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I went through 3 v1 Mishimotos. OEM radiator back in now, have 10,000 miles and almost a year and a half on it. Solid aluminum is just not a good option for these trucks unless you drive on 100% smooth pavement 100% of the time.

Can try swapping solenoids but most likely the trans is done.

My 08 has a button on the dash

Doesn't hurt anything to pop them in and see what it looks like. I'm sure if you dig hard enough you can find a Ford/International spec on line boring, if you would need to go that route. There has to be some allowance in the location of the crank and cam, not all of these blocks are going to...

You'll have 2-3x the money, time, and problems in it as you would with just putting a 6.4 back in. I don't see any real benefits to it either, other than just to say you did it.

No throttle body on a diesel. Just don't chop the throttle after you're really into it and it'll be fine. If you hear the turbo barking, that's pretty rough on it.

Why are you replacing the lines if you aren't pulling the injectors? You can leave the injectors in, maybe just loosen the hold down bolt so they can wiggle a bit. Probably wouldn't hurt to change the crush seal and o-ring on them if you're replacing the lines though. Torque is the same for...

No issues with No Limit and snow here. Top of the fence is 51"

PM me your email and I'll try and get it to you tomorrow

Oh, didn't know that. This was over a year ago. I can send you the tune files, you'll just need an MCC unlock code.

I just run the canned H&S single tune. It's a free download on their site, you just need to purchase the MCC unlock code. It's runs good, the shift points are a little high for my liking but it's not a deal breaker.

Yeah, absolutely no need to do anything with the cab unless something goes really sideways with the up pipe bolts.

No idea on cost, I did mine myself. The worst part will be the up pipe bolts in the factory turbos if they haven't been out for a while. Other than that it's pretty simple.

The H&S single kit with their turbo is very close to stock drivability, obviously there is a bit more lag since you're going to a single from compounds but it's not a huge change. It makes a ton of power on stock fuel and sounds great. I never calculated mileage consistently before or after the...

Just what I've been waiting for - where do I order just the elbow?

I had my AC vac'd down and refilled at a buddy's shop after putting the motor back in and even since then my AC has been ice cold. It will freeze you out of the truck. It was never like that before.

That line runs down behind the alternator bracket, it would be a pain to change out. I just replaced mine with a rubber line and ran it from the can to the bed plate.

That is part of the seal and stem height is measured without it.

Probably bedplate. I just sealed mine back up 7,500 miles ago when I did the motor, used grey RTV on the seals and everything. It still leaks. It isn't bad, just enough to constantly be wet around the pan. I never see any drips.

The problem with measuring valve stem height above the head to find that out is that it won't tell you. You don't know the thickness of the head or valve seat depth to know where the other end is. Switch the rockers around to see if the problem moves, I'm willing to bet that it doesn't. I'd be...