HELP! Died while driving, crank no start

[lincolnlocker]

What are the disadvantages to the ccv mod? I was going to make one that keeps it a sealed system, it just puts an intermediate catch can in line and then has a return line back into the intake

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

that might be ok but may cause restrictions and if the turbo can't suck it through then it will pressure up and start pushing oil out the turbo so if your turbo is slightly bad now then it will destroy it..

just keep the oil topped off.. what oil are you running?

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass

 

[cpadolf3]

that might be ok but may cause restrictions and if the turbo can't suck it through then it will pressure up and start pushing oil out the turbo so if your turbo is slightly bad now then it will destroy it..

just keep the oil topped off.. what oil are you running?

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass

I'm running Rotella T5 synthetic blend. With as fast as its burning it, I can't justify 30 bucks a gallon for full synthetic

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

 

[lincolnlocker]

I'm running Rotella T5 synthetic blend. With as fast as its burning it, I can't justify 30 bucks a gallon for full synthetic

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

***in eeewww.. rotella is the ****tiest oil for a 7.3 regardless of syn or semi syn or dino...

get the chevron delo 400le 15w40 in it.. after a couple oil changes, you might cut back to only a quart or 2 being used vs the 5.5

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass

 

[cpadolf3]

***in eeewww.. rotella is the ****tiest oil for a 7.3 regardless of syn or semi syn or dino...

get the chevron delo 400le 15w40 in it.. after a couple oil changes, you might cut back to only a quart or 2 being used vs the 5.5

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass

I'll look for it next time I'm at the parts store. Is it just a viscosity difference or an actual structure difference in the formula?

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

 

[lincolnlocker]

I'll look for it next time I'm at the parts store. Is it just a viscosity difference or an actual structure difference in the formula?

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

base oils are suposedly close to the same but the chevron has a different additive package, not mutch different but enough to make a difference.. doesn't shear(thins out) as fast and holds better icp throughout the oci.. its usually only 12 bucks at walmart.. id change it every 2500 miles for the first couple oci just to get the rotella out of it..

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass

 

[cpadolf3]

base oils are suposedly close to the same but the chevron has a different additive package, not mutch different but enough to make a difference.. doesn't shear(thins out) as fast and holds better icp throughout the oci.. its usually only 12 bucks at walmart.. id change it every 2500 miles for the first couple oci just to get the rotella out of it..

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass

Dang. 12 bucks? That ain't too bad. I'll take a look. Thanks!

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

 

[01pwrstkr]

When I start it, it billows white/blue smoke for 5 minutes minimum, or until I Rev it a couple times. It also leaves a trail until it's warmed up. Usually if I stomp on it and get some unburnt fuel coming out as black smoke, it clears it out and the blue smoke stops. However, if I let it idle for 5-10 minutes while hot (like if I'm fueling up) then as soon as I go to leave there's a very big blue haze out the back

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

That sounds like turbo seal to me. Oil getting past while idling then when you put it under load and get the egts up it starts burning it out

Sent from my SM-N920R4 using Tapatalk

 

[01pwrstkr]

I'm running Rotella T5 synthetic blend. With as fast as its burning it, I can't justify 30 bucks a gallon for full synthetic

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

Whs!!! My 7.3 wouldn't hardly idle with Rotella in it! I started running Mobil Delvac or Chevron Delo

***in eeewww.. rotella is the ****tiest oil for a 7.3 regardless of syn or semi syn or dino...

get the chevron delo 400le 15w40 in it.. after a couple oil changes, you might cut back to only a quart or 2 being used vs the 5.5

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass

Sent from my SM-N920R4 using Tapatalk

 

[lincolnlocker]

Whs!!! My 7.3 wouldn't hardly idle with Rotella in it! I started running Mobil Delvac or Chevron Delo



Sent from my SM-N920R4 using Tapatalk

mobil delvac is chit too.. a little better then rochitta but not much.

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass

 

[cpadolf3]

That sounds like turbo seal to me. Oil getting past while idling then when you put it under load and get the egts up it starts burning it out

Sent from my SM-N920R4 using Tapatalk

Do injector o rings not usually leak while it's running?

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

 

[dsberman94]

Do injector o rings not usually leak while it's running?

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

You end up with oil in your fuel filter usually. Another way to test them is applying shop air and listening for gurgles from inside the heads. It usually won't burn oil like you're saying with bad rings.

 

[01pwrstkr]

mobil delvac is chit too.. a little better then rochitta but not much.

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass

I never had a issue with it. Just Rotella

Do injector o rings not usually leak while it's running?

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

Yeah but it sounds just like what my truck was doing when my ccv got a kink in the hose. It started blowing blueish white smoke after sitting at idle for any amount of time. It was building pressure and pushing oil past the turbo seal.

Sent from my SM-N920R4 using Tapatalk

 

[cpadolf3]

You end up with oil in your fuel filter usually. Another way to test them is applying shop air and listening for gurgles from inside the heads. It usually won't burn oil like you're saying with bad rings.

Fuel filter was very clean and so was the fuel. Where do I apply the shop air?

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

 

[lincolnlocker]

I never had a issue with it. Just Rotella

Yeah but it sounds just like what my truck was doing when my ccv got a kink in the hose. It started blowing blueish white smoke after sitting at idle for any amount of time. It was building pressure and pushing oil past the turbo seal.

Sent from my SM-N920R4 using Tapatalk

exactly.. gotta keep it restriction free or that is what happens.

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass

 

[dsberman94]

Fuel filter was very clean and so was the fuel. Where do I apply the shop air?

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

Easier test, let it idle for 10-15 minutes or so and pop the down pipe off the turbo. Feel inside with a couple fingers. Is it dry soot or oily?

Applying shop air involves buying the fittings and your oil rails and injectors will be empty again. You'll have to reprime everything again.

 

[mandkole]

Usually the top oil ring goes bad. To check without gauge or hand pump, pop the VCs, cut power to the injectors and crank the motor for short bursts. This deadheads the oil rails and runs the pump. Bad orings will be seen with oil bubbling around the top of the cup and around the injector. If it's coming out the spout, there's bad poppet seal and the injectors need rebuilding.

You can only go so far without diagnostic tools but this could give hints with some time spent.

 

[cpadolf3]

Usually the top oil ring goes bad. To check without gauge or hand pump, pop the VCs, cut power to the injectors and crank the motor for short bursts. This deadheads the oil rails and runs the pump. Bad orings will be seen with oil bubbling around the top of the cup and around the injector. If it's coming out the spout, there's bad poppet seal and the injectors need rebuilding.

You can only go so far without diagnostic tools but this could give hints with some time spent.

Would the proper electronic diagnostic tool tell me what exactly it needed? I'd just assume not have to tear it apart again until I have parts to change it at the same time

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

 

[Arisley]

If you really want a good diagnostic tool, this one will do what the ones costing thousands do. Loads on a laptop.

https://www.strictlydiesel.com/p-2745-autoenginuity-total-ford-bundle.aspx

 

[lincolnlocker]

Usually the top oil ring goes bad. To check without gauge or hand pump, pop the VCs, cut power to the injectors and crank the motor for short bursts. This deadheads the oil rails and runs the pump. Bad orings will be seen with oil bubbling around the top of the cup and around the injector. If it's coming out the spout, there's bad poppet seal and the injectors need rebuilding.

You can only go so far without diagnostic tools but this could give hints with some time spent.

holy chit! really? I never heard of that till now! nice to know!

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass

 

[dsberman94]

That's possible but it wouldn't cause him to loose oil from the engine. If it were that o ring it would just drain back to the pan through the head.

I'm still betting on turbo seal.