Recent content by Walt_M

Clean the tab with acetone (nail polish remover from dollar store) then reapply glue. Works on my knives to clean finger prints and sanding oil prior to assembly and or etch. Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

Truck an car motor differences were the oil pans either a rear sump or a deeper pan. Should be the same engine internals. C was 60s D was 70s E should be 80s F is 90s. It looks like is F1 or F7 Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

289,302,351W,351C all share the small block bell housing. A light coat of flat should tone it down and take the gloss away. Test on a small spot on the bottom of the panel or the inside to see for sure.

True, w/o a flexplate,intake or valve covers is essentially a boat anchor.

71 long block= a non smog motor so is factory better than what you have. That sux that your having to essentially rebuild it. But then again, YOU KNOW whats in it and how it went together.

Ghaaaaaa smog motor!!!! Check with the ghetto looking wrecking yards they usually have the old 60s an early 70s heads on a shelf. Or check jegs an summit for a new set of better flowing heads.

If it is the factory stock motor for it, the castings on the block and heads should be a D7 or a D6. If its aD0,1,2 or a C block your better off because those are a higher nickel content block and are stronger. If the castings on the heads are D0,1, or D2 they are the better flowing heads due to...

I know this is a 6 yr old thread but what was the results of the ALH swap? I am about to wmbark on the same in my SJ410