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Old 10-22-2018, 06:58 AM
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Default Cold start problems

Hey guys, having some issues with my excursion. Last year it started. When it gets to 50 degrees or colder the truck has a really hard time starting. After plugging it in it will start. Iíve switched to 5w oil, new glow plugs, glow plug relay, valve cover harness and new hpop. The batteries have been checked and are good. 750 cold cranking amps.

This past weekend of course the temps dropped and truck wouldnít start. At this point Iíve debated on taking to a shop. But would rather not. Could the starter just be weak in the cold weather? Any help would be awesome.


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Old 10-22-2018, 08:54 AM
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Are you sure the glow plugs are really turning on? Did you check the relay is
really activating?
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Old 10-22-2018, 09:58 AM
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I may have missed it but could you explain better the "will not start" issue it self? As in, Does it turn over fast but doesn't crank, or turns over sluggish like weak battery's would, or doesn't turn over at all?
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Old 10-22-2018, 12:52 PM
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Alot of white smoke?

Injectors cackling?
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Old 10-26-2018, 06:18 AM
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If it does start there is some white smoke initially. The crank will start off strong then die down. The batteries arenít but 6 months old. Iím thinking the starter could be going or weak. Harder to start when itís cold. As far as the relay I havenít a clue how to test the excursion style relay. Itís an inclosed box. It is brand new though.


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Old 10-26-2018, 07:12 AM
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Glow plug control module. You'd have codes if there was an issue there.

You need cranking speed. Fix the battery issues, get a high torque starter, clean grounds at block and frame
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Old 10-26-2018, 03:19 PM
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I have that module in my 2000 CA 7.3. Have a voltage meter plugged into the lighter socket
or something, note the voltage with everything turned off. Turn the key on and if the
voltage drops about two volts you know that plugs are turned on. Now .. if all if them
are working is another thing.

Mine throws a code, but it is from the missing intake heater
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Old 10-26-2018, 04:11 PM
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Before spending a bunch of money, you need to do a simple thing. Compression test.
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Old 10-28-2018, 09:23 AM
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It doesnít have any blow by. Only smokes on initial cold start then nothing after.


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Old 11-12-2018, 01:57 PM
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Update. Low crank turned out to be bad starter. When I swapped with high output I found half the positive post was broke. Which completely broke off when removed it. Borrowing a scanner to check both opt and Icp to be sure. I have a feeling the injectors might be the issue.


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Old 11-12-2018, 01:59 PM
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As you can see positive post broke off at starter


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Old 11-21-2018, 04:08 PM
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Wondering if anyone has come across this before. Ended up taking the excursion to a local shop. Looks like once the pcm is grounded the glow plug module sends power to glow plugs to light. Otherwise the module isnt sending power to the plugs. Has anyone come across this? Could it be a bad pcm, possibly the chip? Which is just a ts with basic tunes.


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Old 01-02-2019, 11:00 AM
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Bump.
Still having issues starting in the cold. My windshield was leaking which I had replaced. Thought this might have something to do with it. I sent out the pcm to a place in Florida to have checked over. They said everything was fine with it. I then checked all circuits from pcm to Glow plug module thinking there might be a broken wire, was getting 8.6ohms from connector to connect and checked all grounds as well 8.6 ohms to ground from pcm connector to negative on battery. Trying to figure which direction to go next to resolve.
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Old 01-02-2019, 12:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Enslow View Post
Bump.
Still having issues starting in the cold. My windshield was leaking which I had replaced. Thought this might have something to do with it. I sent out the pcm to a place in Florida to have checked over. They said everything was fine with it. I then checked all circuits from pcm to Glow plug module thinking there might be a broken wire, was getting 8.6ohms from connector to connect and checked all grounds as well 8.6 ohms to ground from pcm connector to negative on battery. Trying to figure which direction to go next to resolve.
8.6 ohms is way too much for your wires. Should be under .5 typically.

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Old 01-05-2019, 07:43 AM
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So what could the issue be if Iím getting those readings on end to end, both from connector to connector and through wires, as well as to ground.


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Old 01-05-2019, 07:55 AM
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Could have a corroded connector inline somewhere, pinched wires, rodent damage, corroded wires, the list goes on. Look for inline connectors, like the one on the drivers valve cover, and go from there, both directions, to isolate which side your issue is on.

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Old 01-05-2019, 08:22 AM
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Thanks I might just remove the engine bay harness to make life easier for testing


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Old 01-05-2019, 08:29 AM
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This is where using a headlight works wonders I nstead of ohming out wires. Putting an actual load on each wire will tell you if the wire is at fault. Disconnect the harness at the VC, put one end to the hot side of an old sealed glass headlight, ground the light, then feed 12v at the opposite end of the wir harness. If light lights up bright, wires good and can carry a load. If dim, wire is bad.
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Old 01-05-2019, 01:24 PM
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Whs^ A wire will show good continuity with only 1 strand connected, due to the low voltage/amperage coming from your meter. But with it showing hi resistance, it should be fairly easy to find...

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Old 02-01-2020, 07:13 AM
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Update:
Of course winter has rolled around again. This go round we have a baby on the way so I havenít had time to work on the excursion. Ended up taking it to the dealership to do some recalls as welll. Turns out it was my chipped key that had failed not causing it to start when itís cold out.


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Old 06-29-2020, 08:43 AM
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Your injectors are worn. You have 2 choices, shim them for $100 or buy new/reman ones. I went through the exact same problem with my 2000 model with 235k. At around 200-250k+, the injectors wear past factory tolerances and have to be shimmed or replaced. Feebay has the shim kits and tools to do this. It sucks to do but is worth it in the end.

Before I shimmed my injectors, the truck was eating batteries due to long cranking times. I had to have them both replaced. My truck also would not start when it got below 50deg. At this temp and below, the oil gets thick and will not actuate the HEUI injectors due to their worn out (very close, .002 thousandths or below) tolerances.

Shimming and changing to Rotella T6 synthetic 5w/40 and using Archoil eliminated my starting issues. No more block heater was needed.

I have since replaced the injectors with reman hybrid FFD 205/80s single shots and couldn't be happier. Also, hybrids require less oil pressure to actuate than the factory split-shots.
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