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Old 07-29-2016, 08:03 AM
markfuga markfuga is offline
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Default 1978 F250 build

I started this project a year ago and knew the progress would be slow so I waited to start a thread on it. Hopefully things move a little quicker now but I’m OCD when it comes to the details so it still could take a while. The project is a combination of a 1978 F250 body on a 1996 F250 frame which rides on a 2005 F350 suspension. This build is going to be a daily driver so I shouldn’t be going as far as I am with the cleanup of everything but I have a hard time with taking short cuts. I’m close to “substantial completion” at this point so I figured now is a good time to start a thread.

The engine received mild upgrades: Full Force stage 1 injectors, Adrenaline HPOP and a Beans D66 turbo. I also did the most important preventive maintenance items such as: re-seal the oil cooler, replace the oil rail plugs, new motor mounts, silicone intake boots, IPR pigtail, dual pulley tensioner, Melling M208 LPOP, new harmonic balancer, new water pump and probably a few other things I’m forgetting.

The transmission is a recent Jasper rebuilt E4OD so I’m going to run it “as is” to see how it performs.

The suspension both front and rear got every replaceable part replaced: 6 radius arm bushings, 4 ball joints, track arm ball joint and bushing, all tie rod ends, steering stabilizer shock, new front hub bearing assemblies, new Red Head steering box, all new seals, new rear bearings, new Detroit locker, new Hellwig sway bars, new rotors and calipers, new springs and shocks all around and many more trivial parts not worth mentioning.

The Exhaust was kept simple: 3 inch down pipe into a Walker 21470 muffler and out the stock tail pipe

Here’s the picture collection from the past year. I have many more pictures that show the “gory” details of things but just staying with the highlights for starters.
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  #2  
Old 07-29-2016, 08:07 AM
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5 more pictues
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  #3  
Old 07-29-2016, 08:11 AM
markfuga markfuga is offline
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Another 5
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  #4  
Old 07-29-2016, 08:20 AM
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Interested to see how the sway bar works out with that mount. I wanted do mine that way but looks like there's going to be issues with the lower radiator hose.

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Old 07-29-2016, 07:33 PM
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I may have a swap like this in my future as well. Is there tons of room in the engine bay on that thing or is it an optical illusion? I wish my 78 250 had that good of a body!!
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Old 07-30-2016, 12:47 PM
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The sway bar mounts are the originals from the 05 donor; I cut them off and welded them to the 96 frame. They absolutely will not work with the 96 radiator support in that position. The 96 support sits in that area and will not fit with the sway bar mounts I welded there. I'll be modifying the 78 radiator support with parts from the 96 support so I can easily compensate where needed.

Going into the weeds a little: I made a transfer jig on the 05 frame before removing anything. Then I used that jig on the 96 frame to locate the spring perches, sway bar mounts, traction bar mount and the steering stabilizer mount. This is how I located the sway bar mounts where I have them.

The engine is a tight fit against the firewall. I'l be doing sheet metal work for the down pipe, turbo and back of the drivers side cylinder head. Plenty of room on the left/right with the original inner fenders and lots of room up front for the radiator.
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  #7  
Old 07-31-2016, 10:38 AM
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Lookin good. Sub'd.
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  #8  
Old 07-31-2016, 12:23 PM
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What did you use to clean and paint the frame. Working on mounting the 05 suspension on my Ex now and that will be the next step.

It looks really good how you did it.
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Old 07-31-2016, 01:07 PM
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This should be another great build. Like the 58 chevy.

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Depleted, studded, airdog (which isn't currently hooked up), fass regulated return, airaide, 4 inch straight pipe with mbrp muffler(so on to go), glowchit pyro, fuel, boost, and trans temp. (Of course don't work lol) Hercules terra track A/T2 315/70/17.
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http://badges.fuelly.com/images/sig-us/778639.png
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  #10  
Old 08-04-2016, 09:03 AM
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The frame was cleaned with acetone to remove oil and what was left of the original under-coating. I used a variety of wire brushes on the angle grinder and sanding wheels get it ready for paint. I went the simple route of Rustoleum primer and semi-gloss black paint.

