5r110w slipping & neutralizing shifting from 3rd to 5th

Powermaker

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I have an 09 6.4 with about 68'000 miles. About 5k miles ago i got some KEM files. 150 tow, 250, 275, 310 and 345SS. The 250 had really rough shifting even after I did my trany relearn steps. Don't get me wrong I like it but i doubt a stock trany won't last long shifting like that. Back on topic. I went straight to the 345 after that and use it as my DD. I don't drive crazy, I've never had it over 85% throttle. So I was taking off from a stop light, about 25% throttle. It went to shift out of 3rd into 5th and felt like it neutralized and RPMS shot up real fast then it jerked real hard. No check engine light. Pulled over, shut it off for about 5 mins. Started it up. Accelerated real slow and it had a light slip from 3 to 5. I drove it for about a week. When it's getting ready to shift I let off the throttle and that almost eliminates it. So it slips worse the faster you take off, too fast and it will hard jerk and neutralize. There was once or twice that it hardly did it at all compared to how it was slipping. I Tried changing the tuning and that didn't help. Anybody had this problem before??? What do I do?? Now it is not wanting to go into overdrive all the time or shifting down from OD and stuck in that gear. I have a brand new 5r110 that was bought from ford for a 2006 6.0 about 3k miles. Can I switch the solenoids out? or the whole solenoid body from the 06 to the 09? That should fix the OD problem

a94e05d5205a3331d42641f47b8bb4d7.jpg

Here's the 2006 valve body

852f15d54aa02838bab943449f40e036.jpg

Here's the 2009



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sootie

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could either be a weak direct solenoid or smoked direct clutches. Is there any delay when going into reverse?
 

01pwrstkr

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Mine has done the same thing ever since I tun£d and delet£d it. Drives me crazy! I can't afford a built trans right now. I may try a new solenoid. It goes into reverse fine.

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timj

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I have what seems to be the exact problem. Anything over 3/4 throttle going from 3 to 5 shift it won't shift to 5th (aka 4th). It will free rev and because of the free rev it completely de-fuel for 1.5 seconds. Just like you shut the key off for 1.5 seconds. If I stay in it, after that 1.5 second period, (and scraping my face off the windshield) rpms come right back to life, shift to 4th lock, 5th/aka 6th o.d, 5th lock no problem. Anything under 3/4 throttle it doesn't act up. I built my own trans so I tore it back down. All clutches looked like new except directs had just a touch of wear and started getting hot so I put a new set of directs in. Checked the direct apply piston and swapped out the direct solenoid for another stock one from my spare trans. Tried various different tunes but no change. Just speculating but going to swap the whole valve body. If no change pull trans apart and swap the center support from my other trans. I hate to do it that way but it happens so fast and abruptly that it's hard to even watch trans pressures to see what's happening.
 

Powermaker

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could either be a weak direct solenoid or smoked direct clutches. Is there any delay when going into reverse?


I figured the direct solenoid is bad but not the reason for the slipping out of 3rd. A little while after the slipping first started I had to take a ride about 2 hours away. When I got it up to 80mph I noticed the trans temp climbing slowly. It got up to 198 then went back down after I set the speed at 65 it stayed around 170. Shortly after that I started having this new issue. My guess is that when I got it hot the fluid burnt up a bit and strained the DD solenoid. I noticed a slight delay in reverse after I had Overdrive problems. I park on a slight hill and back up it so I didn't really think twice till I did some reading on my symptoms. I still haven't found anyone with the 3-5 slip that has the same symptoms and found a solution.

Thanks guys for your input. I'll be replacing all solenoids tomorrow so I'll keep yall posted. Hopefully I didn't wear out my clutches to bad or my 06 5r is going in there while I build this one


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Powermaker

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I have what seems to be the exact problem. Anything over 3/4 throttle going from 3 to 5 shift it won't shift to 5th (aka 4th). It will free rev and because of the free rev it completely de-fuel for 1.5 seconds. Just like you shut the key off for 1.5 seconds. If I stay in it, after that 1.5 second period, (and scraping my face off the windshield) rpms come right back to life, shift to 4th lock, 5th/aka 6th o.d, 5th lock no problem. Anything under 3/4 throttle it doesn't act up. I built my own trans so I tore it back down. All clutches looked like new except directs had just a touch of wear and started getting hot so I put a new set of directs in. Checked the direct apply piston and swapped out the direct solenoid for another stock one from my spare trans. Tried various different tunes but no change. Just speculating but going to swap the whole valve body. If no change pull trans apart and swap the center support from my other trans. I hate to do it that way but it happens so fast and abruptly that it's hard to even watch trans pressures to see what's happening.


Let me know what your fix is. PM some pics if you can. I'm surprised none of that changed anything. Wat build kit and parts did you use?


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timj

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Suncoast iron Pac 3. Basically it's gpz clutches and kolene steels, standard generic seals and gaskets, molded pistons and suncoast pressure plates. Transgo kit that I just used some of the pieces in my trans. Aermet billet input, billet 5 pinion od planetart, billet low rev hub, billet intermediate. All that stuff is TCS. But everything I just mentioned l really has nothing to do what is wrong lol.
 

Bigboytoys

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What your experiencing is rev slam or flare and is an issue from the factory that gets exuberated with tuning.

There are a few options, some times over filling the trany 1 - 2 quarts fix's the issue, the other is you have junk in the solenoids and valve body and it just needs a cleaning but I would definitely think about trying another tuning company.
 

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