Recent content by John.

The cases are completely different to bolt to the gas engines. The clutch counts are lower in a gas. Gas fwd 3 diesel 5, direct g 4 d 5, intermediate l/r and o/d are the same at 5, 5, and 7. Don't know if the drums have snap ring grooves in the drums are cut at different heights or the reaction...

A yoke can be bolted to any of the 4x4 models, the output shaft is tapped for a retaining bolt. You would also need to buy the rear mounts that bolt onto the lower rear of the case since the transfer case has the rear mount built in along with a driveshaft with a slip yoke. If you want the...

It's never good to put silicone sealant on something like that especially post filter, if a piece comes loose it can plug up an oil passage. Use some blue loctite or just tighten it with a wrench.

It's fine. That's not a roller type sprag, its got about 25 spring loaded pawls clicking, going to make some noise.

It's the Sprag in the rear planetary assembly.

I was mistaken the alldatadiy.com subscription is only 19.95 a year, again highly recommend, the same info the ford dealer uses. I used it to get all of the specs for my engine. If you're doing studs and aftermarket rods they're going to have different specs anyways.

It's got absolutely everything on the vehicle, it can be difficult to navigate.

Alldatadiy.com it's $29 for a year. They are ford factory procedures. If you just want certain specs let me know.

You can crank it over with a ratchet from the balancer bolts, if it locks up hold pressure against the ratchet and you'll feel the fluid go past the rings. Be sure to crank it over by hand until you're confident it won't hydro lock. If it's sat for a day or two there's a good chance it's leaked...

Absolutely not

The factory pump is tapered and has a timing pin. Like I said in my previous post the mark on the end of the shaft probably lines up with the keyway in the gear, the taper will hold all of the load.

First thing, call the place you bought it from and ask. I would assume the dimple on the end of the shaft should line up with the keyway. It will run in any position out of time, but will have gear chatter at idle. Best thing to do is my first suggestion.

No problem, you're welcome. Only other tips is clean the old silicone off where the front cover meets the block with a razor blade, clean and dry with brake cleaner, add a generous amount of the Ford grey silicone at each point where the front and rear covers meet, new pan oring of course.

The upper pan has an oring groove, you'll have to pull the pan off before pulling the rear cover.

Oil pan will need to come off, there are bolts inside the pan.