The 78 body is in immaculate shape which is the primary reason I decided to do this project. I came across the body as a "roller" without engine or transmission which made it ideal for this swap. I bought it from the grandson of the original owner, after the grandson had drag raced it for a couple seasons and got board with it. Aside from the visible surface rust in a couple places, there is no rust anywhere under the truck or hidden behind fenders, bedsides, cab corners, etc.

Here's a couple more pictures of where it's at today. I upgraded the rear tank to the 38 gallon so I could eliminate the front tank to make space for the electric pump and filters. I started the engine a couple days ago to check for any leaks or issues and found a small oil leak at the dipstick. Frustrating because I put a new oil pan on the engine and replaced the O-ring. I have a feeling the O-ring was not correct because it didn't seem like it had enough "compression" when I installed it. Now I know it didn't compress enough
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  #11  
Old 08-04-2016, 05:42 PM
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This is going to make me want to work on my 78. Can't wait to see more progress.
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Old 08-15-2016, 04:59 AM
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Here's a couple pictures of the track bar bracket I built as part of the 05+ suspension swap. It's modeled after the Ford OEM bracket, bolts to the frame and ties back to the engine cross member and bolts to it as well. It's all 3/8" and 5/16" plate. I made a jig for it too so I can reproduce it if needed.
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Old 08-15-2016, 05:23 AM
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Here's some details on swapping the 78 cab onto the 96 fame:

1. Remove the rivets from the rear cab cross member and slide the cross member forward on its top holes. Use the top 2 forward holes in the frame and top rear holes of the cross member to bolt it firmly in place. Drill the other 6 holes needed to re-secure the cross member. This places the cab in the perfect foward/aft position for the bed to line up on several holes in the frame and has the fender opening correctly over the tires.

2. Drill new holes in the bottom of the cab just a little outward of the original holes to line up with the 96 cross member; the 96 mounts points are a little wider than the 78.

3. Remove front cab mount brackets from both frames. Cut the centers out of the 96 brackets and weld to the 78 brackets. The 78 body cab mounts are narrower and the holes on the brackets need to "come in" to line up properly. Aside from this one mod, the 78 brackets bolt up nicely to the 96 frame and have the proper "level" for the body mounts to rest on. This was the easiest way I could think of for getting the large, perfectly round hole needed for the body mount.

I'm working on the radiator supports now along with the radiator mounting brackets. I'll post those mods soon.
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  #14  
Old 08-20-2016, 04:47 PM
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All the mods to the radiator support are done. I had to make new radiator support to frame mount brackets because the 78 frame is narrower at the front. The 78 mount brackets were "in board" of the inner fenders and the new brackets are now "out board" to line up with the 96 frame brackets. The old "in board" brackets had to be cut back to allow space for the 96 radiator lower support. I cut them plumb to the support and boxed them so I could drill a hole for a bolt to hold the 96 lower radiator support. They are boxed to the width of the 96 lower radiator support.

The lower radiator support is the bottom section from the 96 and was cut where it starts to widen out. The lower sections fits well between the 78 inner fenders but I did need to trim 1/2 inch off each inner fender to give the width needed for the lower radiator support. Six bolts hold the 96 lower radiator support bracket to the 78 radiator support. One last mod was narrowing both rear facing sides of the 96 lower section to allow clearance at the sway bar brackets.

The upper radiator brackets are from the 96 support. I cut them off and welded them to the 78 support.

The AC condenser fits perfectly in front of the radiator. I had to "massage" all 4 mounting brackets to get it snug into the 78 radiator support. The brackets were all flattened out so it would tuck into the big opening in the support. The bottom two bracket had to be removed and lowered on the condenser for best fit.
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Old 08-20-2016, 04:49 PM
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couple more pics...
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Old 08-28-2016, 04:30 AM
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The firewall turned out to be more work than I was hoping for. I first tried some gentle massaging with the 4 pound hammer but it quickly became obvious that cutting out the firewall was necessary. I had to cut into the heater/AC box area as well to allow space for the down pipe. So 13 pieces of sheet metal later and a whole lot of welding, plus some trimming on the heater/AC box here's what I have.
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  #17  
Old 08-28-2016, 04:36 AM
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Here's a couple more pics. Notice I used this "re-sheet metal-ing" as an opportunity to fit the accelerator pedal. Although the pedal isn't in the pictures, you can see the three bolt holes for it. I also carefully spaced the sheet metal work around the engine so I can re-use the heat shield and still have a reasonable air gap between the shield and the engine. The shield is easily re-molded with a rubber mallet.
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  #18  
Old 08-28-2016, 06:41 AM
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That's unfortunate it required all that sheet metal work. Would a 1-2" body lift have helped?.....but I hate body lifts though.
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Old 08-28-2016, 07:50 AM
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No, it's not a matter of up/down but rather forward/aft. Some "up" would help but I'm really pleased with where the body sits over the tires now so definitely didn't want to lift the body.

