2006 6.0 block trouble

Hartwig

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Good day gentlemen,

I have here a 2006 6.0 engine that I am currently working on. Mileage original 66K. The engine was driven with defective EGR cooler over 500mls with pure water, then a few days off and driven again and again briefly until it no longer started (engine no longer turned over because rings were rusted inside).

I ordered a pallet of material which finally arrived in Germany after 3 months.

Since the cylinder bores were surprisingly dimensionally correct, I decided to use the first oversize (+0.010in piston).

The block is now on the machine, block deck to main bearing journal is parallel. I took 0.11mm/0.043in off the first block deck until it was clean.

I ran the dial indicator down along the holes (also 90° off) and noticed that the block is drilled at an angle from the factory.

Has anyone experienced this?

The block was obviously drilled with a double spindle boring mill (sry, unfortunately I don't know the exact name in english), as there are always 2 bores that match each other per cylinder bank.

Does anyone know how the blocks were machined in 2006? My guess is that the block decking was done on one machine and the cylinder drilling was done on another machine. Is this possible? This is the only way I can explain the angular deviation of the cylinder bores to the block deck.



43841391sx.jpg




43841395dt.jpg




43841397ko.jpg




If I order +0.030in oversize pistons I would have to get the bores drilled professionally at right 90° angles to block deck / crank journal.

I measured the piston protrusion before machining and wondered why I was getting different readings on each piston side (measured at the 9.00 and 3.00 o-clock position on each piston).

On cylinder 4, I measured a value of 0.75mm/0.0295in piston protrusion.

I have now taken off 0.11mm/0.0043in from the block deck. This means that theoretically I now have a piston protrusion of 0.86mm/0.0338 at this point.

Would you order in my situation the +0.030in pistons in shortened version order or assemble with original piston height?


43841398cd.jpg




have these heads here:





meassured valve recession of these new heads:


43841503no.jpg
 

DEEZUZ

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You and @TooManyToys would get along just fine. I'm sure you've met on other forums/youtube.

He does not frequent here unfortunately
 
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DEEZUZ

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Are you saying that after you decked the surface your thrust side of the piston is sticking outside of the block deck?
 

Hartwig

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no. The block was aligned in both planes before machining on the machine. The block deck is parallel to the crank journal, which I also measured.
I then used the dial indicator to move each hole down towards the crank journal before machining and noticed that the holes were at an angle, as exaggerated in this picture.

43844286sr.jpg



for the first block deck I had to take off 0.11mm / 0.0043in until the surface was clean. Here on these pictures you can see slight shadows from the old surface.

43844302xr.jpg


43844303rh.jpg
 

TooManyToys

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You and @TooManyToys would get along just fine. I'm sure you've met on other forums/youtube.

He does not frequent here unfortunately


Hartwig and I share two other forums, and we've discussed this. The hope of coming here is this forum has the most experienced 6.0L engine builders and machinists.

I visit here once a week but usually to see what's happening.

It looks like INT was using a twin spindle boring machine, and the setup was not right on this block. Looking over other engine examples where piston protrusion was taken showed both sides, not just the average; this is not normal. One member of the org knew a maintenance mechanic that worked the line at INT. He said the 7.3L block line was more robust, but the new equipment for the 6.0L engines was not as good. But I'd chalk it up to operator error, but I'm surprised QC did not check the squareness of the bores. This one should not have gone through.

Hartwig also found some excess wrist pin bushing clearance of this low mileage block, which we know would happen from this situation. It's not bad, though.

Relevant videos from a Detroit Diesel operator, just for comparison.






If you are interested in seeing what a modern automotive line looks like today, this BMW video is a good one. It shows many processes, including cracking rods, installing crank tone rings, etc. Then, at 28:10, it briefly shows the multiple spindles, head bolt tightening where all bolts are tensioned simultaneously.


 
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Hartwig

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good day gentlemen, the block is bored to 0.030" oversize and the decks machined....(honing follows when I get the destroked pistons from FICMrepair...)
My problem: where do I get the bushings for the piston pin at the top of the connecting rod? They do seem not to be available as a spare part. Asheville Engines does not sell any (they wrote so).
Answer from AutoNation Ford White Bear Lake: "you can only get those when buying the pistons"

 

TooManyToys

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I think ANWB was thinking of wrist pins, not the bushings. But Ford would not be selling the bushings, they would be part of the rod assemblies. International might sell the bushings by themselves.
 

Hartwig

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Found them.


They would need to be taper ground (in the rod) and then honed to size.
Thanks Jack. I had also found such.
Obviously, however, the finished bushings already existed with beveled sides. A special jig is needed to press them in, so I knew that.
Screenshot_20220628-185125_Email.jpg
 

Hartwig

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I have ordered these


additionally the bushings from the link of Jack (thanks for that Jack.)

I want to know which bushings Ford is using.

I will measure and weigh the connecting rods I ordered. Should be here in 3-4 weeks.

I don't order remanufactured parts if possible, but there was nothing else to find other than replacements for the connecting rods
 

Hartwig

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has anyone currently ordered 6.0 connecting rods? If so, what piston pin bushings are installed there? It seems like only rolled bearings are available for the piston pin.
The original connecting rods have one piece bearing bushings installed, I would rather use those.
 

Hartwig

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XPD canceled my order for the piston pin bearings because the phone number was not correct.
On their order form for the billing address you can't enter a German phone number, so I entered the one from my forwarder in NH, the shipping address to my forwarder was correct.
XPD makes no effort whatsoever to satisfy its customers.
I am very annoyed and will not buy anything more there.

I now have to see if I can get the bushings somewhere else.
 

webb06

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XPD canceled my order for the piston pin bearings because the phone number was not correct.
On their order form for the billing address you can't enter a German phone number, so I entered the one from my forwarder in NH, the shipping address to my forwarder was correct.
XPD makes no effort whatsoever to satisfy its customers.
I am very annoyed and will not buy anything more there.

I now have to see if I can get the bushings somewhere else.

I know Anthony at super duty service in kc replaces rod bushings in 6.0’s. Look through his YouTube videos and you’ll see him talking about them. He had a special tool made to be able to remove and install them.


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TooManyToys

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Goodson makes a very expensive kit for doing these. However, they are pretty simple to make if you only work on a few engines—Goodson TB-kit for about $1,500.
 

Hartwig

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I had contacted Anthony via Facebook, obviously he currently has no homepage via which I could reach him. Unfortunately, he did not answer.
I will build the tool to change the bushings.
Liquid nitrogen is unfortunately very expensive and not easy to get.
Does anyone have a link to Anthony's video?
 
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