed and improved upon.

Agreed. People will get angry but refuse to help prevent a future situation for the next guy.


Andrews was supposedly torqued properly. I am leaning towards a defective bolt.

SAK had one of the very first ones of these, and I'm pretty sure he put close to 100k on it without a failure.

That dude could destroy an anvil with a feather
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Old 05-27-2016, 06:32 PM
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The way my bolt broke and Pete's both lead me to believe that the bolt itself wasn't strong enough. Mine was torqued per OUO instruction. I confirmed that. Pete's I have no idea if it was torqued properly and neither does he. If you ask my opinion, the bolt itself is to blame, not a shear strength/design question. The factory joints hold up great and they are the same design but they just wear faster over time and the material used in the OUO joint is way better than the factory one so it doesn't make sense that the design itself is to blame. I blame the bolt. Probably a bad batch

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Old 05-28-2016, 01:22 PM
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Is it a grade 8 bolt in the kit or what exactly is it? Just kinda curious if just a stronger bolt could solve all the issues. 1 bolt can't bump the price all that much, but I have been wrong plenty of times before. Im sure there are tons of people that will never have an issue with them as well.
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Old 05-30-2016, 10:12 AM
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Is it a grade 8 bolt in the kit or what exactly is it? Just kinda curious if just a stronger bolt could solve all the issues. 1 bolt can't bump the price all that much, but I have been wrong plenty of times before. Im sure there are tons of people that will never have an issue with them as well.
No clue there Man. Jared would have to input on this.
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Old 06-22-2016, 12:02 PM
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Why could a bracket be made to bolt in place of the stock "ball joint" that would accept a big heim joint. It would require a new track bar with joints on both ends but should've better and last longer since the load would be more spread out with a double shear bolt in design. I have a Carli trac bar at the moment but it doesn't help if the lower joint is crap and can't get one from OUO and it's retardedly priced. I agree if it works and doesn't fail it's worth more. But seems like a supply and demand situation.
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Old 06-22-2016, 10:52 PM
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Any update on this?


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Old 06-23-2016, 07:19 AM
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Any update on this?


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Have yet to see any of that ones that have "failed" back in my hands to do a failure analysis.

Dave is in the hospital from a very serious motorcycle wreck and will probably be out of commission for 4-6 weeks.

We won't have parts to build anymore until after the first of the year, I guess when we get parts back in stock we will decide if we even want to pursue selling them.

Two more customers I've talked to who haven't had a failure told me they just ran them tight with an impact. I asked them why they didn't they our torque spec was important enough to follow. Didn't get an good answer from either customer.

Pretty funny
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Old 06-23-2016, 07:42 AM
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I certainly hope for a smooth and fast recovery for Dave. Motorcycle accidents are no Bueno. Been there.

Its really quite amazing how hard it seems to follow the directions, on something so important. Steering/axle location. The track bar did very little on the leaf sprung axles. Just helped to eliminate bump steer, wasn't even a requirement. Though on a radius arm, 3 or 4 link, (unless triangulated) it's an absolute necessity.

I wish the failures would spend the $15 on shipping to send the damn joint back. Maybe nobodies actually tightened it to the spec, Hense why they won't send it in.
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Old 06-23-2016, 08:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Breaking Habits View Post
Have yet to see any of that ones that have "failed" back in my hands to do a failure analysis.

Dave is in the hospital from a very serious motorcycle wreck and will probably be out of commission for 4-6 weeks.

We won't have parts to build anymore until after the first of the year, I guess when we get parts back in stock we will decide if we even want to pursue selling them.

Two more customers I've talked to who haven't had a failure told me they just ran them tight with an impact. I asked them why they didn't they our torque spec was important enough to follow. Didn't get an good answer from either customer.

Pretty funny

Health is #1, I wish Dave a speedy and 100% recovery.


Kinda lame they aren't following the torque spec requirement... That's important.


And seriously, no one is sending them back? Shipping would be super cheap...


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Old 06-23-2016, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by mikeeg02 View Post
I certainly hope for a smooth and fast recovery for Dave. Motorcycle accidents are no Bueno. Been there.

Its really quite amazing how hard it seems to follow the directions, on something so important. Steering/axle location. The track bar did very little on the leaf sprung axles. Just helped to eliminate bump steer, wasn't even a requirement. Though on a radius arm, 3 or 4 link, (unless triangulated) it's an absolute necessity.

I wish the failures would spend the $15 on shipping to send the damn joint back. Maybe nobodies actually tightened it to the spec, Hense why they won't send it in.
If you take the trackbar off a leafsprung axle the axle will move the opposite direction that you are attempting to steer. At speed it would be going all over the road. How is it not necessary? Its completely necessary for straight driving and for the steering to function. In fact if you take a track bar off and its hard to get back on one of the methods for "making the hole" is to just steer as the axle will move side to side.