I "think" the engines are set back further in the mid 90's frames versus the late 70's frame. The reason I say this: there's too much extra space between the fan and the radiator. The fan shroud doesn't quite cover the fan so I'm going to need to make an extension on the front of the shroud to cover the fan (probably 1 inch). I've long since scrapped the 78 frame so I can't measure it, but I do think the engines are a bit more forward in the 70's trucks.

Another possible option for avoiding the firewall work would be to move the engine forward in the mid 90's frame. Not sure if this is possible though without looking further (oil pan clearance?). One draw back to doing this might be knocking the center of gravity out of whack that I'm sure the Ford engineers so carefully balanced these trucks around which allows them to handle like a fine Italian sports car
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Old 08-28-2016, 02:58 PM
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Yea, I thought about mentioning bringing the motor forward, but throwing sheet metal together is probably easier then rearranging everything but the axles. Lol.
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Old 09-03-2016, 11:41 AM
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So after completing the sheet metal work for the firewall, the front bumper was a gift

Fitting the 78 bumper to the 96 frame was as simple as cutting the first six inches of the 78 frame and turning those pieces into brackets to hold the bumper. The brackets bolt to the inside of the 96 frame and are the PERFECT width to align with the holes in the bumper. Couldn't be easier!

The 78 frame starts to widen soon after the tips of the frame so I had to cut at an angle along the frame to avoid the widening and add some 1/4" plate to extend the brackets. I also cut about 2 inches off the 96 frame to allow everything to align properly.
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Old 09-03-2016, 11:42 AM
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Here's the bumper
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File Type: jpg pic48.jpg (726.7 KB, 106 views)
File Type: jpg pic49.JPG (1.75 MB, 112 views)
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Old 09-04-2016, 04:43 PM
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Finalized the installation of the bed today so figured I'd share the secrets.

The two rear bolts (near the tailgate) and the two bolts close to the shocks line up in the holes already in the 96 frame. The holes close to the front of the fuel tank do not line up but are easily re-drilled into the frame. Unfortunately the bolts move back and outward which puts them further into the "pocket" of the cross member for the fuel tank. The original location was already hard to access, so now it's a little tougher (see red arrow).

The forward two bolts are actually set inward in the bed (the 78 frame narrows) and don't line up over the frame rail at all. I had to weld some half-round tabs onto the frame to allow me to drill new holes. You can see the holes are right on the edge of the frame. I made the the tabs bigger than needed because I didn't know exactly where the holes would end up.
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  #24  
Old 09-05-2016, 06:31 PM
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That muffler saddens me, lol. Everything else looks great.
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Old 09-06-2016, 03:42 AM
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It's actually a good sounding muffler on these engines (Walker 21470). I put it on my 58 during that engine swap and I get compliments on the exhaust sound all the time. Here's a sample of what it sounds like.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G3TKFQ5FJjc
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Old 09-06-2016, 08:23 AM
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I'm impressed with the positive channeling of your OCD. Lookin' great!
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Old 09-06-2016, 08:38 AM
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Yeah. That blue 58 is gorgeous and well done.
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Old 09-07-2016, 02:45 PM
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Thanks guys, I appreciate the feedback. Now that the weathers cooling off it's time to take the 58 out for some cruising.

