Lt.Dan
Member
Hey guys, i made this write up about a year ago, first i eliminated the fuel bowl, then did this e-fuel system. I posted them over on PSN a while back, but figured i would post them both here on PSA just incase people need some info. Enjoy guys,
So my truck had a fuel leak (for about 9 months), and after so long of me throwing parts at it, and trying to figure it out, i finally found out it was the fuel pump leaking out the weep hole on the passenger side.
So i set out to do my Efuel conversion, not wanting to spend the $1200, i decided to do it myself, and gain some knowledge along the way, it was the perfect timing. I was aiming for the easiest swap that i could do in only one day, so i spent a few extra bucks and bought certain things to make life easy and speed up the process. I also have a 96 "California" Truck, which means in order to get the fuel pump out, i HAVE to pull the Turbo.
I did mine in 2 steps, first with just the fuel bowl ******, after that was done, i could actually see the fuel pump leaking, which is almost impossible with the fuel bowl in there.
My whole build took me more than 4 days to complete because i ran into a whole MESS of problems. I ordered several parts from several different websites, trying to piece together my efuel kit. Well quite a few of them FORGOT pieces of my order, or only half of some things, which prolonged my project 3 days extra while waiting for parts in the mail.
My Parts list:
10 ft of 5/16" Fuel Injection Hose, SAE rating R30J9 ~$40 (Diesel Approved, you can get it at any Napa/Oreilly's/AutoZone)
2 ft of 3/8" Fuel Injection Hose, SAE rating R30J9 ~$8 (Diesel Approved, you can get it at any Napa/Oreilly's/AutoZone)
1/2-in x 1/4-in Brass Pipe FittingPurchased from my Local Lowes for $4.59 each, 4 required.
5/16-in x 1/4-in Hose Barb Purchased from my Local Lowes for $1.79 each, 3 required.
3/8-in x 1/4-in Hose Barb Purchased from my Local Lowes for $2.79 each, 1 required.
5/16" Hose Barbed Union $2.83, 1 Required (can be found at most part stores, or Lowes.)
Yellow PTFE Tape Purchased at my local ACE Hardware for $4.
Wix 24770 Filter Mounting Base $29.20 each. 2 Required. (Can be found at Napa for slightly more, with part # 4770.)
Bosch 69136 Super Duty Fuel Pump $76.13, 1 required. (Can be found at any parts store, 00-03 Super Duty Fuel Pump, for substantially more)
Wix 33528 Spin-On Fuel Filter $14.51, 1 Required (Can be found at any parts store for slightly more.)
Wix 33405 Spin-On Fuel Separator Filter $16.40, 1 required (Can be found at any parts store for slightly more.)
Bar None Diesel Wiring Harness (Optional, you can make your own). $130.
Adapter fitting for Super Duty fuel pump to -6AN $19.95, 1 Required.
-6AN to 3/8" Hose Barb $4.97, 1 Required
And for regulated return system, and to feed fuel into the heads etc, I went with markfuga's Full Engine Kit. $185 Shipped. Includes Fuel Pump hole plug, all hoses/ fittings and even replacement head lines.
Then Stuff required for install not pertaining to Efuel:
Garrett TP-38 Exhaust Turbine Inlet Gasket $9.87, 1 Recommended, replace when removal of turbo.
Turbo Pedestal O-Rings 1 Required, replace when removal of turbo.
Cost of Parts:
$573.38 (not including shipping, but most everything came with free shipping). And now this could be cheaper if you made your own harness, and came up with your own regulated return system with fuel feed, you could probably easily get it down to $400 and still have a very reliable system, i just wanted everything to be easier and no troubles during install.
I started the job underneath the truck, by creating my mounts for the fuel filter bases, and now Im a welder/fabricator, so i made a plate out of some 1/4" strap with the holes drilled, there is a section of the body that raises higher than the rest that i thought was perfect for the filters, as they could be up high and away from any debris, then welded it up over the frame rail, to get as much height as i could.
Then came to mount the pump, so i made a mount for it instead of trying to use some kind of clamp they use to hold up wiring, i cut a tube in half to cradle the fuel pump, then welded a tab to it, and machined a boss, then hose clamped the pump to the half-tube, and bolted the assembly in the frame, inside the transmission crossmember to keep it away from anything, it sounds confusing but the pictures will show.
