2006 F250 cranks, wont start.

apower47

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I have a 06 f250 that doesn't want to start! I've looked through a bunch of posts and threads on here and other forums, and finding a lot of the same issues but seems like no one ever posted what it turned out to be. I've got it diagnosed (possibly incorrectly), and I don't have the money to keep getting it diagnosed and switching random parts that "might be" it.



Here's a background:



Did an EGR ****** and changed the oil cooler about 2k miles ago due to rough idle/running and blue smoke out of the exhaust on startup and acceleration. Truck still runs rough and idles weird, so that might be an injector issue (not getting any codes other than EGR). I've been having long crank times before it would start, mainly when its cold. Sometimes it wouldn't start, but after waiting and cranking for some time, it would fire up. This would happen pretty rare, but got more frequent in the last month or so.



I was leaving my brothers house last week and when I pulled out onto the road and accelerated, the truck just shut off. No stuttering or spitting. Almost as if I just turned the key off. I'm running an Edge CTS and noticed that my ICP dropped to 60psi. I ended up cranking the sh** out of it over time and still got nothing. Got it towed to my house 20 miles (wasn't cheap). I got it towed to a shop on Monday to run some diagnostics since I scanned the truck and looked inside and tore the whole thing apart and couldn't find what could be the problem. I figured it was something with the HPOS, but didn't know how to test each part of it.



The shop charged me $380 and told me it was my IPR screen, STC fitting, and ICP. I towed the truck to my brothers shop since they wanted $1900 for labor and told me the intake manifold had to come off to get HPOP cover off (I have the ****** and the bolts were super easy to reach). I bought the STC kit from Ford and an ICP sensor/plug. I swapped all those parts, put the thing back together, and wen't to cranking. I know its going to take a while to get air out of system, especially since it was air tested.



I would crank for about 15-20 seconds, and let rest for 30+ seconds in between. After a couple minutes, my cranking noise got really weird and crank speed slowed down significantly. I thought it might be dead batteries, but even hooked up to a charger it was still slow crank and dash lights flickering. The engine started to smell burnt and turns out I ended up frying the starter. Around the same time, I started to get TBC faulty. I don't understand how the trailer brake would tie into the HPOS?



Anyways, I ended up buying a new starter and swapping that in and still getting the same results. Slow cranking, dash lights flashing, TBC Faulty, Edge CTS screen flashing white, etc... I charged the batteries for some time just to make sure that they were producing enough power and even cranked with the batteries hooked up. After the tuner started flashing, I decided I would try to turn the truck back to stock and disconnect the entire tuner to see if that would be helpful at all. The truck does crank quicker and sounds/feels like it should when cranking, but still getting my gauges to die out and all lights to flicker on dash after about 10-15 seconds of crank.



I called the shop that did diagnostic and they said it could be a faulty starter from the box or I can bring in the truck and they can diagnose again. I don't have the money to get it towed yet again, and for the shop to do another diagnostic (which may not even fix the issue again).



I don't mind doing the work myself and or testing any parts. I'm just not sure what I should test or where to begin looking for the issue. Ive done a lot of research and spent a headache amount of time. I use the truck for work and its been sitting over a week.



If anyone has experienced something similar or might have even the slightest clue that would be so awesome to hear it!! Im really lost with this and its been a PITA! When I ask other people with mechanic experience or any diesel experience, they'll usually reply with "its a Ford" or "buy a dodge"


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jpow95

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If it goes to 85 you have a weak hpop or a hpop leak in the system


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jpow95

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If had failed hpop that pass a air test


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apower47

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And what's the psi off the icp


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What should IPR be at? ICP starts at 22psi and sometimes reaches 40-45 psi after cranking for a bit. How could I find where it's leaking if they did a test and said it was STC but that's already been replaced...


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apower47

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If had failed hpop that pass a air test


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Is there a way to test if the HPOP is failed? Now that you say it, I do recall after the EGR ****** there was a weird pump noise after the fuel pump would stop pumping in "on position". Couldn't pin where it was coming from but went away after so many cranks. But same weird pump noise after doing STC/IPR screen work. Also I forgot to mention my IPR screen was torn and there was a piece of screen in the valve itself that I managed to get out


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sootie

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Sounds like either a bad hpop or the top blown out of an injector. Aka massive hpo leak

You need to get shop air hooked up to the hpo system and listen to where the leak is
 

johnp115

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Is there a way to test if the HPOP is failed? Now that you say it, I do recall after the EGR ****** there was a weird pump noise after the fuel pump would stop pumping in "on position". Couldn't pin where it was coming from but went away after so many cranks. But same weird pump noise after doing STC/IPR screen work. Also I forgot to mention my IPR screen was torn and there was a piece of screen in the valve itself that I managed to get out


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Yes watch icp while cranking on ids software and if it shows a saw tooth pattern then it is your hpop,

And is your icp actually 22-45 psi while cranking? These trucks need 500-600+ psi to start
 

johnp115

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Sounds like either a bad hpop or the top blown out of an injector. Aka massive hpo leak

You need to get shop air hooked up to the hpo system and listen to where the leak is

I agree, if he's only cranking at 22-45psi the high pressure oil system if practically non existent lol
 

apower47

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Yes watch icp while cranking on ids software and if it shows a saw tooth pattern then it is your hpop,



And is your icp actually 22-45 psi while cranking? These trucks need 500-600+ psi to start



Would a snap on scan tool work to monitor that?
Yes that's what it is while cranking. It starts at 22 psi and each 10-15 seconds I crank for rises about 10 psi and stops at 40. (Max I got it to was 48). At least according to my CTS. When I unplugged ICP and tried cranking, psi came up to 1350, but it was obviously unplugged....


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6.0 Tech

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Check base oil flow. Pull the filter, hold down the little check valve thats at about2 o clock in the bottom of the housing with a screw driver. Crank it over using the signal wire for the starter with the key off. It should fill to the bottom of the threads of the cap in about 10 sec or so.
 

apower47

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Thanks for the input everyone! I plan to do some testing tomorrow and hope to get it to start. I hope it's just needing a new pump and nothing else. I will keep you guys posted once I take a look into it!


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Thegetter

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Your original symptoms were very similar to what I experienced several weeks ago and it was a failing hpop.

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