Here's today's progress. There isn't enough space along the two inner fenders for everything that needs to go on them so I had to improvise. The drivers side inner fender is consumed with a battery, the under hood fuse box and the IDM. The passenger side inner fender has a battery and the heat/AC box for starters. It also needs the coolant degas bottle and the wiper fluid bottle BUT there's not enough room. It occurred to me to try a "SD coolant bottle retrofit" as a possible solution. I made two brackets and cut out the corner of the fan shroud and problem solved. The only issue with this mod is the small top radiator hose. It's directly behind the bottle, so I had to space the bottle out some to allow for a "comfortable" bend radius with this hose.
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  #29  
Old 09-08-2016, 04:07 PM
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Couple more details resolved.

I cut a small section out of the 96 cab to graft into the 78 cab so I can add the boot assembly for the transfer case shifter. The boot with it's plastic enclosure has a very specific shape, so using the piece of sheet metal from the 96 was the easiest option. I covered all the welds, including the firewall work in a heavy urethane seam sealer.

I used a piece of 16 gauge to make a spot on the firewall for the computer and the two fire wall plugs on the 96 harness. As I mentioned earlier this 78 came with very little of it's wiring harness left so I'm using the 96 harness for everything.

I chopped up the bracket for the wiper fluid bottle and bolted it to the inner fender. I also added a plate to the side of it to hold the starter relay. I was mostly done with the bracket mod when I realized I had no space for the starter relay. The added plate was an after thought.
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  #30  
Old 09-08-2016, 04:09 PM
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Here's everything set in place. I believe all the work under the hood is now complete.
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  #31  
Old 09-16-2016, 04:31 PM
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Had an OCD day today

I modified the 78 and 05 brake pedal brackets by combining them into one. The 78 bracket is dual purpose: it holds the brake pedal and the steering column. I'm using the 2005 booster and master cylinder so in an effort to keep the correct geometry between the brake pedal and the booster it seems logical to use the original 05 pedal parts. I "eyeballed" where I thought the pedal should hang and then where to cut and splice the two brackets together. Foolishly I finished welded the brackets before testing the fit in the truck. I then assembled it into the truck and was not happy with the pedal height; it's just a little too low for my liking. So.... cut it apart, run to the junkyard for a new 78 bracket and then get back to it. I can now make it perfect since I've done it once and know exactly what to do now

One extra thing I had to do was re-bend the 05 pedal arm to match the 78 pedal arm. It has to "wrap around" the column. This required cutting the foot off and rotating it to proper alignment. (78 on the left)
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  #32  
Old 09-16-2016, 04:34 PM
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Doesn't this look nice? Too bad I don't like the pedal height.
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  #33  
Old 09-16-2016, 04:42 PM
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Cut it apart and start all over. BUT... this time we have the luxury of using the old chopped up bracket to get EXACT measurements of where to cut the new bracket. I'm aligning the top 05 bracket holes with the center holes of the 78 bracket (vertical line going up the bracket). Last time I kept the top two holes on the 78 bracket. This change represents a 1.25" higher pedal. More to come, this is as far as I got today.
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  #34  
Old 09-19-2016, 09:03 AM
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Black paint means "I'm Done!" Much happier with round 2.
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  #35  
Old 09-29-2016, 04:02 AM
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Couple baby steps forward. Painted the engine bay, set cab roof lights and drilled holes, started refurbishing heater/AC box.
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File Type: jpg pic90.jpg (996.8 KB, 76 views)
  #36  
Old 09-29-2016, 06:31 AM
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Curious why you went with those kind of cab lights, and not the OEM Ford Style?
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Old 09-29-2016, 06:34 AM
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They look like the old oem style lights. Keeping it time period specific I would guess.
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Old 09-29-2016, 07:25 AM
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Awesome Build Man!! Should be one of the coolest Daily Drivers, I just hope you live somewhere warm cause it would break my heart to drive that in the snow after all that hard work.

Travis
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Old 09-29-2016, 08:33 AM
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I agonized for quite a while over the cab light selection. I wanted to bring some chrome on top of the roof, but didn't want the traditional style (second pic). I had an old set of lights from a mid 90's and set them up there (first pic) to get a sense of spacing and they looked good too. I scanned Ebay for a long time and had several styles picked out and ultimately settled on that set.