Then came the plumbing, i removed the clamp on the hard fuel line, just in front of the selector valve, (its the bottom one, the top one is the return line, and the small one is a brake line) and stuck the 5/16" Barbed Union and routed the 5/16" hose to the first fuel filter. The inlet to the pre-filter base uses the 1/2" to 1/4" Adapter, and 5/16"x1/4" hose barb. Then the same fittings out of the filter base, and hose routed into the suction side of the fuel pump, then with the -6AN fitting adapter bolted onto the fuel pump, screw on your -6AN hose barb and run a section of 3/8" hose into another 1/2" to 1/4" Adapter, and 3/8"x1/4" hose barb into the post-filter base, then out the filter base using the 1/2" to 1/4" Adapter, and 5/16"x1/4" hose barb, and run it back into the same hard line you pulled the rubber hose off that feeds to the motor, i also bent this hard line up a bit to prevent the rubber hose from kinking too hard.
Now i know thats a lot to take in, so just piece it all together on the table, to where it makes sense to you, and then bolt it up in the truck. Pics help too.
(Notice how the bottom of the filter is higher than the bottom of the frame, i will make a skid plate underneath it later)
Now that all of the plumbing under neath the truck is done, we can move to the top of the motor. I used this video to give me a very good insight on how to remove the turbo in our trucks, (HERE) with a few flex sockets, extensions and a little patience, i had my turbo out in less than an hour (using lots of snap on tools/impacts/wd-40, etc)
Pics with the turbo out, fuel pump still in, and fuel pulse dampener for california trucks. (And the broken stud in the exhaust collector....)
Then this video that markfuga created for his fuel block installation, but includes the fuel pump removal, and the entire tutorial on how to install the fuel block/regulated return etc. His kit is very well thought out, went together very easily, and is top notch quality, im very happy that I went with it.
Then i installed the fuel block with all the lines, fittings etc, installed the fuel pump plug (provided by markfuga) reinstalled the turbo with the new orings and gaskets, intake spyder etc.
Quick shot looking under the intake spyder at the head lines, and close up of the fuel block.
Then install the wiring harness with Bar Nones provided instructions, pretty confusing when reading the instructions, but laid out on a table, it is pretty simple how it works. I installed the relay on the firewall, which I was quite impressed on size/quality of the relay/entire harness, very well put together, i have a CCLB, and there was still PLENTY of extra wire there, so it will fit on any size truck guaranteed.
Then its just a matter of turning the key on to prime the system, you'll hear the pump kick on, kinda noisy at first, but then itll quiet down and youll know the system is completely full, fire up the truck and check for leaks!
Enjoy your awesome electronic fuel system :evil
If you have any questions/comments/concerns feel free to let me know.
Thanks guys, this forum helped me a lot when piecing this together, just trying to simplify it for some guys that dont have the time to do all the hard research.
So my truck had a fuel leak (for about 9 months), and after so long of me throwing parts at it, and trying to figure it out, i finally found out it was the fuel pump leaking out the weep hole on the passenger side.
So i set out to do my Efuel conversion, not wanting to spend the $1200, i decided to do it myself, and gain some knowledge along the way, it was the perfect timing. I was aiming for the easiest swap that i could do in only one day, so i spent a few extra bucks and bought certain things to make life easy and speed up the process. I also have a 96 "California" Truck, which means in order to get the fuel pump out, i HAVE to pull the Turbo.
I did mine in 2 steps, first with just the fuel bowl ******, after that was done, i could actually see the fuel pump leaking, which is almost impossible with the fuel bowl in there.
My whole build took me more than 4 days to complete because i ran into a whole MESS of problems. I ordered several parts from several different websites, trying to piece together my efuel kit. Well quite a few of them FORGOT pieces of my order, or only half of some things, which prolonged my project 3 days extra while waiting for parts in the mail.
My Parts list:
10 ft of 5/16" Fuel Injection Hose, SAE rating R30J9 ~$40 (Diesel Approved, you can get it at any Napa/Oreilly's/AutoZone)
2 ft of 3/8" Fuel Injection Hose, SAE rating R30J9 ~$8 (Diesel Approved, you can get it at any Napa/Oreilly's/AutoZone)
1/2-in x 1/4-in Brass Pipe FittingPurchased from my Local Lowes for $4.59 each, 4 required.
5/16-in x 1/4-in Hose Barb Purchased from my Local Lowes for $1.79 each, 3 required.
3/8-in x 1/4-in Hose Barb Purchased from my Local Lowes for $2.79 each, 1 required.
5/16" Hose Barbed Union $2.83, 1 Required (can be found at most part stores, or Lowes.)
Yellow PTFE Tape Purchased at my local ACE Hardware for $4.
Wix 24770 Filter Mounting Base $29.20 each. 2 Required. (Can be found at Napa for slightly more, with part # 4770.)
Bosch 69136 Super Duty Fuel Pump $76.13, 1 required. (Can be found at any parts store, 00-03 Super Duty Fuel Pump, for substantially more)
Wix 33528 Spin-On Fuel Filter $14.51, 1 Required (Can be found at any parts store for slightly more.)
