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Im sure I could get money for it but I just want it gone. Figured free would go faster. Plus I know many people on here have shop and maybe waste oil heaters or just to run in your truck if so desired. Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2

I have 55 gallons of clean waste motor oil. It does have some ATF but mostly oil. I'm offering it for FREE, just come get it. I live near Cleveland Hopkins airport. PM me for details. Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2

Also I have 1.7 roller rockers for $90 that were planned for this motor. Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2

Got a good running 302. I took it from a 1990 mustang with 10,000 on motor. It was rebuilt by jasper. I took motor and ported heads and put a high torque roller cam in. Has mustang long tubes that come with it. $400 obo. Near Cleveland,OH Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2

So then don't give it back:poke: At least you found it to be something easy and stupid. Those are my favorite kind of fixes.

Call your chip tuner. Could be a bad tune, bad chip or any of the above. I didn't even think of that since we were talking of a trans issue:doh: Hopefully it's just a tuning issue and nothing more.

It wouldn't hurt to try what ever causes the issue. Yeah if the main connector is unplugged the electrical signal is removed from the lockup solenoid, which causes the fluid that locks up the converter to be exhausted to the pan.

On that note I would pull the electrical connection and try it. It will hopefully point you in a direction. Hope that helps

Does it stay locked in reverse or drive at idle during a stop? My truck did that to me once and it turned out I had a bad main electrical connector at the trans and it let moisture in. The ground for the lockup solenoid found the main ground and was constantly locked. However this could be an...

Sorry this has taken me this long, as I greatly appreciate the help. I measured AC volts and came up with .1 volts. Took the alternator out of the loop and it's still has electrical noise. UVCH are all new, gaskets are new, and external harness plugs are new. So now where do I look?

I will try this when I get home. I have listened every day from home to work and back. Now it's mocking me and I can't get it to reproduce the issue. But then again I like when chit fixes itself!!

I tried to troubleshoot but it didn't want to create the issue, then I got called into work. I will try again in the morning.:drool:

I will check the uvch for anything obvious today along with proper shielding. Can some point me in the right direction to checking alternator diodes? I do appreciate the help from every one so far. I will also look at ALL the grounds for a good solid connection. I'm gonna go have fun and I will...

I knew I shouldn't have been cheap and bought the R rated plugs:poke: I only get the electrical noise with it running. I turned the key to run with the fuel pump running, blower motor and headlights all on and no static on the radio. Start the engine and it's back. Yes it does change with rpm...

Besides my laundry list of brakes and squeaky poly bushings... I would like to troubleshoot my electrical issue this weekend and need help. I think it's correlated to how the engine runs rough one time and smooth the next. I discovered that something in my electrical system is noisy when I put a...

Good god I need to slow down or lifes gonna pass me up... Thanks for all the welcomes!!:joy: I try and hangout here from time to time but I work to dam much. To answer a couple questions I live near Cleveland

I'm a PSN transfer a week ago. I have been to damn busy lately, so sorry for not introducing myself sooner. I was referred to PSN a year ago by DZLJIM and now I was told to check out this site. So far I like it better over here. Hopefully I will see ya'll around here. Thanks, JETFXR