Although the truck will be a daily driver, it will stay home on days when the roads are heavily salted. I'm in northern Virginia and we only see a couple weeks a year of salty roads.
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File Type: jpg pic91.jpg (682.2 KB, 78 views)
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Old 10-23-2016, 05:28 PM
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A couple more baby steps. Finishing up the paint on the cab so it can get mounted and I can start re-assembly. Can't get much further until the cab is back on for keeps. Going with a metalic brown/copper and the typical beige center.
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  #41  
Old 10-23-2016, 08:57 PM
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That's an interesting color combo. I think it's gonna be titties. I love this thread.
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Old 10-24-2016, 04:43 AM
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I too love those colors. Is that a factory color combo?? I like how your keeping the two tone vintage look.
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Old 11-14-2016, 04:50 PM
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Any update?? Awesome project

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Old 11-15-2016, 08:58 AM
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Just kinda stopped huh I had a bit of a personnel problem in the body/paint dept and had to make some changes. My "new guy" is making corrections to the cab so I should have better (close up) pictures soon. This was an unfortunate set back, but I need the right people on the team. I'm hoping to have the cab back on the frame during Thanksgiving weekend which will let me start putting everything back together and get it running. I'm also using this "down time" to swap out the turbo. I put a D66 on it but decided to order the KC-TP38R and give it a try with the stage 1 injectors. The Turbo should be here soon and it will be way easier to change it before setting the cab.
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Old 12-28-2016, 03:53 PM
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Still going at it. There was a lot more correcting needed to the body work than I realized. Glad I made the changes before getting too much further with paint. The cab is back on the frame as of today so I can start putting everything together and get back to a "running truck". The clear coat is currently sanded to 2000 and will get final polish after the major re-assembly is done.
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File Type: jpg pic100.jpg (1.44 MB, 94 views)
File Type: jpg pic101.jpg (1.37 MB, 91 views)
  #46  
Old 12-28-2016, 03:56 PM
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Here's where the remaining body parts are at. All the body work is done and almost ready for paint. Check out the mirror finish on the door; and that's primer, not paint! The "new guy" is good.
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File Type: jpg pic96.jpg (910.7 KB, 86 views)
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File Type: jpg pic98.jpg (691.2 KB, 84 views)
File Type: jpg pic99.jpg (369.4 KB, 89 views)
  #47  
Old 12-28-2016, 06:23 PM
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Nice.
Is the "new guy" yourself?

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Depleted, studded, airdog (which isn't currently hooked up), fass regulated return, airaide, 4 inch straight pipe with mbrp muffler(so on to go), glowchit pyro, fuel, boost, and trans temp. (Of course don't work lol) Hercules terra track A/T2 315/70/17.
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http://badges.fuelly.com/images/sig-us/778639.png
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Old 12-29-2016, 03:47 AM
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Thanks. No. I can do all the design, engineering and mechanics but I can't smooth body panels or spray paint.
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Old 12-29-2016, 09:43 AM
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It's a art, that's for sure.

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2003 F250 KR SCSB FX4
Depleted, studded, airdog (which isn't currently hooked up), fass regulated return, airaide, 4 inch straight pipe with mbrp muffler(so on to go), glowchit pyro, fuel, boost, and trans temp. (Of course don't work lol) Hercules terra track A/T2 315/70/17.
2013 Honda pilot Touring
http://badges.fuelly.com/images/sig-us/778639.png
http://badges.fuelly.com/images/sig-us/776628.png
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Old 01-04-2017, 05:18 PM
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Took advantage of the couple warm days we had this week and got more pieces painted. Only the hood and tailgate need paint now. Cold front is moving through starting tonight but we might get a couple more warm days next week to get the hood and tailgate done in.
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File Type: jpg pic102.jpg (542.0 KB, 81 views)
File Type: jpg pic103.jpg (552.4 KB, 77 views)
  #51  
Old 01-05-2017, 02:38 PM
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this is great... I totally get that body work thing. I just don't have enough patience and my youth injured elbow would not tolerate the paint on paint off sanding.
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Old 01-05-2017, 02:57 PM
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Looks good.