Putting a huge trackbar on my leafspring trucks was always a good upgrade as it took all the slack out of the steering cycle.

Not sayin' jus sayin.
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Old 06-23-2016, 10:28 AM
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If you take the trackbar off a leafsprung axle the axle will move the opposite direction that you are attempting to steer. At speed it would be going all over the road. How is it not necessary? Its completely necessary for straight driving and for the steering to function. In fact if you take a track bar off and its hard to get back on one of the methods for "making the hole" is to just steer as the axle will move side to side.

Putting a huge trackbar on my leafspring trucks was always a good upgrade as it took all the slack out of the steering cycle.

Not sayin' jus sayin.
OBS leaf sprung straight axle trucks dont have them. Straight axle chevy's didnt have them (though they utilize a different steering arraignment)

Im not saying having one is not an improvement, because it certainly eliminates bump steer, but without one, the leaf springs locate the axle. Linked suspensions, radius arm included without triangulation leaves locating the axle from side to side up to the trac bar.
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Old 06-23-2016, 04:10 PM
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Super dutys need a track bar. The obs may have been designed without, i dont know, but the frontends of most of those trucks were bolted to the frame on either end and im not talking about the springs.

I have driven mine around recently at the farm after taking the lift off without a bar (the lifted one is longer) and it doesnt feel optional. If you hooked a trailer onto that it'd be a death ride.

Iirc, the f350 steering on an 80-97 truck is different too. Theres another component to the draglink.

Last edited by TyCorr; 06-23-2016 at 04:18 PM.
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Old 06-23-2016, 04:21 PM
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OBS leaf sprung straight axle trucks dont have them.
That is completely incorrect.
Maybe you're thinking of a sway bar?


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Old 06-23-2016, 04:47 PM
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I have heard folks make that trac bar comment before on the older trucks
and I didn't understand why
but they were pretty adamant so I am not going to argue since I only have a leaf sprung GM to compare with it needs no trac bar and does fine without the sway bar also
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Old 06-23-2016, 04:56 PM
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Guys.. Sorry but OBS and Leaf spring suspension really have no bearing on a super duty track rod.. Lol

On top of that. Posting pretty much anything related to or showing XXX companies name on one of my threads isn't very cool.
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Old 06-23-2016, 06:13 PM
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My mistake, carry on..

I see they hid a trac bar on the OBS behind the axle. Went and looked at one.
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Old 08-26-2016, 02:22 PM
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how do i tell if i have this wobble? i noticed after i did a recent tire rotation that i have a bad wobble on the freeway cruising and if i goose it from a corner or going around a curve to the right and hammer it and the front end unloads a little, it shakes the entire truck. almost like the front tires are going to fall off...

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Old 08-26-2016, 03:07 PM
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Mine has the "death wobble", I've replaced the joint with another OEM, no difference. Front end is tight, its done it since ~30K miles. I had them put some positive caster in mine and it helped. I think OEM acceptable is +3* to 0 range. Mine IIRC is set around +3*-+3.5*. It was completely unacceptable until I finally convinced them to do that for me. Rainy roads literally took the wheel from my hands above 50 mph.

I have tried 3 sets of tires, because they originally blamed my tires. And now Im at ~110K so I have put two new sets on since. The only thing I have left to try is another set of wheels. My one has a little bit of a flat spot in it, but the truck does it whether that wheel is on the front or rear.

They also blamed my "loading" of the truck, as it has a HD front bumper with 12K winch (and I have the OEM front upgraded spring package). Utility bed on the back and the truck weighs in at 9,500. Which is a bit for a super cab short bed gasser haha.

If yours didnt do it before, Id suggest putting your tires back and see if it continues. Then check front suspension parts. All of them if you havent already. (steering linkage, ball joints, etc)

If that doesnt show any issues, I would recommend getting an alignment shop to add some caster on the front axle.

Thats all based of my experience with my truck. Your results may vary.
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Old 08-26-2016, 03:11 PM
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Mine has the "death wobble", I've replaced the joint with another OEM, no difference. Front end is tight, its done it since ~30K miles. I had them put some positive caster in mine and it helped. I think OEM acceptable is +3* to 0 range. Mine IIRC is set around +3*-+3.5*. It was completely unacceptable until I finally convinced them to do that for me. Rainy roads literally took the wheel from my hands above 50 mph.

I have tried 3 sets of tires, because they originally blamed my tires. And now Im at ~110K so I have put two new sets on since. The only thing I have left to try is another set of wheels. My one has a little bit of a flat spot in it, but the truck does it whether that wheel is on the front or rear.

