detailed write up with pics on how to remove turbos cab on

just installed dustans turbos with the batmowheels installed for him this weekend and decided to do a write up on how to do it with the cab on. since apperantly there isnt one. ill puta parts list at end of the thread. i may not have gotten all the pics of everything you would wanna see but i got what i could, this is a pretty straightforward job but can be overwhelming and frustrating at times, so here goes..

after removing the air intake unbolt the oil feed lines which is 2 17mm banjo bolts on top the turbos and one 8mm hold down bolt on top the oil filter housing, it took some persuation to get the feed line out of the housing.

next remove the fuel lines from the top of the fuel cooler and the actuator arm. theres a 10mm nut that holds it on and it simply pops out, you can move the actuator manually if needed. then remove the 3 10 mm bolts holding the actuator down, then theres 2 13mm nuts and 2 13mm bolts that hold the cooler mounting bracket to top of the boost tube, i removed the 2 10mm bolts as well the first time i did it but then realized it wasnt nessecary, you can just leave the bracket mounted to the cooler, then remove 3 10mm bolts that mount the reservoir, 2 on the top and one on the side underneith

do not unhook any hoses from these 3 parts, just leave everything hooked up and set them off to the side out of the way like so

continued...

dont forget to unplug the wiring from the actuator btw, but next you will need to unbolt the "u" shaped boost tube. 3 13 mm nuts down on the side of the engine, one of which holds the dipstick tube, and 2 10 mm nuts on top, one on each side that mount the the valve cover studs. this pic is of the 3 on the lower side


heres the pic of the one on the back side which also mounts the back pressure sensor tube



heres a bad view of the one in the front, its to the lower right of the boot



once you have that all unbolted you may need to use something to pry it off but it wont take much. yank it out pull the other small straight tube out of there too, its like an extenstion tube i call it





i dont have a pic of this but you will need to unbold the compressor housing, theres a big band clamp that holds it on there. just loosen that clamp up enough and it will pull straight off, and unclamp it at the boot.
ok this is where it starts getting tricky with the up pipe removal and egr pipe removal. the egr pipe isnt so bad, however you wont really be able to pull it out you just have it unbolted to move around and give you more room. heres a pic directly above the turbo looking back at the flange that will have to be unbolted. i used a 10 mm ratchet wrench for the one in the front and a 3/8 drive ratchet and a 6 in extension with a shallow 10mm working from beside the downpipe to get the one in the back. theres also 2 10mm bolts that told it to a bracket mounted to the uppipe housing.



this pic kinda shows the lower flange on the egr cooler pipe that needs to be unbolted, i got the top one from up top and the bottom one from the bottom.



now would be a good time to unbolt the downpipe as well.. dont have any pics of that. pretty self explanatory there..
next you will need to go underneith and unbolt the manifold up pipe, its 3 13mm nuts the top one is kinda hard to get to. again no pics of that either.. sorry.
now its time to start workin on the hard part, the up pipe bolts, i got the 2 on the top and the 2 on the outside with a ratchet wrench. they are relatively easy to get. the 2 on the bottom in the middle between the 2 pipes are a b****. theres prob several different combinations of tools and what not to do this. but i found it best to use a 1/4 inch drive ratchet with a shallow 10mm 6 pt socket and go under the drivers side pipe, which will have to come off first, to get the bolt off to that pipe. i had use a prybar under the pipe and push down on the ratchet to get it loose... heres a pic of the drivers side up pipe off



at this time you will need to kinda jockey pipes around and try and find the best position for them to be in to give you the most room to get to the other remaining bolt. i just shoved the one up pipe and the egr pipe back towards the firewall and i got enough room in there to get a 1/4in drive in there again and crack it loose. if you got a 1/4 in breaker bar u got it made i just put a deepwell socket with and extention over the handle of the ratchet to give me more leverage

continued again..

now its time to remove the hold down bridges as i call em.they look like this

just a 15mm bolt goin through the center and holds them turbos down. the front one isnt bad the one in the back you gotta get by feel. you cant see it. heres a pic of the where the one in the front was.

you can go in from the front under the compressor housing to get it out. the one in the back you will just gotta kinda play around with till you get it. its hard to discribe how to do it. what might be comfortable for me might not be for someone else. i will say workin on this truck has put me in some of the most awkward positions ive ever been in lol, but anyways.. heres a few pics


after that your pretty much ready to try and wiggle that thing up out of there. it only will really come out one way. first youll have to lift it straight up off the pins, tilt back a lil bit move towards the drivers side while raising that side and moving up and out dropping the one end, something like that... you get the idea youll figure it out.. it will come out. but only after the right combination of cuss words for several minutes will it finally give in . this is what it will look like in there removed.. both drain seals in the pic will need replaced. drivers side is just an o ring. the pass side is a special seal. be very careful not to b**** it up when you set the turbo back down in. i made that mistake. you cant really see it either, just use your best judgement pretty much.



only replacement parts i used where 2 upper up pipe gaskets and one at the manifold(which i believe are the same) and 2 egr pipe gaskets, downpipe seal. both turbo drain seals, oil feed line o ring. and i used new bolts for the up pipe and neversiezed everything when i put it back together. thats pretty much it. just reverse the process to put it back together. if anyone has any questions feel free to send me a pm ill help ya any way i can. have fun

sticky for sure man, great write up

your welcome dustan. i dropped it off for you a lil while ago. try er out and let me know what you think of the batmowheel. i think it runs pretty good myself. thanks to everyone who appreciates this write up, it took me a while to post all this lol. btw i am for hire if anyone in the area needs any work done

wow nice writeup thanks !!!!!

im sure the powers that be will sticky this.

Im going to let it float for awhile and then its going to the library


Thanks for the write up you guys are awesome

Sent from my DROIDX

Awesome write up!

Great write up. Wish you did it two days earlier :doh: Only thing I can say is on my truck. There was no chance at using a 1/4 drive ratchet on the two bottom up pipe bolts. At least not with the socket on the bolt straight and I did not want to chance stripping it. This tool made it very easy http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?item_ID=5054&group_ID=549

i had the snap on socket to use if i needed it, never used it once. didnt seem to work for me. a 1/4 in went on straight in my case where the 3/8 wouldnt. not sure what the difference would have been between the 2 trucks, either way its jus a matter of being comfortable doing it whichever way u choose. what works for one may not work for another

I know this thread is kind of old, but I can now put my 2 cents in and say that pulling the turbos cab on is NOT fun. I tackled it for the first time last week and did a few things differently than you but it was pretty much the same. I imagine it would have been a little bit better if the egr pipe was not on this truck. But it was and I just flopped it around.

The bottom two up pipe to turbo bolts were not fun getting off and so NOT fun going back in! You really have to feel for the bolts if you leave the 3 manifold to up pipe nuts tightened on each side like I did, but I got everything from the top.

I had to fix a fuel leak on the truck that I was working on and opted to leave the cab on for the experience and because I have read a lot about people doing it this way. So I thought why the hell not? I am sure I could figure out more tricks to do it faster if I had to do it again. But its no fun the first time!

Dzchey21 said:

Im going to let it float for awhile and then its going to the library


Thanks for the write up you guys are awesome

Sent from my DROIDX

Click to expand...

Can we get this to the library before its lost forever? lol

Dustball8504 said:

Can we get this to the library before its lost forever? lol

Click to expand...

Done thanks for the reminder