I like what you did with the front of the frame to make the bumper fit. I am going to have to convert to a newer style axle and then do that same chop off the front of the frame. The width of a superduty frame isn't the same so ill have to deal with that as well.
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Old 01-05-2017, 03:01 PM
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Will the interior have the 1978 Dash? or the 1996
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Old 01-05-2017, 06:18 PM
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The 78 dash will go back in. I'm going to try to "adapt" the 96 gauges to the 78 cluster to keep the retro look. I made an effort a while back but didn't get too far before other priorities took over. The goal is to keep the truck's classic look both inside and out.
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Old 01-06-2017, 04:38 AM
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So glad your keeping as much oem on the inside as possible!!
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Old 01-08-2017, 11:20 AM
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The dash adoption will undoubtedly be a challenge but so cool once it turns out
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Old 01-08-2017, 04:14 PM
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Keep up the great work. Looking good. Great choice keeping the oem dash.
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Old 01-11-2017, 04:23 PM
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Thanks for the words of encouragement. Still moving along. Bed sanded to 2500 grit and ready for polishing.
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Old 04-19-2017, 05:33 PM
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Making an effort this month to get back on this project. It's become very tight under the hood at this point but looking good. In the spirit of documenting specifically what I've done to merge the three trucks together here's some of the recent activity:

Steering column connected to the 05 steering box by using a 36 spline x 3/4 U-joint (Borgeson 113449) to a 3/4 double D rod (16 inches) to a 3/4 x 36 spline rag joint (Borgeson 053449) to the 05 steering box.

Extended the radiator fan shroud 2.75 inches to enclose the fan.

Connected the 96 power steering pump to the 05 hydroboost by using a 96 F-Superduty hose. I'm using the 05 steering box so the hose between the hydroboost and box is the standard 05 hose. I'm using a generic aftermarket power steering cooler mounted on the radiator support.

Used the complete 96 under hood wire harness and had to:
-Extend the wires for all the lighting on the drivers side of the truck
-Replace the side marker light sockets with the 78 marker light sockets
-The 96 has one extra side marker light, cut it out and tossed in trash
-Replaced the 96 headlight sockets with the 78 headlight sockets (all wire colors and stripes are the same for both years)
-The 96 turn signal sockets fit the 78 turn signal housings so no changes needed
-Used the 96 battery ground cables
-Made battery positive cables with military style battery terminals, copper lugs, 2/0 and 3/0 battery cable
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File Type: jpg pic108.JPG (1.81 MB, 80 views)
  #60  
Old 04-19-2017, 08:02 PM
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Nice!
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D3leted 6.0's are the best. D3lete them and replace with a Cummings.
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Old 05-05-2017, 03:58 AM
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Took the truck out for it's first test run. The VSS isn't hooked up yet so could only get to 2nd gear. Made a short video to share:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bzLz...ature=youtu.be
  #62  
Old 05-12-2017, 04:04 AM
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Making good progress with "re-wiring" the inside of the cab. Normally I would keep the original trucks wiring harness for lights, gauges, horns, wipers, etc but this 78 truck was missing most of it's wiring when I got it. Typically I just cut down the mid-90s harness to be a "stand alone" harness for operating the engine and transmission, but instead I'm using it to operate the entire truck. I'm finding it's surprisingly easy so far to move all the 78 controls onto the wiring from the 96 donor. Wire colors and stripes haven't changed much between the decades. So far I moved the key switch without much issue. I added an extra relay to carry the load of the heater circuit versus running that through the key switch. The 78 key switch is "lighter duty" than the 96 which is why I added the external relay circuit. I moved the turn signals off the 96 multi-function switch onto the 78 turn signal switch, moved the high beam selector off the multi-function switch onto the 78 floor switch and I moved the wiper motor and controller from the 96 to the 78. The 78's wiper motor was MIA so rather than source a replacement I just moved over the 96. The only modification was turning the arm on the motor 180 degrees so the motor would clear the heater ducts of the 78. The last piece of the wiper puzzle is to move the control wires onto the 78 switch. I haven't compared schematics for the two years yet to see if the delay functions match but I'm sure they'll be close enough. Right now I'm working on moving the heater controls from the 96 to the 78. Only difference here is in 78 the resistor pack was between the battery and the fan motor and in 96 the resistor pack is between the fan motor and ground.