They also blamed my "loading" of the truck, as it has a HD front bumper with 12K winch (and I have the OEM front upgraded spring package). Utility bed on the back and the truck weighs in at 9,500. Which is a bit for a super cab short bed gasser haha.

If yours didnt do it before, Id suggest putting your tires back and see if it continues. Then check front suspension parts. All of them if you havent already. (steering linkage, ball joints, etc)

If that doesnt show any issues, I would recommend getting an alignment shop to add some caster on the front axle.

Thats all based of my experience with my truck. Your results may vary.
thanks man! im gonna check it out after work

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Old 08-27-2016, 07:32 AM
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pretty sure i need every joint in my steering linkage.. including the trac rod joint.. i think my 4 axle ball joints are ok. but there is sloppy movement in the rest of them.

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Old 08-27-2016, 08:20 AM
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Post your results after you tighten her up!
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Old 08-27-2016, 12:26 PM
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pretty sure i need every joint in my steering linkage.. including the trac rod joint.. i think my 4 axle ball joints are ok. but there is sloppy movement in the rest of them.

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass
Sure it isn't your steering box? I changed all that stuff for yearsand im wondering if i wasnt wasting my $$$... tightened my steering box up and havent observed any "wear" since then. In fact, after i took my 6" lift off in March i just shortened the inner tierod, replaced the trackbar, and pitman arm. Everything else was tight. After running 37s and 35s for two years each on it.
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Old 08-27-2016, 12:29 PM
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Sure it isn't your steering box? I changed all that stuff for yearsand im wondering if i wasnt wasting my $$$... tightened my steering box up and havent observed any "wear" since then. In fact, after i took my 6" lift off in March i just shortened the inner tierod, replaced the trackbar, and pitman arm. Everything else was tight. After running 37s and 35s for two years each on it.
i watched it all move when my buddy wiggled the steering wheel.. and you can move the tie rod conecting tube up and down and it makes a nice metal on metal pinging noise as if you where slapping metal pieces together.. not smooth and firm at all..

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Old 08-27-2016, 12:31 PM
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No kidding?! Have you never changed any of it?
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Old 08-27-2016, 12:32 PM
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No kidding?! Have you never changed any of it?
no. all factory with 82k on it

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Old 08-27-2016, 12:35 PM
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Dont you think it should last a bit longer? If it didnt it doesnt matter but it seems like that stuff usualky died around 150k miles.
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Old 08-27-2016, 12:36 PM
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Dont you think it should last a bit longer? If it didnt it doesnt matter but it seems like that stuff usualky died around 150k miles.
on the leaf spring trucks yes.. these fukin coil spring fronts can suck my ballz

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Old 08-27-2016, 12:44 PM
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You gotta quit jumpin in with your truck when the Joey Chitwood stunt drivers come to your local fair!
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Old 08-27-2016, 01:14 PM
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Ah yes sorry, that was all for my 2012 truck. The leaf spring trucks front suspensions seems to just work. I finally had to replace the steering on my '01 @ ~250k. On my old '02, it replaced it once around 200k. The '01 see more street miles then the '02 did. On both my '01 and '02, I did have to adjust the box. Then it was like a new truck.
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Old 08-27-2016, 01:16 PM
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on the leaf spring trucks yes.. these fukin coil spring fronts can suck my ballz

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Your truck is driving on bad dirt roads though, no?


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Old 08-27-2016, 01:29 PM
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Your truck is driving on bad dirt roads though, no?


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only when im home and that is only a couple days every other month now..

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Old 08-27-2016, 01:39 PM
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only when im home and that is only a couple days every other month now..

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Hard on the sex life never being home lol
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Old 08-27-2016, 01:41 PM
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Hard on the sex life never being home lol


He prolly just relies on good ole righty and the hot chick thread on the road. . Not talking from experience, haha.
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Old 08-27-2016, 01:42 PM
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Fleshlight
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Old 08-27-2016, 01:48 PM
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dip****s.. quit muking up this thread

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Old 08-29-2016, 12:46 PM
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Guys.. Sorry but OBS and Leaf spring suspension really have no bearing on a super duty track rod.. Lol

On top of that. Posting pretty much anything related to or showing XXX companies name on one of my threads isn't very cool.
i started a new thread in the 6.7 tech section for all this other talk of the feont end componants.. if you want, i can ask a mod to move the rest of the crap talk to that thread being that this is a vendor specific thread.

i do have a question though. it was mentioned before, how hard and how much would it be to convert the ball joint to what was said about the double sheer joint? i seen this on my buddies 15 doodge and was like dam, why cant ford do that.. or a double ended hiem joint thats greaseable even..



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