Wix 33405 Spin-On Fuel Separator Filter $16.40, 1 required (Can be found at any parts store for slightly more.)
Bar None Diesel Wiring Harness (Optional, you can make your own). $130.
Adapter fitting for Super Duty fuel pump to -6AN $19.95, 1 Required.
-6AN to 3/8" Hose Barb $4.97, 1 Required
And for regulated return system, and to feed fuel into the heads etc, I went with markfuga's Full Engine Kit. $185 Shipped. Includes Fuel Pump hole plug, all hoses/ fittings and even replacement head lines.
Then Stuff required for install not pertaining to Efuel:
Garrett TP-38 Exhaust Turbine Inlet Gasket $9.87, 1 Recommended, replace when removal of turbo.
Turbo Pedestal O-Rings 1 Required, replace when removal of turbo.
Cost of Parts:
$573.38 (not including shipping, but most everything came with free shipping). And now this could be cheaper if you made your own harness, and came up with your own regulated return system with fuel feed, you could probably easily get it down to $400 and still have a very reliable system, i just wanted everything to be easier and no troubles during install.
I started the job underneath the truck, by creating my mounts for the fuel filter bases, and now Im a welder/fabricator, so i made a plate out of some 1/4" strap with the holes drilled, there is a section of the body that raises higher than the rest that i thought was perfect for the filters, as they could be up high and away from any debris, then welded it up over the frame rail, to get as much height as i could.
Then came to mount the pump, so i made a mount for it instead of trying to use some kind of clamp they use to hold up wiring, i cut a tube in half to cradle the fuel pump, then welded a tab to it, and machined a boss, then hose clamped the pump to the half-tube, and bolted the assembly in the frame, inside the transmission crossmember to keep it away from anything, it sounds confusing but the pictures will show.
Then came the plumbing, i removed the clamp on the hard fuel line, just in front of the selector valve, (its the bottom one, the top one is the return line, and the small one is a brake line) and stuck the 5/16" Barbed Union and routed the 5/16" hose to the first fuel filter. The inlet to the pre-filter base uses the 1/2" to 1/4" Adapter, and 5/16"x1/4" hose barb. Then the same fittings out of the filter base, and hose routed into the suction side of the fuel pump, then with the -6AN fitting adapter bolted onto the fuel pump, screw on your -6AN hose barb and run a section of 3/8" hose into another 1/2" to 1/4" Adapter, and 3/8"x1/4" hose barb into the post-filter base, then out the filter base using the 1/2" to 1/4" Adapter, and 5/16"x1/4" hose barb, and run it back into the same hard line you pulled the rubber hose off that feeds to the motor, i also bent this hard line up a bit to prevent the rubber hose from kinking too hard.
Now i know thats a lot to take in, so just piece it all together on the table, to where it makes sense to you, and then bolt it up in the truck. Pics help too.
(Notice how the bottom of the filter is higher than the bottom of the frame, i will make a skid plate underneath it later)
Now that all of the plumbing under neath the truck is done, we can move to the top of the motor. I used this video to give me a very good insight on how to remove the turbo in our trucks, (HERE) with a few flex sockets, extensions and a little patience, i had my turbo out in less than an hour (using lots of snap on tools/impacts/wd-40, etc)
Pics with the turbo out, fuel pump still in, and fuel pulse dampener for california trucks. (And the broken stud in the exhaust collector....)
Then this video that markfuga created for his fuel block installation, but includes the fuel pump removal, and the entire tutorial on how to install the fuel block/regulated return etc. His kit is very well thought out, went together very easily, and is top notch quality, im very happy that I went with it.
Then i installed the fuel block with all the lines, fittings etc, installed the fuel pump plug (provided by markfuga) reinstalled the turbo with the new orings and gaskets, intake spyder etc.
Quick shot looking under the intake spyder at the head lines, and close up of the fuel block.
Then install the wiring harness with Bar Nones provided instructions, pretty confusing when reading the instructions, but laid out on a table, it is pretty simple how it works. I installed the relay on the firewall, which I was quite impressed on size/quality of the relay/entire harness, very well put together, i have a CCLB, and there was still PLENTY of extra wire there, so it will fit on any size truck guaranteed.
Then its just a matter of turning the key on to prime the system, you'll hear the pump kick on, kinda noisy at first, but then itll quiet down and youll know the system is completely full, fire up the truck and check for leaks!
Enjoy your awesome electronic fuel system :evil
If you have any questions/comments/concerns feel free to let me know.
Thanks guys, this forum helped me a lot when piecing this together, just trying to simplify it for some guys that dont have the time to do all the hard research.