This is the "core wiring" update. After this is complete I have to figure out what I'm going to do with the gauge clusters. The goal is to keep everything looking like the original 78 stuff as much as possible.
Attached Images
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File Type: jpg pic112.jpg (1.37 MB, 70 views)
  #63  
Old 05-12-2017, 10:10 AM
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cool, glad to see its still coming along.. carry on!
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Old 05-12-2017, 10:12 AM
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Have you looked into a custom gauge face for it. I'm sure you could get one printed to mimic the 78 gauges. It would be pretty cool but probably not cheap either.
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Old 05-27-2017, 03:46 PM
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I was finishing laying the sound deadening on the floor and firewall when I realized it was somewhat a pointless exercise if I didn't also cover the heater/AC box. The box fits into a HUGE gaping hole in the firewall and is just (most hollow) plastic. All the floor covering I could add wouldn't help much because that box would just resonate all the engine noise into the cab. I first covered the box with the same sound deadening I used on the floor and then came over that with a fiberglass/mylar matting. This should significantly reduce noise and heat from entering the cab.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg pic113.jpg (1.29 MB, 54 views)
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File Type: jpg pic115.jpg (1.08 MB, 53 views)
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File Type: jpg pic117.jpg (1.26 MB, 53 views)
  #66  
Old 06-19-2017, 04:40 AM
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Well the heater/AC box didn't fit like I expected. I "trial fit" everything a few months back and it seemed like it was good to go. Naturally after wrapping it up clean and tight in insulation is when I discover it doesn't fit

The problem is clearance around the valve cover. I had to cut a large section out around the fan and reconstruct it using sheet metal. The fit is still tighter than I would like but I have at least 3/8" clearance in there now.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg pic118.jpg (1.07 MB, 47 views)
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File Type: jpg pic122.jpg (1.27 MB, 44 views)
  #67  
Old 07-11-2017, 08:01 AM
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Inching along with this project still. Just finished the gauge cluster and wiper switch. I used the case of the original wiper switch and "grafted" the OBS switch to it and it works great. I did the same with the OBS gauge cluster and the 78 bezel. It was alot of plastic trimming of both the 78 bezel and the OBS gauge cluster but I'm pleased with the outcome. I also used the diesel indicator module to make a small insert where the P-R-N-D-2-1 went on the OBS cluster. I now have all the essential lights on the dash: left/right turn, high beam, battery, check engine and wait to start.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg pic123.jpg (1.07 MB, 52 views)
File Type: jpg pic124.jpg (1.31 MB, 64 views)
File Type: jpg pic125.jpg (1.27 MB, 55 views)
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File Type: jpg pic127.jpg (1.35 MB, 51 views)
  #68  
Old 07-11-2017, 08:03 AM
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Here's the finished installation.
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File Type: jpg pic128.jpg (918.3 KB, 71 views)
File Type: jpg pic129.jpg (1.03 MB, 76 views)
File Type: jpg pic130.jpg (1.16 MB, 76 views)
File Type: jpg pic131.jpg (1.20 MB, 78 views)
  #69  
Old 07-11-2017, 08:49 AM
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That looks pretty good.


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2003 F250 KR SCSB FX4
Depleted, studded, airdog (which isn't currently hooked up), fass regulated return, airaide, 4 inch straight pipe with mbrp muffler(so on to go), glowchit pyro, fuel, boost, and trans temp. (Of course don't work lol) Hercules terra track A/T2 315/70/17.
2013 Honda pilot Touring
http://badges.fuelly.com/images/sig-us/778639.png
http://badges.fuelly.com/images/sig-us/776628.png
  #70  
Old 07-11-2017, 08:51 AM
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I really do enjoy watch a build of this caliber unfold. Keep up the good work.
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  #71  
Old 07-11-2017, 03:50 PM
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That turned out very well; those old dash components can be so fragile. I really like the grafted WTS location. Does the digital odo display get a signal as well? Looking good!
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Old 07-11-2017, 05:51 PM
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Thanks guys. Yes, the odometer is completely functional. I swapped the 05 sensor in the rear axle with an OBS sensor and both speedo and odometer work normally. I'm finishing up the dash details now (wiring and vacuum lines) and then I'll get the floor cover down, bench seat back in and doors on. Should look like a complete truck at that point. Need to run the polisher over the cab before putting the bed back on (still sanded to 2500 grit).
  #73  
Old 05-01-2018, 11:16 AM
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That's so cool, great job!
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