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I have the same issue with the spring leaf that holds the rear door open on the crew cab. There are replacements for the front door hinges. Not the same design as rear though.

For everyone’s future reference the 42 pin ECM connector does not need a pin removal tool. There are wedge blocks that are removed. I had mine apart to “organize” the wires, pull out unused wires and heat shrink a few. Easiest connector on the truck.

Just thought of another thing. I have never been successful sleeving a cylinder without boring the rest. The press fit of the sleeve pushes the adjacent cylinder(s) out of round. Beyond what can be corrected by honing. So if you have to sleeve a cylinder the process is to fit the new sleeve...

Not saying you should or should not re ring as opposed to bore it. Just giving the tools to know it’s right rather than guess, hope or rely on internet experts. None of us giving advice can see every critical surface. You have to check them all. 10 years of building engines and 30 years of...

On the cam bearings, they are brass not Babbitt so more than likely they are not worn. Measure them. I see more installation screwups than worn cam bearings. On the cam the mark you were worried about on the journal is corrosion from moisture in the oil passage. If the lobes show no fretting or...

Wrist pin bushings in the rods should be checked at least visually and by feel. Original clearance is less than one thousandth .001 .Feel wise this means unless the oil has been washed out you should not “feel” clearance. You should only be able to see the oil film move but not any play.

Next is the piston ring grooves. Top rings are keystone (tapered) design and have steel ring grooves in the piston. Still good practice to clean ring grooves good and look for step wear on the bottom side of the groove. Look at old rings for step wear on the side. Check #2 ring grooves too. Oil...

Next thing I would consider is piston to cyl clearance. A little is worn from the cyls, a little is honed and the pistons are worn a little. Worthwhile to measure because if you are past the limit piston rock from loose clearance will cause the rings to “flutter” and pass oil. Turbocharged...

There is a spec for surface finish put out by the engine or ring manufacturer. It is usually in RMS. Flex Hone’s website will tell you how to get that finish without guessing.

I totally get the point of saving the cost of boring and pistons. Over the years I have assembled some engines with less than ideal cylinders. Most did ok, a few didn’t. Here are a few things I’d think about: If none of the “pits” were deep enough to catch a pick in, they were just stains and...

I’m planning on getting those clear lense headlights and putting Morimoto LED projectors in them. Gotta have airbags on the back to keep it level so I don’t blind folks. Like you I have about 30k into the truck and took more stuff apart last time I worked on it lol

Don’t waste a lot of time with that D66 turbo. At the time that came out there wasn’t a lot available so we did what we could. It was reported to have the same exact problems you are reporting. Over and over folks were fighting high EGT. Time has moved on and the SXE Series and the KC drop in...

I was set to do that with Rick Auto pump just to get the pulley until I stumbled on 2 new pulleys. Good to know which SD pump and about the reservoir. I have a lot of stuff over in that corner already so not sure how it will fit for me. Any chance you could post a pic of the reservoir set up...

I had a cracked front cover that leaked in that area. Clean it really well and check the area where the bullet shaped area that is the boss for the bolt that holds the oil cooler end housing. Seemed to leak more cold than hot.

I’m looking for the 7.3 van power steering pump bracket if anyone has a spare or a line on one.

I would call Lee’s and talk with them. Just being an 8 rib pulley won’t do it, it has to have the right offset too. The 7.3 van pulley is scarce. I have 2, I can get dimensions if needed. I know the 6.0 pump will work but the pulley from the 6.0 won’t.

If your coolant temps stabilize under heavy load at 230* you are ok. Have you tried the 6.0 fan? It helps. Also remember the thermostat BEGINS to open at the rated temp.

Your old clutch or flywheel had run out or imbalance. I’ve seen this cause broken trans cases and many other odd broken things such as mounting brackets.

There are a couple of ways. On he end of the leafs or on the riveted on wrapper band the is a code like 4AC3. There is a chart out there to covert this to the weight rating and door tag code (X,V etc) the other is to accurately measure the thickness of each leaf at the center. Aftermarket spring...

Just have the part # and engineering # on my EBay search with email alert. Now on to a reasonably priced bracket lol.